? on cooling

[sadie33]

I started a 6 gal spirit run of UJSSM yesterday. My pump stopped working so I banged it with my plyers and it worked again. This went on for most of the day, but I was able to maintain the cold at the bottom and hot at the top of my condenser. But then it stopped working.

Today I switched it with a new pump (I use my fish tank pumps the new one is 245 GPH) This one is being weird too. If I don't have it full open it stops. I am going to leave it full open and finish the run like that. I will not be able to maintain the cold/warm.

I'm thinking it could be the tape I wrapped around the threads when I added the switch too. It looks like it might be obstructing the way a bit. I don't want to take it all apart and look at it today, but I'm thinking that pump should be able to handle this.

My ? is how will this effect my run?

As always, thanks for your imput.

[shadylane]

Mybe use a bypass valve to control the cooling water flow through the PC.
This would let the pump operate with minimum restriction, while still letting you adjust the water flow through the PC.
Be advised the valve will work bassackwards compared to what's being used now.

[PalCabral]

Could it be a build up of stuff inside the PC?

[sadie33]

Mybe use a bypass valve to control the cooling water flow through the PC.
This would let the pump operate with minimum restriction, while still letting you adjust the water flow through the PC.
Be advised the valve will work bassackwards compared to what's being used now.

It seems to me that the more connections I add, the more chances of issues like I'm having now. I don't see how adding a bypass helps with the water flow any. Could you explain it a bit more? I understand the picture and how to do it, just not the why.

[sadie33]

Could it be a build up of stuff inside the PC?

hmmmmm, how would I know there was stuff inside? Funny thing is, I use a pressure canner for canning meats. The first thing I always do is check the valve to make sure I can see all the way thorough it. EVERY time I hook up my condenser, I look to see if I can see through it, knowing it doesn't work like that. But how would I know if there was junk in the tube itself? and if there is, how do I get it out?

[shadylane]

Pumps don't like having a restriction, the more there is the harder the pump has to work.
Using a bypass valve lets the pump to run with less restriction and at a high flow rate where it's happy.
When the valve is closed 100% of the pumps capacity flows through the PC.
As the valve is opened, flow is diverted from the PC and returned to the water tank.

[shadylane]

Could it be a build up of stuff inside the PC?

hmmmmm, how would I know there was stuff inside? Funny thing is, I use a pressure canner for canning meats. The first thing I always do is check the valve to make sure I can see all the way thorough it. EVERY time I hook up my condenser, I look to see if I can see through it, knowing it doesn't work like that. But how would I know if there was junk in the tube itself? and if there is, how do I get it out?

Turn the pump on and open your valve wide open. If lots of water is flowing out the PC then there's probably nothing plugged up.

[sadie33]

Pumps don't like having a restriction, the more there is the harder the pump has to work.
Using a bypass valve lets the pump to run with less restriction and at a high flow rate where it's happy.
When the valve is closed 100% of the pumps capacity flows through the PC.
As the valve is opened, flow is diverted from the PC and returned to the water tank.

ohhhhhh, I see what your saying, that does make sense. I was just about to run to the hardware store for supplies (I broke one of my clamps tightening it around the hose) Luckily it had a slot for a flathead so I could get it off.

This all got me to thinking about maintenance. How often do you guys replace the gaskets, hoses and all that stuff? Should I be adding oil to my gaskets like I do for my pressure cooker seals?

Hope it's okay to hijack my own thread.

[shadylane]

How often do you guys replace the gaskets, hoses and all that stuff? Should I be adding oil to my gaskets like I do for my pressure cooker seals?

I don't oil any of the gaskets unless it's needed to keep them in place during assembly.
I figure it doesn't make a difference on the seal since alcohol would dissolve oil almost instantly.
As to hoses, I change them out just before or sometimes after they start leaking.

[sadie33]

How often do you guys replace the gaskets, hoses and all that stuff? Should I be adding oil to my gaskets like I do for my pressure cooker seals?

I don't oil any of the gaskets unless it's needed to keep them in place during assembly.
I figure it doesn't make a difference on the seal since alcohol would dissolve oil almost instantly.
As to hoses, I change them out just before or sometimes after they start leaking.

Thanks, Shady. I kinda had a feeling that's what ppl do, but hadn't seen anything written about maintenance and was curious.

Also, about my original ?. Is my product going to be effected because I couldn't control the temp of the condenser? I remember when I got it I read that you didn't want to shock the vapors or something?

[Yummyrum]

It’s not going to noticeably affect your spirit Sadie .
It’s more about not having the output spurting and huffing .

[Saltbush Bill]

hmmmmm, how would I know there was stuff inside?

Keep it simple, blow through it, if its not hard to blow through there is unlikely to be any major restrictions.
Having the condenser cold at the bottom, and hot at the top is just the ideal way to run them.
Ive often run mine cold from top to bottom, the only difference is that you might experience a bit of huffing.
It wont make a scrap of difference to your final product.

[BigSwede]

Mybe use a bypass valve to control the cooling water flow through the PC.
This would let the pump operate with minimum restriction, while still letting you adjust the water flow through the PC.
Be advised the valve will work bassackwards compared to what's being used now.

My system uses a variation of Shady's and it works well. Let's see if I can describe it without a diagram...

Pump output goes into a manifold. You can find these in brass or aluminum for pneumatic tools and such. The manifold has outlet ports. One port goes to the condenser input. A second port has a valve on it, I use a ball valve. THAT port is simply recirculated/waste water, and sends water to a drain or reservoir. Any other manifold ports can be plugged.

In use, the pump is on 100% all the time. If the dump valve is open, little/no water goes to the condenser. Start closing the dump valve, water begins to flow to the condenser. By varying the dump valve, you change flow to the condenser.

This might be an issue for wasting water, but if used in any sort of recirculation system, no problems.

[30xs]

I tried a pond pump before. Head height of a pump means more than gph. If it will only lift 4’ and the condenser top is 4.5’ then it will just not flow. You may be right up against the max head height. I used a cheap clear poly line to test and could literally hold it open ended at eye level and watch the the water level just set there. Lower the end to chest level and it would flow. This was a cheap harbor freight rated at 9 foot head height. It definitely fell short. Those little pumps were rated fairly low on head height.