2" tri clamp heating rod gasket

[CuriousRay]

As my previous still selection fell through because someone is having a disagreement somewhere, I am now slowly building my still (piece by piece). I have selected a 36L still with three heating options: Gas, Induction and Heating rod (not all at once).

I am looking at the heating rod (240v 2500w) and am wondering if because of the heat I will require a different tri clamp gasket or if a silicone gasket would be the correct choice.

If you could steer me in the right direction I would be grateful.

Thank you
Ray...

[Salt Must Flow]

The description and/or pics of the item should say what kind of connection it is as well as the size. Do you have a link to the heating element? EDIT: Just realized you were asking about PTFE or Silicone. PTFE is ideal.

Do you have a link to the boiler? If you have a large enough ID, you could use a higher wattage ULWD element if you will be using a controller. That will give you faster heat-up time, lower watt density (reduces potential of scorching) and it would be even lower watt density when operated at lower power like 2500W.

[MooseMan]

As my previous still selection fell through because someone is having a disagreement somewhere, I am now slowly building my still (piece by piece). I have selected a 36L still with three heating options: Gas, Induction and Heating rod (not all at once).

I am looking at the heating rod (240v 2500w) and am wondering if because of the heat I will require a different tri clamp gasket or if a silicone gasket would be the correct choice.

If you could steer me in the right direction I would be grateful.

Thank you
Ray...

I would recommend you aim for a great deal more wattage than 2500 Ray!
I have a 100L (26gal) boiler that runs on total 6000w, and the heat up times on a full charge annoy me.

PTFE gasket, by the way.

[CuriousRay]

PTFE is ideal

Thank you. I do have some PTFE but they are rather stiff and difficult to insert. I think a little heat and brute force may be in order.

I would recommend you aim for a great deal more wattage than 2500 Ray!

If you have a large enough ID, you could use a higher wattage

I agree with both of you about upping the wattage. Suggestions on an appropriate wattage would be appreciated, pretty please.

Saying that however, before I do anything I need to replace my existing electrical system all the way through as my "distillery" (read shed) was never envisioned to take more than lighting and a few small seed heaters, it's only 16A and the cables just wont take it either. Until the time I can replace the cables, 2500w it is

It's a 240v system and I am thinking to upgrade to a 40A RCD which should allow me 8000w continuous, and maybe add a sub board in the shed, but, mice and men and all that.....

Anyway, thanks for your help

[shadylane]

240v X 16amp = 3800w derate that to 80% = 3kw.
Using a 2.5kw heater would leave a little overhead for lights in the shed.
I figure that would make a good match for a 36L boiler.

[Salt Must Flow]

I've always used a 30A breaker, appropriate gauge wire and 5500W elements. If you will be wiring it yourself, consider installing two 240V circuits & receptacles if possible. I ended up making use of multiple 240V receptacles and I was really glad I thought ahead.

[BlackStrap]

240v X 16amp = 3800w derate that to 80% = 3kw.
Using a 2.5kw heater would leave a little overhead for lights in the shed.
I figure that would make a good match for a 36L boiler.

Agree with Shadylane.
I've wired both places that are setup to run my still with dedicated outlets just for the still... Any problems arise it's a separate breaker to the still, so if it happens that I am running at night the lights still work...Unless it's a power outage (not uncommon this time of year)

[CuriousRay]

I will use the 2500w heater for the time being, but taking all other considerations aside, what sized heating element would you recomend for a 36 litre still?

I will use that to calculate up to decide what I need to install.

Thank you

[shadylane]

Just guessing around 400w per gallon is the most a wash can handle before puking becomes a problem.
36L is around 9.5 gal so a 3.5 - 4kw heater would be good.

[CuriousRay]

Just guessing around 400w per gallon is the most a wash can handle before puking becomes a problem.
36L is around 9.5 gal so a 3.5 - 4kw heater would be good.

Thank you.

Time now to make my cunning plan

[shadylane]

Given the choice, I'd use two elements rated @ 2kw each to power a 9gallon pot.
Spreading the heat over two elements will allow more power total before scorching or puking becomes a problem.
In other words, a lower watt density.
4Kw would have more than enough power for heating 36L so figure on needing a controller during a run.

[shadylane]

I am looking at the heating rod (240v 2500w) and am wondering if because of the heat I will require a different tri clamp gasket or if a silicone gasket would be the correct choice.

Heat isn't a problem, a standard silicon seal used with tri-clamp fittings has a working temp of -58°F to 400°F.
A PTFE seal would work but would also be more likely to leak than silicone.

[J A]

240 V 5500 W element with wattage controller is what I use for 15 gallon boil pot for beer wort and also for 12 gallon still boiler. Heats fast and then runs at 75% to 80% for maintaining boil for wort and about 65% to 75% for maintaining vapor velocity during distillation, depending on whether it's strip or spirit.

image.png

[higgins]

While those elements are called ULWD (Ultra Low Watt Density), the fact that it doubles back on itself 'doubles' the heat density where the parts of the element are right next to another. I think this can contribute to scorching in dirty washes, so I bent my 5500 into a rough circle to spread out the heat. I've never had a scorch and I run some fairly dirty washes. It's not pretty, but here it is:

[BigSwede]

Nice one Higgins. I have a very similar element, and mine were not only folded back like the original pic, the "return" loop portion was touching the outbound part. I was afraid to bend it like yours, so all I did was pull it apart slightly and add a few segments of stainless tube in between to hold them apart. I thought I'd wreck it if I bent it like yours.

Good to know it can be done. Function over form, all that, and we don't even see these things while they work.

[higgins]

Swede, this was specifically a Denord 5500W element from Amazon. I can't say whether or not one from another source would bend OK, but I have run many batches since I did this about 4 years ago.

[J A]

...the fact that it doubles back on itself 'doubles' the heat density where the parts of the element are right next to another. I think this can contribute to scorching in dirty washes...

I've used the Dernord 5500 element just as it came for probably over a thousand gallons of beer wort (arguably more likely to cause problems than most finished washes) as well as for stripping and spirit runs and never had any problem with it scorching anything.

[CuriousRay]

I have ordered the Dernord 2500w and will use that for the time being. I will have a chat with my local electrickerer and install a parallel cable and socket system then get him to switch it over and certify at some point. I can do all the donkey work reducing costs and there will be minimal disruption this way.

I may upgrade in the future by adding another port with a 1000w or 1500w heating element but will need to add another port, so its a future consideration for now.

[shadylane]

I have ordered the Dernord 2500w and will use that for the time being. I will have a chat with my local electrickerer and install a parallel cable and socket system then get him to switch it over and certify at some point. I can do all the donkey work reducing costs and there will be minimal disruption this way.

I may upgrade in the future by adding another port with a 1000w or 1500w heating element but will need to add another port, so its a future consideration for now.

Sounds like a good game plan. Make do with what you have and plan for the future.
Just out of curiosity have you made sure the heating element isn't too long for the 36l pot?

[CuriousRay]

Just out of curiosity have you made sure the heating element isn't too long for the 36l pot?

It was the first thing I did

There is of course the option of altering the shape to fit the way higgins did