Beer Kegs

[Binkmaneod]

I have noticed that some people use beer kegs as boilers. I thought these were aluminum. I also thought that it was not good to use aluminum as a boiler. Please clarify anyone that can because I have access to a keg and would like to use it as a boiler.

Thanks

[olddog]

Some are aluminium, some are stainless steel, only use stainless for your still as aluminium will pit when boiling alcohol.

[dixiedrifter]

If its a 15.5 gallon keg, has a "Bud" or other american label on it, and it weighs in at around 30lbs empty (make sure you drain it of course before you weigh it) you can pretty much bet its 304 stainless steel.

[Hawke]

Most kegs will have a stamping on the center bottom. If it has 304 or 304L stamped there, it's stainless. Due to the aluminum/health scare of the early 80's, most kegs went stainless.

[Binkmaneod]

Thanks for the info. I will check that out today.

[eternalfrost]

also, if its aluminum, youll be able to cut through it like butter but SS will take 4.32 years

[Q-bIc]

stealing the thread a bit...

i thought all 50L keg in Australia was stainless, or am i wrong ?

[Ugly]

I've seen aluminum kegs in the EU but never in NA or Aus. The bottom will likely be stamped 304L

[FeralPig]

also, if its aluminum, youll be able to cut through it like butter but SS will take 4.32 years

Should be a law against cutting the keg. I had so much trouble on my first still (reflux) because I cut a hole in the top. Sealing is a bit of a pain and mounting the column to the stainless dog bowl was a bitch. Should have listened and used an unmodified keg with the tri-clover clamp and fitting. I did do that on my second still (pot) and it is much easier to prepare and run and not too much trouble to clean.

[eternalfrost]

also, if its aluminum, youll be able to cut through it like butter but SS will take 4.32 years

Should be a law against cutting the keg. I had so much trouble on my first still (reflux) because I cut a hole in the top. Sealing is a bit of a pain and mounting the column to the stainless dog bowl was a bitch. Should have listened and used an unmodified keg with the tri-clover clamp and fitting. I did do that on my second still (pot) and it is much easier to prepare and run and not too much trouble to clean.

I totally agree, triclover right to the sankey is the best way and what i use. I was more referring to cutting a hole for an internal electric element.

[goinbroke2]

also, if its aluminum, youll be able to cut through it like butter but SS will take 4.32 years

Should be a law against cutting the keg. I had so much trouble on my first still (reflux) because I cut a hole in the top. Sealing is a bit of a pain and mounting the column to the stainless dog bowl was a bitch. Should have listened and used an unmodified keg with the tri-clover clamp and fitting. I did do that on my second still (pot) and it is much easier to prepare and run and not too much trouble to clean.

I second that!! Tri-clovers ROCK!

[punkin]

also, if its aluminum, youll be able to cut through it like butter but SS will take 4.32 years

Should be a law against cutting the keg. I had so much trouble on my first still (reflux) because I cut a hole in the top. Sealing is a bit of a pain and mounting the column to the stainless dog bowl was a bitch. Should have listened and used an unmodified keg with the tri-clover clamp and fitting. I did do that on my second still (pot) and it is much easier to prepare and run and not too much trouble to clean.

You go your way and i'll go mine, but i love having a four inch hole in the top of my pot still. Just cause you are happy with the way you clamp to your keg doesn't mean it's superior.

You don't need a dog bowl or anything else as ghetto as that either when they make parts for sealing 4" holes...

coppamate1.jpg (51.08 KiB) Viewed 8054 times

[dixiedrifter]

Nice thing about those tri-clovers is you can weld in a 6 or even 8 inch ferrule on top and just cut it out with a plasma cutter and your just as good.

[FeralPig]

"You go your way and i'll go mine, but i love having a four inch hole in the top of my pot still. Just cause you are happy with the way you clamp to your keg doesn't mean it's superior.

You don't need a dog bowl or anything else as ghetto as that either when they make parts for sealing 4" holes..."

I wasn't really saying the clamp is superior over all other options...just the stainless bowl idea (based on my experience building both). I generally remind folks of my novice status when I post...and as such, I am sure there are numerous ways to attach the column that I am completely unaware of...The picture you posted looks like a solid way to do it. I wish I had tried that on my first still. To be honest, I did see someones post using that method but I couldn't/didn't find the adapter.

Some of us just prefer our holes a little smaller than others

ghetto...that is funny

[punkin]

Nice thing about those tri-clovers is you can weld in a 6 or even 8 inch ferrule on top and just cut it out with a plasma cutter and your just as good.

Yep, a hundred ways to skin this cat.

[bourbonbob]

I use a keg for my worm condenser, I cut a hole about 8" diameter for my boiler and used the peice I cut out the condenser keg as the the boiler top. I didn't weld the the 2" pipe to the top, flour paste is all that is needed. You could easily build a still without weld/solder, the only weld on mine is where the worm exits the keg but that could be replaced with compression fittings.