Oak Still Controller rebuild / replacement

[GABrew]

Hey All-

Last year I bought a 100l jacketed boiler/4 plate still. Overall, I'm really pleased with it, and I'm starting to get the hang of running it. It's a lot different than my homemade pony keg boiler and Home Depot build Leibig condenser, lol. Like I said, I'm mostly really happy with it.

Where it's lacking, in my opinion, is the controller. All the internal components feel really cheap and flimsy. It does work, and I can absolutely run my rig with it, but I'd really like to make it better. I'm using this right now to drive 2x 3Kw elements of a 220v dedicated circuit I installed in my panel.

I can't seem to be able to find it now, but somewhere in here, I found a link or a reference to a controller / component that was programmable so I could say things like "100% power until temp at probe 1 is 150f then 30% power" or something along those lines. I don't want to try and automate my still, but it would be great if I could hand off a little of the "heat up babysitting" I do.

I guess a few questions if you'll humor me....

1. Do you know what I'm talking about? Some sort of programmable device that I've seen in here (and as a product for purchase on a manufacturers website)..

2. Is there any decent recommendation for an "off the shelf" controller? I'm not really sure I'm up for a DIY controller build. If I can buy something, I might prefer that.

3. I've seen reference to folks building controllers for each other in here .. is any of that still going on? I'd love to entertain hiring someone in here to rebuild my Oak Stills / Chinese controller for me.

4. If none of the above works out for me, I'll search for (and take recommendations for) good threads or builds that I can take on myself if I need to.

Thanks yall.

csh

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[jonnys_spirit]

The main components in a controller are pretty inexpensive. Quality connectors and switches being the most expensive.

Auber makes a number of fancy controllers if you want that kind of control:
https://www.auberins.com/
Not that you need a PID for stillin but it can be useful for certain things.

Various meters and temp guages can also be added to your box as desired if you want that kind of thing. I'm ok with a rotary power control potentiometer that I use to estimate power but an ammeter is also useful as a reference and for confidence IMO.

Cheers,
jonny

[Born_Free]

I have purchased many times from Oak Stills, love their products and prices but do not recommend their electrical components.

A good source of information and parts can be found on this beer brewing centric web site:

https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/pag ... ur-brewery

ETA: Even if you are not comfortable doing it yourself it is handy to show an electrical type person the site for some ideas on how to construct.

[scubatech]

Auber makes one specifically for distilling.
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... cts_id=559

[GABrew]

Auber makes one specifically for distilling.
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... cts_id=559

Thanks! This is the exact unit I had in mind! Thanks so much! Now I need to figure out how / if I can integrate this into the box / components I already have from Oak Stills. Although honestly, I think about the only part I want to keep from my current controller is the box

[Salt Must Flow]

GABrew, it definitely is the Auber DSPR200/DSPR400. I always went with the DSPR400 which has two additional programmable relay outputs.

For either model, you can download the PDF instruction manual in the link above and find this setting on page 5 and it's called "6.3 Distilling Parameters". The controller's behavior drove me absolutely crazy for a while. I didn't realize there was a default setting that wouldn't allow me to manually control the power setting. It really pissed me off. I was about to return the unit I realized it was a default setting. I changed that setting and NOW I have 100% manual control over the power input of the controller.

I have a reliable wiring diagram for the DSPR400. I built two of these controllers so I know the wiring works.

[GABrew]

GABrew, it definitely is the Auber DSPR200/DSPR400. I always went with the DSPR400 which has two additional programmable relay outputs.

For either model, you can download the PDF instruction manual in the link above and find this setting on page 5 and it's called "6.3 Distilling Parameters". The controller's behavior drove me absolutely crazy for a while. I didn't realize there was a default setting that wouldn't allow me to manually control the power setting. It really pissed me off. I was about to return the unit I realized it was a default setting. I changed that setting and NOW I have 100% manual control over the power input of the controller.

I have a reliable wiring diagram for the DSPR400. I built two of these controllers so I know the wiring works.

This is excellent. Thanks so much. I hope you won't mind if I pester you. I think I'd like to build a new controller with this if I can.

[Salt Must Flow]

GABrew, it definitely is the Auber DSPR200/DSPR400. I always went with the DSPR400 which has two additional programmable relay outputs.

For either model, you can download the PDF instruction manual in the link above and find this setting on page 5 and it's called "6.3 Distilling Parameters". The controller's behavior drove me absolutely crazy for a while. I didn't realize there was a default setting that wouldn't allow me to manually control the power setting. It really pissed me off. I was about to return the unit I realized it was a default setting. I changed that setting and NOW I have 100% manual control over the power input of the controller.

I have a reliable wiring diagram for the DSPR400. I built two of these controllers so I know the wiring works.

This is excellent. Thanks so much. I hope you won't mind if I pester you. I think I'd like to build a new controller with this if I can.

No problem. Following a wiring diagram is as simple as playing 'connect the dots'. The hardest part is installing all of the physical parts, components, fixtures, etc... The wiring is easy.

Each Auber DSPR400 I built is dedicated to operating a single 5500W element. In other words, each controller operates their own element. It appears your enclosure has a single 240V circuit intended to operate two 3000W elements. I would give some serious thought to how you want your controller to work before moving forward in any way.

[GABrew]

GABrew, it definitely is the Auber DSPR200/DSPR400. I always went with the DSPR400 which has two additional programmable relay outputs.

For either model, you can download the PDF instruction manual in the link above and find this setting on page 5 and it's called "6.3 Distilling Parameters". The controller's behavior drove me absolutely crazy for a while. I didn't realize there was a default setting that wouldn't allow me to manually control the power setting. It really pissed me off. I was about to return the unit I realized it was a default setting. I changed that setting and NOW I have 100% manual control over the power input of the controller.

I have a reliable wiring diagram for the DSPR400. I built two of these controllers so I know the wiring works.

This is excellent. Thanks so much. I hope you won't mind if I pester you. I think I'd like to build a new controller with this if I can.

No problem. Following a wiring diagram is as simple as playing 'connect the dots'. The hardest part is installing all of the physical parts, components, fixtures, etc... The wiring is easy.

Each Auber DSPR400 I built is dedicated to operating a single 5500W element. In other words, each controller operates their own element. It appears your enclosure has a single 240V circuit intended to operate two 3000W elements. I would give some serious thought to how you want your controller to work before moving forward in any way.

Agreed. Fortunately I'm not in a rush so I can take my time and figure out what's right for me. You're correct regarding my current controller. It's got a single 240v input circuit. As you can see on the outside of the box are 2 potentiometers, 2 on/off switches, 2 power indicator lights, and a single display showing the total amps. I don't have a better picture of the internals, but once I'm done with the current run, I'll open it up and take a better look.

I'm not sure I know enough of the right questions to ask or research to do in order to answer the question (or suggestion) of giving serious thought to how I want my controller to operate before moving forward. I'm still very early in the learning curve of "electric" and jacketed boiler and plated column. But I've done 5 or 6 runs so far and I am slowing starting to dial things in and get a "feel" for where I need things to be with this controller and my needle valves for cooling water on the deph. and product condenser.

I just know that even with my limited experience on this setup that A) I'm dealing with CHEAP parts from China that feel like if I look at them wrong, they'll fall apart, and B) if I'm going to rebuild / upgrade the parts, I might as well "do it right," whatever that means.

For now I know I'd like better granular control over the input power. I don't know if it's the pots, or the display or what, but sometimes even a teeny little nudge on one of the pots will cause the amps to jump from 14 - 18 .. whereas sometimes a hefty turn one way or the other yields almost no change. As for whether I want single larger heating elements or smaller double elements, I'm not sure I'm mature enough in my journey yet to know what the right thing is. I know I'd LOVE to be able to set some simple parameters as described in the product pages for the DSPR400 like "100% power until temp at probe 1 is 155f" or something like that. I'm not sure how I feel about being able to do things like trying to alarm at specific temps for thinks like heads / hearts cuts, etc. Maybe that's a thing, but seems most people believe that's more of an "art" than a science. Maybe I'm wrong there. I don't know.

Anyway, appreciate the advice as I'm headed down this path. Thanks.

Chris

[PalCabral]

No idea where the Auber is made but just because you buy from an American or European company doesn’t mean they’re not made in China. You’re getting the same ”junk”, but with an added 10-50% on the price. Just be aware.

[Salt Must Flow]

No idea where the Auber is made but just because you buy from an American or European company doesn’t mean they’re not made in China. You’re getting the same ”junk”, but with an added 10-50% on the price. Just be aware.

I'm 99% certain they are made in china, but I've never heard anyone associate Auber with "junk". Their products are reliable and they stand behind their products. I've built at least 5 of their controllers and none of them have ever had an issue in over 10 or more years.

[Yummyrum]

My DSPR1
Designed by Auber
Assembled in China …. But wheres it made

IMG_3194.jpeg

Nothing shoddy about it . Well , other than the paint has worn off the knob .

At least the instructions are all intelligible , unlike the Chinglish manual that come with my PID from Aliexpress .

The things that worry me more about Chinese cheap stuff is the reliability of the components that handle heavy currents such as the SSRs and switches etc . These are where breakdowns and fires start .

GABrew
After your twitchy controller ,you are going to love the Auber .
But be aware that you can’t use a meter to measure any of the current or voltage as the meters will bounce around due to the way Auber Burstfire mode works .Just trust the percentage of full power is close enough .

[SW_Shiner]

No idea where the Auber is made but just because you buy from an American or European company doesn’t mean they’re not made in China. You’re getting the same ”junk”, but with an added 10-50% on the price. Just be aware.

Theres a big difference between reputable companies that chose to do their manufacturing in china, and unscrupulous factories that sell subpar "clones" for cheap.

[PalCabral]

No idea where the Auber is made but just because you buy from an American or European company doesn’t mean they’re not made in China. You’re getting the same ”junk”, but with an added 10-50% on the price. Just be aware.

Theres a big difference between reputable companies that chose to do their manufacturing in china, and unscrupulous factories that sell subpar "clones" for cheap.

Absoutely so, SW, but many buy articles on Amazon or ebay thinking they’re buying US or Euro made and in reality it’s chinese sourced. You buy the same spool or SCR from Ali for half the price. Reputble companies are a totally different thing.

[Tammuz]

When I first wrote about Oakstills I heard all the crap I should buy American made. Those fools tried to tell me it was better even though they are buying Chinese made products. I have bought many parts from them but being a marine electrician those type of parts I didn't buy. I also have the 400 and recommend it.
You could have told Peter you wanted a custom panel.

I've had to rework many people's easy projects and had to charge them triple for the mess they made.
Everything's easy if you have the knowledge and experience. Taking the chance of burning your shed down to save a buck, I don't know. But I went forward building my still and electrical working on 1/3 of a brain, so we're in the same boat and I kind of understand.

[Salt Must Flow]

My DSPR1
Designed by Auber
Assembled in China …. But wheres it made

IMG_3194.jpeg

Nothing shoddy about it . Well , other than the paint has worn off the knob .

At least the instructions are all intelligible , unlike the Chinglish manual that come with my PID from Aliexpress .

The things that worry me more about Chinese cheap stuff is the reliability of the components that handle heavy currents such as the SSRs and switches etc . These are where breakdowns and fires start .

GABrew
After your twitchy controller ,you are going to love the Auber .
But be aware that you can’t use a meter to measure any of the current or voltage as the meters will bounce around due to the way Auber Burstfire mode works .Just trust the percentage of full power is close enough .

That's good attention to detail there Yummy! I knew Auber dealt with china, but never knew they were "assembled" in china. I just assumed that's where they were made.

[greggn]

! I knew Auber dealt with china, but never knew they were "assembled" in china. I just assumed that's where they were made.

That simply means that the components are made in India, Vietnam, or Malaysia and the final product is assembled in China. The same marketing that US companies have been using for decades.

[Salt Must Flow]

! I knew Auber dealt with china, but never knew they were "assembled" in china. I just assumed that's where they were made.

That simply means that the components are made in India, Vietnam, or Malaysia and the final product is assembled in China. The same marketing that US companies have been using for decades.

I don't get your point. The point was that Auber has never been associated with "junk".

[Pure Old Possum Piss]

GABrew, it definitely is the Auber DSPR200/DSPR400. I always went with the DSPR400 which has two additional programmable relay outputs.

For either model, you can download the PDF instruction manual in the link above and find this setting on page 5 and it's called "6.3 Distilling Parameters". The controller's behavior drove me absolutely crazy for a while. I didn't realize there was a default setting that wouldn't allow me to manually control the power setting. It really pissed me off. I was about to return the unit I realized it was a default setting. I changed that setting and NOW I have 100% manual control over the power input of the controller.

I have a reliable wiring diagram for the DSPR400. I built two of these controllers so I know the wiring works.

This is excellent. Thanks so much. I hope you won't mind if I pester you. I think I'd like to build a new controller with this if I can.

No problem. Following a wiring diagram is as simple as playing 'connect the dots'. The hardest part is installing all of the physical parts, components, fixtures, etc... The wiring is easy.

Each Auber DSPR400 I built is dedicated to operating a single 5500W element. In other words, each controller operates their own element. It appears your enclosure has a single 240V circuit intended to operate two 3000W elements. I would give some serious thought to how you want your controller to work before moving forward in any way.

Agreed. Fortunately I'm not in a rush so I can take my time and figure out what's right for me. You're correct regarding my current controller. It's got a single 240v input circuit. As you can see on the outside of the box are 2 potentiometers, 2 on/off switches, 2 power indicator lights, and a single display showing the total amps. I don't have a better picture of the internals, but once I'm done with the current run, I'll open it up and take a better look.

I'm not sure I know enough of the right questions to ask or research to do in order to answer the question (or suggestion) of giving serious thought to how I want my controller to operate before moving forward. I'm still very early in the learning curve of "electric" and jacketed boiler and plated column. But I've done 5 or 6 runs so far and I am slowing starting to dial things in and get a "feel" for where I need things to be with this controller and my needle valves for cooling water on the deph. and product condenser.

I just know that even with my limited experience on this setup that A) I'm dealing with CHEAP parts from China that feel like if I look at them wrong, they'll fall apart, and B) if I'm going to rebuild / upgrade the parts, I might as well "do it right," whatever that means.

For now I know I'd like better granular control over the input power. I don't know if it's the pots, or the display or what, but sometimes even a teeny little nudge on one of the pots will cause the amps to jump from 14 - 18 .. whereas sometimes a hefty turn one way or the other yields almost no change. As for whether I want single larger heating elements or smaller double elements, I'm not sure I'm mature enough in my journey yet to know what the right thing is. I know I'd LOVE to be able to set some simple parameters as described in the product pages for the DSPR400 like "100% power until temp at probe 1 is 155f" or something like that. I'm not sure how I feel about being able to do things like trying to alarm at specific temps for thinks like heads / hearts cuts, etc. Maybe that's a thing, but seems most people believe that's more of an "art" than a science. Maybe I'm wrong there. I don't know.

Anyway, appreciate the advice as I'm headed down this path. Thanks.

Chris

You'll be better off with two 5500W 240V elements if you have 240V available. If not then two 3500W 120V elements.
You don't have to run either or both elements at 100%. You can for quick warm up, but spreading 3kw heat over 2 elements greatly reduces your chance of scorching. Also be sure to use SS Ultra Low Watt Density Elements.
ULWDs make scorching less likely even with full power.

[GABrew]

This is excellent. Thanks so much. I hope you won't mind if I pester you. I think I'd like to build a new controller with this if I can.

No problem. Following a wiring diagram is as simple as playing 'connect the dots'. The hardest part is installing all of the physical parts, components, fixtures, etc... The wiring is easy.

Each Auber DSPR400 I built is dedicated to operating a single 5500W element. In other words, each controller operates their own element. It appears your enclosure has a single 240V circuit intended to operate two 3000W elements. I would give some serious thought to how you want your controller to work before moving forward in any way.

Agreed. Fortunately I'm not in a rush so I can take my time and figure out what's right for me. You're correct regarding my current controller. It's got a single 240v input circuit. As you can see on the outside of the box are 2 potentiometers, 2 on/off switches, 2 power indicator lights, and a single display showing the total amps. I don't have a better picture of the internals, but once I'm done with the current run, I'll open it up and take a better look.

I'm not sure I know enough of the right questions to ask or research to do in order to answer the question (or suggestion) of giving serious thought to how I want my controller to operate before moving forward. I'm still very early in the learning curve of "electric" and jacketed boiler and plated column. But I've done 5 or 6 runs so far and I am slowing starting to dial things in and get a "feel" for where I need things to be with this controller and my needle valves for cooling water on the deph. and product condenser.

I just know that even with my limited experience on this setup that A) I'm dealing with CHEAP parts from China that feel like if I look at them wrong, they'll fall apart, and B) if I'm going to rebuild / upgrade the parts, I might as well "do it right," whatever that means.

For now I know I'd like better granular control over the input power. I don't know if it's the pots, or the display or what, but sometimes even a teeny little nudge on one of the pots will cause the amps to jump from 14 - 18 .. whereas sometimes a hefty turn one way or the other yields almost no change. As for whether I want single larger heating elements or smaller double elements, I'm not sure I'm mature enough in my journey yet to know what the right thing is. I know I'd LOVE to be able to set some simple parameters as described in the product pages for the DSPR400 like "100% power until temp at probe 1 is 155f" or something like that. I'm not sure how I feel about being able to do things like trying to alarm at specific temps for thinks like heads / hearts cuts, etc. Maybe that's a thing, but seems most people believe that's more of an "art" than a science. Maybe I'm wrong there. I don't know.

Anyway, appreciate the advice as I'm headed down this path. Thanks.

Chris

You'll be better off with two 5500W 240V elements if you have 240V available. If not then two 3500W 120V elements.
You don't have to run either or both elements at 100%. You can for quick warm up, but spreading 3kw heat over 2 elements greatly reduces your chance of scorching. Also be sure to use SS Ultra Low Watt Density Elements.
ULWDs make scorching less likely even with full power.

Salt Must Flow was telling me the same thing. I have a jacketed boiler and I have a single 240v outlet running 2 3Kw elements. Graduating to this from my homemade ponykeg and Leibig from Home Depot .. this rig already seems like all I'll ever need. But I could be talked into running a second 220v outlet, but right now I'm kinda waffling on it because I'm lazy and just don't want to do it

[Pure Old Possum Piss]

GABrew
It's not very hard to add another breaker and run another 240v outlet. Just replacing the 3kw weekends with 5.5kw will nearly double your power.