After modifying my pot still, I needed to build a new condenser for it as the old one just could not keep up.
I came up with this item, and it works very well, VERY well. I thought I would share it with you.
It is 30 inches long with the cooling area at about 28 inches.
I found an oddball item, (you've seen the 3/4" flex/corregated copper for connecting water heaters to supply/service, yes?), well I found the same item, but 1/2" sized, and 15" long. I bought 2 of them, and used (after much practice) my tig welder to weld them together.
Then to maximize the cooling/corregated area, I opted out of using 'tee' fittings on the ends. This was also to keep the condenser as short as possible. I made up a jig to drill a 5/8" hole 'centered' in a 3/4" 'street el'. This turned out to be easier than expected, I would think you could do this without a drill press, but I have one, and I used it.
I have a hobby type lathe that I used to turn a guide bushing 3/8" hole through the center and turned to the outside diameter of 1/2" copper tubing which is 5/8". This is to drill a pilot hole for the finish hole, , ,
, , ,which I just used a reducing bushing, 1/2" copper tube to 3/4" fitting. Its not plain to see in the pic, but theres a small verticle machined groove in the vise I used to keep the fitting parallel to the drill bit, I was afraid that slight less space would crimp the other end of fitting is why I used the street el. As it turns out, by simply placing bushing(s) in place, run drill down into bushing, and then tightening fitting in vise, everything will be lined up. 'Slowly' drill the pilot holes, and then setup for the 5/8" and, careful here!, drill through.
These are the end results ot my efforts. I had to fine tune the holes, (I used a dowel with emery cloth rolled around it, rather than a file. With the cloth it takes more effort to remove "Too Much" metal.
Not shown, but I soldered short bits of #12 copper wire in the center, and about halfway towards both ends, three at each location equally spaced around the inner corregated tube. The reason for this is because this corregated tube is quite flexable, and I wanted to insure it stays centered inside the 3/4" tube.
Next pic shows the condenser (one end of it, anyway) ready to solder. (note I ran the ends just far enough through the ell's to solder unions to each end).
- 5-solder-next.jpg (6.65 KiB) Viewed 6552 times
I used 'Harris' brand of 'silver solder' called "Blockade" which is intended for use in air conditioning copper work. When used, it is, when melted, quite thick, intended to fill gaps, (you can solder very sloppy joints with it). Anyway, the trick here is, as with all soldering, get it hot enough without getting it TOO hot, as it will thin out somewhat, the hotter it gets.
"To be continued" (5 attachments maximum!)
