All Bran Recipe

[rad14701]

So I stripped and fracced the stuff. The final product is more neutral to nose than turbo alcohol that stood ½years with carbon and was treated with soda and re-distilled. I still think it could be more neutral though and I began to wonder if it is just like that or is there something to improve in my work methods. I noticed sort of burned yeast/rubberish/sort of pungent odor in the product and I thought could it be from the gas burner being on too powerful?

I also ran on another strange phenomenon. I plugged a brass valve in the still and stripped the second batch (about 25 liters) to gain about 3 liters of 70% stuff, but when I added sodium hydroxide into the strippings, they turned yellow. I wonder if the lye reacted with some dissolved metals or something else? The washes were bit acidic due to addition of citric acid during inverting so they could have picked up something during stripping run.

Unless you added way too much citric acid there shouldn't have been an issue with pH as the acid neutralizes during the process of inverting the sugar... I invert with white vinegar but have used lemon juice, and cream of tartar, amongst other sources of acid... I can't help as far as sodium hydroxide, however...

As for the rubber smell, are there any synthetics in the vapor path...??? I've never had a burnt smell but have had a yeasty smell when I've over-pitched to the extreme... Diluting and redistilling resolved the problem...

[Spriit Tisler]

I didnt't actually measure the citric acid amount but I think it was a couple spoonfuls at max. Tap water here is very alkaline, even up to 9pH so even if some were left, it would only neutralize the water a bit and somebody said yeasts like to work in slightly acidic environment. Only synthetics are teflon gasket at the joint between boiler and column and another at thermometer probe. The odor is not quite rubbery but sort of musky, pungent. The volumeter gave constant results of 95+% so the reflux was probably working ok but I wonder if some tails were actually emitted and causes this odor. I divided the batch in 10 glasses of total volume of about 2.5 liters. Foreshots were easily detected with strong fruity and sharp odor, and the glass right after it also went into junk bottle. I collected 1.7 liters from the middle based on odor and taste and threw the last 2 glasses into junk bottle too.

Total volume of washes were about 80 liters, which about 10 liters was sludge and went to sewer and the rest was stripped in 2 runs, resulting in 5 liters + 2 liters of stuff with 60-70% abv. The second batch(2l) turned yellow as I said so I put it aside and probably ditch it just in case and the first batch was distilled. It appears by quick math that yeast did its work but there were losses at two steps so from 7kg of sugar only 1.7 liters of potable spirits were produced.

EDIT: I thought my distillation through and realized that I may have not let the column stabilize enough. Temperature flew around, reaching peak of 82C immediately and I let it decrease to around 79C when I started to collect, and then it rolled around between 78.5-80C until it stabilized to 78.4-78.6. Should I just let it reflux until it goes all the way down? Stopping is easy: my column always seems to jump up to 82 and begins to roll between 80-82 pretty quickly and I take that as a sign all good there is has came over.

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 7&start=45" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[Mikey-moo]

Some lead compounds are yellow. Did you pickle the brass first? Or is it lead free brass?

[Spriit Tisler]

Funny thing is that the stripping came out crystal clear but it quickly took its deep yellow color when sodium hydroxide was added. Only thing the wash could have contained is citric acid, which could be sufficient to extract some stuff from the still.

Certain lead compounds could turn blue, but sodium chromate could also, but how it could have been formed?

Whatever, it'll go to drain and I already changed the valve to a stainless one. I should probably wash the still with citric acid to passivate it further, or something. I don't want any toxins in my alcohol. I feel disgusted that it even came in contact with anything that contains lead, even if it's in parts per trillion etc.

[der wo]

Funny thing is that the stripping came out crystal clear but it quickly took its deep yellow color when sodium hydroxide was added.

I had this too. I often make neutral alcohol from feints. First I clean them with soluble carbon, let it settle and siphon it off. Then I add sodium to rise the pH before running it again. Some bottles turn a bit yellow. I always thought it is something from the carbon, what didn't settle completely. But perhaps not. Perhaps it's copper oxide. Nevermind as long as you run it again imo.

[Spriit Tisler]

You think it could still be recovered? There's only 2 liters of 60-70% of it though, that's maybe a max of liter of potables. People report similar yellowing with all bran, rye etc. so I wonder if it might actually be some sort of vitamin or nutrient that comes over in distillation conditions and reacts in basic environment turning it yellow. The brass valve was completely unharmed, only cleaned a little bit and if it was corroded my any degree it would have been visible as matte surface (as happens with lye + aluminum) so I begin to doubt it is anything harmful at all.

I did a test sample with lye with my fractionated potable spirits with lye and it did not turn yellow so this is an isolated issue(valve is pretty much only thing that changed) or at least fractioning dropped off the compound whatever caused it.

[der wo]

You think it could still be recovered? There's only 2 liters of 60-70% of it though, that's maybe a max of liter of potables.

If it is copper, it's ok to rerun.
If it is lead (leadoxides are redbrownyellow too), you have to decide. I don't know enough for an advice. I don't have any lead at my still, so I can trust.
Better replace the valve with ss. Pickling brass is not a 100% safe solution. Did you disassemble the valve and clean out the grease before using it? Perhaps it's oil falling out due to the low pH.

[Spriit Tisler]

I washed all the parts prior the welding job with machine washing detergent (= lye + hypochlorite) so the parts were effectively degreased. The valve is brass, commercial type, 1/2". It is now replaced with SS one and the brass valve will be permanently removed from my ethanol equipment.

http://dunanvalves.en.ecplaza.net/1.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

If it contains lead, then it has lead but to eye it did not have any corrosion marks so if it was lead that leached, it is measured in micrograms or even smaller and they should be reduced to PPT(traces) at max if refluxed since all lead salts are very high boiling/stable. Theory and practice, it's just one liter potables at max, worth the risk and hassle.. Well, I personally ditch it and bake a new batch - hell I already purchased new bag of sugar and packet of all-bran.

[frodo]

C2H505, I have made this recipe a lot. It is my favorite vodka recipe. I have used different cereals but same method. I too use the 20 gallon brute trash cans. I just dump in a 25# sack of sugar, box of cereal (my favorite it Frosted Mini Wheats) a little gypsum for my water and a hand full of crushed oyster shells for good measure. It aerates well when I use the nozzle on the hose to fill it up to just above the ridge on the trash can. This gives me just under 10% potential. After a few times I found no reason to cook the cereal or invert the sugar. Just a foolproof recipe.

Hell YEAH !!!!!!

[C2H5O5]

Could not find a fair price on Total, and my Dollar General did not have any Clover Brand All Bran, then I remembered the cereal we got at Sams Club. So with Rads chart I decided on Kellog's Special K Red Berries, man I love this cereal. .20 cents an ounce wasn't too bad. 18.5 OZS. per bag a 2, figured 1.5 bags per 18 gallon wash.
I'll probably hit the pantry for some older stuff too.
Let me know what you guys think.

[Spriit Tisler]

I put another one bubbling. 40 liters, should get at least 3 liters of potables out of it.

[rad14701]

C2H5O5, the amount of vitamins and minerals looks good... How the resulting spirits tastes remains to be seen... I think another member has used that same cereal in past years... Should do well for neutral spirits at the very least...

[Spriit Tisler]

Funny, airlock does not bubble even though I plugged the bucket with silicon caulk. Notable bubbling and hissing does sound from the bucket when ear is placed to it though.

[thecroweater]

You have an air leak which is not a big deal

[Hound Dog]

I've never even used an air lock. I just use a trashcan with its loose fitting lid to keep crap from falling in it. The layer of CO2 keeps bugs out.

[C2H5O5]

C2H5O5, the amount of vitamins and minerals looks good... How the resulting spirits tastes remains to be seen... I think another member has used that same cereal in past years... Should do well for neutral spirits at the very least...

Thank you, will give feedback.

[C2H5O5]

I've never even used an air lock. I just use a trashcan with its loose fitting lid to keep crap from falling in it. The layer of CO2 keeps bugs out.

I used to use just a lid until the maggots. I now use the lid place a beach towel over top and wrap tightly with some tape so nothing can get under the lid.

[thecroweater]

One thing about seals and air locks is they allow you to keep your finished ferment for a good long while before running if need be. After fermenting is finished an unsealed ferment is very susceptible to infection, I almost always use air locks but each to their own

[rad14701]

Funny, airlock does not bubble even though I plugged the bucket with silicon caulk. Notable bubbling and hissing does sound from the bucket when ear is placed to it though.

If you are using plastic buckets with snap on lids, a single wrap of duct/duck tape to seal the lid to the bucket can work wonders... Some lids have an O-Ring in the sealing groove, but not all...

[Greenthorn]

I use the 5 gallon plastic buckets too, I had posted before, mine leak.
I have since used kite string shoved in the lid grove and they no longer leak!
I just love how damn easy and quick this recipe goes now, I LOVE HOW IT TASTES TOO!
Three pints kept just as straight drinking stuff after diluted to 50%, course it's the hearts and
everybody that sips it just says it some damn good wheaty tasting stuff!

[Spriit Tisler]

Do you guys who use this for vodka reflux this recipe directly or do a strip run first?

[rad14701]

Do you guys who use this for vodka reflux this recipe directly or do a strip run first?

Regardless of the wash, many who strive for neutral spirits, including myself, do multiple stripping runs and then reflux the combined low wines... It's fast in the long run and allows for faster take off rates during the spirit run...

Example: If you have enough wash for two runs it takes less time to do two stripping runs and a reflux spirit run than to do two reflux runs... The more wash you have, the more time you'll save making cleaner neutral spirits... Running a flute might be the only option for a one run and done coming close to being as fast and efficient as using stripping runs...

[Spriit Tisler]

Right, I'll stick to stripping & refluxing as I originally planned. Thanks.

[whistlewetter]

C2H505, I have made this recipe a lot. It is my favorite vodka recipe. I have used different cereals but same method. I too use the 20 gallon brute trash cans. I just dump in a 25# sack of sugar, box of cereal (my favorite it Frosted Mini Wheats) a little gypsum for my water and a hand full of crushed oyster shells for good measure. It aerates well when I use the nozzle on the hose to fill it up to just above the ridge on the trash can. This gives me just under 10% potential. After a few times I found no reason to cook the cereal or invert the sugar. Just a foolproof recipe.

Hell YEAH !!!!!!

2015-12-21_0452.gif

I started thirty gallons by pour all the ingredients in, pouring boiling water on top, stirred it up good and let it sit over night. Went on vacation came back about 9 days later and it has finished. I did another 30 gallons at the same time where I poured the ingredients together, filled with water from the hose, stirred it up let it sit over night. It is going on day 11 and it is still not finished. At the very minimum, if you aren't going to boil the sugar and cereal as describer in the recipe, I would at least mix everything with hot water.

[FreeMountainHermit]

I would at least mix everything with hot water.

https://www.katom.com/370-MPS48.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Don't go to the shed without one ! I've used various pieces of scrap lumber as well as lengths of PVC to reach the bottom of various ferments and the paddle is simply the way to fly for this important task.

[Hound Dog]

C2H505, I have made this recipe a lot. It is my favorite vodka recipe. I have used different cereals but same method. I too use the 20 gallon brute trash cans. I just dump in a 25# sack of sugar, box of cereal (my favorite it Frosted Mini Wheats) a little gypsum for my water and a hand full of crushed oyster shells for good measure. It aerates well when I use the nozzle on the hose to fill it up to just above the ridge on the trash can. This gives me just under 10% potential. After a few times I found no reason to cook the cereal or invert the sugar. Just a foolproof recipe.

Hell YEAH !!!!!!

2015-12-21_0452.gif

I started thirty gallons by pour all the ingredients in, pouring boiling water on top, stirred it up good and let it sit over night. Went on vacation came back about 9 days later and it has finished. I did another 30 gallons at the same time where I poured the ingredients together, filled with water from the hose, stirred it up let it sit over night. It is going on day 11 and it is still not finished. At the very minimum, if you aren't going to boil the sugar and cereal as describer in the recipe, I would at least mix everything with hot water.

Use plain hose water and never have one take more than a week. Sorry about your luck.

[whistlewetter]

I would at least mix everything with hot water.

https://www.katom.com/370-MPS48.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Don't go to the shed without one ! I've used various pieces of scrap lumber as well as lengths of PVC to reach the bottom of various ferments and the paddle is simply the way to fly for this important task.

We think alike! I use a wooden boat oar to do the mixing.

[C2H5O5]

Ditto on the paddle, I use an adjustable Safety Paddle.

[C2H5O5]

I am going to start Rads All Bran after I get back from vacation, my original plan was to start it before vacation then come back after vacation and go from there but I'm planning on starting the ferment when I get home to take notes as this is my first All Bran Run and would like to take some accurate notes.
I read through this thread thoroughly one time and took notes, skimmed a second time and skimming a third time and I'm pretty sure the answer to my question was in this thread but can not find the answer to my following question.

Can I start a ferment over top of the lees from the prior ferment?

Someone stated start fresh but I think that was for storing lees, not sure if it also implies towards a back to back ferment.

Hopefully my verbage is correct.

Thanks

[whistlewetter]

Someone will correct me if I am wrong but I am pretty sure I remember that you could start another batch using the yeast from the previous batch. If memory serves me, they also stated that after doing that a few times that you will begin to get the sour mash effect. Please, someone, correct me if I am wrong it has happened once maybe twice in my 40 years.