Buy vs Convert keg

[elbono]

It sucks that a company can't answer a simple tech question, but that seems to be more common these days. It infuriates me, but that's because I handle tech questions every day in my job.

I was that guy, customer calls distributor, if they're persistent they get the manufacturer's phone number, talk to our sales people, make it up the food chain to the guy that gave them my name and number with a warning I was a grump but knew everything about our products. I answered some pretty bizarre questions but some pretty interesting ones too. I'm very glad there was a filter before they got to me.

[Homebrewer11777]

Good question @rubberduck71... guess I got lucky. I used these heating elements:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ ... 100_tc.htm
mine measure 8.5 inches to the surface of the flange and just about touch. I was able to slip a paper between them but they held it in place. I've done about 9 runs and see no sign of ill effect on the elements so far. Here is a picture. If you are worried about it perhaps you could swap one or both for the slingblade version.

[Salt Must Flow]

^ ^ ^ Well that pic wrecked my theory. I thought they welded the ferrules at an angle so the elements couldn't touch.

[Homebrewer11777]

Keg was not designed to be a boiler...it was designed for storing and propagating yeast. Still seems to be exceptional value. If you have 240V service could go with one element and put a boiler thermometer on the other port.

Oh in regards to question up above the gasket in the racking arm is a black type SMS-38. My googling efforts suggest this is EPDM FDA grade and appears to be promoted (by gasket manufacturers not by Kent) as being ok for ethanol and moderate heat. But it is easily swapped out if there is another material that makes you feel safer such as PTFE. The ball valve I used on that port is sold as PTFE lined.

[Salt Must Flow]

People concerned about using two 240V ULWD elements in those Kent Keg Boilers should be ok. The elements can be rotated 360 degrees and the wavy portion can avoid the perpendicular element's wavy portion if that makes sense.

Just rotate one of the elements 45 degrees.

Orient the perpendicular element similar to this and the elements should not contact the eachother.

[Sean_Jeremy]

Make sure you can get the heater you want with a 1 1/2" triclamp fitting.

Doh!! Made a stupid mistake in my excitement, guess this is how we learn. Not sure why I had it in my mind that is was all 2" ports, probably because I was also debating what size head unit to go with. Obviously need to get a few more 1.5" TC fittings now and the element I got from OakStills with their controller is 2"....so that'll sit unused until a yet unknown date. It's like I'm building a real production facility with extra parts to spare!

After I place this final order (and a few replacement items arrive for OakStills) I'll be all good to go. I think.

[Homebrewer11777]

The elements I linked are solid for this keg. Brewhardware may not be major vendor in this community but I've used him for years on the beer brewing side and have always be very happy with the service and quality of the products he carries.

[Dancing4dan]

Standard keg here is a 2" opening that accepts 2" triclamps. Everything I built has been 2" for that reason. Cheap, easy and available anywhere. Modular and everything is interchangeable and inter connectable. Every piece of stilling equipment I have is 2" tri clamps except my steam still lyne arm which is 3/4".

I looked hard at buying a prebuilt still early on. Sure glad I didn't. Built a few stills for far less than the cost of one purchased still.

Converting a Keg at its simplest level involves removing the stem and heating on propane. Or add a 2" tri clamp ferrule for a electric element.

[Homebrewer11777]

I’ve got a lot of TC bits from my home brewing. Liked the option to go with 3” still head as it fits the site glass I have for dry hopping. Also charging the still through the 4” port is nice.. I suppose not as nice as a 6” but glad I’m not limited to 2” port,

The concern about the drain is reasonable but I’ve dealt with similar drains on mash tuns and kettles so was no brainer to hook up a bit of hose. It is well fit and leaves only about a pint behind. Not as nice as your bottom drain but definitely serviceable.

I built my controller from parts. Ordered two from StillDragon but never came. I emailed and called . Left vms, many times and never got a response. Not clear if they kept my money…good reminder to revisit.

[elbono]

the element I got from OakStills with their controller is 2"....so that'll sit unused

If the element you have will fit through the 1 1/2 port you could use an end cap reducer. It would back the element out an inch though.
2 Inch × 1.5 Inch Sanitary Fitting End Cap Reducer Stainless Steel 304 https://a.co/d/3bahM08

[Sean_Jeremy]

the element I got from OakStills with their controller is 2"....so that'll sit unused

If the element you have will fit through the 1 1/2 port you could use an end cap reducer. It would back the element out an inch though.
2 Inch × 1.5 Inch Sanitary Fitting End Cap Reducer Stainless Steel 304 https://a.co/d/3bahM08

Unfortunately the element is too bulky to fit into the hole or else I'd totally go the reducer route. In a moment of frustration I considered drilling out the TC fitting and replacing it with a 2" compression fitting....I'll have to price things out, but it does seem foolish to remove a welded fitting for a compression.

[elbono]

I considered drilling out the TC fitting and replacing it with a 2" compression fitting....I'll have to price things out, but it does seem foolish to remove a welded fitting for a compression.

You can probably find an 1 1/2 element. Better and maybe cheaper than all that.
DERNORD 1.5" Inch (OD50.5mm) Tri-clamp Ripple Heating Element Electric Immersion Water Heater 5500W 240V https://a.co/d/hr25AFB

[higgins]

For brewing I have always used propane either outdoors or in a garage with the door partially open. About 4 years ago I wanted to convert to electric so I could brew inside. I bought a 240v 5500W Denord triple ripple element that has a 1" thread on it with a 1" nut and gasket. I used this on my 15 gallon (56 L) Blichmann brew kettle, and it worked very well so I could brew inside.

Then I started distilling. I had a few small batches (only about 3-4 gal low wines) that I wanted to run, but was worried about exposing the element. So I decided to try bending the element in a semi-circle (See note below). I put the LW in the big pot and placed a covered, weighted, 4 gal (15 L) pot in the center of the big pot. This caused the liquid level to go up to about the 7 gallon mark, and it ran fine keeping the element covered.

After acquiring a 15.5 (58 L) gal keg for a stilling kettle, I added a 4" TC fill port and a 1.5" TC element port. I bought a new element, a 240v 3500W straight Denord w 1.5" TC connection. I bent this element too, but only at a slight angle (downward). This worked great, but I wanted to be able to use my 5500 element when stripping, so I bought a 1.5" TC to 1" FPT adapter and put that on my 5500.

Here it is in my 15.5 keggle (viewed thru the 4" fill port):

Here's what it looks like out of the keggle:

element.jpg (14.53 KiB) Viewed 2491 times

A closeup of the adapter on the 5500:

I can use either element on the keggle. I added a 1.5" TC ferrule to my Blichmann pot so I can use either element in that, and I've also got a 7.75 gal (29 L) sanke keg that I use as a steam generator that can use either. Makes it very versatile.

NOTE: while researching about bending heating elements, I learned that some elements have glass in them and can't be bent. Both of mine are Denord brand and both of them bent without issue.

[Sean_Jeremy]

I considered drilling out the TC fitting and replacing it with a 2" compression fitting....I'll have to price things out, but it does seem foolish to remove a welded fitting for a compression.

You can probably find an 1 1/2 element. Better and maybe cheaper than all that.
DERNORD 1.5" Inch (OD50.5mm) Tri-clamp Ripple Heating Element Electric Immersion Water Heater 5500W 240V https://a.co/d/hr25AFB

Yup, that's the one I had found as well, seems like that's the plan. Going to order it tonight along with the appropriate clamps and gaskets.

Thanks!

[Homebrewer11777]

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ ... lade31.htm

Think this would work well.

[rubberduck71]

Good question @rubberduck71... guess I got lucky. I used these heating elements:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ ... 100_tc.htm
mine measure 8.5 inches to the surface of the flange and just about touch. I was able to slip a paper between them but they held it in place. I've done about 9 runs and see no sign of ill effect on the elements so far. Here is a picture. If you are worried about it perhaps you could swap one or both for the slingblade version.

IMG_0162.jpeg

THIS is what I was wondering about. So your elements are 8.5" from tip of element to where they go into the triclamp flange? I found these on Dernord site on Amazon:
They are 165 mm (6.5") for what I think is the same measurement parameters (i.e. shorter so more clearance from left & right elements)???

Please let me know what you think.

Even with shipping, it's a pretty damn good price.

[Homebrewer11777]

Yes seems like a good price, I guess less than half what I paid though I wanted the extra watts. The electrical connection looks a little different. I like being able to disconnect my cord at the element and not sure these will work that way.

[rubberduck71]

Yes seems like a good price, I guess less than half what I paid though I wanted the extra watts. The electrical connection looks a little different. I like being able to disconnect my cord at the element and not sure these will work that way.

What did you use to close off the Racking Arm port? The pic is cut off on the website. Is it tri-clamp as well?

[Salt Must Flow]

Yes seems like a good price, I guess less than half what I paid though I wanted the extra watts. The electrical connection looks a little different. I like being able to disconnect my cord at the element and not sure these will work that way.

What did you use to close off the Racking Arm port? The pic is cut off on the website. Is it tri-clamp as well?

image.png

That's just a Tri-Clamp connection. A Tri-Clamp end cap would close it off.

[Homebrewer11777]

It is 1.5" TC flange. I added a TC ball valve and a TC elbow followed by a foot or so of silicone tubing. The drain works great. Leaves behind maybe a pint of liquid at end of the run. Give a a quick rinse with a hose, drain the rinse and then dump the whole thing over a 5 gallon bucket.

Wow just checked their site again and see they have a 26 gallon keg same ports for $10 more...$159 plus shipping.

I really think they must have made some sort of inventory mistake on these. This cheaper than buying a new keg with a single 2" port, at least at retail level. Yes I know there are ways to get kegs for price of a deposit but tough to advocate stealing when reasonable price legit purchase is easily available.