Heating Element Control

[bellybuster]

I believe that is my drawing... crayons are great...

the spare leg does not need to be used, the center leg is common, the right leg is clockwise to increase, the left leg is CCW. Some pots are reversed.

usually when the pot has no effect it is due to having a voltage input SSR instead of a resistance input.

[cal805]

I've tried center and both right and left, with no luck, same result no change in voltage or amps. There is a difference in right or left leg one is an open circuit and one is a closed circuit.

I've all ready sent back my ssr, I guess I'll try a new one from a different company

"usually when the pot has no effect it is due to having a voltage input SSR instead of a resistance input"

I've tried that too thinking the srr was miss labeled, nope same result nothing.

[bellybuster]

have you metered the pot to ensure it actually rises and falls in resistance as you turn it?

"There is a difference in right or left leg one is an open circuit and one is a closed circuit."

open or closed to what?? ground? or the centre leg?

[bellybuster]

05148.png (4.74 KiB) Viewed 5993 times

[mystakilla]

Oh Belly, your diagrams are getting much much better!!!


Cal805, Ive gotten bad POTS out of box before, i always test them now before inserting into units.

[bellybuster]

Oh Belly, your diagrams are getting much much better!!!

haha, stayed in the lines this time. No alcohol involved either.

I agree sounds like a bad pot.

[crazyk78]

Just saying guys I love this thread but it does my head in because its 117 odd pages.

At some point and I know others have had issues because they get confused about all the differing opinions but isn't it worth splitting this thread to make it easier.

So if I'm interested in using an SSR then I look at that or a Triac based design then I look there.

Just my opinion and would make the thread much easier and informative to follow.

[varocketry]

I'm back from vacation and the MOUSER package has arrived. One question as I begin to construct this...

In the TRIAC controller circuit discussed, are any of the components such as DIAC, 32v trigger sensitive to direction of installation (i.e., +/-)? I know the resistor isn't and I don't think the capacitor is ...

But I'm not familiar with the DIAC or its function.

[rad14701]

Just saying guys I love this thread but it does my head in because its 117 odd pages.

At some point and I know others have had issues because they get confused about all the differing opinions but isn't it worth splitting this thread to make it easier.

So if I'm interested in using an SSR then I look at that or a Triac based design then I look there.

Just my opinion and would make the thread much easier and informative to follow.

There ARE other controller topics based on what's here... Check the New Distiller Reading Lounge... But this topic goes on and on... Lot's of great info if you winnow the grain from the chaff...

[crazyk78]

Have to admit I didn't look there because I subscribe to this thread but still tons and tons of info here which I just see as being garbled cause there are too many different topics going on.

But I just thought it would be easier to stop this thread and direct ppl to specific threads.

But we should do what the masses want

[CH3CH2OH]

I have one of the original MK 5500 controllers from about 3 years back. Just the pot knob through the face plate of a 4x4 electrical box.

I want to put it into a larger enclosure and add a amp meter and preferably an on/off switch.

Any suggestions for an on/off switch besides wiring it up in a 30 amp disconnect switch enclosure?

what are others using as a switch?

I thought about using a sub-panel box and using a breaker as the on off switch but a sub panel off a sub panel is a no no!!!

[Mazriam]

I have one of the original MK 5500 controllers from about 3 years back. Just the pot knob through the face plate of a 4x4 electrical box.

I want to put it into a larger enclosure and add a amp meter and preferably an on/off switch.

Any suggestions for an on/off switch besides wiring it up in a 30 amp disconnect switch enclosure?

what are others using as a switch?

I thought about using a sub-panel box and using a breaker as the on off switch but a sub panel off a sub panel is a no no!!!

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-30-A ... jiOFT-f8po" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

It's what i use!

[Theo]

I added a two pole switch rated at 30 amps. Two pole switches will turn off both legs of 220. It was available off the shelf at my local hardware store for $9.

[WIZz]

I'm in need of a way to control/reduce the temperature of my still, I have a 25L boiler with a 240v 1380w element.

I have no experience with electronics so me building something isn't an option, I would buy something already made to do the job if possible, can anyone point me in the right direction?

I was looking at this on ebay but don't know if it's suitable or even how to hook it up, the most I've done is put a new plug on an extension cord and that had three wires like the heating element, the item on ebay looks like it only has connectors for 2 wires.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-4000W-SC ... 5113wt_961" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[varocketry]

Wizz:

I don't know if this vendor is visible on your ebay.au but several of us have used it. I use it now for a 5500w 240v heater. It has a heat sink attached and should be more than enough for your 1380w requirement at a price similar to that you found.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-10000W-AC-2 ... 3a7fc93e37

[WIZz]

Wizz:

I don't know if this vendor is visible on your ebay.au but several of us have used it. I use it now for a 5500w 240v heater. It has a heat sink attached and should be more than enough for your 1380w requirement at a price similar to that you found.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-10000W-AC-2 ... 3a7fc93e37

Hi varocketry, Thanks for the info mate.

Is this a phase angle controller?

I assume I would need to mount this is a plastic box which i think i could get from a local electronics hobby shop, to hook up the wires I'm not sure if it's the earth or neutral wires that are just joined together.

I was just looked at it again and noticed two metal pins sticking out from the dial controller on the board, do you just fold them in flat against the controller?

[varocketry]

Here in the USA, you'd connect Hot1 and Hot2 to the two lugs on the IN side and the OUT Side of the SCR/PAC go the two leads on the heating element.
Your Earth/Ground wire needs to connect to the Ground tab on the Rheostat of the SCR/PAC and then on to the keg/boiler to ground to the shell of the boiler.

You don't use the Neutral wire.

You'd likely want a on/off switch and maybe a fuse in there.
The DPDT Switch that Mazriam showed above would work fine, to get ya started. Both Hots got through that switch.

[WIZz]

I should have mentioned I'm in Australia.

I found a diagram on another site for Australian wires but it's for wiring up the parts from scratch, I'm hoping it's usable.


I did find some power controllers kits but don't know if any of them would do the job properly, I just don't know what I should be looking for with a controller, the jaycar one sounds good but is it.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5478" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
http://www.photonage.com.au/10a-240vac- ... 33180defc9" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[varocketry]

Wizz:
That's a different device and is wired differently. Stilldragon knows what they're doing if you use their gear.

[maheel]

I should have mentioned I'm in Australia.

I found a diagram on another site for Australian wires but it's for wiring up the parts from scratch, I'm hoping it's usable.


I did find some power controllers kits but don't know if any of them would do the job properly, I just don't know what I should be looking for with a controller, the jaycar one sounds good but is it.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5478" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
http://www.photonage.com.au/10a-240vac- ... 33180defc9" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

you could also go with one of these
just your active goes "in then back out" on that green wire point
neutral just goes direct to element
earth goes to keg (and if your using a metal control box earth that two)
this size might need a PC fan (i like 240V PC server fans)


http://www.ebay.com/itm/3800W-SCR-AC-Mo ... 3cd598eca4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

or these are like the SD one, still needs a pentometer and a box etc (might need fan)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25A-25-380V-AC- ... 0027029%26" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

get a sparky or someone who knows what they are doing to wire it (stay safe)

[shine406]

Would this be a good start for someone who is not up to the task of building their own electric heating system?...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/220v-240v-110v- ... 2ec55075dd

Right now I am using a keg for a boiler, someday I might get a 26 gallon milk can boiler. Would the 5500w system be enough for 26 gallons? Anyone have a rough estimate on the heat up time of a full keg with this kit?

[sambedded]

Would this be a good start for someone who is not up to the task of building their own electric heating system?...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/220v-240v-110v- ... 2ec55075dd

I wouldn't recommend this one.
- You don't need a pid unless your are going to do brewing
- That switch only disengage a PID but leave one leg connected to your heater. So you need to unplag that controller every time you are not using it.

Right now I am using a keg for a boiler, someday I might get a 26 gallon milk can boiler. Would the 5500w system be enough for 26 gallons? Anyone have a rough estimate on the heat up time of a full keg with this kit?

5500W is OK for distilling, but you will wait around 2 hours to bring it to boiling .

[shine406]

Has anyone tried out mile hi's set up?....

http://www.milehidistilling.com/dual-te ... ontroller/

I am intimidated by the thought of building my own controller just because of parts selection. I believe am capable of wiring such a unit but do not have the knowledge to order the proper parts.

[varocketry]

Shine:

Take the easy route if you not really, really comfortable building these... look in the CLASSIFIED section of this board ... the post labeled "MK5500s for sale" ... tried and true.
MK's a mentor here on this site. Easy peasy, you'll be connected and cooking water.

[BanjoInWA]

Hi, I've built a 3", 4 plate column (flute). I've been running it successfully with propane for quite some time now. As the weather gets colder I need to bring it inside out of the cold and have decided to make the leap to electric. I have very little electrical knowledge but have read and studied many, many threads on the subject. (I've been scolded before for not researching before asking questions)
I settled on the DIY kit from stilldragon. Two things I wanted to add to the kit was 1) a shut off at the controller. 2) a bypass switch to be used for initial heat up.
I consulted an electrician friend of mine and wired it up. I have included a drawing of how it is wired. As I was building it, I saw what I thought might be a potential problem area. I've got 2 wires going to one lead of the element. One from the three way switch and one from the load side of the SSR. In my simple mind this would "energize" the SSR when running it in bypass/full power mode. Thus negating the purpose of the bypass.
Do I simply not have a good understanding of how the SSR works or I am correct in seeing a potential problem? I have yet to plug it in and test it as I wanted a better understanding. I am unable to consult my electrician friend until next week so I thought I'd throw it out into the forums for some advice.

Thanks for any help.

ControllerWiring.jpg (5.81 KiB) Viewed 9048 times

[drinkingdog]

I'm not sure what if any problems you may encounter with it hooked up like that. I was wondering why do you want to bypass your controller? I would think you could achieve the same result just turning the pot switch up all the way to full on.

[BanjoInWA]

drinkingdog, thanks for looking at my drawing. It was mentioned somewhere that bypassing the controller increases the life expectancy of the SSR. Kind of like: why use it when you don't have too.

[drinkingdog]

I guess that makes sense. I'm not sure what all the DIY kit comes with, but I think one good way to increase the life of the control module is a fan to provide proper cooling. I have yet to make my first drop of alcohol but I think it would be better to bring the boiler up to temperature a little slower verses the full on that bypassing the ssr would cause. I'm in the middle of putting my controller together and the ssr control module wasn't very expensive. My heating element was the most expensive item besides wire and plugs.

[BanjoInWA]

The kit came with a PSR-25, a 2w pot, and a heat transfer fin thing. I also heard that fans help out a bunch and will definitely add one as soon as I can source one. Thanks for your help on this. I'm more nervous about plugging this in than I was when I first put 190 proof liquor over top an open flame. So far I've been very safe and I want to keep my track record going.

[BanjoInWA]

When running propane, I crank up the flame pretty high until I see the thermometer start to twitch then back it way off and allow my plates to fill. I normally takes about 1.5 hrs to bring 10 gallons of wash up to temp and have everything stabilize into a nice reflux. I'm curious to see how this new electric setup will compare.