converting to electric

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fatman
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converting to electric

Post by fatman »

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10000W-220v-Adj ... 2c7271bb5a" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
I have read like 12 pages on converti g to electric, is Jimbos conversion a good one to do?
Are these good to use withh 5500 watt elements?
Sorry havent been on for while.
woodshed
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Re: converting to electric

Post by woodshed »

If it came from the mind of Jimbo you can be sure it is a good direction. If Woodshed Distilling was big enough and I could hire anybody it would be him. Get a couple of his recipes to market. Have that pool of creativity to dive into on a regular basis. Priceless.
Oh yea, and he might let me play "ol blackie" :think:
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bellybuster
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Re: converting to electric

Post by bellybuster »

Quite a few folks using that very controller.
fatman
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Re: converting to electric

Post by fatman »

All righty then, not a lot of comments on that, dead horse I suppose?

But how about the type of element you stick in your boiler? I know how some like to rip on everyone for even the mention of using plastics, brass, steel, basically anything but copper or stainless. And I understand that, its a no-no!

Im probably going to use the Camco 5500w, 240 v bolt in element. But what is the difference in the black looking elements and the silver colored ones?
Just curious, in the 150 pages of threads/replies, I have read I didn't recall any mention as to what type of metal I would be introducing into my boiler with a water heater element?
raven_r_one
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Re: converting to electric

Post by raven_r_one »

I'm no expert but it may be the difference between a high density vs. a low density element.

The low density are typically darker and folded back on themselves (more surface area vs less surface area and a higher temp).

My guess is also the high density ones will also lead to scorching.
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S-Cackalacky
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Re: converting to electric

Post by S-Cackalacky »

I would say that the best element for our purposes is the Camco 220V 5500W ULWD (Ultra Low Watt Density). It's the fold back wavy shaped one. Just be sure to measure the diameter of your boiler to make sure it will fit.

That controller is the same one I use. I run mine on 120V and have had no problems. It's generally recommended that you replace the heatsink and be sure to use some heatsink paste. Even if you don't switch out the heatsink. Remove the SCR chip and apply (or reapply) some heatsink paste. These Chinese controllers are notorious for being assembled without any paste.

Good luck with your build and +1 on following Jimbo's build thread.
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The KYChemist
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Re: converting to electric

Post by The KYChemist »

I was going to write a post extolling the virtues of my SCR controller, but I pretty much already did that on the last page of Jimbo's thread. Also, I feel he is a stand up guy, who answered any question I had. Im glad I found his thread, as I was sourcing parts for an SSR controller. The SCR just seemed easier.
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raven_r_one
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Re: converting to electric

Post by raven_r_one »

Cackalacky - you run the 5500 watt on on 120v?

I've only got access to 120v (for now), I forget the calculations - would the output of the 5500 be the same as the 1500 watt one I have? I'm fine with much less output because the 5500 watt one protrudes so much further.

Suggestions?
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Re: converting to electric

Post by Prairiepiss »

A 5500w 220v element on 110v would be roughly 1375w. + or - due to voltage variances.
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raven_r_one
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Re: converting to electric

Post by raven_r_one »

I'm sure you're right, but:
http://www.supercircuits.com/resources/ ... -converter" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Suggests closer to 1600 watts - how did you calculate that?
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Jimbo
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Re: converting to electric

Post by Jimbo »

Its a 240V element not 220. Math looks like this. P=power, I=current, V= voltage, R = resistance

Power = VI, so I = P/V = 5500/240 = 22.92 amps

R=V/I = 240/22.92 = 10.47 ohms

SO,... since I = V/R, and resistance of the element doesnt change. At 120 I= 120/10.47 = 11.46Amps

FInally, P= (120)(11.46) = 1375 watts
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raven_r_one
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Re: converting to electric

Post by raven_r_one »

Is there a calculator for that somewhere?
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Jimbo
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Re: converting to electric

Post by Jimbo »

google ohms law calculators.
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raven_r_one
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Re: converting to electric

Post by raven_r_one »

I'm sorry to the original poster to have seemingly hijacked this thread :/

Is it worth it to use the 5500 watt element knowing it will run cooler than the 1500 watt one (the 5500 watt one will reach way further into the kettle)?

Also, if I opted for the 5500 watt element and run at 120, that really won't draw more than 15 amps?

(Trying really hard digest all this)
bellybuster
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Re: converting to electric

Post by bellybuster »

ohm's law doesn't lie.

There is a benefit to usingg the 240 volt element. It has huge surface area compared to the 120volt one so scorching will be non existent. Yes it will be a tad slower to heat up but it also gives you the ability to upgrade later to 240 volts.
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