Concentric Hybrid/Reflux build - Advice

[apdb]

Beginnings of my first Copper Porno

The Plan: I am going to build Rads Concentric/Hybrid Reflux...
I've decided upon a 2"/1.5"/1" version on a 15.5 gal Sanke keg and heated by a propane burner.
I would like to call on the advice of others who know what the hell they are talking about.
This is (mostly) all salvaged materials so I have one chance at cutting because I'm poorass. I should mention that I'll be removing the elbows on the 2" pipes. I could probably just wing it, but I don't want to be kicking myself down the road.
I would like my still to be in three lengths: still head directly on keg (potstill), a short column, and a tall packed reflux column.
My goal is to be able to hit azeotropic when I choose. I would also like to be able to make my full flavoured recipes using the potstill style.

So to begin.. my first question is on the still head design. I was hoping to be able to use the 1foot section i have (2") for the water jacket around the 1.5" inner pipe. (Its the third pipe from the left). Is this going to be long enough to do a great job for the cooling portion?
Next... On this size still head, what size reservoir should I be aiming for in total (including 3/8" takeoff before the needle) 1oz,1.5oz,2oz? more?
This question is a spoon feed (i apologize) ... how tall should my reflux column be so I can reach my azeo goal? I have 6' to work with. My thinking was maybe cutting it so I have a 4' column leaving me 2' to make a short lightly packed hybrid. Or what about 5' and then a 1' short column. My lengths would be connected via couplings wrapped in teflon tape or paste.
I plan on experimenting with copper mesh and also scoria... anyone wanna sell me coke? That sounds so wrong... but some of you get me I hope?

Thats my questions for the time being.. there will be more as time goes on. I'll post my crappy design drawing to help paint the big picture shortly.
Thank you Mentors for your knowledge,
Aaron

[apdb]

[bluenose]

I'm still new to this, but I have been watching Rad's thread on this design as I think I may go this way too.

So to begin.. my first question is on the still head design. I was hoping to be able to use the 1foot section i have (2") for the water jacket around the 1.5" inner pipe. (Its the third pipe from the left). Is this going to be long enough to do a great job for the cooling portion?

according to baron, yes

Next... On this size still head, what size reservoir should I be aiming for in total (including 3/8" takeoff before the needle) 1oz,1.5oz,2oz? more?

I think Rad's is 1.5oz, but it could be 2oz

This question is a spoon feed (i apologize) ... how tall should my reflux column be so I can reach my azeo goal? I have 6' to work with.

I believe 48" is the minimum column length that will approach 95% takeoff

My thinking was maybe cutting it so I have a 4' column leaving me 2' to make a short lightly packed hybrid. Or what about 5' and then a 1' short column. My lengths would be connected via couplings wrapped in teflon tape or paste.
I plan on experimenting with copper mesh and also scoria... anyone wanna sell me coke? That sounds so wrong... but some of you get me I hope?

Thats my questions for the time being.. there will be more as time goes on. I'll post my crappy design drawing to help paint the big picture shortly.
Thank you Mentors for your knowledge,
Aaron

[rad14701]

apdb, for a 2" version I would shoot for a 2oz collection cup volume... Better too much than too little, but that also depends on whether you place your needle valve above or below your product cooling condenser... If you put it below the condenser you can have a smaller collection cup volume within the concentric head... It would also make it easier to remove the valve if needed for true pot still mode... I have found that with a 1/4" needle valve I can still end up with unwanted reflux in pure pot still mode and whether a 3/8" needle valve would resolve that I am uncertain...

I'd go with a 1 foot section of packed column for hybrid mode because if it gets too long you could have issues pulling enough flavor... I'm amazed at how high of proof I can get with just 6" of SS scrubber in my 1.25" column... Running at just a bit slower than a broken stream, yet almost more drips per second than I can readily count, my Foreshots and Heads come off around 186 - 188 proof...

For the reflux column I'd go 42" to 48"... I prefer having several different length column sections that I can mix and match for various column lengths...

For your concentric head I'd recommend between 12" and 18" of cooling jacket... And if you want to reduce costs you could make rings of 1/4" tubing and solder them in place rather than using reducers... I'll try just about anything to eliminate pricy fittings costs... Remember, reducers are beefy because they have to handle the burden of keeping full 10' sections of copper firmly connected and are overkill for our purposes for the most part...

Hope this helps... Get building...

[apdb]

Thank you gentlemen...
On someones thread I read recently?.. he had his "product cooler" as the neck of his parrot(like a mini liebig)! It seemed brilliant. For a LM like this would that be a good idea. Am I missing something here. How come I haven't seen that before?
I was originally gonna fashion up your little x shaped cooler you have from your apt still, Rad.
I understand what your saying about the fittings, way over kill but the receipts are long gone now. Still in the market for a needle and heat source. I'm contemplating a 60000 btu burner at the local Canadian Tire for $45.
Thanks again, fellas.
Aaron

[bluenose]

IMO, Canadian Tire isn't a good source for plumbing supplies, unless you get them at a discount, which I never see.

Try to find out where the plumbing contractors in your area go for that stuff. You might not get the contractor price, but you'll probably do better than CT. Better yet, befriend a plumber and get them to buy your stuff for you

[apdb]

Not plumbing stuff... just an outdoor propane burner I happened upon. $49.99 cast iron frame 60k btu's. I actually have two 1/2 barrel SS kegs. The other i plan on going electric with. Let me get a couple recipes under my belt before I get too ahead of myself. I agree with finding a plumber though... thats how i got my Universal keg connection put together. Now i don't have to learn how to braze stainless to copper. Any 2" pipe drops right down on top of it and I'm sure it'll seal up pretty good with a little lasagne noodle and old wet sock! lol
Aaron

[apdb]

Finally got my hands on my buddy's Dremmel and ground out the stops on my reducers. Slight pain in my ass but got er done. So I now have a question about the centering downspout returning distillate to the column. Heres a couple photos....
Is it better to have less "dead air" space (1), should the pipe be more flush with the reducer(2).. or should i just stick it down there and quit dicking around(3). (we're not building rockets here). How would all that effect where the eventual thermometer will end up.
Aaron

[apdb]

...and my last question I have until I've put solder to copper...

When making the reservoir portion the throat tube seems way too high up into the condenser section in order to make the pool 2oz. Should I follow my instinct and lower it down a touch or is that to be expected. This picture here shows approximately where the final resting place would end up for about 2oz. With the 3/8" takeoff tube in place, I can expect to drop it a touch more as well. Again, I know I'm perhaps over thinking this thing. I want to get it right the first time.
Just hoping someone could chime in with their experience, good or bad.
Aaron

[rad14701]

apdb, that vapor tube height looks fine... One of mine has the tube extending up almost 4" and it works flawlessly... And considering how you will be using a 3/8" take off you have the added volume there...

[bluenose]

How long is your 1.5" section? I'm sure there's some ratio between collecting area and condensing area that works best, I just don't know what it is

Are you using 2" outside your 1.5"? If so, how are you connecting it? I'll be doing a 1 x 1.5 x 2 as well, but still haven't decided how long each piece will be yet

[apdb]

Im going for it. Thanks so much for great help.

@bluenose ... Im going with the advise of rad and making my 2" cooling jacket to be around 12" long (or slightly longer) with a wire coiled around for water to flow. That should leave me some space for the two 2" - 1" reducers that I have. Im only using the reducers for simplicity. Rads idea of using 1/4" tube would be much cheaper if your handy with a torch.
Aaron
I have 1.5' of 1.5" tube to work with for the condenser.

[apdb]

After pissin around collecting parts, changing careers, raising babies, paying bills and reading reading reading.... TADA!!!
Cooling system is leak free. I've committed to electric and just have to assemble my box and figure out how to protect my element connection. Man soldering is fun once you start. I hope to start a sacrificial run soon.

[bearriver]

Badass! I like the reflux circuit you added

It looks like you are getting things all figured out.

[apdb]

Hahahah. I was hoping you'd spot that. Thanks for the great idea!!

[rad14701]

The only thing I would suggest is to loop your reflux condensers outlet line up higher than the input to insure that it remains fully filled with cooling water... Looking good otherwise...

[apdb]

My wifes grandfather of 88 years moved into our home this week. While the wife was at work I decided maybe its time for the men to bond. Well grampy was a good still hand. I had him labelling jars and passing me new ones each time they filled. It was birdwatchers that i should have refluxed but it had been sitting in the basement for about a month and a half and my column needs some work done.
Grampy thinks we should try a rum recipe next, that old pirate.
Anyway this picture is mostly here to show Rads design detuned in potstill mode ran with a 5500w element. It works like a charm.
Again thanks to the collection of great minds here on the forum.
Aaron

[Pyewacket]

Great job! Sounds like you guys had a lot of fun.

[still_stirrin]

Another concentric operator here. Gotta love 'em. So dang efficient too. It hardly needs any coolant flow to knock down the vapors.

I also can set up to run in potstill mode. But it's easier to put the shotgun on the pothead and strip. Faster takeoff I think.

Looking good there.
ss