Reliable Amp/volt meter

[foolproof]

Can one of you fine gentleman suggest a good meter to mount in my still dragon 220v diy kit?

[bunny]

I like my DROK 100105 AC 100-300 100A $20 Amazon (maybe less elsewhere)

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[foolproof]

Excellent, thank you.

[Yummyrum]

Just make sure you connect the voltage to read the input voltage , not the element voltage and it won’t burn out .

You basically are only using the current meter as the voltage meter is always showing supply voltage not the element voltage .

[foolproof]

Will do fella, thanks for the tip!

[shadylane]

Just make sure you connect the voltage to read the input voltage , not the element voltage and it won’t burn out .

You basically are only using the current meter as the voltage meter is always showing supply voltage not the element voltage .

Somebody needs to find a meter that has a power source wire that's separate from the voltage needing to be measured.
All the cheap meters I've found don't survive very long being powered by the saw tooth waveform from our controllers.

[Yummyrum]

So true Shady , funny you say that , I was just thinking as I posted above , why can’t we hack a common meter and add an external power supply so it don’t burn out . Can’t be that hard .

[Kindafrench]

Use an volt/amp meter with a coil. They never get into stress, because the current isn‘t measured through the device, only through the coil. Connect the whole thing before your controller, not after! So you avoid the PWMed sinewave anyway.
I bought one of these and I‘m very happy with it.

[Yummyrum]

Use an volt/amp meter with a coil. They never get into stress, because the current isn‘t measured through the device, only through the coil. Connect the whole thing before your controller, not after! So you avoid the PWMed sinewave anyway.
I bought one of these and I‘m very happy with it.

Its not the measuring of the current that fries these meters . What the problem is is that they need power to operate .
The internal circuitry that derives this power takes it from the Voltage Measuring connection.
Unfortunately , when connected to a Phase controller ( read : SSRVr , SCR controller etc ) , the pulsed waveform , especially at lower power settings stresses out the components in the Volt/Amp meter that supply its power to operate , and they burn out.

Hence why they need to have the voltage measuring wires connected ti the input , not the output of the controller

[Demy]

I've been using this simple voltimeter for more than 2 years and I've never had any problems. Maybe he will burn over the years but for now he holds good. It is connected after the SCR voltage regulator.

[bunny]

I'm probably doing it wrong. I'm only running 120vac, however my DROK shows voltage to the element and the ammeter shows the amperage. I have checked this by measuring the voltage across the element with a vom and the amp draw with an ancient amprobe and the numbers are very close.

These are actual numbers.

[bluefish_dist]

No need to measure the output side of the controller other than current. Power is simply input voltage and current. If you do that the meter will have a long life. When measuring the input voltage you can still see when the voltage sags due to grid load or your load. Some of the meters calculate power and display it, means you don’t even have to do math anymore to know your power.

[shadylane]

I've given up on digital amp/volt meters
Now I use an analog AC volt meter and have a chart to convert what the meter shows into watts.
Bubba uses an analog amp meter that has been "calibrated" to directly show wattage with his 4500w heaters.
In other words, he covered the numbers on the dial with paper then marked in the watts.

[Kindafrench]

Voltmeter on the outputside. That‘s what I did on my first controller. Works very well and is easy to read. Not like my new digital backlit lcd volt/ampmeter, which is hardly readable from any angle other than front. Well, bad and cheap design has it‘s payoffs.

[Yummyrum]

I use an analog AC volt meter

Me too Shady

Bubba uses an analog amp meter that has been "calibrated" to directly show wattage with his 4500w heaters.
In other words, he covered the numbers on the dial with paper then marked in the watts.

I like that

[Demy]

Voltmeter on the outputside. That‘s what I did on my first controller. Works very well and is easy to read. Not like my new digital backlit lcd volt/ampmeter, which is hardly readable from any angle other than front. Well, bad and cheap design has it‘s payoffs.

Same thing. The voltimeter I published above is very cheap and is well. Only one hole for installation. I don't know why the others are burned immediately, but mine is the only visual indicator that I have, so connect it upstream would not make sense in my case.

[Andrew_90]

Use an volt/amp meter with a coil. They never get into stress, because the current isn‘t measured through the device, only through the coil. Connect the whole thing before your controller, not after! So you avoid the PWMed sinewave anyway.
I bought one of these and I‘m very happy with it.

I can only but second this puppy.

[Birrofilo]

I bought this:



No wiring to make, no worries about possible wrong connections, decently cheap, gives several measures, works, can be used with any appliance. Maximum applicable power 3680W. You can also set your electricity cost and measure the cost of a run.

Link doesn't show for some reason. Anyway, ASIN is B07CWRBPH7 and make is Zaeel. It's a plug-in type. You plug the measurer in the socket, the instrument has a socket where you plug your appliance.

[foolproof]

Nice. I’m assuming they make a US version.

[Kindafrench]

I bought this:



No wiring to make, no worries about possible wrong connections, decently cheap, gives several measures, works, can be used with any appliance. Maximum applicable power 3680W. You can also set your electricity cost and measure the cost of a run.

Link doesn't show for some reason. Anyway, ASIN is B07CWRBPH7 and make is Zaeel. It's a plug-in type. You plug the measurer in the socket, the instrument has a socket where you plug your appliance.

At the beginning of my journey I used a similar plug. It‘s rated 16A/230V so it was fine to use, but got a bit warm on the outside. Ok to touch, just felt a bit odd and I don‘t like the idea that it might got hotter on the inside. So I stopped using it, aside it was a pita to read the display. If it stays cool, contacts clean, why not. I try to keep the amount of plugs and sockets as low as possible in the power chain. Power loss equals heat and that‘s never getting better over time.

[Setsumi]

just commisioned my control box. volts on input side of the SCR, amp CT after SCR. fingers crossed it will last a while.

IMG_20210318_065454.jpg (10.42 KiB) Viewed 1628 times

[Yummyrum]

Hey there Setsumi .

I’ve been looking at those Aviation connectors .They seem to tick all the boxes .Just looking though old builds and seen you used them .
How have you found them to work ?
I’m keen to use them .

[Tōtōchtin]

This meter seems to be at a fair price.
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005002475255535.html
Tōtō