My new to me pot still what yall think??

[Chris2626]

Hopefully the picture works. I'm open to all opinions on this one. I've thought maybe I should cut the pipe from the boiler to the doubler but yall tell me what ya think. I was gonna run water through it but realized it won't fit my burner so tomorrow will be doing some cutting of the burner I guess to make it fit.

Would like to thank everyone here who I have pmed so many times and answered many of my sometimes dumb questions.

Chris

[Chris2626]

one more

[still crazy]

hows she run
looks great

[Chris2626]

Haven't run it, I gotta chop on my burner some to get the keg to fit on it. I was just kinda wanting people opinions on the pipe going to the doubler if I should cut it down shorter or not?

[Usge]

Hey Chris, glad you got the pics posted. While it does look a bit on the long side to me, I'd run it first to see how it works...then cut if you need to. Use any comments from others here to check/watch for issues. Measure your abv on your runs (per jar) and take notes. Do a run using wash/mash...and then do one using low-wines. What you want to see is that regardless of what you run in the pot...is the abv should settle quickly and "stick" for good portion of the run. Then starts to tail off quickly right at the end of the run. Notes from this (jar by jar) is an easy way to see/tell if it's working like it should. You should see similar behavior between running wash vs running low-wines...it should settle, stick/hold abv, then drop quickly at the end. As long as it's doing that...your lynearm/thumper is functioning fine.

From there, you can experiment with different things in the thumper (ie., running water vs wash vs low-wines, or a mix of any/all). At that point, you should have enough runs under your belt to feel comfortable, and enough notes to know if you have any issues, and/or how you want to dial things in. As long as it's behaving properly, giving the results it should and you dont' have an issue with the space it's taking up.....just use it like it is.

The issue here is transfer of heat. The thumper acts as a secondary boiler that is driven by the first. So long as that heat transfer is happening to drive the thumper properly, and it's not taking too long to heat up...it's good to go. If it's not, or showing signs that it's not...then there are several things to try.

[LWTCS]

Good looking rig. Nice and simetrical.

I like Usage's approach. May take a few runs to figure out how long it will take for her to settle in given the amount of heat you are using and so forth. Boiling chips in your thumper can help you listen for when she settles in.
While the lyne arm is longish, I don't think it's too long. If you have heat up issues, you can insulate the lyne arm and thumper too.

Don't get discouraged after only one or two runs. Might take a couple of screw ups just to get a proper feel for how she likes to cruise. Its not like you got one of Goose eye's friends standing there showing you what's what.

I think she is perty.

[Chris2626]

Thanks guys, Yeah I just have the lynarm just sitting in there and want to try using that paste for those two connections and see how it goes. I do feel it's really on the long side and would like to take a foot outta it. Just have to run it and see.

Thanks
Chris

[docdave]

Chris2626,

One thing folks on this forum have shown me is that make everything modular. Put a union at the thumper and the worm so you swap pieces in and out. Thumper vs. no thumper. Switch out worm for a liebig. Just adds a whole lot of flexibility for different recipes and your own tastes.

DocDave

[Usge]

+1 DocDave

[still crazy]

Ya but remember once you cut it then you will have to couple it back together?
baby steps

[rad14701]

One thing folks on this forum have shown me is that make everything modular.

Yep... Just a matter of deciding whether its better to use slip joint (solder) fittings and flour paste or actual threaded fittings... Threaded fittings can drastically increase overall construction costs while not necessarily enhancing reliability and performance... Just more options to be considered on a joint by joint basis...

[Chris2626]

I cut the lynnarm a little I couldn't take it being so dam long my new problem is the worm I gotta figure out a better way to secure it so the epoxy doesn't break loose but I'll get it figured out. I got the keg fitting perfect on the burn after I welded some flat bar to it, now just gotta do something with this worm.

[Mr.Spooky]

just gotta do something with this worm.

liebig??????
spooky

[myles]

I cut the lynnarm a little I couldn't take it being so dam long my new problem is the worm I gotta figure out a better way to secure it so the epoxy doesn't break loose but I'll get it figured out. I got the keg fitting perfect on the burn after I welded some flat bar to it, now just gotta do something with this worm.

This is realy easy. Just get yourself a compression tank connector 1 size bigger than your worm tube. Fit that to your bucket and screw it up real tight with a bit of silicon or PTFE to seal the thread. Not touching your product so it is not an issue.

Your worm will fit through the hole nice and easy. Use a reducing coupler to mate the worm to the next size up tube and tighten up the compression fitting. Semi permanent, but how often do you need to change your worm bucket.

I use the same technique to add a drain / fill port to the bucket.



The one on the left is the worm, on the right is a combined fill port / (water surface level) drain.

[Chris2626]

I cut the lynnarm a little I couldn't take it being so dam long my new problem is the worm I gotta figure out a better way to secure it so the epoxy doesn't break loose but I'll get it figured out. I got the keg fitting perfect on the burn after I welded some flat bar to it, now just gotta do something with this worm.

This is realy easy. Just get yourself a compression tank connector 1 size bigger than your worm tube. Fit that to your bucket and screw it up real tight with a bit of silicon or PTFE to seal the thread. Not touching your product so it is not an issue.

Your worm will fit through the hole nice and easy. Use a reducing coupler to mate the worm to the next size up tube and tighten up the compression fitting. Semi permanent, but how often do you need to change your worm bucket.

I use the same technique to add a drain / fill port to the bucket.



The one on the left is the worm, on the right is a combined fill port / (water surface level) drain.

Thanks this is exactly what I was gonna try and do. As soon as I get back to Louisiana on Monday gonna give this a try.

Thanks
Chris

[blanikdog]

Trouble with a liebig is that they need a lot of water when a barrel/coil uses bugger all.

[theholymackerel]

Trouble with a liebig is that they need a lot of water when a barrel/coil uses bugger all.

Damn straight!

Several other good benefits too... like the wife can't "turn off the water", and after a run ya got a big bucket of HOT water for clean-up.

[Chris2626]

no this setup will work good, i'll be running it outside and then breaking it down and putting it in my garage. I could probally keep it outside all the time but don't want to chance it with the neighbors just in case they were to see through the woods

[myles]

Not much water use with a worm but if you wish you can slowly change the water during the run. It helps if you can drain the water from the top and feed in ater from the bottom. This is nice and easy too..

[Chris2626]

I fixed my problem for sealing the garbage can and I ran water and vinegar through the still last night and found only two small leak which is where i used the paste and where I used the keg adapter with the rubber o-ring which next time will use paste there to help it from not leaking. If I could do it over again I'd just make my own flange like I did with the thump keg because using the paste it didn't leak at all. I deffinitly recommend someone making there own flange then buying the expensive one off the internet.

One thing learned here though I gotta get more vinegar and run it through again because i clearly used to much dang flux in soldering. This time i will use the vinegar in the boiler and some in the thumper to. Heating up the still running wide open really didn't take to long and am happy I did cut the lynn arm a little to. I really didn't check my time for how long it took to heat up I was simply just trying to run it really hard to clean the trash out.