Cheap stainless stock pots
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- Steve Broady
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Cheap stainless stock pots
For anyone tempted to use those cheap stainless stock pots as either a boiler or storage vessel, pay attention to the handles. I’ve seen some that are welded on, but most are riveted. Those rivets are universally aluminum in my experience.
Here’s a look at some on a pot I was using for sous vide cooking. This is after 24 hours of exposure to water vapor. If you want to use the pot, and you want to keep the handles, you can get copper rivets pretty cheaply. This is on a small pot I’m using to build a gin/test still, so I soldered the rivets just to make sure they sealed properly. I’ll go in and clean everything up before I button the boiler up eventually.
Here’s a look at some on a pot I was using for sous vide cooking. This is after 24 hours of exposure to water vapor. If you want to use the pot, and you want to keep the handles, you can get copper rivets pretty cheaply. This is on a small pot I’m using to build a gin/test still, so I soldered the rivets just to make sure they sealed properly. I’ll go in and clean everything up before I button the boiler up eventually.
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- Buffalo
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Re: Cheap stainless stock pots
Did you remove the rivets and replace with some kind of copper bolt with the flats ground off or is it original with copper?
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- Steve Broady
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Re: Cheap stainless stock pots
I ground the original aluminum rivet heads off, then replaced then with copper rivets from Amazon. https://a.co/d/hQPMxpu
If the metal were a little thicker, and my fabrication skills a little better, I might have foregone the solder. But as it was, I wanted to be sure they were sealed up, and it was easy to do.
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Re: Cheap stainless stock pots
Funnily enough, I was expecting the same, and was planning to just remove the handles and solder a copper strap over to seal the holes as soon as I saw any reaction.
But both those that I've built with so far have no signs of corrosion at all?
But both those that I've built with so far have no signs of corrosion at all?
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- Steve Broady
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Re: Cheap stainless stock pots
Long before I saw signs of corrosion, I did a simple test to see what the rivets were made out of. I attempted to scratch them with a knife, and they were clearly far softer than stainless. I didn’t do any further tests, but made the decision then to replace any before they saw spirits. And after seeing the corrosion on the pot I was cooking in, I’m sorely tempted to do the same on that one, even though it’s almost exclusively used for sous vide these days.
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Re: Cheap stainless stock pots
You know what, now you say that, I'm gonna get some copper rivets.Steve Broady wrote: ↑Thu Oct 12, 2023 5:32 am Long before I saw signs of corrosion, I did a simple test to see what the rivets were made out of. I attempted to scratch them with a knife, and they were clearly far softer than stainless. I didn’t do any further tests, but made the decision then to replace any before they saw spirits. And after seeing the corrosion on the pot I was cooking in, I’m sorely tempted to do the same on that one, even though it’s almost exclusively used for sous vide these days.

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- Deplorable
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Re: Cheap stainless stock pots
I understand that most folks don't have any experience with solid shank rivets, but when driven properly they will create a fluid and vapor tight seal provided the correct size rivet is used for the hole.Steve Broady wrote: ↑Thu Oct 12, 2023 4:42 am For anyone tempted to use those cheap stainless stock pots as either a boiler or storage vessel, pay attention to the handles. I’ve seen some that are welded on, but most are riveted. Those rivets are universally aluminum in my experience.
Here’s a look at some on a pot I was using for sous vide cooking. This is after 24 hours of exposure to water vapor.
IMG_3978.jpeg
If you want to use the pot, and you want to keep the handles, you can get copper rivets pretty cheaply.
IMG_3979.jpeg
This is on a small pot I’m using to build a gin/test still, so I soldered the rivets just to make sure they sealed properly. I’ll go in and clean everything up before I button the boiler up eventually.
Working in the aviation industry I'm fortunate to have the proper tools to work with solid shank rivets, but rarely do I get to use them outside of work. Copper rivets are as easy to work with as aluminum, but Titanium and steel rivets require a little more skill.
Good work on a proper solution.
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Re: Cheap stainless stock pots
Nice work around. Looks like it'll serve you well. Cheer's 
- shadylane
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Re: Cheap stainless stock pots
When I saw "Cheap stainless stock pots" and rivets.
I thought you were fixing to connect two pots together with a shit load of Closed End (Sealed) Domed Head POP Rivets.
Some day, someone will give it a try.
I thought you were fixing to connect two pots together with a shit load of Closed End (Sealed) Domed Head POP Rivets.
Some day, someone will give it a try.
- Steve Broady
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Re: Cheap stainless stock pots
That feels like something that should DEFINITELY be in the What Not To Do section!
I admit, I’ve looked at pop rivets a few times. They sell copper rivets, but upon closer inspection they seem to be copper plated, rather than solid. So, no-go for me.
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- shadylane
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Re: Cheap stainless stock pots
Don't underestimate the holding power of pop rivets.Steve Broady wrote: ↑Thu Oct 12, 2023 7:50 pmThat feels like something that should DEFINITELY be in the What Not To Do section!
I admit, I’ve looked at pop rivets a few times. They sell copper rivets, but upon closer inspection they seem to be copper plated, rather than solid. So, no-go for me.
The best thing about pop rivets is Ya only need to have access to one side and a hammer and anvil isn't needed.
Guess I should start a post about pop rivets and cheap SS pots.
Looks like I'm almost guilty of highjack, since this post is about doing a great job riveting a handle with copper

- Yummyrum
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Re: Cheap stainless stock pots
Nice solution Steve 
I’ve got a similar issue with some stock pots in our kitchen . Never even though of switching them out for copper ones .
Hey are they annelled copper ?

I’ve got a similar issue with some stock pots in our kitchen . Never even though of switching them out for copper ones .

Hey are they annelled copper ?
My recommended goto .
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
- Steve Broady
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Re: Cheap stainless stock pots
I dunno, Yummy. I whacked ‘em with a hammer against an anvil, and they smooshed. I contemplated annealing them first, but thought I’d try them straight out of the bag first. They worked well enough that I didn’t bother.
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- Yummyrum
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Re: Cheap stainless stock pots
Say they probably are thenSteve Broady wrote: ↑Fri Oct 13, 2023 4:42 amI dunno, Yummy. I whacked ‘em with a hammer against an anvil, and they smooshed. I contemplated annealing them first, but thought I’d try them straight out of the bag first. They worked well enough that I didn’t bother.

Guess’n a good smack soon work hardens them
My recommended goto .
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... ion_Theory
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Re: Cheap stainless stock pots
pulling one out of the dead pile to add something....
you can buy rivet sets that fit in an air hammer
Get the correct sized set for the style/size rivet you have
Use a "bucking bar" (otherwise known as a BigAss piece of steel)
to ensure a proper seal, ALWAYS use the hammer on the head and bucking bar on the tag end
this way, the rivet is always pushed into the material, and the material locks up tight against the head, with the flattened tag holding it in place
doing it the other way around, you'll end up with loose connections
I have repaired aluminum boats using aluminum rivets, and when done right, you don't need a gasket, only clean smooth metal
on copper, I'd think a flat-locked seam properly riveted would never leak, and not require any solder.
you can buy rivet sets that fit in an air hammer
Get the correct sized set for the style/size rivet you have
Use a "bucking bar" (otherwise known as a BigAss piece of steel)
to ensure a proper seal, ALWAYS use the hammer on the head and bucking bar on the tag end
this way, the rivet is always pushed into the material, and the material locks up tight against the head, with the flattened tag holding it in place
doing it the other way around, you'll end up with loose connections
I have repaired aluminum boats using aluminum rivets, and when done right, you don't need a gasket, only clean smooth metal
on copper, I'd think a flat-locked seam properly riveted would never leak, and not require any solder.