Shotgun Design
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- Swill Maker
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Shotgun Design
Can a shotgun style condenser have to many tubes?
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- Master of Distillation
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Re: Shotgun Design
if it interrupts the water flow or has too thin of water flow around the tubes, yes
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Re: Shotgun Design
Couldn't one adjust the the inlet flow/pressure to accommodate less dead space? I was looking to build one with 11 3/8s tubes in 2 inch pipe.bellybuster wrote:if it interrupts the water flow or has too thin of water flow around the tubes, yes
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Re: Shotgun Design
I drew it out on my cad and it will work however the more pipes the more solder the more work, why not go with 1/2" and use fewer pipes?
- pfshine
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Re: Shotgun Design
I made mine with nine 3/8" tubes in it. Let me tell you it can take damn near anything you can throw at it.
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- DAD300
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Re: Shotgun Design
It can have too many tubes.
If they are too small they will clog and spit.
If they are too close there will not be enough water flow/mass around them.
And, the ability to put them inside the shell will be limited by your welding/soldering ability or equipment.
Most commercial 2" shotguns have 7- 3/8" tubes and 12" -20" in length.
If your worried about power handling, just add to the length.
If they are too small they will clog and spit.
If they are too close there will not be enough water flow/mass around them.
And, the ability to put them inside the shell will be limited by your welding/soldering ability or equipment.
Most commercial 2" shotguns have 7- 3/8" tubes and 12" -20" in length.
If your worried about power handling, just add to the length.
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- shadylane
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Re: Shotgun Design
Four was too many 3 was just right. 1/2" tubes inside a 29 inch long, 1-1/2" jacket.
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Re: Shotgun Design
I have no real reason to use 11 3/8s other than I have them and the fit pretty nice in 2". There should be an 1/8" min around every tube by my measurements. Tiging an extra 3 or 4 tubes at this point is really no extra time.
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Re: Shotgun Design
Does anyone have some real life specs on what a 2" pc with 7 3/8s tubes will knock down?
- pfshine
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Re: Shotgun Design
That depends on how long it is. If it were 1'-6" then you would have 148.44 square inches of cooling. That would knock down 5000 watts easy.
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Re: Shotgun Design
Here is what i ended up building a 24" x 2" with 7 3/8s tubes. Is there anything else i should add before sticking her together?
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Re: Shotgun Design
Is that stainless?? DIY - Wow - nice!
I'd add a strike-mark like you would find for timing an engine - on the edge of both tube plates on the same tube.
That'll help you keep the tubes straight.
If the tubes are twisted, it might restrict the cooling waters.
I am now running a stainless shotgun - I will say that it seems to drive a bit different from my copper liebig - not bad, just different.
Aqua.

I'd add a strike-mark like you would find for timing an engine - on the edge of both tube plates on the same tube.
That'll help you keep the tubes straight.
If the tubes are twisted, it might restrict the cooling waters.
I am now running a stainless shotgun - I will say that it seems to drive a bit different from my copper liebig - not bad, just different.
Aqua.
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Re: Shotgun Design
Yep, all stainless. i have thought about twisting the ends to make some turbulence to improve cooling. Was just a thought tho.aquavita wrote:Is that stainless?? DIY - Wow - nice!![]()
I'd add a strike-mark like you would find for timing an engine - on the edge of both tube plates on the same tube.
That'll help you keep the tubes straight.
If the tubes are twisted, it might restrict the cooling waters.
I am now running a stainless shotgun - I will say that it seems to drive a bit different from my copper liebig - not bad, just different.
Aqua.
- The KYChemist
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Re: Shotgun Design
I'm sure it will become clear, as you post more pics, but what are your plans for the takeoff? From where I sit, it looks like you used two tri-clamp end caps for end plates. With a shoulder machined on the outside, in order to fit into the main body of the shot-gun. What are you going to connect to the output side, for the take-off? Two ferrules welded up, spool style, with another end cap with a hole drilled in it? I'm curious to see. Good idea on the end caps. Probablly saves a bunch of weight. As my shot-gun sits, its a little weighty at about 6.5-7 lbs. We have two 1/4" machined rounds for our end plates, my partner and I.
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Re: Shotgun Design
I haven't got the parts for the takeoff yet but was planing on a vented 2" x 3/4 reducer to a parrot maybe. I haven't weighed mine yet but i would be surprised if it was more than 3 lbs.The KYChemist wrote:I'm sure it will become clear, as you post more pics, but what are your plans for the takeoff? From where I sit, it looks like you used two tri-clamp end caps for end plates. With a shoulder machined on the outside, in order to fit into the main body of the shot-gun. What are you going to connect to the output side, for the take-off? Two ferrules welded up, spool style, with another end cap with a hole drilled in it? I'm curious to see. Good idea on the end caps. Probablly saves a bunch of weight. As my shot-gun sits, its a little weighty at about 6.5-7 lbs. We have two 1/4" machined rounds for our end plates, my partner and I.
- still_stirrin
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Re: Shotgun Design
How about baffles in your water jacket?
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Re: Shotgun Design
I did think of baffles, but decided that with the small diameter outer tube that it may not be necessary. thanks for the input thostill_stirrin wrote:How about baffles in your water jacket?
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Re: Shotgun Design
Very nice work!!!
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Re: Shotgun Design
Thanks. Deflag is up next.firewater69 wrote:Very nice work!!!
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Re: Shotgun Design
OK OK OK yours is bigger shady.
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Re: Shotgun Design
[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1428421549049.jpg[/attachment] Somemore condenser pics. Would a baffle inside this deflag be necessary?
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Re: Shotgun Design
[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1428422062119.jpg[/attachment] here's another
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Re: Shotgun Design
I don't think it could be considered necessary at all, but it would definitely improve performance. It's up to you whether or not that's important. That looks like a giant shotgun, baffles would 'stretch' - lengthen and narrow - the water's path considerably.
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Re: Shotgun Design
It has dual inlets and outlets as well, but I may look around for some scrap for baffling.
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Re: Shotgun Design
Nice work.mate, very neat!. What's the dephleg for?, looks big!. I've found baffles and all that stuff unnecessary , my best dephlag is fewer larger inner tubes.
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Re: Shotgun Design
thanks. Its for a 4" bubble column i'm building. hopefully 3x3/4 inner tubes and 6x1/2 outer tubes are not to much at 11" long. You make some pretty neat pieces yourself.googe wrote:Nice work.mate, very neat!. What's the dephleg for?, looks big!. I've found baffles and all that stuff unnecessary , my best dephlag is fewer larger inner tubes.
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Re: Shotgun Design
[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1428540349404.jpg[/attachment] assembled pic
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Re: Shotgun Design
nice work!. That's really big though!, usually for 4" there around 5" long with 5or so 3/4" inners. Mine is 4" long with 4 x 1" inner tubes and I can.achieve full reflux with bigger all water flow. When there bigger it makes reaction times when adjusting the rc valve slow. And having different sized inner tubes might cause the vapor to choose the path with less resistance (bigger inner tube), I don't know if you've used a dephlagmator before?, but you'll be very very surprised how.little water flow you need, when im taking product my rc valve is barely turned on, just a slow trickle. Good luck with the build, looking forward to seeing the rest, should be shinny 

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- coastershiner
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Re: Shotgun Design
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