My Scotch

[muscashine]

Ingredients:
10 gallons spring water
17 pounds 6 row malt
8 pounds peated malt

I do mine in two batches of 5 gallons/12 pounds malt barley
Its a pretty straight forward grain method.
Put the hottest water I can get out of the faucet into the still pot, dump in grains and stir. Run the element on medium heat while stirring constantly until the temp is 145, then cut the power. Add a little Amylase Enzyme just in case my thermometer is off.
Leave in the pot. Every twenty minutes add a little heat while stirring, to keep at 140-143. Do this for 3 hours. Taste. It should be sweet now. Dump into a 7 gallon ferment bucket.
Wait until the evening, then proof the yeast: Two packets of EC1118 in a bowl with a teaspoon of sugar and about 1/4 cup of warm water. Stir and wait 10 minutes, there should be a big bowl of foam. Pour the yeast into the grains and swish around. By the next morning there's audible fizzing in the bucket.

Let it work off until the grain cap falls, then strain off the grains and pour into a carboy. Let it settle out for a couple of weeks while I do the second batch. Carefully siphon the liquid off the crud at the bottom. Pour into the still pot, strip and spirit runs like normal. Jar with some charred oak at 125 proof and set in the attic for a while. When it comes out, dilute with spring water to drinking strength.

Anyone have anything to add? This is my second time trying an all-grain scotch. I used too much peated malt the first time and it was like drinking smoke.

[MichiganCornhusker]

Only thing I would add is maybe try some used oak sticks.

I also made an all peat scotch, heavy with smoke, but that's what I was aiming for.
Only problem is it's too bourbony because I used fresh toasted and charred oak.

Next batch I'm going to reduce peat, as you did, and use some leftover sticks from one of my bourbon batches.
Maybe even pre soak them in some sherry for a while.

[Pikey]

................
Maybe even pre soak them in some sherry for a while.

I think you'll find that helps a lot with the "je ne sais quoi.." About 20 ml to one of your gallons of cream sherry added at ageing stage makes a big difference I find (I put it straight in rather than soaking the sticks). Also using the 400 F for 4 hours toast as per the (T Pee ? ) nice chart and then even a spot of vanilla essence and very well seasoned but unused oak (English) seems to be a good approximation to enhancing the flavour in a "Scotch direction"

[der wo]

Adding vanilla essence is cheating.
Adding sherry is not.

Be careful with toasting. 4h 400F is a very dark toast. Most recommened here I think is 380 F 1.5h. And then a char of course. Unused oak is not optimal.

[bitter]

I toast at 380f like der wo does.

For scotch you want to use used wood.. so once through for a bourbon and then save for a scotch.

I like most thinks I oak best about 9-10 months in. For scotch. I would think oaking lighter will help.

Also most scotch seams to be a bit heady to me.

B

[Pikey]

Adding vanilla essence is cheating.
Adding sherry is not.

Be careful with toasting. 4h 400F is a very dark toast. Most recommened here I think is 380 F 1.5h. And then a char of course. Unused oak is not optimal.

Sorry, Just checked my notes and I should have said 400 for 2 hours

I did try some of those "Jack Daniel" chips befoore I started splitting my own oak - they worked ok too, until I went to my own and added sherry, but bear in mind that for Scotch it's an "Either / or" situation between old American Barrels and old Sherry Barrels and I know for a fact this oak has been cut and weathered in the log for at least 7 years. It has never seen the inside of a shelter or a kiln.

I'm happy using it.

........... For scotch. I would think oaking lighter will help.

Also most scotch seams to be a bit heady to me.

B

"Heady" - definitely, I end up putting most of my heads back in.

Getting the right amount / time of oaking is a matter of judgement and it's easy to overdo either.

Do you use a little backsett ?

[muscashine]

Only thing I would add is maybe try some used oak sticks.

I also made an all peat scotch, heavy with smoke, but that's what I was aiming for.
Only problem is it's too bourbony because I used fresh toasted and charred oak.

Next batch I'm going to reduce peat, as you did, and use some leftover sticks from one of my bourbon batches.
Maybe even pre soak them in some sherry for a while.

I'm having trouble with my oaking... I've tried some toasted oak cubes from the winemaking store, but I'm not sure if thats the right thing. It darkens the liquor, but there's no "char" on the cubes, they're just dark brown wood. The liquor I've used them in definitely has an oakey flavor but its not really smooth like some of the store bought stuff, it still has a pretty harsh bite to it. I'm thinking of just going down to lowes and buying a small piece of oak, and charring the outside with a blowtorch after cutting it to smaller pieces.

[corene1]

Have you ever thought of finding an old used sherry barrel. I found one at a local winery and the oak seems to work quite well in my Scotch type whiskies. I do sand the outside of the wood to get rid of some of the gunk . I use a 50/50 mix of this wood and some once used bourbon wood That has been previously toasted and charred. I have also found that oaking at 110 to 115 proof tends to keep the spirit lighter in both color and flavor.

[Pikey]

I'm having trouble with my oaking... I've tried some toasted oak cubes from the winemaking store, but I'm not sure if thats the right thing. It darkens the liquor, but there's no "char" on the cubes, they're just dark brown wood. The liquor I've used them in definitely has an oakey flavor but its not really smooth like some of the store bought stuff, it still has a pretty harsh bite to it. I'm thinking of just going down to lowes and buying a small piece of oak, and charring the outside with a blowtorch after cutting it to smaller pieces.

Aha ! What whisky are you comparing it to ? NOT all "scotch" is peated. Glenmorangie for example has hardly any (if any) "Peat" and is my own aspiration. Also a lot of Scotck is blended rather than Single malt and is considerably smoother than a Laphraoaig or Islay, which to my taste is just unpleasant "Fire water". - I'm wondering if you really need "Smoke" in your grain bill at all ?

If there's no char on your oak, you can always hit it with a plumbers torch and carbonise the outer faces yourself.

I think corene's suggestion above may get you closer, or look back a few posts to what others have said about oak. I don't think I actually get an "Oaky" taste in mine and I could do with a little more colour. Having said that I did once get a gallon which tasted very harsh and I put it down to too much oak for too long because it was part of a bulk wort I had made.

[Edited to put bracket back omn quote]

[MichiganCornhusker]

Lowes sells red oak, not white oak.
At least in my parts.

[rad14701]

Lowes sells red oak, not white oak.
At least in my parts.

I haven't seen white oak at either Lowes or Home Depot, just red oak...

[corene1]

You have to also check to see if the wood is chemically treated before drying. Many commercial wood producers do this to decrease the drying time of the wood . I have tried commercially produced white oak and didn't care for the results. I finally found some that was not treated and built my jar lids with it . For aging I use good oak barrel staves or cut it myself from the forest.

[muscashine]

You have to also check to see if the wood is chemically treated before drying. Many commercial wood producers do this to decrease the drying time of the wood . I have tried commercially produced white oak and didn't care for the results. I finally found some that was not treated and built my jar lids with it . For aging I use good oak barrel staves or cut it myself from the forest.

Gotcha I have white oak trees in the yard I'll cut my own I guess! I normally cut and split some for firewood each year anyway so they won't be wasted.

[bitter]

Look for a local person if it grown in your area with 2-3 year old air dried white oak. Kiln dried is just not as good and a bit more harsh in terms of tannins

B

[wishbone77]

Regarding the temperature used for barley, running the temperature slowly down from 150/151 deg to 140 deg will maximize the entire spectrum of both alpha and beta amylase enzyme activity

[muscashine]

Regarding the temperature used for barley, running the temperature slowly down from 150/151 deg to 140 deg will maximize the entire spectrum of both alpha and beta amylase enzyme activity

Thanks! The second batch ran REALLY active for a few days. Its calmed down now and getting close to being finished.

[muscashine]

Ugh I'm SO disappointed. I don't know WHAT I did. Well, I know I wasted like $35 worth of grain. Next time I want scotch I'm going to the store...

First off: My first batch of grains worked off well and I let them sit in the carboy so the yeast bodies would fall to the bottom. While waiting for the second batch to finish I noticed a fine white haze starting to form on the top in places. The next day the whole top of the carboy was coated in a white mold. it was gross looking. I racked the liquid off from under the moldy bit and poured it in the still with the first batch. So - probably need to sanitize stuff WAY better next time.
This gave me around 8 gallons in my 13 gallon still. I decided on using my liebig this time. Usually I run the worm but I've been playing with the liebig and finally seem to have gotten it dialed in, so I know what to set both the still and the water flow on. I put everything together and switched on the power. I don't use a thumper, just a pot still and Liebig. I do strips then go back and do a spirit run.
Second: When the liquid started coming out the output pipe, I could tell something was wrong. Lots of brown bits were coming out with it. Crap. I've never puked a still before but there's always that first time. I cut the power back until everything calmed down and then started slowly up again. The liquid started coming out clearer, with the occasional floater left over in the liebig tube, I guess.
Third: Testing proof. I dropped a hydrometer into the flow after the first pint or so. The proof was already below 100. I'm normally taking off the heads from my first run at around 130 (I think). Definitely not below 100. It dropped off pretty quick. By my third quart I was down to 40 proof or so, and pretty oily feeling with that wet cardboard smell. Tails already?

So.... I must have screwed up the mash is all I can think of, and not obtained full starch conversion. I was bad and didn't do an SG reading, figuring it would be what it would be. The mash tasted really sweet and the yeast foamed and bubbled away like they had something good to eat. I just don't know what happened unless it was something in batch two that was a problem. I used the same yeast for both, prepared them the same way, and even added the Amylase enzyme.

Maybe I'll try a brown sugar rum mix again and give grain a rest. My corn mash was bad too. Produced 3 quarts but didn't smell like corn liquor at all.
Brown sugar I can about do blindfolded...

[The Baker]

muscashine said, ' Well, I know I wasted like $35 worth of grain.'

Get a few hens for loss minimisation....


Geoff

[BayouShine]

Third: Testing proof. I dropped a hydrometer into the flow after the first pint or so. The proof was already below 100. I'm normally taking off the heads from my first run at around 130 (I think). Definitely not below 100.

Don't let this concern you too much. A lot of my AGs come off between 50-55%abv with 2lb/gal of grain.

[rager]

id up the grain a bit too,

also not a waste, save everything you got and go for a couple more rounds of your scotch so you can build up a good amount of low wines for a spirit run

btw i only would get pukes with barley as well.

[Saltbush Bill]

Two packets of EC1118

Wondering what made you choose EC1118 to ferment what was to be a Scotch type spirit ?

[muscashine]

Two packets of EC1118

Wondering what made you choose EC1118 to ferment what was is be a Scotch type spirit ?

That's what I had left in the cabinet. What would be a better choice?

[still_stirrin]

Wondering what made you choose EC1118 to ferment what was is be a Scotch type spirit ?

That's what I had left in the cabinet.

What would be a better choice?

For an all grain recipe (or a rum), bakers yeast is a better selection. Probably less costly too. Baker's will give you more of the grain flavors. And it's less quirky in an all grain than the champagne yeast.

Getcha' some...and try it.
ss

[muscashine]

For an all grain recipe (or a rum), bakers yeast is a better selection. Probably less costly too. Baker's will give you more of the grain flavors. And it's less quirky in an all grain than the champagne yeast.

Getcha' some...and try it.
ss

Thanks! will do.

[Pikey]

Ugh I'm SO disappointed. I don't know WHAT I did. Well, I know I wasted like $35 worth of grain. Next time I want scotch I'm going to the store...

First off: My first batch of grains worked off well and I let them sit in the carboy so the yeast bodies would fall to the bottom. While waiting for the second batch to finish I noticed a fine white haze starting to form on the top in places. The next day the whole top of the carboy was coated in a white mold. it was gross looking. I racked the liquid off from under the moldy bit and poured it in the still with the first batch. So - probably need to sanitize stuff WAY better next time.
This gave me around 8 gallons in my 13 gallon still. I decided on using my liebig this time. Usually I run the worm but I've been playing with the liebig and finally seem to have gotten it dialed in, so I know what to set both the still and the water flow on. I put everything together and switched on the power. I don't use a thumper, just a pot still and Liebig. I do strips then go back and do a spirit run.
Second: When the liquid started coming out the output pipe, I could tell something was wrong. Lots of brown bits were coming out with it. Crap. I've never puked a still before but there's always that first time. I cut the power back until everything calmed down and then started slowly up again. The liquid started coming out clearer, with the occasional floater left over in the liebig tube, I guess.
Third: Testing proof. I dropped a hydrometer into the flow after the first pint or so. The proof was already below 100. I'm normally taking off the heads from my first run at around 130 (I think). Definitely not below 100. It dropped off pretty quick. By my third quart I was down to 40 proof or so, and pretty oily feeling with that wet cardboard smell. Tails already?


So.... I must have screwed up the mash is all I can think of, and not obtained full starch conversion. I was bad and didn't do an SG reading, figuring it would be what it would be. The mash tasted really sweet and the yeast foamed and bubbled away like they had something good to eat. I just don't know what happened unless it was something in batch two that was a problem. I used the same yeast for both, prepared them the same way, and even added the Amylase enzyme.

Maybe I'll try a brown sugar rum mix again and give grain a rest. My corn mash was bad too. Produced 3 quarts but didn't smell like corn liquor at all.
Brown sugar I can about do blindfolded...

Did you taste it at all ? [edited to put question - at the end ! ]

[muscashine]

Yeah, very mild flavor at first, quickly heavy on the "Tails".

[StimpDog]

how much fore shots, heads, middle-run and tails should i expect from this run if i follow the recipe?