Water Tempratures for Condenser

[Nagorg]

Hello,

I've tried finding good information on this but have come up short, or maybe just confused. (Newbie to the craft)

Is there any solid guidance for what temperature the water flowing into your condenser should be? (or not be?)

I'm guessing that typical tap temperature should typically be fine, or is it?

I'm asking because I do have a pre-chiller coil that I could run water through while having the coil in ice-water. This would certainly get that water cold. But can it be too cold?

[Salt Must Flow]

Cold or cool water is ideal. Average tap water temp is perfectly fine. When the water is cooler, you can use a slower flow rate. When the water is warm, you usually end up needing a higher flow rate.

[zach]

It depends on a number of factors including the surface area of your condenser relative to the input power to your boiler.

A large surface area can tolerate a lower flow rate with a higher outlet temperature with just normal tap water.

An undersized condenser will require more flow or a lower input temperature. If you have a use for the water like a lawn or garden to irrigate then a higher flow rate might be acceptable.

There is a calculator here to help estimate performance https://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.ph ... Calculator

[howie]

i think it's more important to have your water at a constant temp during a run, requiring a decent size water reservoir or some cooling equipment.
i use the 55KL pool so that's not a problem.
however, the pool varies from 16C in winter to 28C in summer so i have to make adjustments for that.
there is no way i can overpower the big 500mm shotgun condenser with full 2400w.
the smaller reflux shotgun condenser needs different cooling, more water in summer (28C), less in winter (16C)

[Yummyrum]

Hi Nagorg
Bottom line is no , there isn’t an ideal temp that fits all situations .

Critical mission is the alcohol leaving the condenser is condensed . If you can manage that …. Job done .

However…. There are quirky behaviour that does happen if the water is too cold or the flow is too fast . You can get shock cooling in the condenser that causes Huffing and Puffing . That is, where there is air sucking in the end of the condenser and liquid spirting out of it .

Does it matter ? Yes and no .

If you have a small funnel sitting below the outlet , instead of a nice steady flow or dribble into the funnel , a spurting condenser will spit alcohol all over the place often missing the funnel and ending up on the floor or splashing on the flames heating thw boiler ….. not good .

However if you have a big pan to collect in , then maybe not an issue .

So the trick is not so much the temperature of the incoming coolant water but rather the flow of it .As Howie mentioned , a constant cooling supply temp is best , then you can more easily control the flow of it .

The goal is to adjust the flow so that there is a temp gradient across the condenser .
Run your hand up the condenser . It should be cool at the bottom , warm in the middle , and burning hot at the top . This is the ideal way to run it to minimise Huffing .

[Nagorg]

Okay, thanks for the info and tips. My ground water will be a bit warmer in the Texas summer than the cooler months.

My condenser is a 2" 450mm copper shotgun from Oakstills. I'll be feeding the condenser directly off a garden hose, flow controlled by an inline valve.

If I do pre-chill the water by running it through a coil that's submerged in ice water before it enters the condenser, can that water be too cold? So cold that it might cause problems? If so, maybe I'm overthinking this and should skip the notion of pre-chilling in favor of accepting the natural temp and adjusting flow rate.

[Yummyrum]

Yes , use your ground water as is and keep your Ice for your drinks

[Nagorg]

Yes , use your ground water as is and keep your Ice for your drinks

Sounds good! Less to manage...

[PalCabral]

It's more important, I think, what temperature the product has when it exits the condenser. I aim for a temperature of the new make between 18C and 22C, at the spout on a spirit run.

The condensing water is just a medium to cool the vapors down and its' entry temp is related to how well your product condenser can do its' job.

[Nagorg]

Got it... Thanks @palcabral !

[Corn Cracker]

Im in the s.e reagion of this beutiful state, and my well water cools it just fine through a hose stretched across the drive, you should be golden man!

[Saltbush Bill]

Until someone comes along and parks a car on the hose as happened to another member of the forum.

[MooseMan]

Okay, thanks for the info and tips. My ground water will be a bit warmer in the Texas summer than the cooler months.

My condenser is a 2" 450mm copper shotgun from Oakstills. I'll be feeding the condenser directly off a garden hose, flow controlled by an inline valve.

If I do pre-chill the water by running it through a coil that's submerged in ice water before it enters the condenser, can that water be too cold? So cold that it might cause problems? If so, maybe I'm overthinking this and should skip the notion of pre-chilling in favor of accepting the natural temp and adjusting flow rate.

With a 2" copper shotgun you'll never have cooling issues unless you clamp it onto some beast of a boiler with like 10kw of stripping power, so your ground water will be totally fine.
Trim your flow rate to use the minimum water you can, to achieve condensed product at a sensible temp.

I often use the waste water from my shotgun for setting up the next ferment so I adjust flow rate to make it as hot as I need.
Or if you have a pool like Howie, that's a great way to get it warmed up.