What's your opinion on this still?

[DRHillier]

I've been browsing online and ran across this still. Anyone have any experience with it? Or any obvious faults you can see? I know it's a 2" column, but I think it'll suit my needs

https://moonshine-still.co/products/8gr ... ag_organic

[Deplorable]

You can build a better still cheaper. Take it frome someone who's been there, done that.
Can you solder? If the answer is yes, and you know your way around the web and a hardware store, you can build a better still cheaper.

[cob]

Unbelievably expensive.

[DRHillier]

You can build a better still cheaper. Take it frome someone who's been there, done that.
Can you solder? If the answer is yes, and you know your way around the web and a hardware store, you can build a better still cheaper.

That's pretty much my thought. Build something based off of this design. I'm not spending that much money on something like that, but I'm thinking I can replicate it. As far as soldering goes, I've done some. I've soldered copper pipes together to repair our air compressor at the shop. I'm not an expert, but I think I can make something work. Stainless is a different story. I own a mig welder, an arc welder and a plasma cutter, but no tig. I'll have to figure out how to get a stainless boiler to seal up to copper, and a port for an element as well. I've read a bunch on here about doing just that and I think I can pull it off somewhat, And use flour to finish the seal. I'm still reading about the electric elements, I've only got 1 240v outlet and that's in the house, so unless I run a new outlet from the breaker box I'm gonna be using 110. So aside from the price, do you see any fundamental flaws to that design?

[NorthWoodsAb]

You can build a better still cheaper. Take it frome someone who's been there, done that.
Can you solder? If the answer is yes, and you know your way around the web and a hardware store, you can build a better still cheaper.

+1

I bought almost identical set up. 3" column, all copper, 100L (26 gal) boiler SS. Looks great. Works ok.
Problem is with the top end and liebig. Product tiakeoff is too small and liebig PC inadequate, unless you want to spend extra hours on each run.
I'm sure I'm not the only one on site that bought units like this. I know Deplorable commented about it when I made a similar post last year, after my purchase, and unsatisfactory results from my product.
Dollar wise you can do better. Nothing wrong with boiler, buy one if size suits your needs. Column is just copper tubing. What needs attention is the top end and product condenser. Don't waste the money on it now because you will upgrade it down the road.
Cheers

[HDNB]

Unbelievably expensive.

wow. that's an understatement.

[Saltbush Bill]

Its a rip off at that price , could build 3 like that for the money.........not that you would, its not a great design for a reflux still anyway.
Id start by steering clear of anything that claims to be "Duel Purpose" and most things that run a jacketed column claiming to be a "reflux still"
There are far better and easier ways imo.

[Setsumi]

You say you have skills to build yourself, all you need is to copy a build from here. If you want an easy reflux look into CCVM. Read a bit on VM and LM or Bokakop on here and you will have a good understanding what and how to build yourself.

[subbrew]

I did not see the column height but looking at the photo I am guessing you would only get perhaps 30 inches of packing. That is really not enough for good reflux in a 2 inch column.

Also, looks like it does not come with a heating element. And I don't see the SCR rating any place so not sure how much power that controller can handle.

[Deplorable]

You can build a better still cheaper. Take it frome someone who's been there, done that.
Can you solder? If the answer is yes, and you know your way around the web and a hardware store, you can build a better still cheaper.

That's pretty much my thought. Build something based off of this design. I'm not spending that much money on something like that, but I'm thinking I can replicate it. As far as soldering goes, I've done some. I've soldered copper pipes together to repair our air compressor at the shop. I'm not an expert, but I think I can make something work. Stainless is a different story. I own a mig welder, an arc welder and a plasma cutter, but no tig. I'll have to figure out how to get a stainless boiler to seal up to copper, and a port for an element as well. I've read a bunch on here about doing just that and I think I can pull it off somewhat, And use flour to finish the seal. I'm still reading about the electric elements, I've only got 1 240v outlet and that's in the house, so unless I run a new outlet from the breaker box I'm gonna be using 110. So aside from the price, do you see any fundamental flaws to that design?

Tell us what it is you intend to make, and we can tell you what to build that will suit your needs. I made the mistake of buying a very similar still. Well within my first year, all that remained of what I bought was the 13 gallon milk can boiler, and a 20 inch section of 2" spool.
Now, I've got a fully modular CCVM, to make great pot stilled spirits, and high ABV neutrals.
If you have the skills to solder, getting copper to stick to SS is just a matter of using the right solder, flux, and technique. If I can do it, so can you.
Read up on still builds, and dive in. Hell, even if you don't want to tackle SS to CU joints, you can always spend a tad more and buy the copper ferrules, but where's the challenge there?
Depending on how much you intend to make and consume, I'd suggest you consider a larger boiler as a base for your build.
Consider a 25 gallon ferment at 10% will net you about 1.5 gallons to age on wood at around 60%. Thats about 7.5 fifths before tempering to drinking strength.
With an 8 gallon boiler, you're in for a lot of work.
My suggestion is a 13 gallon can, or a keg build, start with propane heat source. Learn to use it as you work on building a power controller and convert to electric.

[DRHillier]

Hmm ok. I'll look at something else. I already screwed myself with the vevor still, not interested in doing it again. I'm gonna look around for a keg or 2. There's a bar down the street from me, the owner is an ex inlaw and maybe I can get my hands on something stainless. If I'm gonna build one I might as well go for a 3" column. Height won't be an issue since I'll be doing it in my carport or shed. I've been looking at so many different designs it's hard to make up my mind what kind I want. My needs are small. Maybe a gallon at a time if that? I'm diabetic and don't drink, at least I haven't in 3 or so years. But the idea of making something myself is appealing. It mixes science, art, and mechanics together and I like that. I'm sure I could have a drink here and there and not screw myself. I keep my numbers pretty on track. So I'll keep looking and reading. First step will be to find a good boiler. Thanks for the opinions everyone

[Deplorable]

Given that, a 8 gallon might not be so bad DRHiller.
A 5 gallon charge of low wines at ~30% gets a gallon and a half or so after cuts. So scale your whole operation to what you would consume, sharing with friends.
Since your consumption would be so low, you'll still build up a good amount of aging liquor. 15 to 20 gallon ferments would be what I'd target with a 8 gallon boiler. That'll net you enough low wines for a good boiler charge, and about 3 to 4 quarts to age.

[jonnys_spirit]

Smaller makes a lot of things easier but it doesn’t make producing more alcohol easier

You might also consider purchasing a primary milk can style boiler with all the ports you will eventually use already installed and welded - drain, thermo, heater 1, heater 2, fill port, column / riser port… then DIY a controller, riser, reflux, liebig - depending on whether you want to reflux or not.

Your boiler size will determine max low wines production in one run. About 1/4 to 1/3 boiler size.

Cheers!
-j

[SOWIWAB]

just do a 26 gallon SWIM laughed at 8gallons

[greggn]

I've only got 1 240v outlet and that's in the house, so unless I run a new outlet from the breaker box I'm gonna be using 110.

You need to reconcile your power needs with your power availability. You'll not want to run a keg boiler on 110v unless you modify it to accept multiple electric elements. That said, you'll not want those multiple elements on the same circuit so better to plan first then build/buy.