New pot still with pics.

[still_in]

nightforce,

my impression is that you are running your rig way too fast. my setup, very similar except i have a worm condenser in a bucket, starts off at between 55%abv on the low end and 75%abv on the high end during a stripping run. i usually run it down to about 15 or 20%abv before stopping, for a cumulative abv of around 40-45%.

that process takes me between 5-7 hours to run on my natural gas stove. hardly any difference whether its 20L or 40.

also fyi with that set up spirit run starts around 83% abv

[Nightforce]

Here is the connection to the boiler. It's pretty much sealed when installed cold, the o-ring is under compression and it's locked in place.

If I'm running the still to fast I think I'll just add some cooling to the top to get some reflux, especially since I can run it at higher speeds. Adding some reflux and adjusting coolant flow through the column so the %abv is into the 60's while keeping good flow in the condenser should put me at a better strip speed and higher %abv. I know the pot still can't, nor do I want it to, put out 80%+.

So what can be expected for a decent output in ml/hr for an average non cooled and/or cooled pot still? Is 3.8L collected in about 1h47min, timed from the first drop out of the condenser to when it was turned off, to fast?

Thanks again everyone.

[xx7777xx]

I'm glad you posted the pics. From what I can see, I wouldn't trust that to be an airtight connection. With all the work you've already invested I'd highly recommend investing the extra time to make a better join with the keg. There are a couple well documented ways either adding a ferrule and making a proper join with a sankey clamp, or using a stainless steel bowl.

I am by no means a pot still expert but your yields seem low to me.

-x7

[LWTCS]

What is that made of?

Run your input so that your discharge is the size of a pencil lead.

On spirit runs, perhaps ever so slower (perhaps).

Adjust your heat accordingly.

[still_in]

not to beat the nail over the head but thus far in my experience and research i havent seen 3.8L in less than 2 hours with a pot still which leads me to reiterate it might be pushing too hard. anyone else?

[kiwistiller]

I strip at just under 5l an hour. Does this make me weird?

[kubota]

Ya got to have a leak.
Try this, put it all together ready for a run and then suck on the end of the condenser till you pull a vacuum on the system and then hold your tongue over the pipe to see if it will pull your tongue into the still.
If it won't suck you in, then try boiling the pot with just water and stick your thumb over the outlet with a glove on to build up some pressure and see if ya can spot the leak.

[stuartashers]

in relation to using a radiator for cooling i gutted a car heater plan to use as a blower for oil burner, cant see why it cant be used for cooling condenser water has good air flow. My run i hooked up to a 500 gal tank gravity fed but pumped it back with a 12 v camp shower pump slightly mod worked well but needed to increase burner heat i run a double boiler oil fired so far it works just need more oil to do another run.

[Nightforce]

What is that made of?

Run your input so that your discharge is the size of a pencil lead.

On spirit runs, perhaps ever so slower (perhaps).

Adjust your heat accordingly.

That's made of acetal copolymer (delrin) and doesn't come in contact with the wash when boiling. The only source of contaminate would be the purple o-ring that came with the sankey valve. It compresses pretty good around the column and against the SS of the neck of the boiler. It's hard to explain but you have to push down hard and twist to lock it in place; the stubs slide into the key way on the valve and twisting it forces the sleeve down and locks into place just like the original valve does. I seriously doubt there are any leaks there but I'll check it out anyway.

Output was more like a thick pencil lead, maybe 1mm stream, I'll slow it down on the next run and see how that does. I have patience to a point, LOL, but if I can add some cooling for reflux and get 4L/hr of 40-50% as opposed to running slow without cooling to get 2L/hr of 30%...I'll opt for faster.

[rad14701]

Remember, just because your car's speedometer goes to 140 MPH doesn't mean you should drive it that fast all the time... Same goes for your stillin rig... Run it at a speed that produces product within realistic expectations within an acceptable time period... For us Northerners it would be akin to driving in the snow... We know we can get there faster, but at what expense - sliding into a ditch and having to wait for a pull-out...???

[pgnet]

I dont know what my exact outputs. I can tell you what I am sure of. Alchohol boils at a lower temp than water. So if you make your boiler too hot youre gonna get water out of it. I go slow and the first liter that comes out with burn blue an hot. I suspect thats high proof. Im using a 9 liter pressue cooker and a 1/4 inch ice maker copper worm 20 ft long in to a 5 gal bucket of water and sometimes some ice. 750ml of strong stuff per about 7l wash.
wash is pretty much the gerber recipe with variations on sugar type and or cereal type.
Hang in there youll get it fingered out......

[Dnderhead]

that is the hole in the bottom of the column? it looks like it turns in.

[LWTCS]

that is the hole in the bottom of the column? it looks like it turns in.

Almost like it was cut with a really really dull tubing cutter

[Nightforce]

It's an optical illusion from the angle of the photo and the discoloration. The bottom of the column is actually concentric and square cut and fits into the boiler. The o-ring seats against the lip of the sankey valve in the keg and is compressed against the delrin sleeve.

[Nightforce]

Some final results are in.

Just got done a 4th gen UJSSM run on the pot still. Not sure of the exact %abv of the wash, they've all been in the 1.080± starting s.g. and finished somewhere around 0.995± s.g using 40% backset. My assumptions were incorrect using the weighing/math determination of %abv <sheepishly> Yes, you guys were correct, get a proof hydrometer and do it right.

Anyway. First 100ml out was 70% and running down to 20% before stopping. Overall I collected just over 4L of 42%abv in 1h11m to add to my first runs for a total now of about 5 gallons of 45% (temp adjusted reading). Looks like all my other runs were in the mid to upper 40's as well (stopped those runs at 96C but ran this one to 20% and the temp was 97.1C). I'm saving up for a 6 gallon run and looks like I'll get really good product with cask strength on just double distilling. I happened to sample this last run about mid hearts, around a 100 proof, and it was smooth and drinkable right out of the still so I'm going to make some good cuts and oak it on medium toasted oak. If I can get 15 bottles worth of some smooth corn whiskey that should last me until at least the end of the year.

Next on the list, a parrot, pugi's rum and another run of UJSSM to put away for the following year.

[LWTCS]

Anyway. First 100ml out was 70% and running down to 20% before stopping. Overall I collected just over 4L of 42%abv in 1h11m to add to my first runs for a total now of about 5 gallons of 45% (temp adjusted reading). Looks like all my other runs were in the mid to upper 40's as well (stopped those runs at 96C but ran this one to 20% and the temp was 97.1C). I'm saving up for a 6 gallon run and looks like I'll get really good product with cask strength on just double distilling. I happened to sample this last run about mid hearts, around a 100 proof, and it was smooth and drinkable right out of the still so I'm going to make some good cuts and oak it on medium toasted oak. If I can get 15 bottles worth of some smooth corn whiskey that should last me until at least the end of the year.

See,,,now you sound like a pot stiller in the making (cept for that part about temp or sumpinother)

[blanikdog]

Well done, nightforce.

blanik

[Nightforce]

The more I run it the more I'll learn. Made a parrot (another post) so I'll prolly ditch the thermocouple for the pot still.

...and now it's got a new tri-clamp ferrule....

2" tri-clamp w/ 2" tube end × 1½" socket end reducer

[xx7777xx]

The more I run it the more I'll learn. Made a parrot (another post) so I'll prolly ditch the thermocouple for the pot still.

...and now it's got a new tri-clamp ferrule....

I think you are going to be real happy with the tri-clamp setup. Just out of curiousity, how smoothly did the stainless to copper braise go? That was a bit of a challenge when I did my first joint.

x7

[Nightforce]

Just out of curiousity, how smoothly did the stainless to copper braise go? That was a bit of a challenge when I did my first joint.

Pretty horrible actually. I posted a question in the soldering thread that I don't think was answered so I winged it. I'm using a 95/4.5/0.5 tin, copper, silver solder but I don't think the silver was high enough to properly wet the stainless. I sanded the stainless, fluxed it with HCl, and tried several heating methods but nothing would wet the stainless; solder just beaded up and ran in the floor. I think I needed a silver content in the 4-5% range. I ended up heavily tinning the copper pipe, sanding the SS ferrule to put some decent groves in it and heating up the copper to just above melting point and fitting them together using the solder as more of a gap filler. It worked as I have no leaks even testing with a glass plate to look for condensation. I can even pick up the 1/4 keg full by the column without mechanical failure, so I think it's alright.

[xx7777xx]

Just out of curiousity, how smoothly did the stainless to copper braise go? That was a bit of a challenge when I did my first joint.

Pretty horrible actually.

I think that many people have a challenging time with this process. Since all keg design stills really require this step I'm wondering if one of the experts might be able to create a beginners "how to" on this and make it a sticky post.

x7