Super Sankey Scotch Style Still

[olddog]

Your vehicle number plates would make you easily traceable.

[DCT]

sh*t can i delete it or can a mod remove it?

[DCT]

got it changed..thanks for pointing that out....damn rooky...

[Kiwi-lembic]

Great work guys ....have my heart set on building a beutiful simple classic that works .just love those shapes ,
surely these beasts must work better than a keg pot tower set up . are the old scots' beautiful bulgy tall designs still super effecient and do they still mantain superior ultimate flavours in there spirits compared to a keg tower pot set up

[kiwistiller]

In a nutshell, bulgy = slow down vapour = more reflux = lighter tasting spirits, pretty much the same relationship as a taller column vs a shorter column. If you look at the ballsy scotch stills, you'll note that they're short, and lacking in bulges - IE Lagavulin:

The boilballs (bulges at the bottom) do also serve as a safeguard against puking the stills, I think? like in the glenmorangie stills:

[Kiwi-lembic]

Reading through this i wanted to add ,i met this old fella that lived on a high country station here ,hes an old wizz with welding metals the old way ,,instead of the expensive silflos etc for welding copper he used good old telephone wire (solid copper type) he reckons it makes a beautiful weld ..may help someone here dunno ...havnt tried yet guess i will be very soon ..

[chris69ca]

thought this best place to ask is their any reason for the bulge and then upscale and if removed what changes to the flavor would it possibly make trying to figure out what is best for me

[LWTCS]

if removed what changes to the flavor would it possibly make trying to figure out what is best for me

The bulge down low can assist in preventing puking. This can mean that the stiller can perhaps run the still a bit faster for more production (maybe not ).

The bulge will also slow down vapor speed. And with the greater surface area can induce a bit more passive reflux.

Reflux can mean more purity, or less congeners and that can translate to less flavor,,,,,or perhaps less bad flavor. Or perhaps a smoother likker.

Kinda all depends on how the stiller runs the outfit.

These outfits prolly have many many collective years dedicated by staff members past and present, to a very specific game plan on how they want their stills precisely driven.

[BigWilly]

I can't seem to find any copper wire big enough to make a sankey connector from - i need something about 4-5mm right? Anyone here from the UK know where i get some?

[claytonhaske]

Do you need to go to a bigger diameter pipe after the ball??? Or is it just personal preference???? I was gonna do 2" pipe below and above a 5" copper float ball. Does that sound good, or would you recommend i go to 3" above the copper sphere also???? Thanks, Clayton.

[CountyOfKingsJustin]

I'm curious, what was the time it took to do a stripping run and the spirit run?

Yes it is a standard reducer. I had to use a ring of the same heavy gauge wire that I made the flange out of between the reducer and my arm. My arm did not end at a perfect 1.5" so the wire gave me some adjustment. The actual length of the arm is roughly 12" from the top peak to the reducer.
As far as adding a valve and putting cold water in the precondenser, I wouldn't do it. I operate it in the current fasion for several reasons. I'm not looking for major condensation on the loop, just starting the vapor to cool and begin to collapse. It also makes for very effecient use of your water. The water is very warm coming out of the condenser but very hot coming out of the loop. Much hotter than I would want my condenser to get. It is a good system as is.

[MrBee]

On the portugese Iberian copper pot web site, they show making their "onion" shaped pieces by starting with a cylinder and reducing the ends. Then they start with a frustum and hammer that into a bell that looks like a trombone and then attaching the two by rivets and braze. I believe I will try this method first.

Hello pintoshine,
Could you give me that web site for portugese Iberian copper pot web site. I tried searching, came up with lots of stuff about working copper but not that site.

MrBee

[rad14701]

On the portugese Iberian copper pot web site, they show making their "onion" shaped pieces by starting with a cylinder and reducing the ends. Then they start with a frustum and hammer that into a bell that looks like a trombone and then attaching the two by rivets and braze. I believe I will try this method first.

Hello pintoshine,
Could you give me that web site for portugese Iberian copper pot web site. I tried searching, came up with lots of stuff about working copper but not that site.

MrBee

pintoshine has not posted in these forums since 2009 so don't expect an answer from him...

[der wo]

Perhaps it's this:
http://www.copper-alembic.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[MrBee]

Oh well then,
Thanks Rad, I never noticed the date and if he was still around.

Thanks Der Woo,
I'll have a look. just wanted to see someone forming various shapes by hand .

[Old Man Bakke]

Could you use a Brass socket by Flange adapter for the sankey to column fitting? Sweating the brass to the copper?

[Saltbush Bill]

Why not just use stainless?

[The Baker]

Why not just use stainless?

Stainless is safe.

Copper ferrules are available.

Brass may not be safe; in the old days it contained lead and I would not use even the modern brass.

Geoff

[MichiganCornhusker]

Who’s asking?? This thread was 2 years old.

[kiwi Bruce]

Raising Zombie Threads...Wash off the grime, quick acid wash and a PDQ sacrificial run...Good to go