Grinding/Cracking/Gristing Whole Corn
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Grinding/Cracking/Gristing Whole Corn
Use this thread to post your experiences cracking/gristing corn and equipment/mods, etc.
Doing it on the Cheap: Corona Mill
Anybody who's used one of the roller type malt mills knows that most of them are made with a passive 2nd roller that makes grinding whole corn an exercise in frustration — the corn kernels just spin on top of the rollers instead of being pulled into it. And you may also be aware of the cost of one with a gear drive option that works with corn can be quite expensive. The old, comparatively inexpensive "Corona" type mills (made under different names), have been a staple among brewers, homemakers, etc., for a long time. They feed with an auger, not pinch rollers, and will feed whole kernel corn through it. Brewers complain that the hopper is small, and the grind uneven and have come up with their own solutions/mods for this. Homemakers complain that it just doesnt' go fine enough for a suitable flour without running it through several times.
None of those things are really much of an issue for the homedistiller looking to rough grind/crack corn or to make a coarse meal. The 2 larger problems for this mill for homedistiller would be that it's got a small hopper on top (2lbs at a time), and it's a hand cranker, and doesn't readily mount, or sit, over a bucket or other large container where — the plates are on the side, so the output can literally "spray" dust/corn if you run it hard (ie., with a drill).
Here's one idea, found on Homebrewtalk forums posted by Wilserbrewer, on how to make a selfcontained bucket system for your Corona mill that looks like it works a treat and would be very cheap to build: corona mill, 6 gallon plastic bucket with sturdy lid, scrap of 2x4, 6 drywall screws, large plastic bottle or funnel for hopper, and whatever is needed to chuck your drill to the shaft.
You start by cutting a scrap piece of 2x4 to fit in the bucket and notch it to mount the Corona. It sits "down" in the bucket so the very top of the mill (with hopper removed) is sitting about 3/4 inch or so under the very top and is screwed in place through the bucket into the 2x4 using drywall screws. A hole is drilled for the drive shaft so it will protrude from the side where a drill can mount to it.
Then, drill a hole directly over the hopper opening, and use an exacto knife to cut approximately 10 pie/wedge slices from the hole so that the top of your new hopper (a plastic water bottle, funnel or other device you wish to use), is held firmly in place and sits down "in" the metal hopper base of the Corona.
The final product:
Author says, you can mark grain amounts on whatever you use for a large hopper (plastic bottle, funnel, etc) so you no longer have to weigh each time....just fill hopper to line and let her rip. Claims the mounting holds it firmly in place no problems (but that is with malt...corn may give it a bit more torquing. I'd use 3 screws per side). The cover keeps dust down and everything in the bucket when run at speed. When finished, remove the top, and just pour the gristed corn out the other side. Out of all the mounting, etc., options I've seen for the Corona type mills, this is probably the best one I've seen that incorporates automated (drill) operation. Thought I'd share it here, with credit to Wilserbrewer from Homebrewtalk forums for the idea.
Doing it on the Cheap: Corona Mill
Anybody who's used one of the roller type malt mills knows that most of them are made with a passive 2nd roller that makes grinding whole corn an exercise in frustration — the corn kernels just spin on top of the rollers instead of being pulled into it. And you may also be aware of the cost of one with a gear drive option that works with corn can be quite expensive. The old, comparatively inexpensive "Corona" type mills (made under different names), have been a staple among brewers, homemakers, etc., for a long time. They feed with an auger, not pinch rollers, and will feed whole kernel corn through it. Brewers complain that the hopper is small, and the grind uneven and have come up with their own solutions/mods for this. Homemakers complain that it just doesnt' go fine enough for a suitable flour without running it through several times.
None of those things are really much of an issue for the homedistiller looking to rough grind/crack corn or to make a coarse meal. The 2 larger problems for this mill for homedistiller would be that it's got a small hopper on top (2lbs at a time), and it's a hand cranker, and doesn't readily mount, or sit, over a bucket or other large container where — the plates are on the side, so the output can literally "spray" dust/corn if you run it hard (ie., with a drill).
Here's one idea, found on Homebrewtalk forums posted by Wilserbrewer, on how to make a selfcontained bucket system for your Corona mill that looks like it works a treat and would be very cheap to build: corona mill, 6 gallon plastic bucket with sturdy lid, scrap of 2x4, 6 drywall screws, large plastic bottle or funnel for hopper, and whatever is needed to chuck your drill to the shaft.
You start by cutting a scrap piece of 2x4 to fit in the bucket and notch it to mount the Corona. It sits "down" in the bucket so the very top of the mill (with hopper removed) is sitting about 3/4 inch or so under the very top and is screwed in place through the bucket into the 2x4 using drywall screws. A hole is drilled for the drive shaft so it will protrude from the side where a drill can mount to it.
Then, drill a hole directly over the hopper opening, and use an exacto knife to cut approximately 10 pie/wedge slices from the hole so that the top of your new hopper (a plastic water bottle, funnel or other device you wish to use), is held firmly in place and sits down "in" the metal hopper base of the Corona.
The final product:
Author says, you can mark grain amounts on whatever you use for a large hopper (plastic bottle, funnel, etc) so you no longer have to weigh each time....just fill hopper to line and let her rip. Claims the mounting holds it firmly in place no problems (but that is with malt...corn may give it a bit more torquing. I'd use 3 screws per side). The cover keeps dust down and everything in the bucket when run at speed. When finished, remove the top, and just pour the gristed corn out the other side. Out of all the mounting, etc., options I've seen for the Corona type mills, this is probably the best one I've seen that incorporates automated (drill) operation. Thought I'd share it here, with credit to Wilserbrewer from Homebrewtalk forums for the idea.
Re: Grinding/Cracking/Gristing Whole Corn
Looks like he stole my dad's drill.
Looks like that should work well.
I have a CrankandStien 3-D roller. It's the 3 roller version and has a slightly bigger gap between the primary rollers, the third one is where gap adjustment is made. By adding a restricter plate in the bottom of the hopper, it does good with cracked corn. Doubt it would be good for whole corn though.
This is my restricter.
Looks like that should work well.
I have a CrankandStien 3-D roller. It's the 3 roller version and has a slightly bigger gap between the primary rollers, the third one is where gap adjustment is made. By adding a restricter plate in the bottom of the hopper, it does good with cracked corn. Doubt it would be good for whole corn though.
This is my restricter.
It is the very things that we think we know, that keep us from learning what we should know.
Valved Reflux, 3"x54" Bok 'mini', 2 liebig based pots and the 'Blockhead' 60K btu propane heat
Valved Reflux, 3"x54" Bok 'mini', 2 liebig based pots and the 'Blockhead' 60K btu propane heat
Re: Grinding/Cracking/Gristing Whole Corn
I can add the "Barley Crusher" works with "cracked corn", but not "whole corn". It struggles a bit getting through it through. Barley Crusher comes complete with hopper, mounting board that fits over a bucket, etc. And it's at 114.50 complete with hopper and base, its a good bit cheaper than some of the heavier duty mills. Works fantastic with malt/barley. Has adjustments for both rollers, and is etch marked for default setting. It's usable with a drill as well. Again, the trouble with these for "whole corn" is that only one roller is actually driven...others are passive. It wont' feed whole corn through.
http://www.barleycrusher.com/barleycrusher.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
http://www.barleycrusher.com/barleycrusher.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Re: Grinding/Cracking/Gristing Whole Corn
With any of the small roller mills, adding a restricter will greatly reduce jam-ups.
Mine restricts the feed to the center third of the roller.
Mine restricts the feed to the center third of the roller.
It is the very things that we think we know, that keep us from learning what we should know.
Valved Reflux, 3"x54" Bok 'mini', 2 liebig based pots and the 'Blockhead' 60K btu propane heat
Valved Reflux, 3"x54" Bok 'mini', 2 liebig based pots and the 'Blockhead' 60K btu propane heat
Re: Grinding/Cracking/Gristing Whole Corn
The Schmidling Malt Mill
There is a particular option for this mill that supposedly "will" allow it to work with whole kernel corn (although I have not tried...someone else will need to write a review). The "A" model adjustable, although my understanding is its only adjustable on "one" side if you get the gear option (143.00), add the "gear option" - only available on model A, so you can drive the 2nd roller (50.00) and the "corn option" to allow for wide enough spacing to accommodate whole kernel corn (30.00). That's 223.00.
http://schmidling.com/maltmill.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
There is a particular option for this mill that supposedly "will" allow it to work with whole kernel corn (although I have not tried...someone else will need to write a review). The "A" model adjustable, although my understanding is its only adjustable on "one" side if you get the gear option (143.00), add the "gear option" - only available on model A, so you can drive the 2nd roller (50.00) and the "corn option" to allow for wide enough spacing to accommodate whole kernel corn (30.00). That's 223.00.
http://schmidling.com/maltmill.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Re: Grinding/Cracking/Gristing Whole Corn
anybody come up with a solution for this? I'm thinking about getting a hardwood dowel for my crankandstein for one of the rollers that's slightly smaller diameter to help with whole corn..
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Re: Grinding/Cracking/Gristing Whole Corn
I built one of the corona mills in a bucket. I've used it to grind cracked corn, and cracked corn and wheat. I power mine with an 18 volt DeWalt cordless drill.
I goes through cracked corn and cracked corn with wheat like grass through a goose (no offense Goose Eye).
I've not tried it yet with uncracked corn but I'm almost certain that it will work a treat with that too.
I goes through cracked corn and cracked corn with wheat like grass through a goose (no offense Goose Eye).
I've not tried it yet with uncracked corn but I'm almost certain that it will work a treat with that too.
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Re: Grinding/Cracking/Gristing Whole Corn
Cracked corn is the same price as whole dried kernals... why go to the extra work and expense to crack yer own?
Do yall also make yer own gravel from big rocks?
Do yall also make yer own gravel from big rocks?
Re: Grinding/Cracking/Gristing Whole Corn
theholymackerel wrote:Cracked corn is the same price as whole dried kernals... why go to the extra work and expense to crack yer own?
It has been my experience with animal feed that cracked corn had more weevils in it and they were hard to see. The old timers never would crack or hammermill there corn until time to use it for two reasons. (1) It attracted bugs more after it was cracked. (2) They said it lost some of its good after it was cracked for a month or so (I always contributed this to it havin more insects in it).
Thats why I crack my own anyway..... I can also adjust the plates on the grinder for courseness.
Lately I have been malting my corn and useing it green after grinding it in the food processor with very good results.
Re: Grinding/Cracking/Gristing Whole Corn
im interested in it because what little i've been able to get run through my 2s looks very good and fresh compared to the cracked stuff i've done. Husks stay pretty much intact. However. Crankandstein sells the 220c which i'll upgrade to which can do whole con.
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Re: Grinding/Cracking/Gristing Whole Corn
Cracked corn is the same price as whole dried kernals... why go to the extra work and expense to crack yer own?
Do yall also make yer own gravel from big rocks?
Well, I live in the Pacific Northwest and I can get bulk corn for free, or almost not counting a sixer of quality home brew.
But I don't think, theholymackeral, that it's strong enough to grind rocks...
Life is hard, it's harder when you're stupid...
Re: Grinding/Cracking/Gristing Whole Corn
theholymackerel wrote:.......
Do yall also make yer own gravel from big rocks?
Well...didn't have much luck malting cracked corn
And the only source I have for bulk white corn is food grade whole kernel. If I'm using yellow corn, I just buy cracked corn. But, for the stuff I do in the barrel, I malt my own corn and grind my own coarse meal from whole kernel white corn. And "yes"...it's a lot of work..and sometimes feels exactly like busting up bigger rocks to make smaller ones.
Re: Grinding/Cracking/Gristing Whole Corn
Now that there's funny right there, I tell you what... If each of those pieces could germinate you'd be onto something big and you'd be rich...Usge wrote:Well...didn't have much luck malting cracked corn