Litebread's Pot Still

[Litebread]

After collecting input from the forums and a few days of construction, my pot still with shotgun condenser is complete. I gave it a good soaking in vinegar water and a cleaning run with the same and then fired up some real likkor.

The still performed beautifully and I couldn't be more happy! It came up to temp and after collecting the foreshots I swapped in a wide mouth jar and was able to get a nice "twisted" stream of ~65%.

As I mentioned in the shotgun condenser thread my boiler and heating are the weakest links at the moment but I'm on the prowl for suitable upgrades to both. The connection to the boiler is a threaded one that uses an "easy flange" type of setup as well as a Teflon gasket.

Now for some pics. I'm no copper god so ignore my less than perfect solder joints please, lol.

After the soak

Here is a pic as I'm setting up for the run. you can get a glimpse of the still to boiler connection here and some of the bulldog clips are in place though the total number I use is near double what you see here.

Setting up for the run

Here is a closer view of the output side of things. I intend to place my as yet unfinished parrot here and that is the reason for the large mixing bowl holding the foreshot container. Not the most ideal setup but I couldn't wait to get the first run going.

Closer view of collection end

As I said in my previous thread, I can't thank the forum members enough for all the invaluable input and am looking forward to your further input and critique,
-Litebread

[rad14701]

That rig will get the job done...

Looks like you discovered that you have way more weight cantilevered off that thin pot lid, requiring a support stand... Those tri-clamps and the shotgun condenser, plus water weight, plus fittings, all add up quick...

Not so sure you'll have good luck with that hot plate however, unless you bypass the On-Off cycling and use a phase angle power controller...

Are the while seals made from PTFE plumbers tape...??? That's the only acceptable synthetic to use in contact with high proof alcohol...

[Litebread]

Yeah I was pretty sure the weight would be an issue and actually constructed the stand in conjunction with the still. The clamps will hold the column upright but its just too risky in my mind and not worth even trying IMO.

Yeah, the hot plate is by far the weakest link in the setup. As soon as I can acquire a more suitable boiler I plan on installing an internal element and controller.

The white gaskets are actually made from pure 1/8" PTFE (Teflon) and were custom cut for me by a hose, rubber, and gasket supplier I am fortunate enough to have locally. There is also a custom cut gasket that rests between the easy flange at the base of the riser and the sink basket on the lid that is compressed via the slip nut seen in the images.

-Litebread

[bellybuster]

nice rig, I like the support, beats my notched 2X4

[chrisc69]

looks good i personally if i was to electrify a still would be a 50l keg or a bit bigger and you could addapt a fitting for that im planning on a shotgun condenser for my pot still i have all the parts just the price of the gas + oxygen is a killer and im moving soon
i want to mod my keg fully first before i bother building a full setup will be 1 or 2 elements and 1 of those will be on a temp controller the other is to shut off after i get to a boil just a idea for you to use if you like

[Litebread]

Well after much searching and many good runs in its current form, I have acquired a new boiler. Its a 7.75gal rubber coated miller keg. It has a crack in the rubber near the top but its only in the rubber.

New Boiler Candidate

After giving it a good looking over and seeing how it was all made I began to see if it was workable. I used a 4" holesaw to score the rubber coating and then drilled a 1 1/4" hole for the SS ferrel.

Rubber Cut and Hole Drilled

I will begin grinding the hole to fit the ferrel and start soldering this evening. Planning a drain setup that protrudes through the bottom side of the rubber "foot" and allows the keg to set flat and still drain. As work progresses I'll post back with more pics and keep everyone posted.

Wish me luck,
Litebread

[Litebread]

Well work moves forward on the new boiler. I have the SS ferrel soldered in place as well as the pipe for the drain.

SS Ferrel for Element

The drain setup consists of a 3/8" elbow and a short length of pipe the goes from the bottom center of the boiler and out through the rubber skirt and will eventually have a valve attached.

Drain Pipe Setup

Drain/Boiler Connection

More to come,
Litebread

[DAD300]

I currently use a rubberized keg for storage, but it will make a perfect electric rig. Good job.

[W Pappy]

Looks good nice work!!

[S-Cackalacky]

Wondering if the heat will cause problems with the rubber. If not, it should be a good insulator. Nice job.

[Litebread]

I've ran it now a couple dozen times and while it does get warm, it never approaches the melting point of the coating. Even during construction when applying the torch heat to do all the soldering it never even acted like it was going to melt. It's not shown in the pictures but I soldered on a threaded coupler to the end of the drain pipe for threading on the valve and it was less than half an inch away and even then the coating held its own against the heat.

As far as insulating... This thing will definitely hold the heat. I have finished a run late in the evening, removed the still head and rinsed it but left the boiler for the morning, only to find it still steaming hot. I also attribute the fact that I can maintain a healthy output rate at 1kw or less of power once everything is up to temp to the coating, very little power is wasted to radiant heat loss. Another plus is while the coating does get hot on the outer surface it never gets to the point of blistering you. You can place your hand flat on the side of the thing and hold it there for an extended time with no fear of being burned... Try that with a normal SS keg and see the results!

All in all, I wouldn't hesitate at all in recommending the coated kegs as boilers. They take a bit more time to prepare for drilling as the coating requires some extra work to remove where needed, but the tradeoff is worth it in the long run IMO.

-Litebread