8" plates

[Setsumi]

I agree but two individual plates would be sexier, even if it means two more ferules and clamps.
Most likely the decision will be made after I try tig welding copper sheet to a SS ferule .
Here's what I'll try if it doesn't work then plan B.

I need to spent a month of Sundays with you in your shed.

Maybe buba can visit as well?

[shadylane]

I need to spent a month of Sundays with you in your shed.

Maybe buba can visit as well?

You would be welcome.
Seems like every year there's fewer of us having barn parties.

[Setsumi]

I need to spent a month of Sundays with you in your shed.

Maybe buba can visit as well?

You would be welcome.
Seems like every year there's fewer of us having barn parties.

Ja, if only there were a tarmac over the atlantic. But we could have a ball.!!! Good wishes for 2026, may you and your close once have a soft year.

[shadylane]

Ja, if only there were a tarmac over the atlantic. But we could have a ball.!!! Good wishes for 2026, may you and your close once have a soft year.

I've never had anyone wish me a "soft year", but I like the sound of it.

[zach]

Here's a question, my original plan was to have 2 plates in a common shell.
Since I only plan on needing 2 plates this would save on ferules, clamps and welding.
Or should I go full modular and have each plate individual?

I'm thinking 2 plates in a common shell to keep the cost down on a project I'm working on. I've been studying armagnac designs and it looks like 2 plates per section is the norm.

This manufacturer has a bead rolled for an internal shelf for the intermediate plate in each section. which would also make the section more rigid. I have a roll of 24 gauge copper and am thinking to build a 4" prototype with two plates and stainless ferrules.

SOFAC.jpg

armagnac.jpg

[shadylane]

Time to start practicing my tig welding.
If the tig doesn't work I'll try using Harris stay-brite #8 and stay-clean flux.

[shadylane]

I'm not sure of the best way to getter done. So I'll start with scrap and practice.
First attempt will be welding the copper to the SS using only the copper for filler.

[Saltbush Bill]

How are the plates being attached?

[shadylane]

The plates will be soft soldered inside the shell.

[Copperhead road]

The plates will be soft soldered inside the shell.

Have you decided on your plate design yet Shady?

[shadylane]

The plates will be soft soldered inside the shell.

Have you decided on your plate design yet Shady?

Not yet other than it will be bubble caps.
1st I'll figure out how to connect the 8" fittings to the shell.

[Yummyrum]

Did you end up getting a short length of 8” or is that a roll of copper Shady ?

[shadylane]

It's a 12" x 120" roll of 18 gauge (.040 inches) thick.

[Yummyrum]

Got it .
Hence the need to practice the TIG

[shadylane]

Each 8" ferule has a 25" circumference, and I'll need 3 - 5 of them.
Damn that's 75" to 125" inches of welding just to connect the SS ferules to the copper outer shell.
If I can get past that problem the rest will be easy.

[Yummyrum]

Damn .
Sounds like a good reason to solder the ferrules on .

[shadylane]

I agree except It would be good to have the ends done at high temp that way I can use low temp options to seal the plates.
So I don't have to worry about "unsoldering" the ends while installing the plates.

[Saltbush Bill]

Soft solder plates ,silver solder ends or visa versa.

[30xs]

Since you have the lathe you could chuck the ferrules up and machine a register on the top ferrule for your plate to rest on. Some 3” copper hammered flat for your plates would allow quick easy removal of the plates and the ability to swap plates easily if you want to try something else. Downside is it would be only one plate per module. I hope that made sense. I’ll see if I can find a picture of mine.

[shadylane]

Since you have the lathe you could chuck the ferrules up and machine a register on the top ferrule for your plate to rest on. Some 3” copper hammered flat for your plates would allow quick easy removal of the plates and the ability to swap plates easily if you want to try something else. Downside is it would be only one plate per module. I hope that made sense. I’ll see if I can find a picture of mine.

I hear Ya but the lathe chuck isn't big enough to handle an 8" ferule.

[30xs]

IMG_2827.png

Hopefully you can see what I did from the picture.

[30xs]

Since you have the lathe you could chuck the ferrules up and machine a register on the top ferrule for your plate to rest on. Some 3” copper hammered flat for your plates would allow quick easy removal of the plates and the ability to swap plates easily if you want to try something else. Downside is it would be only one plate per module. I hope that made sense. I’ll see if I can find a picture of mine.

I hear Ya but the lathe chuck isn't big enough to handle an 8" ferule.

Inside chuck?

[shadylane]

Inside chuck?

Tried that too, but my chuck just isn't big enough.

[shadylane]

I've been too lazy to cut and weld copper, but the sight glasses came in today.

[shadylane]

Got a question, has anyone tried soldering SS to copper using a 500w iron? I'm thinking use a torch for preheat then use the big soldering iron for the final soldering to avoid burning the flux. Just asking since I have a tendency to burn flux with a torch.

[Yummyrum]

Not used an iron that big but did use a heat gun on some thin SS sucessfully . Think it had three settings up to 1500w .
Makes tinning the SS easy with no flux burn

[shadylane]

Not used an iron that big but did use a heat gun on some thin SS sucessfully . Think it had three settings up to 1500w .
Makes tinning the SS easy with no flux burn

Damn, never thought about using a heat gun. See Ya latter I'm heading to Amazon to spend more money. Since lots of copper is involved, I'll see if a 1800w heat gun for preheat and old 500w iron can getter done. Each plugged into a different circuit.

[shadylane]

Makes tinning the SS easy with no flux burn

Tin the SS first. Sounds good If I can do that 95% of the task is already done.

[shadylane]

Tried using the heat gun alone and it didn't have enough umph. Tried it again with the iron and failed. Drug out the torch and failed again. The solder will only bead up and not flow. Harris Stay-Brite #8 Silver Bearing Solder with Stay-Clean flux. A flap wheel was used to sand the SS ferule.

[shadylane]

IMG_2827.png

Hopefully you can see what I did from the picture.

Thanks for the idea. I see it and will do something similar.

For now, I'm still scratching my head and trying to figure out how to connect the SS ferules to the copper, soldering and brazing didn't work good enough. Based on practicing with scrap it looks like Tig and ERCuSi-A Silicon Bronze Copper Alloy filler rod is going to be the best option.
Age is making this project more difficult. Hands shaking can actually work for an advantage.
But old eyes and glare from wearing glasses really sucks. If Ya can't see, Ya can't weld. I hate to say it, but I'll probably farm out the welding job to someone more experienced and younger that needs the money.

Here's your pic so folks will know what it's about.