Heating Element Control

[Edwin Croissant]

the wood is not a "proper" buss bar, it actually acting as an insulator for the bolts
keeping them from touching anything metal. not good ?

No, that is not good, the moisture in the wood will conduct the electricity and could set the wood on fire. The screws you used on the side to secure the wood will be under electrical tension also. For your own safety please use a proper terminal block.

[frodo]

I lucked out, buddy has a 2''x2'' piece of solid pvc..

I like that, will look better. Thanks Edwin Croissant , you got me stirred up

and the pvc fell in my lap

[Edwin Croissant]

Frodo, that is nice to hear
I wrote that your screws would be under tension but I see that your box is made from steel. So what probably could happen in the long run is that the current through the wood to the box was going to trip your ground fault circuit breaker. And that is annoying. O yeah, you really got me with that spare element

What type of Amp Volt meter are you going to use?

[frodo]

2 pieces pvc sammich with 2 brass closet bolts inbetween
bolted together. then bolted onto a bracket
have not cut the excess off the bolts yet, need a new cut off wheel for my dremel


led digital volt meter panel amp meter ac 80-300v
100 amp dual display

be here wednesday
on/off switch thursday
pot. LOL I have no idea, its siting in customs or on a fishing boat between here and china

[frodo]

I am kicking an idea around in my head.

let me bounce off you guys. give me your thoughts

take a

30 amp rv plug

cut one end off, then, replace the screws on the element with longer screws.

permanently attaching plug to element.

[still_stirrin]

Frodo...Frodo...Frodo. What are you doing?

It seems you always try to "cobble" things together. And your motivation is to use salvage materials to save money. Sometimes it's better to invest in the proper equipment..."buy once...cry once"...especially when it comes to safety. I strongly recommend using the correct connectors and fittings for connection of a heating element which will conduct up to 25 amps on a 220VAC circuit.

A recreational vehicle's land line may have big connectors, but unless they're rated for the power (voltage and current load), they can break down. And burning up electrical circuits in the house, garage, still house, etc. because of a connector short out, isn't ever worth saving a buck or two on materials.

I admit that the proper twist lock connectors are expensive. But you don't, or won't have to worry they'll handle the loads you're expose them to.

I'm sure if you plumbed houses with this same type of "cobbled together" mentality that you'd have difficulty with customer satisfaction.
ss

[cranky]

I made a pig tail for mine from a twist lock marine extension cord. One extension cord gave me 2 connectors and I bought 3 cords for less than the price of the 2 connectors in the store and have an extension cord long enough to run anywhere in my garage or even living room if I want. Being thrifty can be good as long as it is also safe but safety is a priority.

[frodo]

Still Stirr'n,

I resemble them Remarks!!!!

i think i need counseling and at least 2 or 3 years medication and intense therapy.

after the cobbled remark.

hide.gif (1.26 KiB) Viewed 6193 times

where shall i send the bill for the copays?

107172015.GIF (32.05 KiB) Viewed 6193 times

does anyone know how you can put the smilley/emoticon in line instead of at the bottom of the page?

[still_stirrin]

Frodo, I apologize.

I didn't mean to insult you. I like your initiative and "outside the box" spontaneity. It certainly is creative. I do get concerned with the safety of some of your thoughts (designs??) sometimes, like the rheostat control circuit. But hey, it was a question worth asking.

So, if you use the RV hardware to connect the power to your controller, I think a short pigtail to the heat element with the connections covered to prevent electrical shock is a wise decision (just like Cranky advised). Your connections don't have to be complicated...just safe. There are so many build threads here to use as a "go by" that you should be able to get something put together.

And I have complete confidence in your plumbing ability too. (I plumbed for 6 years back in the 70's, so I know you know your stuff).

Keep up the good work and please don't let me (and my comments) get under your skin....I know, I know...I am taking lessons from my mentor, Rad. But I really do respect the lessons I've learned from him along the way. Really.
ss

[still_stirrin]

...does anyone know how you can put the smilley/emoticon in line instead of at the bottom of the page?

Do you mean like this? Or how else do you want to do it?

[pfshine]

Or like this

[frodo]

Frodo, I apologize.

I didn't mean to insult you. I like your initiative and "outside the box" spontaneity. It certainly is creative. I do get concerned with the safety of some of your thoughts (designs??) sometimes, like the rheostat control circuit. But hey, it was a question worth asking.

So, if you use the RV hardware to connect the power to your controller, I think a short pigtail to the heat element with the connections covered to prevent electrical shock is a wise decision (just like Cranky advised). Your connections don't have to be complicated...just safe. There are so many build threads here to use as a "go by" that you should be able to get something put together.

And I have complete confidence in your plumbing ability too. (I plumbed for 6 years back in the 70's, so I know you know your stuff).

Keep up the good work and please don't let me (and my comments) get under your skin....I know, I know...I am taking lessons from my mentor, Rad. But I really do respect the lessons I've learned from him along the way. Really.
ss

No problems, i like to joke around, and have fun,

If you cant laugh at your self, your kinda fuked up !!!!

The emoticons,, Not the ones to the left.

but the ones in my down loads. can they be put inline?

like here...

boobs.gif (3.38 KiB) Viewed 6209 times

[bearriver]

I bought 30 amp 240v twistlocks brand new for $7 each. I wouldn't call that expensive. As a bonus, I get this weird satisfied feeling of success everytime I twist them together. That click sound always makes me grin.

[frodo]

where?

[rad14701]

The emoticons,, Not the ones to the left.

but the ones in my down loads. can they be put inline?

like here...

boobs.gif

Nope...!!! They are considered attachments and as such cannot be displayed inline... They can be displayed between blocks of text, however...

[raketemensch]

Well, I only have room in my panel for a single circuit breaker, and I need 220. So I ordered one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00317 ... ge_o01_s00" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Now I'm realizing that it's two single-pole circuits, instead of one double pole, so I'm debating what to do now. I could simply attach the two breakers together, but I'm not sure if there's some circuitry in the double-pole breaker that handles the alternation of power between red/black wires or not.

Now I'm also reading that you simply can't get 220v from a single bus, so my whole plan may be out the window...

Any advice?

[ufo8mycow]

You will be fine with that breaker. You should be able to get a connector to attach them. As for the 2 poles you may need to move a circuit as they are every other terminal on the panel.

Be very careful in the panel. If at all possible turn off the main breaker first and always follow the pocket rule. Keep one hand in your pocket so that if you do something dumb it may hurt but unless you cross from one limb to another you shouldn't die.

[raketemensch]

You will be fine with that breaker. You should be able to get a connector to attach them. As for the 2 poles you may need to move a circuit as they are every other terminal on the panel.

Be very careful in the panel. If at all possible turn off the main breaker first and always follow the pocket rule. Keep one hand in your pocket so that if you do something dumb it may hurt but unless you cross from one limb to another you shouldn't die.

Yup, it's a sub-panel, and I've killed all power to it from the main panel. And tested it with a circuit tester.

I'm not sure what you mean by "move a circuit," though. What is at every other terminal?

Edit: It more likely looks like I need one of these:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Murray-Tripl ... /202253168" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Noone seems to stock them in stores, though. I love how Home Depot pushes "Ship to store" when it would take 3 weeks... Yeah, I think I'll go to Amazon, thanks.

[MORE EDIT] All of the product descriptions for the breaker that I have say that it's "120/240v," so I'm stuck wondering how it would get that 240 off a single bus.

[EVEN MORE EDIT] It looks like I'm SOL until I can get ahold of the MP23020, which would prevent me from getting 2 cleaning runs in this weekend if I hadn't just realized that I can use my generator to get the 220 for the moment. That might end up giving me surges, but it's just cleaning runs.

[muscashine]

That's what I'm going to be using at first, my 3500 watt generator. I don't have a good spot for the right plug in the house. I could add a circuit, but finding a spot would be an issue - there's really not a good place for a receptacle where I want one. I've added circuits before to my main panel and the other posters are right, it's shit dangerous and you really have to pay attention what you're doing.

[frodo]

i bet if you went to a electrical supply house instead of a hardware store, you would get one

[thatmaker]

Hey, just chiming in here.

I'm an electrician and electronics technician so if anyone has questions, I'd be happy to help out. Seems there's a bunch of people still running propane, electric seems much safer to me when there's a possibility of flammable liquids / vapor in the area.

Just finished testing my new 240V 40A controller and it works great, just need to make an enclosure for it.

Here a video of my test with a lamp. https://vimeo.com/149363219

If anyone is interested in building one, I'll make a build guide in a separate topic.

Have fun and go electric!

[cranky]

Hey, just chiming in here.

I'm an electrician and electronics technician so if anyone has questions, I'd be happy to help out. Seems there's a bunch of people still running propane, electric seems much safer to me when there's a possibility of flammable liquids / vapor in the area.

Just finished testing my new 240V 40A controller and it works great, just need to make an enclosure for it.

Here a video of my test with a lamp. https://vimeo.com/149363219

If anyone is interested in building one, I'll make a build guide in a separate topic.

Have fun and go electric!

That's an arduino controller right? I'd like to see a build thread on that.

[frodo]

Hey, just chiming in here.

I'm an electrician and electronics technician so if anyone has questions, I'd be happy to help out. Seems there's a bunch of people still running propane, electric seems much safer to me when there's a possibility of flammable liquids / vapor in the area.

Just finished testing my new 240V 40A controller and it works great, just need to make an enclosure for it.

Here a video of my test with a lamp. https://vimeo.com/149363219

If anyone is interested in building one, I'll make a build guide in a separate topic.

Have fun and go electric!

That's an arduino controller right? I'd like to see a build thread on that.

I would also,

[thatmaker]

Hey, just chiming in here.

I'm an electrician and electronics technician so if anyone has questions, I'd be happy to help out. Seems there's a bunch of people still running propane, electric seems much safer to me when there's a possibility of flammable liquids / vapor in the area.

Just finished testing my new 240V 40A controller and it works great, just need to make an enclosure for it.

Here a video of my test with a lamp. https://vimeo.com/149363219

If anyone is interested in building one, I'll make a build guide in a separate topic.

Have fun and go electric!

That's an arduino controller right? I'd like to see a build thread on that.

I would also,

Here you go! http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 85&t=59015

[muscashine]

Here you go! http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 85&t=59015

That's pretty cool. As a former electronics tinkerer I find that interesting, but seems like a lot of parts and work for me. What's the benefit to that one against say, this:

Screen Shot 2015-12-21 at 6.33.41 PM.png (77.57 KiB) Viewed 5907 times

which is basically two pieces that go together in a few minutes?

I asked because I'm using the above setup in my own controller...

I totally agree with you on electric over propane. Open flames near alcohol vapors scares the bejeezus out of me. A friend of mine has a keg with a propane burner and wants to use my still head and my old worm and I'm thinking, "dude that's freaking scary"

[thatmaker]

@ muscashine

I'm not sure there would be any difference in the output, the simplicity of the SSR is definitely a bonus.

I just wanted to see if I could do it. Plus I would use the arduino for other things.

If there were a difference I think it would be reliable phase control. Not sure if the SSR has zero-cross detection but I'm sure they exist.

[muscashine]

@ muscashine

If there were a difference I think it would be reliable phase control. Not sure if the SSR has zero-cross detection but I'm sure they exist.

That went right over my head... Hahaha.

[RedwoodHillBilly]

Not sure if the SSR has zero-cross detection but I'm sure they exist.

For that kind of phase angle controller it must have a zero crossing detector. If it didn't, it wouldn't work. I have a 70A 240V P.A. SSR that uses a 2-10V control voltage and a PID controller that I still need to find a use for. Maybe a really big electric mash tun

[robby6pack]

Thanks for all the info. I just put mine together using a dimmer switch, triac and resistor (120V). Works great. I wired it to use a receptacle and am using a 2000W element. Can I just plug another element into the receptacle if I want to add another to my keg? I used 12 awg wire throughout the circuit. Thanks.

[muscashine]

Thanks for all the info. I just put mine together using a dimmer switch, triac and resistor (120V). Works great. I wired it to use a receptacle and am using a 2000W element. Can I just plug another element into the receptacle if I want to add another to my keg? I used 12 awg wire throughout the circuit. Thanks.

Controller (800x450).jpg

I would say no... you're pushing close to 17 amps already on that circuit. I see you're using a 20 amp plug, and hope you're running a 20 amp breaker on the other end. If you wanted to add another element to your keg, you'd need another dimmer and a separate outlet on a different circuit.

At least that's the way I'm thinking... I think you can run them in series instead of parallel, but others more used to that kind of thinking will have to chime in. But I would think that in series you're still going to pull a max of 2000 watts.... because you're adding the resistance.

I went 240 because I had a clear space on the breaker and invested some money in plugs and wire and such. If you're going to spend the time and effort to wire up another circuit, why not go ahead and put in a 240 volt circuit? I'm SO glad I did... The heat up time is great.