Will this POT suffice for a controller build?

[Deplorable]

Ordering bits and pieces for a 240V controller, and 5500w element for my still. Propane is becoming a pain in the ass filling three 20 pounders every few weeks while there is a 50A outlet right there in the garage that only ever gets used for my compressor.
Does this potentiometer suffice? 500k


There are a few parts it seems wise to buy two of, the POT, the SSR, and an extra element.

[StillerBoy]

Follow the advise on this thread.. you cann't go wrong.. all the parts and built you need are on the schematic..

https://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtop ... 85&t=51796

Setup it with 2 potentimeter.. you will lime the fine tuning.. that's if you want to learn to run the reflux on the edge of efficency..

Mars

[Setsumi]

get a 10000w SCR... and a fan

[Deplorable]

get a 10000w SCR... and a fan

Already have the SSR, heat sink, and almost everything else on the way. Only question I had was on the potentiometer.

Thanks for that link Mars. Looks like adding a 2nd POT for more control is something that can be done later pretty easily with proper advanced planning in laying out the front of the box.

Just need to run to the electrical supply warehouse and pick up some 8/3 SOOW, a plug end for my outlet, and a couple of terminal blocks.
I'm still undecided on a cooling fan as well.

[shadylane]

There are a few parts it seems wise to buy two of, the POT, the SSR, and an extra element.

The 500k pot seems to be what all the Solid State Voltage Regulators use when running 240v.

[Demy]

470-500K is suitable for use. I use a scr enclosed in a box, a 5 volt mini fan powered by a phone charger. I have been using it without problems for many years. I believe both methods are valid for us.

[Deplorable]

I think I have everything ordered now to build a solid controller box.
-20' of 10/3 SOOW cord, I figured on 15 feet from the outlet to the box, and 4' from the box to the element.









I've salvaged a 12v PC coolign fan, and have a USB-12V 3 pin cord to power it.
I'm basing off of this wiring diagram found in the 63 page controller thread.

Have I missed anything?

[MtRainier]

That ammeter doesn't quite wire up how you have it diagrammed there. I'm confused by your A, E, n labels on the conductors. If you're in the US, I assume you're wiring your plug as as two hot legs and a ground? If that's the case then "n" would be a hot, "A" would be a hot, and "E" would be your ground?

You'll need both hots wired to power your ammeter There is a good diagram on the amazon item in the images. Then the sensor coil on the ammeter goes around one of the hot lines. I put it around the one not going to the speed control relay, but I don't think it matters much.

[StillerBoy]

and 4' from the box to the element.

That's way to short.. needed to be at 8 - 10'.. and don't mount it to or close by the still like some do.. keep the controller box away for the still, if for no other reason that a water line breaks..

But don't take my word.. make one 4' and see what it give you.. got to throw that in..

And that wiring diagram is not right either.. check it against the link I provided you with..

Mars

[Deplorable]

and 4' from the box to the element.

That's way to short.. needed to be at 8 - 10'.. and don't mount it to or close by the still like some do.. keep the controller box away for the still, if for no other reason that a water line breaks..

But don't take my word.. make one 4' and see what it give you.. got to throw that in..

And that wiring diagram is not right either.. check it against the link I provided you with..

Mars

See, this is why I stated the plan for the cord.
My line of thinking was that it would be better to have it close to make adjustments. You're right though. I'll give some more consideration to the lenghts in, and lenghts out. I've got a lot of cord to play with. I'll re-evaluate my location and look at better options that also don't create a trip hazard.
Comparing the two diagrams (me not being very electrically savy), I see a difference in how power is supplied to the fan controller. Is that what you are referring to? Aside from that, and two POTs vs one, I don't see any other differences.
This project will challenge me a bit, skill wise, but I'm sure I can tackle it, and have no intention of applying power to anything before Its been "peer reviewed"

You say use this one?

[shadylane]

I see something that's missing.
The heatsink compound
And your using the wrong solid state relay.
This is the wrong part for what you need.


This is what you need. It's a solid state voltage regulator.

[Deplorable]

I see something that's missing.
The heatsink compound
And your using the wrong solid state relay.
This is the wrong part for what you need.


This is what you need. It's a solid state voltage regulator.

I have the Heat sink compound on hand. But the SSR is wrong? Well shit. I guess all the lingo on here had me thinking SSR was what I wanted, not an ssVr

[Deplorable]

I see something that's missing.
The heatsink compound
And your using the wrong solid state relay.
This is the wrong part for what you need.


This is what you need. It's a solid state voltage regulator.

Ive got the right SSVR on order now. the beauty of Amazon is free returns. I'll send the other one back.
Thank You Shady for the eagle eye.

[shadylane]

Ive got the right SSVR on order now. the beauty of Amazon is free returns. I'll send the other one back.
Thank You Shady for the eagle eye.

That's what the forum is about.
Helping each other succeed

On a side note
The meter you are using has what's called a current transformer
CT for short, that's the donut looking gizmo the comes with the meter.
One and only one of the current carrying wires needs to pass through the CT.
Also make sure the two wires on the CT are connected to the meter before powering up the controller.
If it's not the CT is likely to go up in smoke

[shadylane]

Here's a block diagram

[Deplorable]

Thanks Shady.

[Deplorable]

@Stillerboy and Shady
I'm wrapping my head around my wiring as I want my box laid out. Do I have this wired correctly? Please excuse the crude picture, I'm no electrical wizard.

What am I missing ?

[Deplorable]

Well, I figured out what didn't look right. I think this one is correct.

[Deplorable]

Here's a block diagram

CT.png

Shady, why would this meter not be connected to ground? This has me scratching my head.

[Demy]

Here's a block diagram

CT.png

Shady, why would this meter not be connected to ground? This has me scratching my head.

Your kettles (and consequently the electrical elements) must be grounded. I believe that the voltmeter must be placed at the output of the SSR and not before.

[Deplorable]

Here's a block diagram

CT.png

Shady, why would this meter not be connected to ground? This has me scratching my head.

Your kettles (and consequently the electrical elements) must be grounded. The deplorable scheme looks fine. I recommend moving your box far enough away to stay safe from liquids.

Yes. As I stated earlier, I'm going to keep the line in shorter, and the line out to the element long. So, likely 4 to 5 feet long on the source side, and the rest on the load side.
Kettle will be grounded through the element and TC.
A few of the parts showed up yesterday, waiting on the rest to show up later in the week.
Still not sure why the ammeter doesn't require a wire to earth.

[Demy]

If I understand correctly, do you want to connect a voltmeter? in this case there is an error in the diagram, the voltmeter must be connected to the SSR output not before.

[shadylane]

If I understand correctly, do you want to connect a voltmeter? in this case there is an error in the diagram, the voltmeter must be connected to the SSR output not before.

I think your right.

[Deplorable]

If I understand correctly, do you want to connect a voltmeter? in this case there is an error in the diagram, the voltmeter must be connected to the SSR output not before.

I think your right.

So, the CT loop needs to be after the SSVR? And what about the meter, I think that on thier image on the ad, they are showing it as N in what should be earth or ground. No?

[shadylane]

If I understand correctly, do you want to connect a voltmeter? in this case there is an error in the diagram, the voltmeter must be connected to the SSR output not before.

I think your right.

So, the CT loop needs to be after the SSVR? And what about the meter, I think that on thier image on the ad, they are showing it as N in what should be earth or ground. No?

It doesn't matter if the CT is before or after the SSVR.
The current is the same through all the wires and components in a series circuit.

[shadylane]

Here's a block diagram with the meter and CT after the SSVR.
This will work, but there's a possibility when the power is turned down low, the meter might turn off.
The downfall of this meter is it uses the same wire to power itself and measure the voltage.
Personally I only use an analog voltmeter. All the digital stuff I've tried wound up having an early death.

[Deplorable]

Here's a block diagram with the meter and CT after the SSVR.
This will work, but there's a possibility when the power is turned down low, the meter might turn off.
The downfall of this meter is it uses the same wire to power itself and measure the voltage.
Personally I only use an analog voltmeter. All the digital stuff I've tried wound up having an early death.

ct3.png

Good to know. I guess when this one fails, maybe I'll open the hole in the lid and go old school analog.
Otherwise, my whiteboard wiring diagram is sound and I can proceed?

[shadylane]

Your diagram is sound
And the meter will last the longest.
The amp reading on the meter will be accurate.
But the volt meter part will only read the incoming 240 voltage.
I'm not sure about the accuracy of meters watt reading.

[Demy]

I asked you if you need the voltmeter function for that. If you want to measure the volts the connection must be done after SSR while if you connect it like that scheme you lose the function of the volt measurement. I don't think the duration of the instrument comes from that, I have a very simple voltmeter and have been using it for a long time.

[Deplorable]

Sorry Demy, the first time I read your reply it didn't sink in.
I don't necessarily think the voltage reading is that important for the box's intended use. In my feeble mind, I think the bigger concern is how much current you're allowing to flow to the element. I've been reading some of the other threads as well related to the used of a course, and fine pot. So as I lay out the lid of the box, I want to me mindful of the possibility of adding a 2nd pot, or just adding a graphite resister. I don't think either addition is going to be something I will end up wishing I had done from the very beginning, but rather a future improvement in performance.