T500 Modification Still Spirits Turbo 500 Mod
Posted: Thu Aug 22, 2024 8:38 pm
Hello fellow distillers,
I’ve been distilling for a couple of years now, so still reasonably new to it. I got into it because I wanted to make Limoncello and needed high ABV spirits to draw the limonoids out of the lemon peel. Started off with a Chinese ‘football’ still, then bought a second hand T500. I’ve done around 20 runs with the T500 and have been enjoying it. It creates a great, clean spirit, with very little tails. But, like many others, I have 3 issues:
1. The plastic cap, (I definitely agree with rule 1.i of the Home Distiller board rules “no plastic in the run line”.
2. The lack of a temperature probe in the still column head.
3. Separate water flows for the condenser and reflux columns.
I could include of fourth issue that others have mentioned, that of the column needing to be longer. However, I believe it is always a good idea to ask yourself, "Just because I can, does that mean I should?" I have to admit, I didn’t know the answer to that, so I asked someone who did. I spoke with my local brew shop owner about extending column height. He has used the T500 extensively, and for many years. The only extension he has done is to add a sight glass so he can see what is going on. It makes negligible difference to the finished product. After speaking with him I decided not add any extension on the T500 column. Further reasons being:
• The column height to width ratio is about 1:12, which is less than the ideal 1:15. But the column is married/tuned to the boiler. So, if I changed one, I would probably have to change the other.
• The T500 already produces a high-purity distillate at a very efficient operating cost. The expense of adding a sight glass or a 50cm/19” copper extension and all the fittings ($225AU in 2024), for a negligible improvement in purity doesn’t seem worth it.
My conclusion is that you would be better off buying a different type of still. But, good luck to anybody that wants to try it. Let me know how you go!
I’ve researched other people’s suggestions, experimented with them and come up with three cheap modifications. They require a reasonable amount of workshop knowhow, metalworking skills and tools. Get some help from someone who has these skills if you are unsure. Now some words of warning.
WARNING WARNING WARNING
For those of you who have only recently purchased a T500, before you do any modifications, use it a few times as it is. Get used to it, even if it’s only doing a few water distillation runs.
I recommend this because the first modification BYPASSES THE STILL SPIRITS PRESSURE RELEASE SAFETY FEATURE which allows not only pressure release to stop EXPLOSION, but prevents a vacuum IMPLOSION. So, it is safer if you are familiar with the T500 in its unaltered state before you go modifying it.
If you do decide to modify it, do it knowing that IT IS AT YOUR OWN RISK, AND THAT I ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANYTHING THAT MAY GO WRONG, OR ANY INJURIES YOU MIGHT INCUR.
Having said that, I see no real reason for this still to implode or explode if you take the two simple precautions:
1. Drill a hole in the new copper cap column head and put in a thermometer or a piece of cork, and
2. As SOON AS YOU HAVE FINISHED THE RUN AND TURNED THE POWER OFF, carefully/safely, with gloves/eye protection, flip the lid clips, OPEN THE LID and pop something in there (like a screwdriver) to keep it open.
Simple. These safety issues will be discussed in a bit more detail towards the end. But if you are at all unsure what you are doing, speak with a plumber, electrician, or engineer before going forward.
The best part of all three modifications is that you will be able to put your T500 back together again just as it was.
As I am Australian, I have used metric units, with freedom units listed after. I am unfamiliar with freedom units, please do your own conversions if mine seem a bit odd (like I don’t know if there is a such a thing as a 16/64” drill bit!).
The first modification is replacing the plastic cap with a copper one. You will need:
• A 50mm (2”) copper end cap,
• 10cm (4”) of standard, 12.7mm (1/2”) copper tubing,
• Lead free (Aquasafe) solder
• A brazing torch (or the wife’s kitchen culinary torch)
• Teflon PTFE plumbers’ tape
• Stainless steel hose clamps.
• Some O-rings, or the rubber washer from water tap washer (or you can use more PTFE tape if you like).
You will also need a reasonably well stocked workshop.
The 50mm (2”) copper end cap should look like this one:
Make sure with the supplier that the INTERNAL DIAMETER (ID) of the cap is 50mm (actually 50.8mm/2”). The T500 column has an EXTERNAL DIAMETER (ED) of 50.8mm/2”. This cap will fit loosely over the top of the column. A hose clamp and the rubber O-ring inside the cap will seal it.
When you have your parts, take your column apart. Remove the column from the lid. Remove all the packing. Undo and remove the short hose at the top of the column. Remove the press nut/washer at the top of the column by prying it up with a fine screwdriver until you get enough space to grab it with a pair of pliers, then twist and pull it up the pipe. You will probably crush the press nut, but don’t worry, you won’t need it (or you can flatten it out again, or buy a new one).
Undo the 2 top screws, and the 2 bottom screws with whatever you can find to fit them (if you are trying to find the right head for these screws, they are called Robertson screws, also known as a square screw or Scrulox).
Put little smear of Vaseline on the end of the copper pipe that comes out through the plastic cap. Firmly pull up, rock, and twist the black plastic cap until it slides off. Wipe off the Vaseline. Take this opportunity to have a look at the inside of the column and the cap, see how it all fits together and works. Have a smell of your column. Perhaps it’s time to give it a good wash out! I used a long bottle brush, brushing from both ends. Then soak the copper and stainless steel saddles and the column overnight in a weak 1/20 vinegar solution. Give it another brush out the next day. You probably won’t get all the smells out, but it will be better.
Make the End Cap Connector Pipe
Now you have the column apart it’s time to shape the end cap connector pipe. This small pipe will join the reflux column to the condenser pipe. Take your 10cm (4”) of 12.7mm (½”) diameter copper pipe and slide it over the condenser pipe. You’ll notice that it is too large in its internal diameter, by about 1mm (3/64”). Not to worry! You are now going to work on your blacksmith skills. Mark out the last 3cm (1 3/16”) of the 10cm/4” pipe. Wearing gloves and using a pair of needle nosed pliers to hold one end, heat the other end with a gas torch. It doesn’t have to be red hot. Use the pliers to hold it on a piece steel or other hard surface. Then, using a small hammer start tapping on that 3cm (1 3/16”) end, tap it a bit, roll it bit, then tap again. Tap tap tap, roll, tap tap tap, roll. Keep working, tapping and heating it every minute or two. The aim is to reduce the diameter so it is a snug fit over the horizontal column arm pipe. Keep going until you are happy with it. If you’re not happy, cut it off and start with a new piece! It doesn’t need to be tight, just snug, it will be hold in place with a steel hose clamp, so it should slide on and off easily. You should end up with something that looks like this:
Take this opportunity to polish the beaten end up using a wire brush or sandpaper. It’s easier to hold on to and polish before you cut the end off. This beaten end piece of pipe is then cut to the correct length to fit between the inside of the press end cap, over the horizontal column arm pipe and up to the condenser pipe. I cut my piece off at 21mm (53/64”), but like all these measurements, they are for my T500. Please make your own measurements, make sure they fit your still:
Soldering the Connector Pipe to the End Cap
Now to work on the 50mm copper end cap. Remove the black rubber O-ring from the inside of the end cap. Now take a thin piece of wire or a paperclip and make an ‘L’ shape with it, long side about 5cm (2”), short side exactly 6mm (15/64”), like the one in this picture:
Use this piece of wire to find the point where you will drill a hole for reflux cooling pipe to come out. Hole punch at the very tip of the ‘L’, then drill a 6.5mm (16/64”) hole.
(I can only attach 6 photos in one post, so - To be continued....)
I’ve been distilling for a couple of years now, so still reasonably new to it. I got into it because I wanted to make Limoncello and needed high ABV spirits to draw the limonoids out of the lemon peel. Started off with a Chinese ‘football’ still, then bought a second hand T500. I’ve done around 20 runs with the T500 and have been enjoying it. It creates a great, clean spirit, with very little tails. But, like many others, I have 3 issues:
1. The plastic cap, (I definitely agree with rule 1.i of the Home Distiller board rules “no plastic in the run line”.
2. The lack of a temperature probe in the still column head.
3. Separate water flows for the condenser and reflux columns.
I could include of fourth issue that others have mentioned, that of the column needing to be longer. However, I believe it is always a good idea to ask yourself, "Just because I can, does that mean I should?" I have to admit, I didn’t know the answer to that, so I asked someone who did. I spoke with my local brew shop owner about extending column height. He has used the T500 extensively, and for many years. The only extension he has done is to add a sight glass so he can see what is going on. It makes negligible difference to the finished product. After speaking with him I decided not add any extension on the T500 column. Further reasons being:
• The column height to width ratio is about 1:12, which is less than the ideal 1:15. But the column is married/tuned to the boiler. So, if I changed one, I would probably have to change the other.
• The T500 already produces a high-purity distillate at a very efficient operating cost. The expense of adding a sight glass or a 50cm/19” copper extension and all the fittings ($225AU in 2024), for a negligible improvement in purity doesn’t seem worth it.
My conclusion is that you would be better off buying a different type of still. But, good luck to anybody that wants to try it. Let me know how you go!
I’ve researched other people’s suggestions, experimented with them and come up with three cheap modifications. They require a reasonable amount of workshop knowhow, metalworking skills and tools. Get some help from someone who has these skills if you are unsure. Now some words of warning.
WARNING WARNING WARNING
For those of you who have only recently purchased a T500, before you do any modifications, use it a few times as it is. Get used to it, even if it’s only doing a few water distillation runs.
I recommend this because the first modification BYPASSES THE STILL SPIRITS PRESSURE RELEASE SAFETY FEATURE which allows not only pressure release to stop EXPLOSION, but prevents a vacuum IMPLOSION. So, it is safer if you are familiar with the T500 in its unaltered state before you go modifying it.
If you do decide to modify it, do it knowing that IT IS AT YOUR OWN RISK, AND THAT I ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANYTHING THAT MAY GO WRONG, OR ANY INJURIES YOU MIGHT INCUR.
Having said that, I see no real reason for this still to implode or explode if you take the two simple precautions:
1. Drill a hole in the new copper cap column head and put in a thermometer or a piece of cork, and
2. As SOON AS YOU HAVE FINISHED THE RUN AND TURNED THE POWER OFF, carefully/safely, with gloves/eye protection, flip the lid clips, OPEN THE LID and pop something in there (like a screwdriver) to keep it open.
Simple. These safety issues will be discussed in a bit more detail towards the end. But if you are at all unsure what you are doing, speak with a plumber, electrician, or engineer before going forward.
The best part of all three modifications is that you will be able to put your T500 back together again just as it was.
As I am Australian, I have used metric units, with freedom units listed after. I am unfamiliar with freedom units, please do your own conversions if mine seem a bit odd (like I don’t know if there is a such a thing as a 16/64” drill bit!).
The first modification is replacing the plastic cap with a copper one. You will need:
• A 50mm (2”) copper end cap,
• 10cm (4”) of standard, 12.7mm (1/2”) copper tubing,
• Lead free (Aquasafe) solder
• A brazing torch (or the wife’s kitchen culinary torch)
• Teflon PTFE plumbers’ tape
• Stainless steel hose clamps.
• Some O-rings, or the rubber washer from water tap washer (or you can use more PTFE tape if you like).
You will also need a reasonably well stocked workshop.
The 50mm (2”) copper end cap should look like this one:
When you have your parts, take your column apart. Remove the column from the lid. Remove all the packing. Undo and remove the short hose at the top of the column. Remove the press nut/washer at the top of the column by prying it up with a fine screwdriver until you get enough space to grab it with a pair of pliers, then twist and pull it up the pipe. You will probably crush the press nut, but don’t worry, you won’t need it (or you can flatten it out again, or buy a new one).
Undo the 2 top screws, and the 2 bottom screws with whatever you can find to fit them (if you are trying to find the right head for these screws, they are called Robertson screws, also known as a square screw or Scrulox).
Put little smear of Vaseline on the end of the copper pipe that comes out through the plastic cap. Firmly pull up, rock, and twist the black plastic cap until it slides off. Wipe off the Vaseline. Take this opportunity to have a look at the inside of the column and the cap, see how it all fits together and works. Have a smell of your column. Perhaps it’s time to give it a good wash out! I used a long bottle brush, brushing from both ends. Then soak the copper and stainless steel saddles and the column overnight in a weak 1/20 vinegar solution. Give it another brush out the next day. You probably won’t get all the smells out, but it will be better.
Make the End Cap Connector Pipe
Now you have the column apart it’s time to shape the end cap connector pipe. This small pipe will join the reflux column to the condenser pipe. Take your 10cm (4”) of 12.7mm (½”) diameter copper pipe and slide it over the condenser pipe. You’ll notice that it is too large in its internal diameter, by about 1mm (3/64”). Not to worry! You are now going to work on your blacksmith skills. Mark out the last 3cm (1 3/16”) of the 10cm/4” pipe. Wearing gloves and using a pair of needle nosed pliers to hold one end, heat the other end with a gas torch. It doesn’t have to be red hot. Use the pliers to hold it on a piece steel or other hard surface. Then, using a small hammer start tapping on that 3cm (1 3/16”) end, tap it a bit, roll it bit, then tap again. Tap tap tap, roll, tap tap tap, roll. Keep working, tapping and heating it every minute or two. The aim is to reduce the diameter so it is a snug fit over the horizontal column arm pipe. Keep going until you are happy with it. If you’re not happy, cut it off and start with a new piece! It doesn’t need to be tight, just snug, it will be hold in place with a steel hose clamp, so it should slide on and off easily. You should end up with something that looks like this:
Now to work on the 50mm copper end cap. Remove the black rubber O-ring from the inside of the end cap. Now take a thin piece of wire or a paperclip and make an ‘L’ shape with it, long side about 5cm (2”), short side exactly 6mm (15/64”), like the one in this picture:
