I was taught "the colder the better" - we used bags of ice in a recirculating cooler full of water and kept it icy cold.
As I run my own still I use cold stream water in the condenser, not ice cold, but I don't recirculate, the distillate comes off the still feeling cold/cool to the touch and the jars will gather condensation as they fill. The water coming out of the condenser is usually warm to the touch. I have never had problems with my condenser not keeping up with the output at all. I am filling a quart jar every 10 mins or so.
So is there a "proper" temp? I was taught the colder it is the cleaner it will taste and in my mind it made sense?
It only needs to be cold enough to knock down all the vapor. Manage the temp of the discharge water to maximize efficiency if you recycle.
If I was using an unlimited supply of cool water, I'd run my condenser so the distillate came off at the same temp my hydrometer is calibrated for.
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There is no 'proper' temp, but like Deplorable says, the rule of thumb is to have the capacity to knock down the vapor your heat source creates. "Colder equals cleaner" is a myth. A well-known Scottish distillery runs their coolant water "warm" (at expense) because they feel it has a positive effect on flavor.
This is a commonly-asked question. Some good responses here .
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Generally the minimum amount of water is recommended that you can release your distillate at fresh temperature, you are looking for minimal waste and maximum efficiency. It is not necessary for the distillate bait at "polar" temperatures, as long as it is not hot.
thank you, sorry I did not seem to find the answers from searching... I guess I am doing just fine on that aspect and I do re-use all the water for my gardens, chickens,goats, etc.
Best to have a temp gradient of cool at the bottom to warm at the top. Icy cold can cause huffing from the vapor suddenly collapsing at the top of the condenser. Seems best to have the vapor gradually condensing as it moves down through the vapor tube(s). But, like others have said, probably not a big deal as long as all the vapor gets condensed.
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And then when you get into reflux you need to watch out for super cooling.. but on a potstill cool product is fine, coĺd if you have the water is just fine as well.
Just cool enough. I don’t think that spirit run output being a touch warm hurts anything. After all, we let jars sit for a day or two to let the most volatiles air out…so what harm could a slightly warm output cause?
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Experience is usually the result of bad judgement..
Setsumi wrote: ↑Tue Aug 03, 2021 8:48 am
And then when you get into reflux you need to watch out for super cooling..
Super cooling? That's a new one to me... What's the concern?
I need something else to worry about... (LOL)
You need to read back far on this... on a PACKED REFLUX for neutral you do not want your refluxed liquid too cold. If it is too cold it drops lower down your column and the higher proof mixes with more lower proof. This lowers your columns efficiency or shortens the reflux column... less purity.
On a plated/flute column (lower efficiency in terms of reboiling/ purity) i suspect it may return more alc to the boiler. So it will lower energy efficiency.
If you chase numbers or mind dimes it certainly is something to mind.
Setsumi wrote: ↑Tue Aug 03, 2021 9:33 am
You need to read back far on this... on a PACKED REFLUX for neutral you do not want your refluxed liquid too cold. If it is too cold it drops lower down your column and the higher proof mixes with more lower proof. This lowers your columns efficiency or shortens the reflux column... less purity.
On a plated/flute column (lower efficiency in terms of reboiling/ purity) i suspect it may return more alc to the boiler. So it will lower energy efficiency.
If you chase numbers or mind dimes it certainly is something to mind.
I have seen where the water is routed first through the output condenser then to the reflux condenser as this will be warmer water, could I do a method such as this?
Setsumi wrote: ↑Tue Aug 03, 2021 8:48 am
And then when you get into reflux you need to watch out for super cooling.. but on a potstill cool product is fine, coĺd if you have the water is just fine as well.
Just increase the time that the water spends in the condensor by restricting the flow rate that will increase the amount of contact time and increase the final temp
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Setsumi wrote: ↑Tue Aug 03, 2021 9:33 am
You need to read back far on this... on a PACKED REFLUX for neutral you do not want your refluxed liquid too cold. If it is too cold it drops lower down your column and the higher proof mixes with more lower proof. This lowers your columns efficiency or shortens the reflux column... less purity.
On a plated/flute column (lower efficiency in terms of reboiling/ purity) i suspect it may return more alc to the boiler. So it will lower energy efficiency.
If you chase numbers or mind dimes it certainly is something to mind.
I have seen where the water is routed first through the output condenser then to the reflux condenser as this will be warmer water, could I do a method such as this?
Yes for LM, VM and CCVM reflux management heads it works. For CM you may need seperate cooling lines or at least a way to manage the cooling paths individualy.
Setsumi wrote: ↑Tue Aug 03, 2021 9:33 am
You need to read back far on this... on a PACKED REFLUX for neutral you do not want your refluxed liquid too cold. If it is too cold it drops lower down your column and the higher proof mixes with more lower proof. This lowers your columns efficiency or shortens the reflux column... less purity.
On a plated/flute column (lower efficiency in terms of reboiling/ purity) i suspect it may return more alc to the boiler. So it will lower energy efficiency.
If you chase numbers or mind dimes it certainly is something to mind.
I have seen where the water is routed first through the output condenser then to the reflux condenser as this will be warmer water, could I do a method such as this?
It's what I do on CCVM, it works well but it will work as well if you have separate lines, just let the water scroll slowly.
Control the distillate temperature, not the water temperature. I automate mine so that I don't have to fiddle with it and to minimise water use. The water out is usually too hot to hold your finger under.
Just increase the time that the water spends in the condensor by restricting the flow rate that will increase the amount of contact time and increase the final temp