Rookie questions

[Uncle Geer]

I am currently in the process of making Hard Cider. The fermenting has begun. Does this mean I sterilized everything correctly or will time only tell? When I sanitize my equipment the directions say not to rinse afterward but there are visible traces of it remaining. Is this bad? I'm a little confused on how I know it's time to start the second phase of my endevour. Is there such thing as waiting too long after the airlock has stopped bubbling? At this point to convert it to Applejack does anyone have any suggestions on distilling? Does freeze distilling work better than a stovetop still? If so why? Thanks for any responses.

[Aidas]

I am currently in the process of making Hard Cider. The fermenting has begun. Does this mean I sterilized everything correctly or will time only tell?

Only time time will tell. But activity is generally a good sign.

When I sanitize my equipment the directions say not to rinse afterward but there are visible traces of it remaining. Is this bad?

What were you using? Visible traces? Campden tablets? Bleach? There's nothing wrong with rinsing with clean water.

I'm a little confused on how I know it's time to start the second phase of my endevour. Is there such thing as waiting too long after the airlock has stopped bubbling?

Yes, there is. However, a friend just ran a number of calvados runs from cider washes that have been sitting (seriously) since the fall of 2006. No problems.

At this point to convert it to Applejack does anyone have any suggestions on distilling?

And you've come to this forum why?

Does freeze distilling work better than a stovetop still? If so why? Thanks for any responses.

No, it doesn't.

Uncle Geer -- first, I hope that the name is not a feeble attempt to copy UJ, our fearless leader. Second, you really need to read the parent site and read some more on this forum. Your questions are facile. When you read some more, and get at least a basic understanding about what's going on, you'll be embarrased you asked these questions.

Sorry for the harshness, but you need to do some work... otherwise you're just leeching.

Aidas

[new_moonshiner]

nice reply Aidas .polite but to the point ..

[Jameson Beam]

I am currently in the process of making Hard Cider. The fermenting has begun. Does this mean I sterilized everything correctly or will time only tell? When I sanitize my equipment the directions say not to rinse afterward but there are visible traces of it remaining. Is this bad? I'm a little confused on how I know it's time to start the second phase of my endevour. Is there such thing as waiting too long after the airlock has stopped bubbling? At this point to convert it to Applejack does anyone have any suggestions on distilling? Does freeze distilling work better than a stovetop still? If so why? Thanks for any responses.

Hi Uncle,

And welcome aboard. This is a great forum (aside from snide remarks).

Since all of us being "newbies" at one point, after all this is the "Novice Distillers section", I can understand your confusion (even though some people here dont seem to remember that part ). Making applejack is a bit different then makin the UJSM 'shine' or "white lightning" or "corn whiskey" as we call it here down south (since it cant be called a true wiskey or sour mash - ie Bourbon or Tenessee sour mash whiskey - since sugar is added). Theres alot of good info on these topics in Tony's Home Distillers main site - http://homedistiller.org/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Applejack is more of a wine then a whiskey or brandy. It depends whether you want to make applejack - which is a fortified apple wine or a calvados - which is a distilled apple brandy.

First, keeping utensils clean at all times is of utmost importance. Wash with hot water before and after each use. (Cleanliness is next to Godliness)

Second, if you dont have a hydrometer, the best way to tell when the must is done is by tasting it. If it tastes sweet - then its not done. If it tastes dry and a bit acidic - then its done.

Being an ol' time applejack maker - i used the traditional method - back in me college days, we would take the must, put it in 1 gallon old jugs and freeze it. Then turn them upside down in a bucket and let drain till just the ice was left. This increased the alcohol (abv) by almost 2 fold. My college friends really got a "kick" out of that hehe. While we never let the stuff age per say, its better to keep it in a airlocked secondary fermenter for 3 to 6 months or more (if ya can wait ) with some oak chips to age for a while.

If your going the 'Calvados" brandy route, aging is not necessary before you distill it (even though i still - pun intended - use the freezing method to increase the abv before distilling).

Just freeze it first then distill. This saves some water space in your still and gives a stronger distillate (if i assume your using a pot still).

You can then age it with some oak chips in glass.

Anyways good luck and have fun.

Vino es Veritas,
Jim

[Uncle Geer]

Thanks for the response and information. I was a little turned off by the first response I recieved. Anyway...

Applejack is more of a wine then a whiskey or brandy. It depends whether you want to make applejack - which is a fortified apple wine or a calvados - which is a distilled apple brandy.

I want to make both. I have 18 gallons of cider in the works right now. Which do you prefer?

While we never let the stuff age per say, its better to keep it in a airlocked secondary fermenter for 3 to 6 months or more (if ya can wait ) with some oak chips to age for a while.

Since I've already started the fermenting process it's probably not a good idea to take off the airlock and add oak chips now, right? Should I add them from the start on my next batch or is this only done when fermenting has finished? Even I'm a little embarassed about asking these questions but I'm as new as a newbie can be right now.
Any suggestions on where to aquire a good, reletively inexpensive stovetop still? I don't own soldering equipment and never have soldered anything before. I'd rather just buy one.
Thanks
Geer

[Jameson Beam]

"I want to make both. I have 18 gallons of cider in the works right now. Which do you prefer?
Since I've already started the fermenting process it's probably not a good idea to take off the airlock and add oak chips now, right? Should I add them from the start on my next batch or is this only done when fermenting has finished? Even I'm a little embarassed about asking these questions but I'm as new as a newbie can be right now.
Any suggestions on where to aquire a good, reletively inexpensive stovetop still? I don't own soldering equipment and never have soldered anything before. I'd rather just buy one.
Thanks
Geer

Thanks for the response and information. I was a little turned off by the first response I recieved. Anyway...

Nope, dont add the wood chips till after fermentation is finished. Rack the must as stated earlier by freezing. Then put it in an airlocked fermenter to age with the wood chips.

I wouldn't start off buying your first still - its much easier, cheaper and more fun to make it - the way I did.

The most simplest design to start with, which requires no soldering at all - just some drilling - is something like this:

http://www11.asphost4free.com/JamesonBe ... _Still.gif" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Some short cuts i have found is using old 5/8" pieces of garden hose to make flexible couplings. (fits perfectly around 1/2" copper pipe for air tight fit.

Also if your to lazy to make a coiled "worm" for you condenser, just get an old 5 - 6 gallon beer cooler and drill a 1/2" hole at bottom and 1/2" hole at top. Then run a straight through "shotgun" 1/2" copper pipe through from top to bottom and seal with plummers putty. Fill with Ice Water every so often or put in an inlet tube and outlet tube to and from your sink - and volia - a condenser...

Vino es Veritas,
Jim.

[Tater]

"I want to make both. I have 18 gallons of cider in the works right now. Which do you prefer?
Since I've already started the fermenting process it's probably not a good idea to take off the airlock and add oak chips now, right? Should I add them from the start on my next batch or is this only done when fermenting has finished? Even I'm a little embarassed about asking these questions but I'm as new as a newbie can be right now.
Any suggestions on where to aquire a good, reletively inexpensive stovetop still? I don't own soldering equipment and never have soldered anything before. I'd rather just buy one.
Thanks
Geer

Thanks for the response and information. I was a little turned off by the first response I recieved. Anyway...

Nope, dont add the wood chips till after fermentation is finished. Rack the must as stated earlier by freezing. Then put it in an airlocked fermenter to age with the wood chips.

I wouldn't start off buying your first still - its much easier, cheaper and more fun to make it - the way I did.

The most simplest design to start with, which requires no soldering at all - just some drilling - is something like this:

http://www11.asphost4free.com/JamesonBe ... _Still.gif" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Some short cuts i have found is using old 5/8" pieces of garden hose to make flexible couplings. (fits perfectly around 1/2" copper pipe for air tight fit.

Also if your to lazy to make a coiled "worm" for you condenser, just get an old 5 - 6 gallon beer cooler and drill a 1/2" hole at bottom and 1/2" hole at top. Then run a straight through "shotgun" 1/2" copper pipe through from top to bottom and seal with plummers putty. Fill with Ice Water every so often or put in an inlet tube and outlet tube to and from your sink - and volia - a condenser...

Vino es Veritas,
Jim.

I wouldn't recommend using silicone or garden hose in vapor path of any still and wouldn't knowing drink any product made that way.my 2 cents

[wineo]

Plastics in your drink,
Will make your privates shrink!

[Jameson Beam]

Tater wrote:

I wouldn't recommend using silicone or garden hose in vapor path of any still and wouldn't knowing drink any product made that way.my 2 cents

Dont worry - they fit copper to copper - no rubber is in the vapor path . Me knows a bit better - but for quick take down - aka "the disappearing still" from The Alaskan Distiller, they work great.

Vino es Veritas,
Jim.

[Aidas]

Jameson,

Garden hose, rubber bung, silicone caulking... your diagram of a still has all sorts of problems... If the copper fits copper to copper, what do you need garden hose for? Decoration? Yes, this time I'm being snide...

BTW, apple jack is NOT fortified wine. Fortified, is, by definition, wine that has add alcohol ADDED to it. Jacking something adds nothing...

Anyway, it's "great" that someone wants to give poor advice to newbies. Go nuts... I will continue to give sound advice coupled with exhortations to read, and not just the Alaskan Distiller

Aidas

[alice]

Some short cuts i have found is using old 5/8" pieces of garden hose to make flexible couplings

Hmm, I think i might continue taking the long way round rather than risk your short cuts. Thanks all the same.

[Jameson Beam]

Jameson,

Garden hose, rubber bung, silicone caulking... your diagram of a still has all sorts of problems... If the copper fits copper to copper, what do you need garden hose for? Decoration? Yes, this time I'm being snide...

BTW, apple jack is NOT fortified wine. Fortified, is, by definition, wine that has add alcohol ADDED to it. Jacking something adds nothing...

Anyway, it's "great" that someone wants to give poor advice to newbies. Go nuts... I will continue to give sound advice coupled with exhortations to read, and not just the Alaskan Distiller

Aidas

Ummm sorry Mon Ami,

But that isnt my design - its from Tony's Home Distiller's main site --

http://homedistiller.org/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow --- just like Tater always recommends.

Go look under still designs and tell him that, before all the newbies start following 'his' poor advice. And as said before, the coupling connects copper to copper with no rubber in the vapor path and are for quick take down and cleaning.

The silicone if done right, should just fit around the rim - not inside the still (same as the bungy cords) - and just like the rubber gasket on a pressure cooker... Or do you not recommend all these people using pressure cookers now?

You are right about fortified wine - I should have said 'like' a fortified wine - sorry - forgot the 'like' - even though jacking does increase the alcohol to upwards of 20% - just like adding alcohol to a fortified wine. Its not a question of adding - its a question of subtracting (water) - just like distilling the alcohol to add to the "fortified wine".

And BTW "The Alaskan Distiller" is a well known and highly read reference....

Vino es Veritas,
Jim.

[goose eye]

id go gentle on some advice.
if they dont no nothin how they gonna no where vaper path is

im with aidas with some on his questions. there a sticky bout plastic outfits
where he posted bout a plastic outfit.

[Jameson Beam]

id go gentle on some advice.
if they dont no nothin how they gonna no where vaper path is

im with aidas with some on his questions. there a sticky bout plastic outfits
where he posted bout a plastic outfit.

Yes im sorry, The vapor path is any point at which the alcohol vapors pass through the still, still head, lyne arme (if using a pot still - not reflux) and condenser to the output spout - which should all be of stainless steel or copper / tubing. Bad of me not to be explicit enough. I should probably go back and clarify in the New stills posting where I also mentioned the same things...

Thanks,
Vino es Veritas,
Jim.

[Aidas]

Jameson,

I can see now that there's just no point in wasting my breath... In fact, I recommend you use that design, and drink the product.

Cheers. Try not to kill any newbies along the way.

Aidas

p.s. It's Alaskan Bootlegger's bible, if I recall correctly... anyway, after reading tons of stuff out there, including the parent site, I find that information and advice from the sage experts on this forum beats everything. I note that not all forum members offer sage advice -- this thread is a perfect example.

[Tater]

Jameson,

Garden hose, rubber bung, silicone caulking... your diagram of a still has all sorts of problems... If the copper fits copper to copper, what do you need garden hose for? Decoration? Yes, this time I'm being snide...

BTW, apple jack is NOT fortified wine. Fortified, is, by definition, wine that has add alcohol ADDED to it. Jacking something adds nothing...

Anyway, it's "great" that someone wants to give poor advice to newbies. Go nuts... I will continue to give sound advice coupled with exhortations to read, and not just the Alaskan Distiller

Aidas

Ummm sorry Mon Ami,

But that isnt my design - its from Tony's Home Distiller's main site --

http://homedistiller.org/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow --- just like Tater always recommends.

Go look under still designs and tell him that, before all the newbies start following 'his' poor advice. And as said before, the coupling connects copper to copper with no rubber in the vapor path and are for quick take down and cleaning.

The silicone if done right, should just fit around the rim - not inside the still (same as the bungy cords) - and just like the rubber gasket on a pressure cooker... Or do you not recommend all these people using pressure cookers now?

You are right about fortified wine - I should have said 'like' a fortified wine - sorry - forgot the 'like' - even though jacking does increase the alcohol to upwards of 20% - just like adding alcohol to a fortified wine. Its not a question of adding - its a question of subtracting (water) - just like distilling the alcohol to add to the "fortified wine".

And BTW "The Alaskan Distiller" is a well known and highly read reference....

Vino es Veritas,
Jim.

Yes I do recommend reading tonys sight but I don't post using unsound practices . And agin I wouldnt recommend rubber /silcone in vapor path in any still pressure cooker or not and yes it is in vapor path in a pressure cooker NEWBIES THIS SHOULD BE A LESSON TO YOU > TAKE NO ADVISE AS GOSPEL FROM ANYONE DO SOME RESEARCH AND MAKE INFORMED DECISIONS ABOUT WHAT GOES INTO YOUR STILLS .

[inspeedway]

i thought about using rtv to seal
my 10 inch mixing bowl gasket
to the 15.5 gal. kegger,
i use it to chualk windows to
anything automotive, it would
have to be good huh????
so i got some out and read it,
this is from work before i retired
best u can buy!!!!!
this is what i says!!!
-----------------------------------
dow corning rtv sealant,
732 multi-purpose sealant,
*100% silicone rubbe
*resist weathering,ozone,vibration.
*forms long lasting flexible seal.
*extreme temperature performance.
-----------------------------------

here is the caution on the back side!

------------------------------------

CAUTION: may cause eye irration,
may cause sking irration,
may cause respiratory tract
irration, avoid contact with
eyes do not handle contact lens
with product on hands - avoid
contact with skin and clothing
avoid breathing VAPOR
use with adequate ventilation

-------------------------------------

think i will use another type of
gasket,seal ----

[Ricky]

flour and water! best thing since sliced bread.

[blanikdog]

NEWBIES THIS SHOULD BE A LESSON TO YOU > TAKE NO ADVISE AS GOSPEL FROM ANYONE DO SOME RESEARCH AND MAKE INFORMED DECISIONS ABOUT WHAT GOES INTO YOUR STILLS .

Bloody well said, tater. Thorough personal research is always the best, even if it is a bit slower and involves a bit of work.

blanik

[Uncle Jesse]

No rubber, no plastic, no silicone. How many times do we have to rehash the basics of safety? Too often, unfortunately.

And "pressure cooker" is a misleading term. If you're bringing your boiler or column under actually pressure while you're distilling then you're treading on thin ice.

[goose eye]

jameson pint gave his nod to you which mean you a smart man an
is to be held to a higher standard than some folks. ifin you cant
handle the presure rake the coals back. i been round this all my life
- i aint never run no likker an dont plan to in the future - but what i no
dont mean much with all these new ways. if there a ify way of doin somethin let em find it on there on.
your job as a ole likker dick is to help an not hurt. them folks with books
there job is makein money

vaper path starts right off the wine/beer. think youll see that is underlid
in presure cooker

so im tole

[Still_Crazy]

No rubber, no plastic, no silicone. How many times do we have to rehash the basics of safety? Too often, unfortunately.

And "pressure cooker" is a misleading term. If you're bringing your boiler or column under actually pressure while you're distilling then you're treading on thin ice.

A'men UJ, I firmly believe in the power of flour!
Jiffy biscuit mix, a teaspoon at a time whipped with a spoon of warm water. It seals anything and everything i.e. connection to boiler, connections on column (depending on still configuration), temperature probe or thermometer port, etc.

Best way to avoid disappointment, avoid the possibility period.