Heating Element Control

[rad14701]

Either the component is bad or a 1M Ohm potentiometer is needed... For shits and giggles, try soldering a 470K Ohm resistor in series and see if you have more or less control... That's how us electronics experimenters go about testing new circuits... If it provides low end control but no high end can be achieved then you have determined that you need 1M Ohm instead of the 500K Ohm...

[sambedded]

One of mine controllers based on SSR-40VA and it works perfectly with 500K pot.
If you don't believe me - take a look to spec:

etc_507.pdf

(88.4 KiB) Downloaded 1248 times

[ufo8mycow]

One of mine controllers based on SSR-40VA and it works perfectly with 500K pot.
If you don't believe me - take a look to spec:

etc_507.pdf

I'v been looking for that data sheet. Does the resistor and capacitor shown on the schematic on the bottom of page 10 mean that it has a filter/snubber built in?

[sambedded]

Yes , snubber is built-in.

[ufo8mycow]

I used a fotek ssr-40va from ebay and wired it just like the drawing that is for the psr-25 but when i tried it to boil water i was not able to get it to less than 4.5 amps. Am useing a b500k pot like it says but when i ohm it out it only shows 450k. Do i need to find a pot that is closer to 500k or can i add a resistor in series with it?

I got a new pot that ohm'ed at 506k and now it goes down to 1.6 amps which I can live with since i have a main power switch on my controller.

[F6Hawk]

i was thinking of using a wall wart and soldering two wires to the ends of the prongs and connecting one to the green ground and 1 to one of the hot wires i have enough room in the box to leave the wart inside the box that way i do not need a separate plug in for anything

Turrible idea, and not legal. What happens to your ground if it shorts out? Now your ground becomes LIVE.

Why not just use an aut0-switching transformer? Most cell phone and computer chargers handle both voltages. Just wire one inside your box and it will power the fan.

[sawyersam]

I have used a SSR-40VA Fotek Solid State Relay wired as the diagrams found on this forum with a 500K pot. My problem is if I turn the main switch on with the control turned down I can control the amperage down to 5 amps but when I turn it up to 22 amps and try to turn down again I can only turn down to about 20 amps. If I turn the main switch off and back on it will drop back down until I turn it up again. I have read in the above post that the SSR-40VA Fotek might need a 1M pot I may give that a try. If anyone can help me I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

[sambedded]

I have read in the above post that the SSR-40VA Fotek might need a 1M pot I may give that a try. If anyone can help me I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

Fotek require 1M pot for 380V. In your case (I assume you are using 240V) 500K pot shuld be fine. Either your pot is broken (measure it by multimeter/ohmmeter) or your SSR out of spec (there are lots of counterfeit SSRs on Chinese market)

One example: http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg26 ... GP0002.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[sawyersam]

Sambedded you are correct I'm using 240V I have checked the pot and it works fine. That it not a picture I want to see in my inclosure. The controller I have came from Ucell I think I believe Panda posted the link to it some time ago, but don't hold me to it I have slept since I purchased it. Would you recommend that I replace the controller with another of the same or replace it with some other type controller?

[rad14701]

I have used a SSR-40VA Fotek Solid State Relay wired as the diagrams found on this forum with a 500K pot. My problem is if I turn the main switch on with the control turned down I can control the amperage down to 5 amps but when I turn it up to 22 amps and try to turn down again I can only turn down to about 20 amps. If I turn the main switch off and back on it will drop back down until I turn it up again. I have read in the above post that the SSR-40VA Fotek might need a 1M pot I may give that a try. If anyone can help me I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

Have you seen THIS...???

[ufo8mycow]

Have you seen THIS...???

I have 2 fotek ssr's, one is a ssr 40 va that i got from amazon and I am pretty sure it is real and the other is an ssr 25 va that I got from ebay and I am pretty sure it is a cheap knockoff. I will try to post some pics of them tomorrow to show the obvious difference.

[sawyersam]

Thanks Rad, no I had not seen this I didn't buy mine from ebay but it looks just like the one I have. I guess I'll be hunting another controller. Has any one used the United Automation's I think it's a PSR-25. The company's info on it says it needs a filter but I haven't been able to find one. Does it work ok without one? Any other options would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[sawyersam]

I was wondering if anyone on here could tell me the pros and cons of the 2 heat control builds in the new distiller page. One is with the psr-25 the other is the ssrman-1p. The psr-25 looks like a cheaper build with less components and would be a direct replacement for my junk Fotek. Is the ssrman-1p build a better controller? I wouldn't mind spending the extra cash if it's going to be a better control otherwise if I use the psr-25 I wouldn't need to add a 24VAC transformer. Thanks!

[MuleKicker]

The PSR is just as good with fewer components. Easier to build. Yes, Fotek is proving to be junk.

[sambedded]

Yes, Fotek is proving to be junk.

Original Fotek is OK. The only problem counterfeit (fake) Fotek SSR. If you are buying cheap FOTEK on eBay - there is a big chance to buy fake one.

[sawyersam]

Thanks for the help everybody!

[sawyersam]

The PSR is just as good with fewer components. Easier to build. Yes, Fotek is proving to be junk.

MuleKicker, I have a crydom D2425-10 but the input voltage is 3.5-26V instead of 3-32V will the SSRMAN-1p work ok with this ssr?
I think I just figured it out and I think the answer is no! It looks like the voltage from the SSRMAN-1p could go above 26 volts. Please let me know your opinion. Thanks!

[Bob421]

Thanks Rad, no I had not seen this I didn't buy mine from ebay but it looks just like the one I have. I guess I'll be hunting another controller. Has any one used the United Automation's I think it's a PSR-25. The company's info on it says it needs a filter but I haven't been able to find one. Does it work ok without one? Any other options would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I have been using a PSR-25 for a few years now(brewing beer too) with no filter and its running fine and no one has complained about any interference.

[varocketry]

The 10000w controller from Ebay. Dual VOlt/Amp display from Ebay. Contactor from AUber but I'm told I really should have used a 3 pole and a latching circuit.

[AussieCol]

Hi, as a newbie can anyone please explain the benefits, if any, of a heater controller on either a pot still or a Boka? I have an SCR controller plus wattmeter on my electric 1380watt boiler but want to understand the benefits of using it to give a slow, steady, boil for my two stills - the two still heads screw into the same boiler lid. I'm using the pot for try to (hopefully) get a reasonable Scotch whisky and a smooth Brandy, and the Boka for plain neutral at around 95% ABV. Thanks, AussieCol

[rad14701]

Hi, as a newbie can anyone please explain the benefits, if any, of a heater controller on either a pot still or a Boka? I have an SCR controller plus wattmeter on my electric 1380watt boiler but want to understand the benefits of using it to give a slow, steady, boil for my two stills - the two still heads screw into the same boiler lid. I'm using the pot for try to (hopefully) get a reasonable Scotch whisky and a smooth Brandy, and the Boka for plain neutral at around 95% ABV. Thanks, AussieCol

With a power controller you can accurately adjust the amount of power input, the amount of vapor produced at proof, whether smearing is taking place, reflux ratio limits, pot still output speed, and the list goes on... By not having one you have been lucky that you can match your coolant flow to the vapor produced and not have your Bokakob column choke and flood...

[sambedded]

ElementControllerv3.jpg

The 10000w controller from Ebay. Dual VOlt/Amp display from Ebay. .

What kind of Volt/Amp meter are you going to use? if its like this one http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Digital-AC-300V- ... cc2&_uhb=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow it will be burned out if you connected it as on your diagram.

[Aussiedownunder01]

Those digital ones work on 50 cycle current try using them an a controler you alter the cycle current mine dident work [big bang ] i now have an analogue one no problems now

[varocketry]

Sambedded
AussueDownUnder:

That's exactly the unit I purchased on EBAY. Their ad doesn't say anything about it being 50 hertz.
Are you both reasonably sure of this? Haven 't others use this V/A meter in their designs.

WOW, incredible timing as I finished the mock wiring buildup tonight with this unit. I am going to disassemble and spray paint the box, then reassemble all parts.

What do I need to use instead?

[Aussiedownunder01]

Cant find the link to the one i used but i recon this would do http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AC-250V-Anal ... 19d4791aeb" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[Aussiedownunder01]

Heres mine in its box

[F6Hawk]

Not sure you want a volt meter; rather an ammeter would be better, so you can see the power you are using and know what it gets you, so you can reproduce it on future runs.

[sambedded]

Sambedded
AussueDownUnder:

That's exactly the unit I purchased on EBAY. Their ad doesn't say anything about it being 50 hertz.
...

What do I need to use instead?

It's not 50Hz Issue. It' s problem with that amp/voltmeter primitive power supply. It doesn't stand power waveform AFTER SSR. You need to connect power to voltmeter from line before SSR. This way it will work OK and show you heater AMP levee, but constant voltage.

[varocketry]

Sambedded:

Ok, this is different and there's some confusion, apparently, as there's NO SSR in my schematic. That's a CONTACTOR shown in the diagram.

So, given that, perhaps there is no issue with the way it's used in my diagram? Correct?

[sambedded]

Sambedded:

Ok, this is different and there's some confusion, apparently, as there's NO SSR in my schematic.

So, given that, perhaps there is no issue with the way it's used in my diagram? Correct?

Talking about SSR I mention any type of phase-angle controller. So yor voltmeter should be connected to other side of Your SCR regulator.