4 plate flute plans and build

[30xs]

Thanks for the replies. It’ll be an easy fix now that will save me some headache and trying to pull the tree back out. Anyone running a seven tube shotgun that has a length recommendation?

[30xs]

Fixed the j trap on the bottom plate. Thanks Setsumi and Yummyrum. I knew I wanted 3/4” on the trap, but wasn’t thinking that it needed to be measured from the inside/top of the J. It makes perfect sense once pointed out. Thanks for the save.

Messed up on another disc drilling attempt drilling for my PC. I did sort out a method that seems like it’s gonna work, I just need to make a few new ones to drill. I think I’m going to build it with 16” of cooling, unless someone with more/some experience says I need to be longer. I want to be able to use it on my 2” stripping column, and flute. I’m currently running just about 18” on a four tube 1/2” i.d., running water pumped up from a stream. I don’t want to shoot myself in the foot and not be able to run from a reservoir at a later date if need be. I can go up to 20” cooling area comfortably if need be. Seven tubes at .438 I.d. would give both more surface and slower vapor speeds telling me I “should” be able to get away with the 16”, correct?

[30xs]

Finally made a little progress on the condenser. Decided to make the tube bank 18”, to stay on the safer side. Baffles will be about 1.75” apart. Here’s a photo of it dry fit together. Hopefully I’ll have time tomorrow evening to clean and solder. I’m finally seeing the light at the end of the construction tunnel, next obstacle after leak testing and polish will be learning how to drive this thing.

[30xs]

Well it’s pretty much done, minus plumbing. All that’s left is to put the tree in and begin the cleaning runs once plumbing arrives. Once I’ve confirmed there’s no leaks I’ll polish it back up again and hit it with the lacquer. I would like to thank all the builders on this forum for documenting their builds, and those that helped answer questions along the way, to make my build possible. Here she is prior to the cleaning runs.

[Yummyrum]

Top job 30xs
Love the condenser .... man that will be an amazing stripping tool

[30xs]

Top job 30xs
Love the condenser .... man that will be an amazing stripping tool

Thanks Yummy, for both the compliment and the help along the way. Searching for some valves now.

I started putting together a parrot to use when stripping, but didn’t like the way it looked. Back to the drawing board on that one.

[Saltbush Bill]

download/file.php?id=61797&mode=view
That looks better

[30xs]

download/file.php?id=61797&mode=view
That looks better

Thanks. I’m glad that was pointed out prior to dropping the tree in. It may be a royal pain to remove once it’s in. May require a little warming.

[30xs]

Acfixer, or anyone else that may know, couldn’t I use this for both of my dump valves and be able to switch between the two for full reflux or run mode? I plan to put a Y in the dephleg side to put a needle valve inline to tune the run. Once it’s set I can just use the ball valves mainly to switch between reflux and run, and have the needle set close to where it needs to be all the time. I’m sure there may be a little tweaking needed, but close.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2561714839

[acfixer69]

I would say yes but with out a flow diagram I'm guessing. The valves you linked are type T you may be better served with type L 3-way for this app. Just a thought.

[acfixer69]

Thinking to get what you are thinking of I believe Yummyrum just made a by-pass that jumped the needle with a ball valve. Same results.

[Saltbush Bill]

Yes its been done before.....having a bypass valve to enable or disable full reflux is an excellent idea imo

[DetroitDIY]

... I’ll polish it back up again and hit it with the lacquer...

I just used a bottle of penny brite rather than re-buff things. That worked well for me.

[Yummyrum]

Acfixer, or anyone else that may know, couldn’t I use this for both of my dump valves and be able to switch between the two for full reflux or run mode? I plan to put a Y in the dephleg side to put a needle valve inline to tune the run. Once it’s set I can just use the ball valves mainly to switch between reflux and run, and have the needle set close to where it needs to be all the time. I’m sure there may be a little tweaking needed, but close.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2561714839

30xs
I did this and it works really well .
When the handle is up its in full reflux .
When its down its controlled by needle valve .
When its in the middle , there is no flow so its in Pot stripping mode .

Be aware that those three way valve come as an “L” or a “T” style . I can’t remember off hand which one I have .
One gives you A or B or Off the other gives you A or B or Both . You want the first .

Note that on mine , the bottom RH fitting on the deflag is actally a dummy and used as a physical mounting point . There is no flow through it .

[30xs]

Real life, and the loss of a close friend that shared this hobby has caused a bit of a delay. I finally put the tree in today and found out that I must have screwed up the measurement on my stop pins. The Dow comets are 3/4” and the top sets about 3/16-1/4” above the bottom of my sight window. I could drive the plates back up and remove the stops and rely on friction to hold the plates in place, if need be. It took a block of wood and a little persuasion to get the seated to where they are now. They will press in FIRMLY by hand but I run out of pressure after the last plate starts in. Will this bath height on the window be an issue? I’m thinking as long as I get a good seal on my windows and with the 2” trap adapters I “should” be semi ok.

[30xs]

Acfixer, or anyone else that may know, couldn’t I use this for both of my dump valves and be able to switch between the two for full reflux or run mode? I plan to put a Y in the dephleg side to put a needle valve inline to tune the run. Once it’s set I can just use the ball valves mainly to switch between reflux and run, and have the needle set close to where it needs to be all the time. I’m sure there may be a little tweaking needed, but close.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2561714839

30xs
I did this and it works really well .
When the handle is up its in full reflux .
When its down its controlled by needle valve .
When its in the middle , there is no flow so its in Pot stripping mode .
FCD00CB4-3E88-465D-B952-F70465862636.jpeg2EB6852E-B9AB-412E-9C56-99B849BD36B4.jpeg
Be aware that those three way valve come as an “L” or a “T” style . I can’t remember off hand which one I have .
One gives you A or B or Off the other gives you A or B or Both . You want the first .

Note that on mine , the bottom RH fitting on the deflag is actally a dummy and used as a physical mounting point . There is no flow through it .

That is pretty much exactly how I’m wanting to set mine up, but I’m wanting to set my valves a little more remote. I was planning to mount them around the rim of the keg. I see you feed from the top on the dephleg. Are you feeding it from your condenser output?

[Setsumi]

Real life, and the loss of a close friend that shared this hobby has caused a bit of a delay. I finally put the tree in today and found out that I must have screwed up the measurement on my stop pins. The Dow comets are 3/4” and the top sets about 3/16-1/4” above the bottom of my sight window. I could drive the plates back up and remove the stops and rely on friction to hold the plates in place, if need be. It took a block of wood and a little persuasion to get the seated to where they are now. They will press in FIRMLY by hand but I run out of pressure after the last plate starts in. Will this bath height on the window be an issue? I’m thinking as long as I get a good seal on my windows and with the 2” trap adapters I “should” be semi ok.

17AF3D79-303B-419A-85D3-E39028F744C1.jpeg

you will have a good visual of the boil on the plate judging the downcommer. I cannot see it but is your next plate clear of the sight glass?

[Yummyrum]

That is pretty much exactly how I’m wanting to set mine up, but I’m wanting to set my valves a little more remote. I was planning to mount them around the rim of the keg. I see you feed from the top on the dephleg. Are you feeding it from your condenser output?

Water in the bottom ( left hand side on the first pic ) of the condenser and out the top via the valves to keep it pressurised and no air pockets

[30xs]

Real life, and the loss of a close friend that shared this hobby has caused a bit of a delay. I finally put the tree in today and found out that I must have screwed up the measurement on my stop pins. The Dow comets are 3/4” and the top sets about 3/16-1/4” above the bottom of my sight window. I could drive the plates back up and remove the stops and rely on friction to hold the plates in place, if need be. It took a block of wood and a little persuasion to get the seated to where they are now. They will press in FIRMLY by hand but I run out of pressure after the last plate starts in. Will this bath height on the window be an issue? I’m thinking as long as I get a good seal on my windows and with the 2” trap adapters I “should” be semi ok.

17AF3D79-303B-419A-85D3-E39028F744C1.jpeg

you will have a good visual of the boil on the plate judging the downcommer. I cannot see it but is your next plate clear of the sight glass?

I did a quick check check with a straight edge on the bottom downcomer and it’s pretty close. I have a small gap between a couple plates, that made my top plate set a little high. I should be able to get the slide hammer and pull the tree and make it set a little closer to the intended height. It looked like I could at least knock it down close to an 1/8” by some simple nut adjustments.

[30xs]

After messing around with the plates I found it easier to not use locking washers on the plates, but getting the spacing perfect to keep the downcomers touching the next plate and square is proving difficult. I think I’m going to solder the downcomer to the lower plate and just build another complete three plate tree to drop in if I ever decide I want to drop a plate. Otherwise, it looks like my measurements were correct for the 5.5” spacing. Since the top plate doesn’t have a downcomer resting on it should I be fully perforated on it. Right now it is drilled the same as the lower plates, but would adding the 19-24 holes that were designed for the downcomer landing throw off something?

I did have a couple questions. I’ve lacquered all of the pieces, except the output and still need to do the sight glass rings. My question is on the output is it safe to coat it? I know I’ve read to make sure I don’t get lacquer inside the column, but what about the end of the output? Is it more of a concern for vapor and the little bit of dribble that rolls around the end, in liquid form, safe? I usually use a copper wire shaped similar to a coons pecker to help direct the flow, but wanted to make sure I didn’t need to mask off the bottom of the output to eliminate the contact with the clear for safety reasons.

Also, I think I may go ahead and make a small neutral section in case the desire for a neutral arises. What would be a decent smaller size to build one. Planning on using lava rock packing and was hoping to be able to get away with something in the 12-16” range? Would that length be sufficient, or would it only offer a lightened flavor, and not a neutral?

[30xs]

Finished up the parrot, just need to clear it. Is it ok the have lacquer applied where alcohol will touch in liquid form?

[Yummyrum]

Is it ok the have lacquer applied where alcohol will touch in liquid form?

No

[30xs]

Is it ok the have lacquer applied where alcohol will touch in liquid form?

No

Thanks, Yummy. I will mask off the area in red to keep things safe. I was just hoping to be able to protect the polished surface. Keeping up with an inch or two is better than contaminating the juice.

[30xs]

Sorted out the issue of having an uncoated surface on the output and keeping everything shiny. Parrot is completed and the spout is in progress. I used a piece of keg spear and bent it to fit the spout and soldered it on.

[DetroitDIY]

As always, looking very nice 30xs.

Before applying finish, give a slight bit of stress to the parrot to confirm you're happy with the stiffness of that goose neck. I mention this as I was surprised at the lack of stiffness of the copper in my parrot. Granted, it's the thinnest wall cheap bastard copper I could get from the big box store, and I integrated a removable shelf to hold the jar (up to 800 ml). But I did connect a portion of my goose neck and I still feel I wish it were stiffer. If you don't hang mass off of it like I did and you are careful not to bump it, it'll likely be just fine (and it looks beautiful).

[acfixer69]

Hey 30xs. Your build is a looker. I'm looking forward to the run results. I know I mentioned about plate blow by at the plate/wall, their will be some and it may be very minimal or not. My advice to the parrot is to add a dump valve to the bottom so you can collect direct and not confuse parrot smearing with plate weep. Good luck and I battled this in my build and hope this helps.

[30xs]

The parrot is for stripping runs only, but wanted the build challenge since I did my first 15% solder putting the output on. I was worried about the flex without bracing, on the parrot, but it’s fairly stout. I do want to add something decorative as a brace, just haven’t sorted that out yet.

The plate to wall is very tight. I have to use an slide hammer to get it started moving and then with it attached to the keg I stand on the rim and pull with about everything I have (both hands) in order to get it out. I’m hoping for very little plate to wall blow by.

I have the “run” spout roughly finished. I did it first and cut the stainless smaller than what would have looked better, but it should still be functional. I also drilled and soldered in a plate for the neutral section. Hopefully the plate is up to par.

[acfixer69]

I backed off a bit on posting to let you go with the flow on the plate tree thing. like I said with pref plates it may not be a problem since it works on leaks but natural reflux of a 4"column can be a factor. Watch for weeping down the wall you will see it and it is not a good thing for separation. For stripping why would you use a parrot? I'll back off again and wait on your results.

[30xs]

I backed off a bit on posting to let you go with the flow on the plate tree thing. like I said with pref plates it may not be a problem since it works on leaks but natural reflux of a 4"column can be a factor. Watch for weeping down the wall you will see it and it is not a good thing for separation. For stripping why would you use a parrot? I'll back off again and wait on your results.

If I have too many issues with weeping I’ll just solder the tree in rigid and just build another three plate and swap columns when I want to drop a plate. No need to back off, I enjoy your input, even if it is contrary to my thinking or what I’m doing. You have made me stop and think a few times when reading your posts.

I have only been running a parrot on stripping runs to know when I’m getting to the end of the strip. I run it basically blindly with ABV dictating when to shut down. I did make two plumbing lines to try feeding the dephleg from the top, or bottom, depending on which one I install.

[acfixer69]

Stay flexible you will need to be able to adapt to the crises. I'm not haunting you on the weeping thing but did think I can fix that and it set me back years trying to correct. Like a brewing friend tole me many years ago steam mashing was the go to, I just wasn't hearing him.