Still on ebay.
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- Novice
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Still on ebay.
I saw this this still while searching on ebay, would it be worth bidding $125 on?? http://cgi.ebay.com/MOONSHINE-ETHANOL-S ... dZViewItem" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
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- Swill Maker
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Well the still doesn't look that bad compared to others, but you could build something very similar yourself if you had any handyman skills for under half the price. Just buy a cheap pot at a store and attach some copper pipe and fittings and thats almost it. Unless you got money to burn I would read some stuff on this site and try making on yourself in a little bit.
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- Master of Distillation
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I don't care for that.
There are lots of others here that run that kind of still tho...
not sure about the thumper... the boiler is the cheapest thing that could work. sealing the lid is a pain in the ass... If you really wanna make some shine, and want a reasonable return on your investment then I would go a different route. depends on your space and resources... You can do a lot better for the money...
There are lots of others here that run that kind of still tho...
not sure about the thumper... the boiler is the cheapest thing that could work. sealing the lid is a pain in the ass... If you really wanna make some shine, and want a reasonable return on your investment then I would go a different route. depends on your space and resources... You can do a lot better for the money...
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http://i9.ebayimg.com/04/i/000/c9/65/7a7f_1.JPG" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
I wonder about this flange, this looks like galvized stuff, bad deal if it is, even if it is on top of the lid, it accepts the threads from the copper pipe, there will be some contact. It looks cool but, I have to wonder.
I wonder about this flange, this looks like galvized stuff, bad deal if it is, even if it is on top of the lid, it accepts the threads from the copper pipe, there will be some contact. It looks cool but, I have to wonder.
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- Distiller
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that is a still from http://www.stilldrinkin.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow Several people have complained about non-delivery after payment and them not returning calls.
That is the model called the venom
That is the model called the venom
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- retired
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Stainless can have a pretty rough finish, the smooth brushed or polished finish that a lot of stainless has is just to make it look good. The finish on my stainless keg connector looks very similar to that flange.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s197 ... ection.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Note the difference between the finish on the keg and column, and the finish on the fittings.
I sure hope that flange ain't zinc plated mild steel.
That would be seriously irresponsible, especially seeing as that is a 'professionally made' still.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s197 ... ection.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Note the difference between the finish on the keg and column, and the finish on the fittings.
I sure hope that flange ain't zinc plated mild steel.



Be safe.
Be discreet.
And have fun.
Be discreet.
And have fun.
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- Bootlegger
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I see what you mean. Yours just looks less "bright" and has the characteristic dull gray I see in unpolished stainless.HookLine wrote:Stainless can have a pretty rough finish, the smooth brushed or polished finish that a lot of stainless has is just to make it look good. The finish on my stainless keg connector looks very similar to that flange.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s197 ... ection.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Note the difference between the finish on the keg and column, and the finish on the fittings.
I sure hope that flange ain't zinc plated mild steel.![]()
![]()
That would be seriously irresponsible, especially seeing as that is a 'professionally made' still.
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- Swill Maker
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Pretty sure that is galvonized.
It has the same markings that a flange I have bought from Lowes, that I use on my boiler.
Galvanised Metals
Tarvus explains ...
Galvanised materials are not safe to use on the condenser side, but if it's part of the boiler or at the bottom end of the column, it should be fine (provided you don't boil so vigorously that your wash bubbles up through your column and into your collecting container. Toxic salts from metals can be dissolved in liquid, but remain behind when the liquid is vaporized (as in a reflux column).
For example, you could toss a handful of lead fishing sinkers into your boiler which could well leach toxic levels of lead into the wash. But once the vapor runs through the column, it's free of the lead salts and safe. If you used lead based solder (or galvanized parts) in your CONDENSER, that would be a different story. The hot liquid condensate could leach lead salts from soldered joints or zinc from the galvanized parts and you would wind up with contaminated product.
It has the same markings that a flange I have bought from Lowes, that I use on my boiler.
This is from the main page if this isnt the truth then I need to change my flange.I wonder about this flange, this looks like galvized stuff, bad deal if it is, even if it is on top of the lid, it accepts the threads from the copper pipe, there will be some contact. It looks cool but, I have to wonder.
Galvanised Metals
Tarvus explains ...
Galvanised materials are not safe to use on the condenser side, but if it's part of the boiler or at the bottom end of the column, it should be fine (provided you don't boil so vigorously that your wash bubbles up through your column and into your collecting container. Toxic salts from metals can be dissolved in liquid, but remain behind when the liquid is vaporized (as in a reflux column).
For example, you could toss a handful of lead fishing sinkers into your boiler which could well leach toxic levels of lead into the wash. But once the vapor runs through the column, it's free of the lead salts and safe. If you used lead based solder (or galvanized parts) in your CONDENSER, that would be a different story. The hot liquid condensate could leach lead salts from soldered joints or zinc from the galvanized parts and you would wind up with contaminated product.
Read Please, Try it, Learn!
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That is technically true, Grainhopper, but there are at least four problems with that:
1. Even the best still operator cannot gaurantee there will never be any boil over.
2. Galvanised finishes will corrode in the hostile environment within the boiler, exposing the raw metal underneath (usually mild steel), which will also corrode, possibly causing leaks.
3. Getting toxic metallic salts into the wash probably means that you cannot use the backset/dunder in subsequent ferments.
4. There will always be some klutz who doesn't get it and uses the wrong materials in the wrong place.
I reckon it is just a whole lot easier to completely avoid these materials, and stick to stainless or copper in the first place. The cost difference is not significant, especially over the lifetime of a still, and taking into account the safety/health issue.
1. Even the best still operator cannot gaurantee there will never be any boil over.
2. Galvanised finishes will corrode in the hostile environment within the boiler, exposing the raw metal underneath (usually mild steel), which will also corrode, possibly causing leaks.
3. Getting toxic metallic salts into the wash probably means that you cannot use the backset/dunder in subsequent ferments.
4. There will always be some klutz who doesn't get it and uses the wrong materials in the wrong place.
I reckon it is just a whole lot easier to completely avoid these materials, and stick to stainless or copper in the first place. The cost difference is not significant, especially over the lifetime of a still, and taking into account the safety/health issue.
Be safe.
Be discreet.
And have fun.
Be discreet.
And have fun.
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- Master of Distillation
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- Master of Distillation
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It's a galvanised pipe flange, Goose.goose eye wrote:looks like a ole base they put on platform they use to screw swivel on for speed bags. new some ole boys that use to box a long while back . use em bases for railins to.
so im tole
You screw it too a piece of threaded 50mm (2") gal pipe, and you can bolt on other fittings for pumps, valves ect. You can get em in brass too. Maybe you could get em in stainless, but i've never seen em.

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I was bidding on the same still... but lost and in retrospect I was lucky.
Several minutes later the seller sent me a second chance offer, but I declined.
I put in a bid on another still on Ebay and won it for the same price, but it looks like a much better product:
http://cgi.ebay.com/5-gal-TILT-REFLUX-M ... dZViewItem" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
I bought this one.. as long as I receive it I'll be happy.
I started with a "wok" still and then used a Kenmore distiller and was never unhappy... but wanted a bit more. I think this will fit the bill.
I couldn't have built this for the same price. Again.. as long as I receive it I'll be happy!
Several minutes later the seller sent me a second chance offer, but I declined.
I put in a bid on another still on Ebay and won it for the same price, but it looks like a much better product:
http://cgi.ebay.com/5-gal-TILT-REFLUX-M ... dZViewItem" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
I bought this one.. as long as I receive it I'll be happy.
I started with a "wok" still and then used a Kenmore distiller and was never unhappy... but wanted a bit more. I think this will fit the bill.
I couldn't have built this for the same price. Again.. as long as I receive it I'll be happy!
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- Master of Distillation
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- Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2007 12:36 pm
- Location: Northern NSW Oz Trail Ya
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- Swill Maker
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Well I made myself a makeshift flange that will be interchangable columns.HookLine wrote:That is technically true, Grainhopper, but there are at least four problems with that:
1. Even the best still operator cannot gaurantee there will never be any boil over.
2. Galvanised finishes will corrode in the hostile environment within the boiler, exposing the raw metal underneath (usually mild steel), which will also corrode, possibly causing leaks.
3. Getting toxic metallic salts into the wash probably means that you cannot use the backset/dunder in subsequent ferments.
4. There will always be some klutz who doesn't get it and uses the wrong materials in the wrong place.
I reckon it is just a whole lot easier to completely avoid these materials, and stick to stainless or copper in the first place. The cost difference is not significant, especially over the lifetime of a still, and taking into account the safety/health issue.
Here are some pictures.
I did this to stabilize it some.
Read Please, Try it, Learn!
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- Master of Distillation
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