Looking for a quality hole saw from China.

[Tōtōchtin]

I have 4 kegs needing 4 holes cut out each. I shipped a Milwaukee Dozer down here,which isn't going to cut it. Tungsten carbides from a good company are around 80 bucks plus shipping for a 47mm. I get shipping fairly cheap from china but last tool I bought a unibit could go through plastic. So if you found a good tool manufacturer please let me know.
Thanks for your time,
Tōtō

[Salt Must Flow]

I've used hole saws and I no longer use them at all. I just use an angle grinder (with cutting disk) to crudely cut the hole. I then use a Die Grinder to finish grinding the hole to shape and deburr. I use cheap drill bits and step drill bits for relatively smaller holes.

If you don't own a grinder or an air compressor, I can see where a good hole saw would be preferable.

[zach]

I used a knockout punch for 34 mm holes in kegs for 1.5 inch ferrules. Just drill a pilot hole with a step bit.

https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Home-Br ... out-Punch-

Not sure how 47 mm punch works with your kegs but one manufacturer shows is it works for 12 gauge stainless

https://www.greenlee.com/us/en/product- ... 20plastics.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/374902602578?c ... 7Cm4SxsNRU

[NormandieStill]

I've used the following hole saw to good effect. No issues so far (about 3 holes in SS). You do want a slow speed, high torque drill to make best use of these, and a mate slowly pouring water over the cutting site is not a bad idea either.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000791508303.html

Best way to use them is in a drill press with everything clamped down hard, but I don't think I've seen a hobbyist drill press big enough to fit a keg under!

[buchrob]

Knockout punch 47 mm will probably want to flatten a curved surface first before biting.

From others and experience: stainless steel hardens as it heats up a bit, so real slow with lots of coolant should be your guide.

[elbono]

I get my holesaws on Amazon but they're from China and look like the ones Normandie gets on AliExpress.

The key is slow speed and enough pressure to get chips like in the AliExpress video, not fine dust. I use tapmajik cutting oil instead of water but cooling is very important. When it gets through in one spot you need to change the pressure point, if it chatters the carbide teeth will break off.

What works best for me is to drill the center hole, use the holesaw to keep the ferrule in place, tack weld the ferrule in a few places, remove the holesaw, weld all the way around, finally cut the hole. Comes out dead center every time this way.

My DeWalt battery powered drill gets the job done fine.

[NormandieStill]

I don't remember where I saw the suggestion, it may have been here, to use water for cooling SS, but the reasoning was quite simple. Water boils at a lower temperature than that at which you will start to experience hardening. This means that you have a simple visual guide for when you really need to calm things down.

Nice technique there elbono. I may have to try a variant of that on the next ferrule I solder.

[tommysb]

Have you looked into Q-Max cutters?

Still not 'cheap', but definitely worth the money. They will do a super clean hole, no fuss.

Something like this:
https://store.brewpi.com/q-max-sheet-me ... punch-47mm

Otherwise, I second what the others have said. I've drilled clean holes in stainless kegs using an Ali-Express style Tunsten bit. But use plenty of lube and go slow.

If you go to fast with cutting Stainless steel, the heat builds up and somehow fucks the drill bit. Then it cuts less, heats up more...and the cycle continues.

[Tōtōchtin]

The link from NormandieStill had only 1 bad review so I believe I will order a few from there. I thank you all for your time and help.
Tōtō

[elbono]

Amazon lists the brands as:
FUIEJIOEI
ITOOLFIRM
Meccion
I think those names only exist on Amazon. The one from FUIEJIOEI came in a package with a Schneiter label on it the others were unlabeled.

They're all stamped TCT but I think that just means tungsten carbide tooth.

They've all held up well except the one I let chatter in the hole

[Demy]

I have the hole saws from the Normandstill link, they are good....remember: low speed, continuous cooling are the secret.

[Dancing4dan]

I have tried the hole saws with the tungsten teeth. Expensive broken teeth.

Have since bought Milwaukee hole saws and use them repeatedly for drilling SS as well as heavy mild steel plate. They just keep going

[Saltbush Bill]

As above, if I were looking to buy a " quality" hole saw, I'd choose a manufacturer from another country.

[Setsumi]

In south africa. We have expensive line of tools and cheaper. Tork craft is a reasonable line. I have used there tungsten carbide holesaw in 45mm and biuld 2 flutes with 5 plates/holes in SS. Gues I could do another 2.

[Tōtōchtin]

Checking back in to let you know the hole saw Normandie suggested held up for 8 2" holes ran with someone with knowledge but little patience. I also bought the hole punch mentioned above. The punch, also 2" worked well on the top and bottom. The sides are uneven so not so much. If you buy the punch buy a few grade 5 bolts as a minimum as I snapped 2 while using. I could buy 5 cheap hole saws compared to the punch. Thanks for your help.
Tōtō