Does a Pot Still design require a planar vapor path?

[HeadCase]

I came across some parts at a local scrap yard and I am now able to complete a 2ft tall 2"ID Potstill column. With these fittings and my Pot Still (for Rum, Whiskey and hopefully Scotch) and I can set the angle of incline/decline that will go into the 3ft leibig to any measure, but the path would require me going through 2 2" elbows. This would make the vapor path non-planar (sectionally, for those Engineeringly inclined).

Now my question is this: Is a non-planar vapor path from Column to Condensor OK? And what is the most efficient angle for good stripping or spirit runs?

I have seen other that there has been little to no constant angle across the product line going into most leibigs (usually it is the column, then 2 90 degree elbows into a vertical leibig or shotgun) but are planar. Others I have seen a Potstill that after column goes into a 30-ish degree decline for a few inches then into the condensor. I have seen others twisted and turning to fit whatever the room layout was that the still is being used in. But with all of these I have never heard or seen the results.

I would love to finish my still tonight but would like the communities input.
This is what I have:
2" ID 2ft column going into a first 90 elbow
a 3ft leibig built and would like to use that as my condensor, 1/2" inner wall
a few 2" 90 degree elbows
a few 2" 45 degree elbows
reducer 2" to 1-1/4"
2ft of 1-1/4" pipe
several feet of 1" pipe
reducer 1" to 1/2"
street elbow 1/2" at 45 degrees
several feet of 1/2" pipe

The column will be on a 15.5gallon keg so overall height may be about 5ft tall from floor.

Thank you all in advance.

[Coaster]

@ HeadCase,

Instead of your non specific narrative of a few 90 degree elbows, a few 45 degree elbows, several feet of pipe, reducers, street elbows and the such perhaps it would be better if you posted a quick simple drawing of your proposed Pot Still design that you are attempting to build. That way informed knowledgeable Forum Members would then be able to fully understand exactly the Pot Still design you are proposing to build and then be able to make meaningful comments on the merits of your particular design.

Regards,
Coaster

[rad14701]

Using two 90's is not a problem... Kentucky Shinner even sells a pot still head with the same basic design for take off height adjustment... It's far better to have that adjustability than to be locked into a specific geometry...

[LWTCS]

It's far better to have that adjustability than to be locked into a specific geometry...

Unless ya prefer to be hunched over on the floor while yer collectin....Ew I love that.

[HeadCase]

@ HeadCase,
Instead of your non specific narrative of a few 90 degree elbows, a few 45 degree elbows, several feet of pipe, reducers, street elbows and the such perhaps it would be better if you posted a quick simple drawing of your proposed Pot Still design that you are attempting to build. That way informed knowledgeable Forum Members would then be able to fully understand exactly the Pot Still design you are proposing to build ...

I thought my description from column to product line was sufficient in comparison to others that I have seen, but for your sake I will give in. I did not immediately have design software available at the time of my original post as a "non-planar" design idea cannot be relayed within a "simple drawing". If I did decide to make a "simple drawing" it would end up as three perspective views and an isometric view.

But, since you asked for specifics I will grant you that once I get the software on my trolling computer...

[this message will be edited with "simple drawings" once i get the appropriate softwares on the trolling system]

This is the added image. This is an Iso-View with a sectional cut showing the disruption of the vapor path.

Pot Still 90 Elbows.JPG (4.74 KiB) Viewed 3057 times

[HeadCase]

Using two 90's is not a problem... Kentucky Shinner even sells a pot still head with the same basic design for take off height adjustment... It's far better to have that adjustability than to be locked into a specific geometry...

Is there any worry to leaving one of the 90s free (including flour paste to seal) to make any given angle?

[HeadCase]

It's far better to have that adjustability than to be locked into a specific geometry...

Unless ya prefer to be hunched over on the floor while yer collectin....Ew I love that.

Sadly, I think this is what may happen to this build whether I like it or not. Ceiling room with keg attachments, I think I may only have floor room to scrounge around.

[rad14701]

Using two 90's is not a problem... Kentucky Shinner even sells a pot still head with the same basic design for take off height adjustment... It's far better to have that adjustability than to be locked into a specific geometry...

Is there any worry to leaving one of the 90s free (including flour paste to seal) to make any given angle?

Nothing to worry about... If you end up with a minor leak you can use flour paste or a few wraps of teflon tape... This will be to stop an external leak so there would be little to worry about as far as tainting weeping back into the spirits vapor path...

[HeadCase]

How would one keep the degree angle stable with just flour paste? The neck would have to be supported with something.

If I had to use a stable degree that I would solder the elbows at, what would be the best for rum?

... I also added the image to the previous post to show what I meant ...

[rad14701]

How would one keep the degree angle stable with just flour paste? The neck would have to be supported with something.

If I had to use a stable degree that I would solder the elbows at, what would be the best for rum?

... I also added the image to the previous post to show what I meant ...

A support arm or suspended from the ceiling by a rope would work... Another option would be to cut a single slit into the side of the one 90 and use a screw type hose clamp... Lot's of simple solutions if you put your thinking tuque on...

[HeadCase]

Another option would be to cut a single slit into the side of the one 90 and use a screw type hose clamp...

That is a very good idea. I didn't even think of that. Another though I had was to drill a hew holes into the coupler side of the 90 and put a single drilled and tapped hole into the top side of the feed 2" pipe. I would then have a set of holes lined down the edge of the coupler side of the 90. So I choose a angle, thread in the screw and now I have a hold, and it will prevent slipping; flour paste and go. This, to me, would be the simplist. I will be running this outside and have no way yet to stand it up.

[rad14701]

Yep... See there, the gray matter hasn't turned to puddin' after all...

Another method would be to solder a machine screw onto the tube between the two 90's and use a wing nut and washer for infinite adjustments... Or drill a hole in it and slide a stainless screw through from the inside and either solder it or use a nut on the outside to secure it into place and then use the same wing nut and washer method...

[myles]

your vapour path can do anything you like, it realy will not matter. Changes in direction might induce a bit of additional reflux but probably not. I used to have all sorts of turns to accomodate a 2 foot sideways shift from the boiler to where I wanted the condenser to be.

I suspended my stuff from the ceiling with turnbuckles for fine adjustment.

[HeadCase]

Wow!
That reminds me of that space under your stairs! Scary.
I am planning on working on my still this next day or so to complete it. I'll post pics with what I did.

[still crazy]

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 16&t=19240