Bokakob 2" mini-still column

[wolfpak382usa]

i've been reading this post and it is probably one of the best for somebody that's about to build a boka. I just had some copper given to me today and am about to attempt my own boka. My question is, what about a 3" boka ? I haven't heard any comments on a 3" build. Are there any advantages or disadvantages? Should the dimensions be up sized ? (distance between the plates, output tubing size, etc.) I was given pieces of 3" and 2" in various lengths. Here's what I have, any suggesttions? (2" or 3" build ?) I have enough that I thought about making 1 column 46" for reflux and 1 column 16" for pot mode.

3" copper I have----- a piece 30" long, 2 pieces 16" long, 1 piece about 10" long. I also have the same in 2".

[Coaster]

@ wolfpak382usa,

Suggest reviewing the ‘Some Still Drawings’ thread located in the Research and Theory sub-forum. That thread provides diagrams and dimension information for Boka Reflux Still builds.

Regards,
Coaster

[wolfpak382usa]

Already read it. I have read through many threads and so far haven't found anything on any of them about a 3" boka. I've even done many searches but it brings up all kinds of subjects that don't even pertain to 3" boka. Maybe I'm just not using the search engine right. Just thought maybe somebody on here might remember seeing a thread on the subject.

[rad14701]

Already read it. I have read through many threads and so far haven't found anything on any of them about a 3" boka.

I know for a fact that they exist...

[wolfpak382usa]

I did finally find one that hawke had on here. It did answer a couple of my questions but i still have one more. I'll keep looking though, i'll eventually find it. That has to be one of the worst search engines though, really.
I was waiting on your response also rad, new you would, i know how you like to see the newbies struggle on here...lol

[rad14701]

I did finally find one that hawke had on here. It did answer a couple of my questions but i still have one more. I'll keep looking though, i'll eventually find it. That has to be one of the worst search engines though, really.
I was waiting on your response also rad, new you would, i know how you like to see the newbies struggle on here...lol

So you figure I, or someone, should just do the searching and spoonfeed you the links...??? That doesn't generally happen here unless someone has a pretty good feeling they know where to look and have the time to burn...

Here's how I can help... Up in the header there is a Forum Google Search feature... It works better than the search engine that comes with phpBB... And I even gave you the link... See, here you thought I was just a smartass but I still helped you just the same...

[Coaster]

@ wolfpak382usa,

Sorry to have to disagree with you but if you CLOSELY look at those drawings in the ‘Some Still Drawings’ thread that I referenced in my Thu Dec 15, 2011 8:21PM posting in this thread you will notice that the drawings do in fact have diagrams and dimensional information for both 2” and 3” Boka Reflux Still builds. I used those drawings when I built my 3” LM/VM Boka Reflux Still and did not have any problems with those drawings.

Regards,
Coaster

[Lynx_Gen]

hey all, i'd just like to point out, not sure if its the same here, as the stickied version of this build over in the new distillers reading lounge

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 46&t=13598" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

That one,
But Im not sure the link to the template is right..? is it supposed to be a 1/4" gap between plates or wasnt it made bigger?

I remember when i made mine i found out after that the gap shoulda been bigger than what i had, cuz I'd had an old template or something???

I was just browsing around and such and came across that thread and the link to the templates and figured id should get the up-2-date ones since i stumbled across em, for future referances.. lol

anyways,

L8rs, and happy hobbying!

(And im jealous.. guess im just gona have to keep practicing till i make one all nice n smexy like yours! )

EDIT: and yes I know this is kinda reviving a dead thread that hasnt been posted in for a long while, but I thought it was important enough to warrent.. *Cringe*

[rad14701]

Lynx_Gen, you are correct... The new specifications for air gaps between plates are a 3/4" for 2" columns and 1" for 3" columns... This helps eliminate a drastic increase in vapor speed as well as helping eliminate choking and flooding...

[Lynx_Gen]

is it possible to get the link changed to the updated template? or at least have a note put in there kinda thing?

lol..

I mean I know now, live n learn, but it would just kinda be not good to let ppl keep downloading the bad template with the wrong dimensions on it.. lol

[rad14701]

is it possible to get the link changed to the updated template? or at least have a note put in there kinda thing?

Well, he did state to go larger in the first post of that topic...

I didn't follow the 1/4" between plates, I gave it more like 3/4".

However, once I track down the location of the newer templates here in the forums I'll change the download link accordingly - or at least add it as an alternate with a note...

EDIT: To say that there is a revised template, HERE, in this very topic for 2"...

[Lynx_Gen]

Purfect

when i built mine, i just didnt know that there was an alternate template.. I had read through so many different builds and stuff..
i didnt find out till after..

anyways, she works okay, just cleaned her out tonight!

[whitey71]

Great work you may have inspired me to build instead of buy.For me soldering fittings to pipe is no big deal but soldering those slanted plates and small tubing is confusing me. Any help is appreciated. If its already been covered please point me there. Thanks

[yamastill]

Nice unit. The baffle with the notch in it, its that the upper or the lower one?

just received my packing today.got one pound of copper mesh , only made
32" of packing with it, will need more .
i want to fill it to about 2" below the bottom plate.
playing with that right now steady at 94% about 400ml/h from low wine ~50%.

test cap are about 10$ cheaper then a regular end cap lot thiner too,it fits over a 2" I.D. copper pipe,
but since it was only to hold the coil at the right height.
the 1/4" hole its for safety its a vent hole to prevent pressure built up.

[yamastill]

So have parts and pieces gathering up. One question I have is the plates inside, what is the correct spacing and how much opening do I need to leave at the end for a 2" column?

[Old MacDonald]

Yamastill,
Try this link... Diagrams & Plans Thread

[yamastill]

Ok so I am full steam ahead on building,, still looking for a 1/2 keg but until then I will be working on my column. I am looking for some parts and found a website on here for buying the fermenter kit. But now that I am ready having a hard time finding it. I know there is some out there just don't want to get ripped off as it is easy to do thanks.

[yamastill]

Yamastill,
Try this link... Diagrams & Plans Thread

found it, ,much help thank you.

[yamastill]

heres my results after of a ton of reading, asking question and research.
My question is on the coil.. is it 1/4 ID or OD. I just tried to bend it and this is not easy. Read some post about salt, water, HELP... it looks so simple.
first ill give a huge thanks to the people of this forum.
special thanks to Uncle Jesse for this wonderful forum and Bokakob for the design and to all the others who takes time to help others.

this is the way i builded my reflux still.

head
1/4" copper pipes
copper plate(used a piece of the 2" pipe cuted open and hammered flat)
2" copper pipe
2" copper treaded adapter male
1/4" inline brass needle valve

used this template for the cuts.the file name say 1.5" but it include one for 2" too.
http://www.mediafire.com/?61di0xcx3z1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
i didn't follow the 1/4" between plates, i gave it more like 3/4".
made the cuts with one blade on the saw then used sand paper folded with sand on both side, made a nice tight fit took me about 5min with #180 paper,easier to solder like this.

DSCF001.jpg

DSCF004.jpg

DSCF0039.jpg

fullhead.jpg

column
2" copper pipe
2" treaded copper adapter female

fullcolum.jpg

condenser
2" copper test cap(lot cheaper then a regular one)
2x 1/4" 90°brass compression fitting
1/4" copper pipe
3/8" copper pipe

can't take any credit for rolling the coil,a really nice guy made it for me.

DSCF0043.jpg

boiler connection
2" copper end cap
8x 6-32 stainless bolts/nuts
cardboard(no ink or gloss)

didn't had the right tool so i made a bunch of little holes and finished with a dremel.
i don't think its the best way to do it but i don't think i will use this boiler for long but the price was right(free), i want something bigger.

DSCF0031.jpg

DSCF0027.jpg

DSCF0030.jpg

edit:fixed pictures size

[yamastill]

EDIT: Salt also works but I dont know how you would get it into 3-4 mtrs of 1/4 inch>>>

Should i use 1/4ID or OD tubing? first attempt with not filing it Failed miserable.
HOW TO FILL TUBING WITH SALT
Get a pipe cap (you will recycle this later and use it as the condenser cap).
Drill a 1/4" hole in the center and solder a 1" section of tubing in the hole to make a funnel.
(You will notice that the tube and the funnel are the same size and one won't fit inside the other)
Get a 2" long piece of 1/4" ID something - copper tube, plastic hose - and slip it half way over the end of your tubing. Then slip the funnel end into the other half of the sleeve.
Pinch the other end of the tubing flat.
Hang the tube out of your second story window, or climb up on your roof. Gravity is your friend here (Unless you fall off the roof. Don't do that.)
Pour away.
Find a way to vibrate the tube occasionally. It helps settle the salt. I used a palm sander (with the sandpaper removed, of course). I think an electric razor might also work or your wife might have some sort of tool that vibrates. Mine claimed she didn't.
Once the tube is full pinch the end closed and you are ready to roll your coil.

Some pictures of the process are here http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 5#p6820759

Braz

[Billy]

Tag for later

[canandbrew]

First of all GREAT JOB all around! This is inspirational work. Secondly I have a question about cooling. What are you using to control the water? Do you just turn it on and let it be? I am probably getting sideways on the cooling management concept again. Thank again.

All my best.

[maheel]

you can control it to reduce waste if you want

you need enough flow to knock down all the vapour

some say that's all you should use and not "more" to cool but i am undecided if it makes any difference having "to much" flow of cooling water

[WharfRat]

the head is 13 1/2" total 63 1/2" i could have made the head a bit shorter.
the coil take 7", from the top to the bottom plate 10".
if you are building a still like this start with the coil so you know how much space you need for it.

I'm sure this is obvoius to most but why did you make it so tall? Better quality product? Quicker distillation? Also, on your coil, which by the way is very nice work, at the top where the intake & output are, there is a copper plate. Does that take the place of a cap? Does it help collect product? Great work, you make it look easy, I'm learning quickly that it is not.

[FloridaShine]

Very nice work!
I'm in the process of making mine, I am for now using a 5 gal SS Stock pot, and winding the reflux condenser, What size pot are you using and have you made any runs with this?
The biggest obstacle was trying to find 2" copper tube, it only comes in 20' lengths. Lowes has it 10' at $214.00 too steep for me. So guess Im going to go with the 20 foot stick type L
I see some guys using a cold finger to reduce back pressure, anyone know how this all connects, and is it worth doing since I am just starting to build mine!
Thanks Y'all

Dennis

[holliday]

How did you connect the 3/8 to the 1/4 of your condenser? Crimping and soldering or what?

[BokaBakla]

Very nice work!
I'm in the process of making mine, I am for now using a 5 gal SS Stock pot, and winding the reflux condenser, What size pot are you using and have you made any runs with this?
The biggest obstacle was trying to find 2" copper tube, it only comes in 20' lengths. Lowes has it 10' at $214.00 too steep for me. So guess Im going to go with the 20 foot stick type L
I see some guys using a cold finger to reduce back pressure, anyone know how this all connects, and is it worth doing since I am just starting to build mine!
Thanks Y'all

Dennis

Yeah lowes is really expensive on copper.. Home depot isn't much better. I went to a bulk distributor in my area and got a 10 feet of 2" type M for $110 before tax. Was as cheap as I could find.

That distributor beat everyone but only sold 10' minimum and they were bad on the smaller copper parts like couplers. Little local hardware stores beat them by a few dollars there. But for bulk copper look for a distributor in your area- they usually sell the 1/4" od and 3/8" od in bulk too and the 3/8 will be better than what you can get at the chains like lowes and home depot.

How did you connect the 3/8 to the 1/4 of your condenser? Crimping and soldering or what?

Drill some holes in the 3/8 then solder them in. Having the right flux helps a lot. The oaty water soluble stuff makes a mess and generally sucks for silver soldering.. But linux makes this white flux that works really well. For stainless to copper I used this flux called Ruby that worked. It was around 3 dollars at the hardware store. Let me link some of the pics I uploaded the other day in the welcome thread- give you an idea on the cold finger and soldering copper to stainless for a cheap coupler (it's a bitch without the ruby flux). It'll look good if you just use regular flux (not made for steel) but when you go to pressure test- be like something out of a cartoon with steam shooting everywhere..

[Stillatryin]

Maybe this should go somewhere else, but here goes. I got a 46" stick of 2" L pipe. My original intention was to cut 18" of this and flange it, get a 90 and a 45 and make a simple pot still. After seeing the proof and output of the Bokakob, I changed my plan. I never cut the 46" stick and I think it would be just a bit short to simply wind a short condenser and install the slant plates, themo holder and takeoff tube into the stick I have. My question is, would it be acceptable to (after making the flange) buy a 2" coupler and put it atop the 46" stick and use that coupler to splice into a 14" or so boka unit? The whole 46"
stick would be packed with copper wool as per other instructions. Any input will be appreciated.

[mystakilla]

There's many here that have shorter columns then that but the shorter you go you are going to sacrafice a little bit more time.
From all I've read that would be probably an average size for the column including the head however you can add a coupling and make it bigger if you want. I would add a coupling in the range of the packing but that's me.

[Stillatryin]

There's many here that have shorter columns then that but the shorter you go you are going to sacrafice a little bit more time.
From all I've read that would be probably an average size for the column including the head however you can add a coupling and make it bigger if you want. I would add a coupling in the range of the packing but that's me.

That's what I don't want... sacrafice of time... I'm going to finish this one in the manner I mentioned and depending on how much time it takes to get into the tails, I may move up to a 3" stack. Thanks for the input, Sir.