Thumper with inlet on side

[medamorg]

I'm in the process of building a new thump keg from a 3 gallon milk can. The lid has multiple contours on it and I've already decided to put a bulkhead on the top in the middle to hang my liepig condenser from. My question is, can I just have the inlet from the pot come in the side of the thumper close the bottom by adding a 1 inch bulkhead, or do it need to come through the top and pipe to the bottom of the thumper? Thanks for all the information fellas.

[Twisted Brick]

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This might help explain things.

Myles is well-respected and has shiploads of experience in stilling and design.

[medamorg]

Thank you for the response. From what I'm reading/understanding, it puts backpressure that can cause it back feed into the pot. Is that a correct assumption?

[OtisT]

I don’t believe it matters where your vapor path comes into you boiler. Top or side input, it will work the same.

[NormandieStill]

I've done both. I only changed because I wanted a more uniform heating from the centre. I may experiment again with the side input. It would make draining the boiler charge after the run easier as my current steam head sits directly over the drain port!

[OtisT]

I've done both. I only changed because I wanted a more uniform heating from the centre. I may experiment again with the side input. It would make draining the boiler charge after the run easier as my current steam head sits directly over the drain port!

You could run a spear from the side.

[NormandieStill]

I've done both. I only changed because I wanted a more uniform heating from the centre. I may experiment again with the side input. It would make draining the boiler charge after the run easier as my current steam head sits directly over the drain port!

You could run a spear from the side.

I may make a simple 90° bend and see if I can get it to whirlpool. My first attempt was a tube that ran the whole diameter of the keg with waaaay too many holes and the thick mash I'd put in only got heated along a narrow strip. Less is often more with steam injection.

[Chronical]

I’ve been winding the same thing cause I have a 5 gallon with a 2” tri clamp on side of bottom I wonder if someone could fix some kind of elbow to go into liquid to clamp on with elbow so I do t build some much back pressure

IMG_0476.jpeg

The picture is
I'm trying to find someone that can build me two things

4” to 2” cap

And

that elbow extension to percolate the thump juice

[higgins]

Thumper_in.jpg

This is my apparatus to inject steam into my main boiler (goes into the side of a 2" tee that is on the top of the keg), but it could work as a side input to a thumper.

Take a 3/4" sweat to 1" FIP copper adapter and file out the stops inside to allow a 3/4" copper pipe to slide thru as far as you need, then solder it. Slide a 1" MIP to 2" TC fitting over the copper pipe and thread into the FIP fitting, then add whatever you need to extend it down to the bottom of the keg. I used 2 45* elbows instead of a 90 - makes it easier to insert it into the tee (or TC flange).

[Chronical]

This is my apparatus to inject steam into my main boiler (goes into the side of a 2" tee that is on the top of the keg), but it could work as a side input to a thumper.

Take a 3/4" sweat to 1" FIP copper adapter and file out the stops inside to allow a 3/4" copper pipe to slide thru as far as you need, then solder it. Slide a 1" MIP to 2" TC fitting over the copper pipe and thread into the FIP fitting, then add whatever you need to extend it down to the bottom of the keg. I used 2 45* elbows instead of a 90 - makes it easier to insert it into the tee (or TC flange).

Thank you for the info I’m ordering a 2”(64mm) tc end cap with a 50.8mm hole and gonna solder/rig a elbow on inside and a straight piece of 2” and a ferrule to outside
But if I reflux like this and just run a elbow will it still run like this once I get my elbows

IMG_0515.jpeg

And here is how I would run it

IMG_0515.jpeg

[NormandieStill]

I may be misunderstanding your final picture, but personally I would try and shorten the riser to keep the horizontal section just above the fill line in the thumper. Any lower and the contents of the thumper can trickle back into your boiler, but all that extra height is just space for passive condensing to happen which means less energy going into the thumper and potentially, more liquid going in as well.

[Chronical]

I may be misunderstanding your final picture, but personally I would try and shorten the riser to keep the horizontal section just above the fill line in the thumper. Any lower and the contents of the thumper can trickle back into your boiler, but all that extra height is just space for passive condensing to happen which means less energy going into the thumper and potentially, more liquid going in as well.

Above the reducer is a dephlegmator I was gonna run it so my thumper would receive higher proof and it would have a cleaner higher proof product that I’ll just fill thumper with flavor to give a clean good flavor(whatever is in the thumper) and high proof clear liquor

Wouldn’t that work?

[SW_Shiner]

I don't think that is a good idea, and i may be wrong, but doesnt seem like that would work too well. generally you want a short path to the thumper and ideally insulated to stop heat loss. Sucking a bunch of heat out seems like a bad idea. Id be worried about it not transferring enough heat over to heat the thumper enough to continue through. Deflags don't belong on a pot still.

[NormandieStill]

I had thought you were using the boiler as a steam generator. If you're putting alcohol in there and have a deflag, I'd just use the column to increase the proof. If you really want a column and a thumper, I'd have thought the column should go after the thumper, although I'm not sure that the output of a thumper is a great input to a column.

[Yummyrum]

I tend to agree Normandie .
Pot straight to Thumper and any reflux after that .
But that means that the thumper will quickly fill up as there is more going into it from both ends .

There needs to be a liquid overflow , back to the boiler .

[Chronical]

So if I remove the dephlegmator and do some packing of copper mesh in reducer and long drop tube would that cool it too much or nah I should be good I have a 6500 watt element to feed this setup

IMG_0515.jpeg

Or do like you was saying and just copper everything after the thumper

[NormandieStill]

So if I remove the dephlegmator and do some packing of copper mesh in reducer and long drop tube would that cool it too much or nah I should be good I have a 6500 watt element to feed this setup

IMG_0515.jpeg

Or do like you was saying and just copper everything after the thumper

OK. Go back to basics. What are you trying to make? (Not hardware... booze.) Your target spirit(s) will dictate the hardware. What are you planning on putting into the boiler, and what would go into the thumper? If the aim is to get the proof up, then the thumper should be a good call. If you're trying to clean the spirit up, then you might be better with a packed column and dephleg. I don't have a thumper (or rather, I have one, but only use it for steam stripping on the grain) so I'm perhaps not the best source of information, but I don't see any reason why you'd want both.

[Chronical]

Cause I was gonna bring up the proof but use the thumper for flavor also So if I was the first reflecting after the thumper, then it would strip too much flavor I would think

[Twisted Brick]

I think you are making this way way too complicated. Like Normandie says, Go back to basics. Double-distilling through a straight pot still (no packing, no thumper) produces superb flavored spirits. If you want to make neutral, build a proper packed column.

Simply elevating the ABV of a pot-stilled brown spirit runs counter to the objective of producing a lower (barrel-entry proof) ABV spirit at takeoff.

[Steve Broady]

It sounds to me like you’re trying to come up with some kind of one-and-done rig to make flavored moonshine, with the flavor additives in the thumper. Is that right?

I don’t think it’s the best approach. First of all, you haven’t got any way to make cuts between the boiler and the thumpers, which means that all the heads and tails are going to end up in there. All you’re removing is water, not nasties. Secondly, I feel like the task of cleaning up a spirit needs different equipment and operation than the task of flavoring an already clean spirit.

That’s not to say that it can’t be done. You can do plenty of less than ideal things. Hell, I hauled half a ton of marble tile in a Kia hatchback. And I’m sure the fact that the engine disintegrated a few months later was totally unrelated… but I know I ended up replacing the shocks because of it. Point being, just because you can doesn’t mean you should.

[Chronical]

I think you are making this way way too complicated. Like Normandie says, Go back to basics. Double-distilling through a straight pot still (no packing, no thumper) produces superb flavored spirits. If you want to make neutral, build a proper packed column.

Simply elevating the ABV of a pot-stilled brown spirit runs counter to the objective of producing a lower (barrel-entry proof) ABV spirit at takeoff.

Well I ran a pot still with many different kinds of product from:
Blue agave for tequila/mezcal
Ujssm up to 7th gen 6 times
Fig brandy off a huge fig bush at my grandparents
Red grape brandy off their vine
Muscadine off there vine
All grain corn run w/ amylase
Vodka from potatoes
Apple that’s been deseeded and cored from 4 bushels
And molasses and brown sugar for a rum

So after all that from the past 1 and 1/2 years is why I’m trying to upgrade my still from a 5 gallon to this keg and thumper setup

I’m just trying to figure out how to setup a one run and done that picks up more flavor than the single pot and pick up proof while also trying to figure where to shove the copper mesh to remove the sulfides in the same run

Ps. I have about 14 ft of 2” type L copper and 8 ferrules to build the tubing however tall and long I need too if you have any ideas that could help

It sounds to me like you’re trying to come up with some kind of one-and-done rig to make flavored moonshine, with the flavor additives in the thumper. Is that right?

I don’t think it’s the best approach. First of all, you haven’t got any way to make cuts between the boiler and the thumpers, which means that all the heads and tails are going to end up in there. All you’re removing is water, not nasties. Secondly, I feel like the task of cleaning up a spirit needs different equipment and operation than the task of flavoring an already clean spirit.

That’s not to say that it can’t be done. You can do plenty of less than ideal things. Hell, I hauled half a ton of marble tile in a Kia hatchback. And I’m sure the fact that the engine disintegrated a few months later was totally unrelated… but I know I ended up replacing the shocks because of it. Point being, just because you can doesn’t mean you should.

So your saying I should strip run then do a higher proof flavor addition in thumper a second run so it get both things done correctly

[Steve Broady]

I’m just trying to figure out how to setup a one run and done that picks up more flavor than the single pot and pick up proof while also trying to figure where to shove the copper mesh to remove the sulfides in the same run

Are you sure that sulfides are the thing you want to remove? From what I understand, IF they are present in any significant quantity then you can get better results by just chucking some copper pipe into the boiler. But more importantly, there’s a lot more than sulfides that you want to remove. Think about it this way: if it were practical to remove all the nasty crap from a spirit via chemical reaction, then every major distillery would probably be doing it. The only “neutral” alcohol product that I’m aware of which has not been distilled is the selection of seltzers on the market. And they’re not good!

So your saying I should strip run then do a higher proof flavor addition in thumper a second run so it get both things done correctly

I’m saying you would benefit from thinking about gin techniques. Make a clean base spirit, THEN add flavor by whatever means you choose. Trying to add flavor with one hand while removing it with the other sounds like a fool’s errand to me. Do one at a time, using the best tools for the job.

[Chronical]

I’m just trying to figure out how to setup a one run and done that picks up more flavor than the single pot and pick up proof while also trying to figure where to shove the copper mesh to remove the sulfides in the same run

Are you sure that sulfides are the thing you want to remove? From what I understand, IF they are present in any significant quantity then you can get better results by just chucking some copper pipe into the boiler. But more importantly, there’s a lot more than sulfides that you want to remove. Think about it this way: if it were practical to remove all the nasty crap from a spirit via chemical reaction, then every major distillery would probably be doing it. The only “neutral” alcohol product that I’m aware of which has not been distilled is the selection of seltzers on the market. And they’re not good!

So your saying I should strip run then do a higher proof flavor addition in thumper a second run so it get both things done correctly

I’m saying you would benefit from thinking about gin techniques. Make a clean base spirit, THEN add flavor by whatever means you choose. Trying to add flavor with one hand while removing it with the other sounds like a fool’s errand to me. Do one at a time, using the best tools for the job.

Apple brandy is what I’m aiming for this mash in which I made 55 gallons out of 120-150 pounds of apples and 75 lbs sugar I’m thinking somewhere probably around 4-5 runs with the setup

what Im getting from what your saying is “Don’t run with any copper go straight from 4in to 2in reducer, triple elbow to thumper and out the thumper double elbow over to shotgun condenser and out”, short n simple

[squigglefunk]

Apple brandy is what I’m aiming for this mash in which I made 55 gallons out of 120-150 pounds of apples and 75 lbs sugar I’m thinking somewhere probably around 4-5 runs with the setup

IMO for apple brandy leave out the sugar, it's only hurting your flavor. Think about this. 150 LBs of apples will get you 12.5 gallons of juice more or less, so if you're making 55 gallon ferments the other 42.5 gallons is all powered by sugar. When I make apple brandy I use only pure juice no added water or sugar. There should be no reason to need doublers, dephlegmators, or anything to make apple brandy. Just double distilled through a pot still will give the best results, again, only my opinion.

[NormandieStill]

Just double distilled through a pot still will give the best results, again, only my opinion.

I thought this until a few months back I tasted the output from a 2 column continuous still pumping out apple brandy at 60%. And damn if it didn't taste of apple straight off the still. If I can work out the angle, I have to find a way to get more info from the distiller.

[shadylane]

My question is, can I just have the inlet from the pot come in the side of the thumper close the bottom by adding a 1 inch bulkhead, or do it need to come through the top and pipe to the bottom of the thumper?

Depending on how it's being used.
Sometimes it's necessary to remove the thumper inlet for cleaning mid run.
This would be difficult or impossible if the pipe enters near the bottom side.

[Tammuz]

I don't think that is a good idea, and i may be wrong, but doesnt seem like that would work too well. generally you want a short path to the thumper and ideally insulated to stop heat loss. Sucking a bunch of heat out seems like a bad idea. Id be worried about it not transferring enough heat over to heat the thumper enough to continue through. Deflags don't belong on a pot still.

Dephlegmators have uses on a pot still,if you use them right. They can hold back heads while you are adding some esters. Hold back your tails a bit. Depends on where you place it, how much water you pass through it. Also playing with it a little in loading plates quicker.

[Tammuz]

My question is, can I just have the inlet from the pot come in the side of the thumper close the bottom by adding a 1 inch bulkhead, or do it need to come through the top and pipe to the bottom of the thumper?

Depending on how it's being used.
Sometimes it's necessary to remove the thumper inlet for cleaning mid run.
This would be difficult or impossible if the pipe enters near the bottom side.

By this, you mean after it puked or have you had other reasons.

[shadylane]

A bad puke or having corn mash in the thumper plugging up the inlet due to mistakes.
A side inlet will work, but the possibility of problems should be kept in mind.

[Tammuz]

Add a 2" triclamp to your thumper,put a ball valve on top of that,then a section of pipe on top of that. After your heads pass open the ball valve and add your fruits, acids, whatever. When you know your tails are on the way shut down. There might be some wash in the thumper worth mixing with depends on what your playing with.