rad14701 wrote:boda getta, some folks have decent luck with this recipe while others struggle hopelessly... If it doesn't work for you then try another...
I have to sort of disagree with this. Better in my opinion to discover what wasn't right and correct it. If you just try new recipes that have a lot of different variables, you won't learn anything and you won't progress in your knowledge.
What is so often overlooked in so many 'recipes' is the water you use. There are many minerals that have a profound effect on the pH at the start, active ferm, and finish. These are both in your water to start and in the 'recipe.' In short, you need to have a rough idea of what's in your water. Consult the myriad of examples in the beer forums. That's what yer makin' - beer. Just sugar and water to start, so you are in a more well controlled but initially deprived situation. You are doing a laboratory fermentation with pure sugar washes, birdwatchers or otherwise. Yer looking for lack of fermentation byproducts, speed of fermentation, and attenuation. With sugar washes, you are in the realm where science dominates over the art.
The way to manage things is predominantly twofold. Mineral buffering and yeast nutrients. Mineral buffering means that you have enough ions in solution so that the initail pH is acceptable, and that yeast action (particularly carbonic acid/CO2 production) doesn't drop the pH too low as the fermentation gets going. So, you want both and acid and base addition. I'd think that citric acid and some sort of carbonate/bicarbonate are good combos... maybe potassium carbonate? If you start with distilled/RO/DI water, you can build things as you see fit. If yer water is super hard, that usually means that there is a lot of alkalinity (carb/bicarb) in solution, so you might be able to leave out that addition. You WANT hard water for brewing. It's just that you want the hardness (Ca/Mg) to be balanced with sulphate or chloride, not bicarbonate as is usually the case with most water supplies.
Yeast nutes are another part of the story. Water (with the right minerals or not) is not likely to have any nitrogen reserves for the yeast, which it needs. This is the point of adding fermaid/DAP/yeasthulls/etc. I would imagine that the tom paste in the birdwatchers is adding both an acid for pH buffer down, and an N source. With wineos, it's more out in the open.
IF you start with pure water, you need a pH buffer (acid and base), a nitrogen source, and a micronutirent source (zinc is commonly not in abundance). If you have no idea about your source water, you are guaranteed to be somewhat in the dark. Your water is part of the recipe.