Rate My Column

[Steelers_Stiller]

My goal is to build a modular column that can be used for stripping runs/potstill mode running with the top of the column capped and output coming thru a liebig or, remove the cap from the top, and insert a copper wound coil to introduce reflux.

The main 2 things I'm curious about are
#1- do you think the length above the Tee is too great?
#2- where would be the best location for a thermometer port? I was thing just below the Tee. I intend to solder in a 1/2" NPT copper female adapter into the column somewhere. I have a stainless thermometer with male threads. I've read countless posts here saying a thermometer is not needed and you can't run a still by temperature and threads explaining why you can't. I understand that. I feel temperature is still a valid reference, especially for someone new to all this. Plus, it would look cool. Copper porn is half the fun, right?

Any other insight you all have on this setup?

[Salt Must Flow]

I wouldn't put a thermometer where you circled. You want it to be in the location of the vapor take-off. I would install one in that tee on the vapor take-off side just before the clamp.

That reflux condenser pipe might be a few inches longer than it needs to be, but it will work just fine. If you do ever feel like chopping a few inches off, that would give you some extra ceiling clearance. I don't foresee it being a problem at all either way. I just don't see anything to really criticize so that's the only reason I mentioned it

[shadylane]

I wouldn't put a thermometer where you circled. You want it to be in the location of the vapor take-off. I would install one in that tee on the vapor take-off side just before the clamp.

+1
Ya don't want cooled reflux dripping on the thermo.
If it does the reading will be several degrees lower than the actual vapor temp.
Also the temp probe needs to be thermally isolated from the copper.

[shadylane]

#1- do you think the length above the Tee is too great?

12" looks about right, I wouldn't go any shorter than that.

[Salt Must Flow]

Yeah now that I think about it, I was wrong about that. My VM reflux condenser is about 9-1/2" long, but it's fixed in place. You're doing a CCVM still so those reflux condensers are usually a little bit longer.

[drmiller100]

Are you going to use packing? What is your goal for product?

The temp probe is in the right place with it you can assure the proof you are getting.

[shadylane]

The temp probe is in the right place with it you can assure the proof you are getting.

Are you saying the temp prob in the circled area is in the right place?

[Steelers_Stiller]

Are you going to use packing? What is your goal for product?

The temp probe is in the right place with it you can assure the proof you are getting.

I'd like this to be a modular setup. In potstill mode, remove one of the vertical sections so the column is only 20" tall. No packing. Top of tee capped. Run it right to the liebig as fast as possible. Use this to strip or maybe save a bit to turn into whiskey depending on my mood that day.

In reflux mode run all column sections. Pack 43" of column. Not sure what packing option to choose yet. Still reading up on that. Top of column open. Copper coil condenser dropped in above the tee to introduce reflux. I'm this mode I'd be looking for a neutral with as high as an ABV as i could manage.

[Salt Must Flow]

I like it. It looks like you soldered the ferrules straight as an arrow. It looks wonky when ferrules are a little crooked even though it won't harm performance. Soldering ferrules perfectly straight isn't always easy to do.

I like that you even put ferrules on both ends of the reflux condenser pipe. That makes that 12" segment usable for other uses too. Good attention to detail.

[MooseMan]

I'd like this to be a modular setup. In potstill mode, remove one of the vertical sections so the column is only 20" tall. No packing. Top of tee capped. Run it right to the liebig as fast as possible. Use this to strip or maybe save a bit to turn into whiskey depending on my mood that day.

In reflux mode run all column sections. Pack 43" of column. Not sure what packing option to choose yet. Still reading up on that. Top of column open. Copper coil condenser dropped in above the tee to introduce reflux. I'm this mode I'd be looking for a neutral with as high as an ABV as i could manage.

Looks really good, and will definitely work as you intend it to, in both modes as you have explained them.

When I run mine in pot mode, I use the reflux condenser spool as my riser because it's the shortest section.
I'd suggest you do the same, then you won't have to remove packing from your column sections every time.

A 12" riser is good on a pot, and when you use it for the reflux spool you can just make the tails of your RC coil as long as required, to get the tip of the coil below the Tee.

I wouldn't bother with the thermo myself, it's just another thing to break/leak/rot etc.

And yeah, it looks neat too!
Although I'd insulate as well as you can from the base of the boiler all the way to the top of the column, it makes a big difference.

[Yummyrum]

I like it . Most of my stuff is modular 2” as well .
I personally don’t see the need for the horizontal extension , but , if you could manage to sub it out for a Valve , you would have a VM

Many like CCVM , but I’m a straight VM fan .

But iff’n you were to go VM , you’d be better off with a 3/4” - 1” ball valve as it would be way easier to adjust than a 2” .

I agree that the 12” top module would be a great riser in Pot still setup . Removing and repacking is a pain in the arse if you don’t need to . Having said that , some experiments I did showed that an insulated packed riser had little difference over an unpacked one .

EDIT : some of my comments might be cross purposed with your other topic . “Rate my Liebig”
viewtopic.php?p=7774371#p7774371

[Steelers_Stiller]

I like it. It looks like you soldered the ferrules straight as an arrow.

Thanks for the compliment but I can't accept it. Nothing on the column is soldered yet. It's just dry fit so I could take some pics to show you all before putting a torch to it. So many here have been very helpful and offered great advice for the many questions I've been posting. I really appreciate it.

[Steelers_Stiller]

When I run mine in pot mode, I use the reflux condenser spool as my riser because it's the shortest section.
I'd suggest you do the same, then you won't have to remove packing from your column sections every time.

Thanks for that tip there. I wasn't sure if the reflux spool would be long enough for pot still mode. Doing that will make switching things around much easier!

[Steelers_Stiller]

I like it . Most of my stuff is modular 2” as well .
I personally don’t see the need for the horizontal extension , but , if you could manage to sub it out for a Valve , you would have a VM

Many like CCVM , but I’m a straight VM fan .

I was reading a few posts of yours explaining your still, why you prefer it and saying it's very easy to run. It definitely caught my attention and is an idea for the future.

[Stonecutter]

The extension above the tee seems a touch long but as long as you have the overhead space to move your coil up and down it shouldn’t matter.
I wouldn’t worry about taking the time to fabricate for a thermometer. If you really wanted one you could always tri clamp one to the top of the riser in potty mode and then it would be easily removed once you realize how worthless it was

Side note, Personally I’d ditch the horizontal extension. I use a beefy shotgun product condenser and I like having it as close to center of mass as possible if that makes sense. Just my preference though.

[MooseMan]

When I run mine in pot mode, I use the reflux condenser spool as my riser because it's the shortest section.
I'd suggest you do the same, then you won't have to remove packing from your column sections every time.

Thanks for that tip there. I wasn't sure if the reflux spool would be long enough for pot still mode. Doing that will make switching things around much easier!

Yeah 12" is plenty long enough, in fact my RC section is 10" and I made my RC coil to suit that length.
Since you haven't yet soldered it up, if it helps to save a bit of height above the Tee then by all means cut it down a bit.

[Steelers_Stiller]

Actually, the spool is 10". It measures 12" from top of spool to the horizontal takeoff on the tee including the female part of the tee.

[MooseMan]

Haha I'm that case exactly the same as mine!

Uncanny.

[drmiller100]

The temp probe is in the right place with it you can assure the proof you are getting.

Are you saying the temp prob in the circled area is in the right place?

How can there be confusion?

[drmiller100]

Are you going to use packing? What is your goal for product?

The temp probe is in the right place with it you can assure the proof you are getting.

I'd like this to be a modular setup. In potstill mode, remove one of the vertical sections so the column is only 20" tall. No packing. Top of tee capped. Run it right to the liebig as fast as possible. Use this to strip or maybe save a bit to turn into whiskey depending on my mood that day.

In reflux mode run all column sections. Pack 43" of column. Not sure what packing option to choose yet. Still reading up on that. Top of column open. Copper coil condenser dropped in above the tee to introduce reflux. I'm this mode I'd be looking for a neutral with as high as an ABV as i could manage.

On the copper you don't have to solder half the fittings. Those which have the female below the male will drip back into the column. They dont generally leak unless you have a bent fitting or something.

[shadylane]

The temp probe is in the right place with it you can assure the proof you are getting.

Are you saying the temp prob in the circled area is in the right place?

How can there be confusion?

No confusion other than that's not a good place to measure vapor temp.

On the copper you don't have to solder half the fittings. Those which have the female below the male will drip back into the column. They dont generally leak unless you have a bent fitting or something.

Maybe not leak, but unsoldered joints aren't very mechanically solid.

[Salt Must Flow]

I totally agree with shady. Handling and use over time would likely cause unsoldered joints to loosen up over time. On top of that, you'd have to keep track of which ferrules need to be oriented up and down. It's just best practice is to solder all joints.

[drmiller100]

I totally agree with shady. Handling and use over time would likely cause unsoldered joints to loosen up over time. On top of that, you'd have to keep track of which ferrules need to be oriented up and down. It's just best practice is to solder all joints.

Dude wants a modular column.

[drmiller100]

The temp probe is in the right place with it you can assure the proof you are getting.

Are you saying the temp prob in the circled area is in the right place?

How can there be confusion?

No confusion other than that's not a good place to measure vapor temp.

On the copper you don't have to solder half the fittings. Those which have the female below the male will drip back into the column. They dont generally leak unless you have a bent fitting or something.

Maybe not leak, but unsoldered joints aren't very mechanically solid.

It is the most important place to measure temp. Measuring there ensures You are measuring purity.

[Stonecutter]

It is the most important place to measure temp. Measuring there ensures You are measuring purity.

That thermometer has absolutely zero to do with purity.
I measure purity with a proof and tralle meter.
The most important place to measure temps is in the mash tun and in the fermenter.

Also, advocating to not secure a distillation rig is dangerous and ignorant.

[drmiller100]

It is the most important place to measure temp. Measuring there ensures You are measuring purity.

That thermometer has absolutely zero to do with purity.
I measure purity with a proof and tralle meter.
The most important place to measure temps is in the mash tun and in the fermenter.

Also, advocating to not secure a distillation rig is dangerous and ignorant.

What temperature does water boil at?

What temperature does 95 percent etoh boil at? What does this temperature do as water content increases 1 percent?
What do my questions have to do with running a reflux still at azeo?

[Stonecutter]

You have the ability to accurately measure an increase in water content by 1% in your shed? As was stated above, you don’t think that thermometer is compromised by any other factor within the column?
Don’t care to comment about the soldering huh?

I stand by my statement. If the Steelers Stiller wants to stare at a thermometer during the run that’s fine but leading them to believe that putting a thermometer in the column of his CCVM rig is going to definitively indicate purity is a joke.

[drmiller100]

You have the ability to accurately measure an increase in water content by 1% in your shed? As was stated above, you don’t think that thermometer is compromised by any other factor within the column?
Don’t care to comment about the soldering huh?

I stand by my statement. If the Steelers Stiller wants to stare at a thermometer during the run that’s fine but leading them to believe that putting a thermometer in the column of his CCVM rig is going to definitively indicate purity is a joke.

You should try it. Cheap digital meat thermometer from walmart.
Full reflux at startup note temperature. Run off the heads. Full reflux. Note temperature.

Start pulling product. If temperature climbs up 0.2 degrees you instantly know you are pulling product to fast.

[Stonecutter]

I’ll admit that I’m an ignorant bastard and I’ve got some bumps to smooth out to get my CCVM column dialed in perfectly. However, I won’t be drilling into my rig for a thermometer. I do use a cheat by way of sight glass. Mine is placed right where the steelers_stiller indicated placement for a thermometer. I use it to help to control flooding.
If a thermometer works for you that’s great it’s your shed.
In my novice approach to blundering through my neutral runs I use a combination of output rate and proof and tralle readings to determine if I’m pulling product too fast.

[drmiller100]

I’ll admit that I’m an ignorant bastard and I’ve got some bumps to smooth out to get my CCVM column dialed in perfectly. However, I won’t be drilling into my rig for a thermometer. I do use a cheat by way of sight glass. Mine is placed right where the steelers_stiller indicated placement for a thermometer. It helps to control flooding.
If a thermometer works for you that’s great.
In my novice approach to blundering through my neutral runs I use a combination of output rate and proof and tralle readings to determine if I’m pulling product too fast.

You certainly are very assertive for being so wrong.

How about you make 10 or 15 gallons of azeo before you continue denigrating the science of distillation.

I am poor at the art of making good tasting hooch but I've made and run a lot of stills and also pretty good at the science of it.