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Missing water in-out connections, didn't have them in stock.
The stills are outside but the product comes tubed inside the air conditioned lab to classify.
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That's it, congrats.Kentucky shinner wrote:the arm from the cap should be below the liquid in the thumper
and the cold water should exit from the top of the worm keg
Don't worry, I forgot that I have done one already, only need to change the sizes.Kentucky shinner wrote:do the bubble caps just set on the plate, unattached?
Hey red if its to much trouble don't worry with it. It would be greatly appreciated but I really think I have the understanding I was looking for with your 6" plate side shot of the caps.
so you would have to have some reliefs cut or drilled into the caps, like you have done on your pic. you have holes drilled around yours.rednose wrote: The caps will be soft soldered, the downcomers, vapor tubes and outside ring needs to be brazed, If you solder all soft you will have a solder salad.
That's it for everything else but the caps.Kentucky shinner wrote:how would it be if I used acetylene torch and used hard silver solder?
Yes Larry, I use copper caps. it's the only copper part in all my still.LWTCS wrote:Joe are you using copper caps?
I thought I remembered you had these fabricated already?
You didn't think we were just a bunch of toothless podunks making rotgut with a rusty re-purposed oil drum did you...??? This is where all of the new ideas come from, not from modern day distilleries where experimentation is frowned upon due to legal constraints... Not that everything we do around here is new... Improved might be a better word, perhaps...rockchucker22 wrote:Wow wow and wow, I just read through this whole thread and I am impressed to say the least!
Yes Larry, you missunderstood.LWTCS wrote:Say that again Joe.
Single floating bubble cap is proven for a while now.
Or did I misunderstand you.