Heating Element Control

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Gr8brewer

Re: Heating Element Control

Post by Gr8brewer »

Pamulli wrote:OK so here are the parts list for my PSR-25 based controller and pics. I got everything except the on/off switch from Newark since Mouser doesn't carry the PSR-25 and didn't have the Pot I wanted. You can see how it's wired in Snideman's previous post. http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 0#p6842835" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

PSR-25 SSR - Newark # 97K7822 $44.65 http://www.newark.com/united-automation ... tt=97K7822" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Honeywell 2W 250Kohm Pot - Newark # 04F8770 $6.61 http://www.newark.com/honeywell-s-c-cla ... tt=04F8770" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow (Note that the picture on Newark is wrong, but you can see an accurate picture by clicking on the data sheet info)
Big Heat sink - Newark #93K7581 $18.29 http://www.newark.com/crydom/he-54/rela ... tt=93K7581" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow There is some debate whether one this big is really needed, but since the documentation on the PSR-25 makes it sound like you need a good one, I didn't want to chance it.

That's all that is absolutely required however I added a few parts.
Knob for Pot with 1-10 markings - Newark #94F9955 $7.25 http://www.newark.com/tyco-electronics- ... tt=94F9955" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Leviton 30Amp Double Pole AC Switch from HD $10 Note that a 20amp off the shelf AC switch isn't big enough since most are actually rated around 16amps max and with a 4500w element you are around 19amps.

Here are the pictures of the final build.
IMG_0736.JPG
IMG_0738.JPG
It's in a plastic box since I couldn't find a metal junction box big enough for that heatsink, but I'm fine with that. As you can see I added an off the shelf AC switch so I can cut the power without unplugging.

I just did a cleaning run with plain water and it worked great. Brought about 5gal to a boil in 25 minutes and I could easily back it down below boiling. Now I need to do another cleaning run with some actual alcohol.

Overall I'm very happy with the final product although this took WAY too long and ended up costing a lot more than I had planned. The PSR-25 build is a whole lot easier than the other builds in this thread and there is a lot less you have to understand to get it working. I would definitely recommend this to anyone who is like me and has very little knowledge of electrical circuits and diagrams.

Thanks to everyone on this forum that answered all my newbie questions over and over again. :D
Thats sweet, If my Pintoshine controller does not work im going to try that.
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by crazyk78 »

Hey Bob,

It really doesn't matter which country you are in, as long as either 240V or 120V is being converted to roughly 12V it will work.

Like I said, I used a Dell Laptop power supply although 15V still works great but because of the extra voltage my fan will burn out quicker...how much quicker?? Don't know will just have to wait and see.

If my enclosure that I put my circuit in was big enough I would of just put this in there but because its an old computer power supply box there aint much room.

In essence, think outside the square. Look at anything that needs 12V volt transformer to run and these could be anything from cell phone chargers, to battery chargers. Tear off the plastic outer cover and whola you have xxV to 12V converter!

Good luck.
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by Bob421 »

I have used these transformers befor. Just not in a 240v application. Like I said all ours are 120v.
Lime pamuli I really don't understand all this but I manage to keep from electrocuting myself most of the time.
I really don see how it would work by hooking the transformer to one leg of the 220 and the other side to ground.
Seems like it would make all my grounded stuff hot.
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by Bob421 »

A quick google search of 110 from one leg of 220 reveals hat it's not a good idea unless you have both a groun and a neutral in the box. I only have the ground so I will have to come up with an alternative. Like finding a small 220v transformer.
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by MuleKicker »

yes, pamuli is right. hooking up one leg of 220v and other to ground gives you 110v.
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by Pamulli »

rad14701 wrote:Nice setup, Pamulli... What would you estimate the total build to be...??? Without the failed attempts, of course... Looks like roughly $100.00 by my calculations...
Yea right around $100. It is a lot more than building from scratch, but a hell of a lot easier.
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by Pamulli »

Crazyk78, I like your idea of putting a fan in since that would allow you to use a smaller and much cheaper heat sink, but it is above my ability. I built the controller with the PSR-25 so that I could greatly limit the number of parts and guessed attempts.

The box came from HD. I'm not sure what it's real use is since there are no openings, but it's in the electrical section. It was around $10.
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by MuleKicker »

it looks like an outdoor junction box, you put yer own holes in it where you need them. I use the same one. They are nice.
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by crazyk78 »

Hi Pamulli, HD? sorry for my ignorance, but is that an abbreviation of anything?

Cheers
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by Gr8brewer »

crazyk78 wrote:Hi Pamulli, HD? sorry for my ignorance, but is that an abbreviation of anything?

Cheers
Its a chain of stores called The Home Depot.
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by davidwh »

Hello all,

This contoller sounds like what I need. Tried a simmerstat but again its on (full pwr) /off type. A few questions...

From reading seems it would suit Aussie 240v supply ?

Has anyone sourced the parts in Aust ?

From specs a 2000w element should not be an issue ?

The wiring diagam is definitive...i.e. no changes needed?

cheers
dave
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by davidwh »

Hello all,
K, electrical in not my area....Sorted out the first 3 questions...

That just leaves the wiring diagram...looking for 240v wiring dia

cheers
dave
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by Gr8brewer »

Switch Diagram-Rad.jpg
1 Question: Almost ready to solder my connections in. This is my very first project of this kind. Here it is so far. Like snuffys controller in an earlier post, I have installed a voltmeter ammeter. If someone could tell me where in this diagram do I connect them I would be mighty grateful!

Thanks,
M
IMG00105.jpg
IMG00127.jpg
IMG00135.jpg
IMG00136.jpg
Thanks,
M
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by MuleKicker »

Sure is a fancy box brewer. Nice work. I bet if you check out the data sheet on the specific gauges you got, you will get yer answer. Google the names, and most places that sell them will offer the data sheet.
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by rad14701 »

Common wiring scenario...

A = ammeter
V = volt meter
Ammeter-Voltmeter-Circuit.gif
Ammeter-Voltmeter-Circuit.gif (3.33 KiB) Viewed 3200 times
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by MuleKicker »

Alot of those ammeters for high current are inductive, if I remember? Maybe im wrong, but i cant see 25-30A running straight through one of them little meters.
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by Kentucky shinner »

Hey Mulekicker I am still wanting to get one of those controllers you make man. I have to stop buying barrels and save some money first though. I am wanting you set my keg up so I can run my propane burner or electric.
KS
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by maheel »

maheel wrote:thanks i will try it with the element in my current boiler and a light bulb. i wired it up to a double power point so i can just "plug" both in.

the only light bulb i have is 25w thats why i went and got the halogen

it had the same effect of small adjustment range (turning) on just running the 25w but i assumed that was just the 25w issue?

yes i have the triac on a alloy heatsink (but may need a bigger one) and will mointor temp

intend (maybe) to use a CPU power supply to house so it has the fan to assist in cooling

one other Question....
when soldering up the parts do any have a "right direction" eg the Resistor does it need to be "the right way round"
my Diak DB3 has a silver band on one end does that need to be in a certain direction (band towards element?)

as i just copied you picture..... but it seems to "work" :)

either way it was $10 of fun :D
i finally got to give this a try with some load.... 2000w "turbo oven" and a light bulb

the Pot still only has very little control, it works but all happens in 1/8 of a turn.
i am moving house (and states) so wont get time to figure it out until the new brewery and distillery is found (bigger and better) :)

seems the controllers are really moving forward but and simple solutions are appearing, cant wait till i get the new shed :)
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by Gr8brewer »

MuleKicker wrote:Sure is a fancy box brewer. Nice work. I bet if you check out the data sheet on the specific gauges you got, you will get yer answer. Google the names, and most places that sell them will offer the data sheet.
Got them off ebay str8 from China no instructions . ha perhaps they will be only Bling... The box was from a dosing pump i salvaged abour 8 yrs ago. I knew id use it for somthing.
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by Gr8brewer »

MuleKicker wrote:Alot of those ammeters for high current are inductive, if I remember? Maybe im wrong, but i cant see 25-30A running straight through one of them little meters.
Ha Have no idea what that means but i think you mean it will smoke the ammeter.

Just read the auction:

The item can be directly connected with the equipment being tested without the power source.

The panel meter is brand new and boxed and come complete with screws for simple DIY installation.

External 100A Current Transformer must be used for this meter.

Description:

Measuring Range : 0--100A AC

Accuracy : Class 2.5

Dimensions: 72mm x 60mm x 35mm

Package:

-- 1 X AC 0~100A Analog Amp Panel Meter

-- Screw Mounts
Gr8brewer

Re: Heating Element Control

Post by Gr8brewer »

ok going to scratch the voltage ammeter. perhaps a 2 din thermocouple readouts.....
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by Gr8brewer »

Would i be able to power this meter with one of the legs of my heating element? http://cgi.ebay.com/Digital-Temperature ... 3a568f9062" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by Dnderhead »

you would need to take the power off befor any power controls.using one leg and neutral.
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by MuleKicker »

Gr8brewer wrote:ok going to scratch the voltage ammeter. perhaps a 2 din thermocouple readouts.....

Dont scrap it, those things are neat. Just do a little research online. Youll find your instructions.
Hell, post model, and specs. maybe a link to it. There aint nothin you cant find online. :D I might be able to help.
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by Gr8brewer »

Thanks MuleKicker ill see what i can find.
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by crazyk78 »

I bought one of the PSR25's and it's on it's way to me just for a bit of a play around.

Question

If I can't get my hands on a 2W 250Kohm Pot can I use this one 0.5W 250Kohm Pot? http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.as ... rm=KEYWORD" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Also for those of you who have used these, what is the resolution on them? ie does a small adjustment on the pot have large effect? ie is it very sensitive?
If so what is needed so that the sensitivity on the knob is not great.

Thanks,
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by MuleKicker »

hey crazyk, did you try ebay? they have alot of electronics parts there. thats where i get alot of my parts. Most sellers will ship worldwide.
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by Pamulli »

crazyk78 wrote:If I can't get my hands on a 2W 250Kohm Pot can I use this one 0.5W 250Kohm Pot? http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.as ... rm=KEYWORD" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Also for those of you who have used these, what is the resolution on them? ie does a small adjustment on the pot have large effect? ie is it very sensitive?
If so what is needed so that the sensitivity on the knob is not great.
The specs for the PSR-25 call for 1watt 250Kohm Pot so that won't work. You can use a 2W if that makes it easier to find.

As far as sensitivity, I still have not done a spirit run with mine, but with plain water the sensitivity seemed fine.
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by rad14701 »

You can always go higher in wattage rating requirements, but not lower... And knowing that a 1W has failed in service a 2W is the best choice...
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Re: Heating Element Control

Post by crazyk78 »

Thanks guys. will keep my eyes peeled to see if I can get one.
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