Anyone have any suggestions?

[DRHillier]

I've decided to build a bokakob and currently looking for a good decently priced milk container. 7.9 oughta do for my needs. I found plans for free here https://learntomoonshine.com/how-to-bui ... structions
Not sure if the plans came from someone here, but there is a reference to the sight when it comes to wrapping a coil.
Please take a look and let me know if there's any modifications I should consider, any inherent problems I need to address etc etc. I'm getting excited to put the pot still on the shelf and only use it for distilling water. I bought it for the sole purpose of water distillation, but once you have a still you start looking around and reading, next thing you know your faced with many other reasons to have one. And you need something better and more efficient in order to accomplish those goals. I could also use my vevor boiler which is just shy of 10 gallons to mount the column on, but don't want to lose it for water purification. I suppose I could make it dual purpose but it would probably look like a mess. I'll find what I'm looking for. Just have to buy once and cry once.

[RC Al]

Find a Keg, failing that use a triclamp on the bottom, not a sink reducer

Make it tall, just shy of your ceiling. 2" diameter at the min, any less is pulling teeth...

Not sure how your going to "loose" the vevor boiler, if your using it that often, maybe a bigger one is in order?

Neutral stills work much better when fed low wines from a pot still

Use a stainless valve, not a brass one like the picture

[Saltbush Bill]

I found plans for free here https://learntomoonshine.com/how-to-bui ... structions
Not sure if the plans came from someone here, but there is a reference to the sight when it comes to wrapping a coil.

I really don't understand why you would even go looking elsewhere for plans for any still type, most of the best plans are here and have been copied by other people on other sites.
A bit of a search will find heaps of boka builds that you can follow and get ideas from, there are also detailed templates for the slant plates here, as well as reflux coil winding tutorials.
Yes some of it might take a bit to find, but its all here and people here know what works and what doesn't.........I cant say that for something from some other site.
I agree with RC , find a keg and build a proper boiler, you dont have to spend a fortune on it to start with, a bog standard keg on a stand with a gas ring under it doesn't cost much.......you can add bells and whistles as time goes by and as you can afford to.
Hes also right about staying at 2 inch diameter at minimum for the column, anything smaller could be detrimental to your sanity.
The fact that who ever put those plans together suggests smaller makes me wary to begin with.

[Oatmeal]

Also, corrugated stainless steel gas pipe is really easy to wind a coil out of....

[Bushman]

I second using a keg if you can find one also along with the column build thread or the pot still build thread below is a link that might be useful.
https://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtop ... =1&t=19711

[DRHillier]

I second using a keg if you can find one also along with the column build thread or the pot still build thread below is a link that might be useful.
https://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtop ... =1&t=19711

I bookmarked that link. I'll look through it when I'm home from work. Thank you

[v-child]

The best thing I ever did was to make a concentric LM and put a VM takeoff tee in the middle. Best of both worlds. I wouldn't waste my time with a Bokakob.

[still_stirrin]

+1 to v-child.

The concentric liquid cup design is very easy to build: a simple bell reducer with a pipe extending up through the middle.

The condensate will drip down from the reflux condenser, so if you’re planning to use a coil of copper or CSST, then you’ll need a “hat” or “umbrella” over the central vapor tube.

But, if you’re using a concentric (jacketed) condenser, ala Liebig, then the condensate will form and drip down along the inner walls of the condenser and collect in the liquid cup such that no “hat” or “umbrella” is needed to cover the vapor tube.

Early concentric designs also used a “cold finger” in the center of the concentric condenser to increase vapor to condenser contact area. In these designs, a “hat” or “umbrella” was also necessary so that the liquid (condensate) didn’t drip straight from the cold finger back down the center vapor tube without collection in the concentric’s liquid cup, overriding the reflux ratio management control.

Regardless of the RC design, the liquid collected in the cup will spill back over the vapor tube to drain back to the column, thereby starting the reflux cycle. You adjust the reflux ratio by the slow liquid take off (from the cup) compared to the amount of liquid spilling back over the weir to the column. But keep in mind that LM designs typically have a slow takeoff rate in order to maintain the high reflux ratio. And you’ll also need a generous heat input to keep vapor production high, hence the high reflux ratio and high purity of the takeoff.
ss

[Setsumi]

May I ask? You got plans to build a Bokakop from somewhere else... Boka posted his different designs here on HD. It is a good reflux management style and myself like the LM part. But did you look at other reflux management heads on HD?

My main reason for asking is there are other reflux management styles that are easier to build. Yes by all means if you want LM go for it, there is nothing wrong in it but a VM runs just as well without the liquid collection part that needs fabrication and CCVM runs without a valve.

[bunny]

I've decided to build a bokakob and currently looking for a good decently priced milk container. 7.9 oughta do for my needs. I found plans for free here https://learntomoonshine.com/how-to-bui ... structions
Not sure if the plans came from someone here, but there is a reference to the sight when it comes to wrapping a coil.
Please take a look and let me know if there's any modifications I should consider, any inherent problems I need to address etc etc. I'm getting excited to put the pot still on the shelf and only use it for distilling water. I bought it for the sole purpose of water distillation, but once you have a still you start looking around and reading, next thing you know your faced with many other reasons to have one. And you need something better and more efficient in order to accomplish those goals. I could also use my vevor boiler which is just shy of 10 gallons to mount the column on, but don't want to lose it for water purification. I suppose I could make it dual purpose but it would probably look like a mess. I'll find what I'm looking for. Just have to buy once and cry once.

Have you decided WHAT you want to produce and approximately HOW MUCH over a period of say one month?
If you have made this decision it will save you a lot of grief from the next few decisions. (too big, too small, too fast, too slow)
BTW, your controller, boiler, and packed column don't care what head you place on top. There is only so much properly refluxed vapor available in it to be removed as product.

[DRHillier]

May I ask? You got plans to build a Bokakop from somewhere else... Boka posted his different designs here on HD. It is a good reflux management style and myself like the LM part. But did you look at other reflux management heads on HD?

My main reason for asking is there are other reflux management styles that are easier to build. Yes by all means if you want LM go for it, there is nothing wrong in it but a VM runs just as well without the liquid collection part that needs fabrication and CCVM runs without a valve.

I'd be more than happy to build a bokakob from the HD site. I more than likely will use the plans from here. I've been reading every day since I've joined and haven't found anything that has step by step illustrations that are as comprehensive as that link though. They very well may be here somewhere, I just haven't found them yet. I've used the search tool with the word "bokakob" and read through everything. Haven't found a "how to" guide. Based on advice from this site i am not going to follow his "recipe" I'll use a bigger column. Probably 2 inch minimum, possibly a 3". I won't use a sink drain for attaching the column to the boiler. I'll use a keg instead of a milk can. I'm listening to the advice that I'm given here, but I'm also reading things on many different sites to learn as much as I can. I think I'll make a worm in a 5 gallon bucket for my vevor and use it for stripping runs it'll be good experience. I've got a line on a keg with a hole already cut into it. I haven't seen it, a buddy at work has a friend that is willing to part with it. Hopefully it'll be what I need, and depending on the hole in it, that'll dictate what size column i use. (Unless it's 4 inches, then I'll have to reduce it) as far as what I want to make.... vodka more than likely. Neutral stuff. If I make a worm and make a reducer to accommodate the worm or a thumper I could make a multi purpose setup and try other recipes as well where a pot still would be more practical. I think (not know) that neutral SHOULD be easier to make as opposed to diving into a whiskey recipe with no real experience. As I get familiar with a new setup I'll get more comfortable and try different things. All I know is there's a lot of designs out there and I need to pick one to build. I'll probably start out with my burner and work on an electric element to upgrade the keg.

[Saltbush Bill]

You wont be disappointed if you do go 3 inch, just costs more all round, pipe , packing and fittings.
Another thing to be aware of is that good stainless needle valves can be costly, there are cheap ones out there if you can find them.
Ive seen links posted up here from time to time , and also from memory there is a tutorial somewhere here on making your own needle valve.

[DRHillier]

You wont be disappointed if you do go 3 inch, just costs more all round, pipe , packing and fittings.
Another thing to be aware of is that good stainless needle valves can be costly, there are cheap ones out there if you can find them.
Ive seen links posted up here from time to time , and also from memory there is a tutorial somewhere here on making your own needle valve.

The plans I've been referring to show a 1/4" brass needle valve. I already know that brass isn't the right material. But is the diameter correct? I see "swagelock" in 1/4" for around 30 dollars and on up to around 60 dollars for 316 stainless. I know that a larger diameter in a worm setup is better, but would the same Theory apply to the takeoff? Perhaps 3/8" or 1/2"?

[Oatmeal]

Moar reading! The boka has been built so many times, for so long, every question you're asking has been answered already for years! It's so old fashioned it's out of style!

Perhaps you might try the wiki: Boka reflux still - how to build

[DRHillier]

Moar reading! The boka has been built so many times, for so long, every question you're asking has been answered already for years! It's so old fashioned it's out of style!

Perhaps you might try the wiki: Boka reflux still - how to build

Boom!! There it is. I've been reading for months now. Never came across that thread. I've never tried the wiki thing before. Guess I'll start reading there now. Thanks!

[Setsumi]

I believe these are Bokakops original sketches.
https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.php/index.ph ... n_drawings

While you are thinking on a 3", have a look into a standard VM and DAD's CCVM. You may find they are easier to build.

No, i do not say you need to read more. And a bok is a solid choice.

[Oatmeal]

No, i do not say you need to read more. And a bok is a solid choice.

He says, suggesting more reading

When I say old fashioned and out of style, just pointing out that a boka is not "cool" any more- ccvm is the new "hottie" that tempts.

I built a 3" boka in the spring and after running it in all manner of ways, think it's an excellent tool with a broad range- strip, pot still, and reflux with a broad range of turn down...

[drmiller100]

The plans I've been referring to show a 1/4" brass needle valve. I already know that brass isn't the right material. But is the diameter correct? I see "swagelock" in 1/4" for around 30 dollars and on up to around 60 dollars for 316 stainless. I know that a larger diameter in a worm setup is better, but would the same Theory apply to the takeoff? Perhaps 3/8" or 1/2"?

Brass is bad?

[still_stirrin]

Brass is bad?

Some brass has lead in the alloy. So, it kind of depends on what type of brass and how it was made.

Since the website advocates safe practice, it is impossible to unilaterally agree to brass as acceptable. You’re going to need to do more investigation.
ss

[drmiller100]

Brass is bad?

website advocates safe practice,

Ok.

[Saltbush Bill]

It's so old fashioned it's out of style

just pointing out that a boka is not "cool"

Every day I see things that are consider "cool" and "in style" ,many of those things are pieces of s%#t that don't work ,or break after little use.
What is fashionable one day is often not the next, be that cloths, cars or stills.
Bokas are not one of those things, they do a job and they will do it damn well.

And a bok is a solid choice.

[DRHillier]

It's so old fashioned it's out of style

just pointing out that a boka is not "cool"

Every day I see things that are consider "cool" and "in style" ,many of those things are pieces of s%#t that don't work ,or break after little use.
What is fashionable one day is often not the next, be that cloths, cars or stills.
Bokas are not one of those things, they do a job and they will do it damn well.

And a bok is a solid choice.

I don't give 2 shits about cool. Lol there's so many different types of still out there, I'm sure they all do a great job. I had to pick something to build and I think it's gonna be the boka. Still working on getting ahold of that keg right now. Looks like once I've got a good boiler, I can put whatever I want to on top. Knowing me I'm sure I'll build something else after that as well. I like to build things and make them work. After that I'm not easily entertained. I find flaws, try to improve them, or set it aside and try something different. It probably won't look great when I'm done, but it'll work. I know you're not criticizing the boka so don't take that wrong. I was just stating a fact. I don't care about what's cool. (I drive a subaru forester)

[still_stirrin]

… I don't care about what's cool. (I drive a subaru forester) …

At least it’s not an AMC Pacer! That would really be UNCOOL.

[DRHillier]

… I don't care about what's cool. (I drive a subaru forester) …

At least it’s not an AMC Pacer! That would really be UNCOOL.

If I could find an AMC eagle, I'd totally rock that. All wheel drive straight 6. 8mpg. Awesome car