Combined Pot / Reflux still

[Gobbo]

Okay guys, here goes... My second post... First was to say hello. I have searched the forum and could find nothing that could answer my question directly. If I am rehashing old material, please forgive me. I am currently researching the process of distillation, and methodology of still construction prior to taking the plunge into building my own still.

I have read Ian Smiley's book on making corn whiskey, and he advocates for a column still for making whiskey. I was thinking of following his design, but as I read more, I'm thinking about a pot still. However, would it be possible do you think to combine both? Why not put a ball valve low, on the column, and have a lyne arm beneath it, also ball valved. Column ball valve off when being used as a pot still. Lyne arm off when being used as a reflux column. Has anybody tried this? If not, I would appreciate any responses on what you might consider the feasibility of this method.

Thank you for your consideration.

Gobbo

[Kentucky shinner]

hey Gobbo, I personally dont see why that would not work just fine. What I do see is that 1.5 or 2" ball valves can be pretty pricey, with each connection you have possibility for leaks. It is so cheap to build a pot still column to use on the same boiler I think most just choose to have both. Also I think most of us start out learning on a pot still then advancing as we go into more elaborate ventures. I am sure others with more knowledge than me will be along and may shoot me down completely on this, but this just my 2 cents.
Good luck, Oh ya and be sure what every you build to Post some pics we love looking at your work.
Kentucky Shinner

[Gobbo]

First, thanks so much for your reply. It is appreciated.

The issue is one of space, really, and I was sorta thinkin' out loud when I asked this question.

I'm just getting into the "design" phase of my operation, and will probably go with a 12 gallon water heater as the boiler with a 750 watt element.

I'm thinking that if I could combine the two stills it would save me money and space. After your comment regarding the cost of ball valves, you are correct on that score. They would raise the price, but not so much as a second boiler.

Again, thanks for your reply, and I will most certainly provide photos of the operation once it gets up and running. Hopefully within the next four to six weeks

http://homedistiller.org/forum/posting. ... 16&t=16762#

[Kentucky shinner]

You use the same boiler just change your column. I use a beer keg with a fish cooker. That is the only boiler I have. Then I have bok reflux colum and a pot still column. I use easy fittings& tri-clamps to connect to my boiler. you could to the same with a water heater.
Be careful with the water heater. find out what the tank is made of. Me personally I would stay away for a water heater if your here in the USA.
Many of our distillers here are using beer kegs with electric elements installed. I think even with a water heater you will need a different controller as they work off temp. and you just need to be able to control the power. if you use the one on the water heater I would think it would cause your still to surge as it comes on and goes off. I think the part of Ian Smiley's book about the hot water heater should be omitted myself. but thats just me.
Like I said there are others more knowledgeable here than me that will be here to help later.
Good luck man,
Kentucky shinner

[rad14701]

Neither ball valves nor gate vales are cheap or light in weight... Additionally, they haven't made idiot proof valves yet that will automatically react should the operator accidentally leave both valves closed, creating an alcohol fueled bomb...

The simplest solution is making either a proper combo still or using two separate still heads on the same boiler...

Do some more research and you'll soon discover one of the many methods that members are using to address this very dilemma that will suit your needs...

Good luck, and stay safe...

[JethroBodine]

Everything KS said, ditto. Also, at 750 watts, in pot still mode you probably won't need to controll it, just let it go, especially for stripping runs. You will also be looking at VERY long heat up times for a boiler that big. If open flames are not an option, check on internal elements around here. Some of us are running 3000 plus watts in kegs for heat up. Me, I like fire. Fire good. Kinda like a toddler that just learned how to walk, though. Don't trust it enough to walk away from it!

[Samohon]

Hi Gobbo and welcome to HD.
Most guy's here have both Pot and reflux columns with 1 boiler.
When strippin there wash's, be it flavoured or neutral, the short pot column is used.
I always strip any wash I ferment, not all do, but it works for me.

I would be against putting a 2" gate/ball valve on the column for the reasons outlined above.
If you forgot, for whatever reason, to open that valve to reflux the only warning you would get from your still would be a loud one.
We don't want you or others hurt by something so simple as this...

As Rad says, do some more research and you'll find a way to do this safely...

Above all, have fun and be SAFE...!

[myles]

Has anyone tried it before? Sure they have - me for starters, and I am sure there are lots of others too.

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... ombination

I put the column above the pot still and used a thumper instead of the valve. To be honest don't bother - there is a MUCH better option.

Put the reflux column INSIDE the pot still neck so that you can blow right through it in pot mode.

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 16&t=13995

I like this so much I am building a new version of it. Am not the only one either - check out 'dephlegramator'. All variations of the same concept.

Pot still + = Pot stil with variable reflux rate. Not sure if it is the best of both worlds but for flavoured spirits it gives you huge versatility and controlability.

[MuleKicker]

How about simply take the packing out of yer reflux still. Boom, pot still. Or just build 2 stills. A couple easy flanges, and mix and match accessories.

[LWTCS]

Need a threeway valve.........Can you say spendy.

No matter witch way you adjust the valve stays open.
I wanted to do this with my rig for heads take off.

Did not want to get any part of heads in my thumper juice.
But I don't have any more money and I did not plan ahead (as usual).

[ScottishBoy]

How about simply take the packing out of yer reflux still. Boom, pot still. Or just build 2 stills. A couple easy flanges, and mix and match accessories.

+1 MK. I have a simple base on my pot. I have a 2 foor section with packing, a one foot that I can pack or unpack as suits me, and a condesnser head based on a boka. When I want to potstill or strip, I take the 1 foot section with no packing and use it with the condenser. If Im looking for down and dirty, I dont even use the 1 foot. When I want to reflux, I pack the 1 foot and combine with the 2 foot and then the condenser for 36 inches of refluxing. Total conversion time is about three minutes.
Keep looking around, you will find the design that speaks to you.

[rad14701]

I do the same mixing and matching of various length column sections, ScottishBoy... Nothing like versatility...

[Mr.Spooky]

if i was wanting to make whiskeys, and or rums, i would start with a pot still. get comfortable with this and then, if your wanting something more,, then advance. a simple pot still is a easy and pretty cheap way to get into something good! as far as saving space, i wouldent worry about that, my pot still column takes up about 2" x 25" of space. less than a few whiskey bottles

[Gobbo]

Thanks all for the input. You have given me much to chew on.

[Pikluk]

i don't think 750w is enough to run a reflux column.
i use 1100w with my boka and would like to have a little more.

and i think the boka is the cheapest way to get both type reflux and pot.
just like ScottishBoy described it.
i got a 48" packed section and a 10" section i always use the boka head.