3 inch valve plate design

[Sungy]

Good day to ya all. Well I have been reading allot about distillation lately. Man can you guys build masterpieces,Tip of the protective headgear to you all, well done. I have been toying with valve design after reading about a post where a member drilled the sieve plates holes to large and it got me to thinking about this idea. Trying to learn more here from those who may have made one. Any way here is the concept.

3 inch type L copper column 6 plate spaced 5 inch apart with 9 inch long shotgun dephleg. 24 inch x 3/4 ID - 1 " OD leibig condensor

The penny's have to be older than 1984 US or Can.
The wire was 14 G
The hole size is 7/16. 7 holes per plate
valve max open is 3/16.
Over flow pipe is 3/8 ID
cup is 3/4 OD

So what do you think will it work?

[Bushman]

I have not built valve plates but you have a very creative idea; looks like you have incorporated several design ideas and the theory seems sound! Of course I have always gone by the fact that one test is worth a 1000 opinions, let us know how she performs!

[Bushman]

Just had another thought, our local Hardware store sells 12" x 12" copper sheets in different gauges, seems like that might be cheaper than trying to buy antique or older pennies that have all copper plus it gives you some flexibility on design.

[Prairiepiss]

Nice thinking. Looks good to. Curious how it will perform. Keep us updated.

[Sungy]

Thanks for the encouragement. Got piles of pennies kicking around. I'm just wondering if I have the hole sizes correct? Is there a formula for this sort of thing involving valve plates?

[emptyglass]

Should work. Might just want to make sure on the sealing side of the coin that the rim is clean and sits flat on your plate.

You could drill 3 holes in the coin, poke the wires through and solder the wires from the top side. This would help keep the rim clear of solder so it can seal.

[LWTCS]

+1 on Rocks concerns.
hopefully the pressure on each side of the valve (s) will act as a self regulator and only allow the valve to rise just enough.

Will be too bad if it doesn't work cuz your system is clever. And BTW,,,what the heck is wrong with you?
Good luck and cheers.
Larry

[Sungy]

Well I guess I should show some more of what I'm up to. I started to fabricate the valves and plates today. I used 2 inch type L and grooved it with a tubing cutter to mark it, then used a jigsaw to cut the pipe length wise. placed the pieces on at a time between two plates of steel and squished in the vice. Then a little tap tap tap and there almost flat. Dang this just might work....The small pipe is scrap and will be replaced with nice shiny new stuff when I make the real ones. This is only the prototype for testing purposes. The band is an idea used for boiler vent pipe scaled down of course. I think the pipe pieces need to be 3/8 and the strap just a bit wider. I'm thinking of 2 bolts on each stack band. The pipe is going to have an insert in it that will help with alignment and strength. For the insert I was thinking of a piece of 3" slit length wise compress with a gear clamp and insert in pipe then solder. Just thinkin out loud again....

Now to over come the sight glass thingggy....and the .....condensor thingggy.....awe crumbsss im going for a beer......

[emptyglass]

.....awe crumbsss im going for a beer......

Well that won't get it done.

Most of my gear has been made from scrap and/or recovered copper. I use new weldments, as old ones are more work to reclaim than they are worth.

One option is to soak all your bits in a tub of vinegar. Theres usually heaps of time between cutting a part and soldering it. Nice gentle way that wont burn your flesh.
Hydrocloric, Sulfuric and Nitric acids work quick, but they need to be used with appropriate caution.
Or just physicaly clean it.

Nothing wrong with second hand copper if its cleaned well.

[Sungy]

Well I'm back again. Fabricated some blank plates for the defleg....4 end plates for the defleg to be exact. Two extra so that i can get the flow to change side to side in the condenser. 3 pass design. I will post pics when I start on it.
Man do I wish I had some of those fancy tools some of our members have access too. Nothing but the basics on this build.
Got the first plate done ... just 5 more to go.....
Made a change to the layout to accommodate the hanger rod. Still have to pick that up so the pics just show a 1/4 inch bolt for now.
The valves have 1 mill. clearance and 1/2 inch hole. The overflow is 15 mill. I also added a 3/4 ring around the plate for liquid re-tension. I hope it will keep the liquid on the plate rather than have it roll down the side wall of the column.
I am planning 4 1/2 inch spacing between plates and overflow trap will hang a 1/2 inch above the plate.
I filled the plate with water and it took about 45 seconds to drip out. Not bad considering there is no vapor pushing the liquid back.
Well I know I like looking at the pics so here are a few more.
The plates where cut with a 3 1/2 grinder with a 1/16 stainless steel blade. Then mounted on a bolt and placed into a drill. Spin and file down. Not fancy but it worked.
Got a few hours left before the family returns home, so back to beers and building
be back soon with more progress reports.

[NcHooch]

Very cool. Can't wait to hear about the test!

[Sungy]

Me too...Its my first build so I'm a little slow at this. I love working with copper.
Well back to the shop....

[LWTCS]

Sungy,
Yer done ,,,yer cooked,,,,yer an internet likker geek and hardly outta the gate.....

[Sungy]

Ever since M.A.S.H. I have wanted to build a still and back then I was only 14. Thought it was cool lookin. Now I love the challenge of designing and modding some of the great projects on this forum. WOW a Scientific Hobby with benefits..... I love this hobby.

Water purification is great ehhhhh.....

[LWTCS]

Its addicting for sure. Hard to find a good hobby that pays dividends on multiple levels!
Best hobby ever.

[emptyglass]

You sure you're not from Queensland, Ehhh??

[bentstick]

Sungy You have been assimilated no sense in fighting it. The only fix for it is more ferments, more stillin, and more builds. Looking good lets us know what happens when ya put heat to it.

[Sungy]

Sungy You have been assimilated no sense in fighting it.

I hope at least it was 7 of 9 ........graaalllaaa..( Homer Simpson type of drooling sound. )

Well I have been working on a 3 pass, 7 barrel shot gun condenser. I hope it will help distribute the water flow better through the condenser.
note the slot in the 2nd and 3rd plates for the water flow. the 2 ,3 plates cause the water to zig-zag through the condenser , should get even condensing I hope. Next is to internally enhance the vapor tubes with a flattened piece of 3/8 copper tubing that is twisted into a spiral. That should spin the vapor as it rises getting more contact with the tubes. The water in and out tubes have not been attached yet, just sort a sittin there.
I rolled the edges of the valve plate I made to get a perfect friction fit. The base of the tray is a few thou undersized to make it easy to install and the lip of the tray is now the column internal size. Looks like the keg is going to be the bitch to get here in Ontario. Oh well I will find one eventually.


Hope you like the pics.

[acfixer69]

Going to post this with all do respect to a newbe thought process. This condensers job is to fill the top plate and all following plates will fill from overflow. After that just hold the equalization of the column and this takes very little soooo smallest water volume in condenser reacts faster or better. When the water flow is throttled back you want a response from the condenser to happen asap.
Hope this makes sence

AC

[Sungy]

Going to post this with all do respect to a newbe thought process. This condensers job is to fill the top plate and all following plates will fill from overflow. After that just hold the equalization of the column and this takes very little soooo smallest water volume in condenser reacts faster or better. When the water flow is throttled back you want a response from the condenser to happen asap.
Hope this makes sence

It sure does. Thanks for your input as Im new to distillation........ old hand at consuming...

If I got this right...... The intention of the two interior plates is to force the entering water to distribute evenly at the bottom 1/3 of the condenser where it can then drop and be used to fill the top plate.
It should be able to knock down the vapor on warm up then be throttled well back to allow for some vapor to then pass the condenser for secondary condensing and collection.

Or are you saying that I over killed it. It would be easy to make is smaller or even a secondary tap on bottom of column on the other side below the upper one.

[acfixer69]

This is mine in a 4" plated column 5" long with 6 3/4' tubes. Does it all with 2 4500 watts cooking it

AC

[acfixer69]

Yes to both.

It is a disadvantage being too large ....When is the last time you heard that. Small enough to handle the job is best.
AC

[Sungy]

Do you think this would work? By closing the enter water and draining water form the top 2 sections I can air lock the top two sections and open the entering water valve and run on the bottom section only. This would have loads less cooling water in use. If needed I can open the next upper level valve and expand my condenser.
What do you guys think?

[acfixer69]

Dont get too hell bent on what i posted. Yours will work and You will be building more. you know it too. Its just months from now some other newbe will see yours and do it agin if they dont see it now and here. your ok and there is so much more to learn. Forward march.

AC

[emptyglass]

AC's right.

You dont want too much water/coolant in there, just enough.

Mine has 1 more tube and is 1/2" longer than AC's, it works good.

Don't get hung up on flow patterns inside it, they work themselfs out.

Good work, regardless.

[Sungy]

Well here is the modified dephleg. It has one inlet and 2 outlets. There are 4 plates making it 3 passes. They will be pipped to valves for condenser size control (two pipes or right). ( fancy way of saying I Fuggered it and made the damb thing to biggg) A correction I hope will still give me tight control of dephleg ( 60% - 100% of full capacity depending on what take off I use). There will be 3/8 needle valve on inlet for fine control. If needed I can put a bypass around the control valve for full flow during warm up (to knock down anything I might wanna throw at it) . That way I don't have to adjust the control valve very much.

7 barrel 60 40 dephleg.jpg

Just a quick pic to show ya what I'm up ta...

[Sungy]

Been in the shop again. I took a few pics. of the plate manufacturing process. There might be better ways but I didn't think of them.

did the same method with the rings soldered on to shine them up.

And finally some plates with the ring soldered on and fitted to the column inside measure.

Cant wait for this to be completed. I'm starting to get excited.... more to come.

[puffy_vw]

Nice Canada penny

lol

great idéa!

[emptyglass]

Looking good dude.

Some of the penny's look like they are overlapping. I guess its just because its sideways.
I can't help thinking they are a little close. There is the risk they may jam, but that can be mitigated with tight manufacture, but there is not much room for the vapor between the pennys.
I'm worried that vapor from one penny will interfere with sealing of the next. I guess you will know if the plates dont hold liquid.

[Sungy]

Well here is what I have been up to lately. My valve plates are done. I still have to work out the sight glasses yet.

The assembled plate tree.

The top end

The mock up of the rig.

The product condenser is 32 inches over all length. The inner tube ( 1/2 inch )is wound with a 12 gauge wire for turbulence on the water side and will have a twisted strip of copper down the middle. The outside is 3/4 inch.

Well what do you think so far?