SPP Machine Begins

[woodshed]

WoW is all I can think to say. Big Swede & DAD300 you guys continue to educate and take the craft to new levels.

[1bigpig]

How about this for an automatic spp cutter...

An Arduino programmed to count the number of revolutions of wire to then actuate a pneumatic solenoid to cut the wire. A pair of slightly modified (sharpened and reduced face contact) lineman pliers works very well--or just buy a better set of lineman pliers!

Image of controller

Arduino with an opto-interrupter attached to the spindle. Every revolution is counted and at 8 (or greater) a quarter second pulse is sent to the pneumatic actuator (it's rated cycle rate is 4 times a second) to close a set of dykes or lineman pliers.

Pneumatic Actuator and cutter

Simple shelf support brackets are used to attach the pneumatic cylinder to the cutters. The beer can/bottle is used to protect myself from the cutters and to guide the cut SPP into a bowl. The cutter action is dependent on the spindle speed. So you can turn it by hand or cut up to 1 a second (my compressor could not keep up with any faster cutting). After I was confident in its ability, I left it running while I went to work. When I came home, I had about 10 lbs of SPP. The wire is .030 308L.

Everything was recycled or preexisting in my scrap/junk box except the solenoid. It came from Amazon and was $12. The pneumatic cylinder was free from work as it was replaced because of some shaft scoring--worked fine for me. The Arduino was from my electronic box as was the opto interrupter and a few miscellaneous electronic parts. I have well under $20 in this automatic cutter. Even if I had to buy all new, I think it would still be under $50.

I want to personally thank DAD300 for showing me how he made his mandrel AND for telling me to NOT cut it by hand. That is some seriously sound advice!

Bigpig

[BigSwede]

It looks like you have a very nice system BigPig... I'd love to see some close ups of the formed SPP. I'd also be interested in whow you actuate the cutters. A simple electric solenoid valve?

There are undoubtedly a number of ways to do this. Counting turns is a fool-proof way to get the desired length, but I do like KISS, and having the SPP itself trigger the cut is hard to argue with. I was all ready to set up some sort of repetitive timer device, but I want to see of this will work. If it does, it'll be something anyone can do, so long as they have a drill press. And that's despite the cutter I am working on, which is fancy and labor intensive, but will hopefully be super-durable.

Pneumatics is going to give you a long stroke with power, but it's harder to actuate than electric devices. A solenoid is much shorter stroke, but even relatively cheap solenoids can deliver 10 lb or more over 1", so I'm hoping it's adaptable to commercial cutters or pliers. I decided to make a cutter that will produce many tens of kilos of SPP (hopefully) before needing much attention.

I started with annealed A2 steel for the cutter parts, and a bar of brass for the cutter body. Into the body, I cut a T-slot that will exactly fit the A2 steel rectangle.

Two pieces of the steel were cut to exactly 1/2 their thickness, so they'd overlap. One forms the static base, and is secured inside the brass carrier.

In the end, all I did was drill and deburr a 0.312" hole in it. The chisel will cut across this 1/2 thick area.

Continued...

[BigSwede]

I made a couple of each, chisel piece and static piece. Looks like this:

The static portion goes to the bottom of the brass carrier. SPP gets fed into the middle, through the hole:

To finish this, the brass part is mounted onto an aluminum base along with the solenoid. The solenoid is a pull device; it pulls the chisel over the static steel portion, hopefully cleanly slicing it. I have the A2 steel in the furnace right now, going to give it a proper heat treatment to Rockwell 60, very hard. Hopefully it won't chip. A2 is excellent for this sort of task.

A bridle will lead from the chisel piece to the solenoid, and it has to be "open" so that it does not interfere with the SPP going down into the cutter. On the back side of the brass will sit the sensor. I've got a pair of solenoids inbound as well as a cheap SSR to actuate the cutter. Got to mount it all firmly and feed the SPP strand to the cutter without fouling.

Again, I'm hopeful these solenoids can be used with some sort of regular cutter. They are very strong, just have a short stroke. We'll see.

[Bob Loblaw]

let me know when you start taking orders. I'm only kind of joking

[1bigpig]

BigSwede,

That looks like a pretty serious setup. I had no long term ambitions with my cutter nor am I interested in selling/making SPP, so I cobbled something together that worked for me.

I don't think I work hardened my wire nearly as much as your SPP, as mine was guided by a roller bearing from a long dead harddrive instead of through a die. I think that since your wire more work hardened, you will find it will wear your cutter's edge faster. A2 is some serious stuff and 60Rc is good and hard, but I saw on Odin's blog that he had to order out some special heat treated cutters because the ones he had were not "cutting it" in his SPP machine! I think his SPP wire is of a similar size as yours, so it will be definitely something to keep track of.

One thing to think about...catching the SPP as you cut them! When I was using dykes, they flew all over the workbench, floor, across the garage, ect. I used an Aluminum beer bottle with a hole cut near the end but even then, they would hit the bottom of the can and shoot back out the mouth. And yes, I am sure I will be finding little coils of stainless steel in the garage for years to come. That is why most of the videos you see of automatically cutting SPP are capturing the SPP in some type of plastic bag or box. Just a thought.

I will try to get you some close up pictures of my SPP tomorrow. It is not as open as yours but looks closer to what DAD300 posted in his messages with Mash Rookie under the topic "Lets talk column packing" thread. My SPP is offset 22.5' per loop and since the wire I am using is .030, it makes it "less open" than with thinner wire that most people seem to be using. My SPP size was based on 1:12 diameter of a 3" column giving me right at .25" diameter and length (8 loops * .030). The inside diameter is right around 3/16".

As for the actuator, it is a 12v pneumatic valve. Here is the one I got on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/4V110-06-Outlet-P ... B0059174P4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Don't know what much to say about them other than it was cheap and super easy to use. If you buy this particular model, I would totally recommend you take it apart and Vasoline all the o-rings to help lube them and keep the valve from sticking.

I don't know what else to add other than please take some videos of your machine in action. I would love to see the cutting action of the wire and how consistent you can keep it by hand feeding the coils in the cutter.

If anyone has questions or would like to see specific pictures of my automatic cutter, I have only partially disassembled my SPP machine, so I can easily put it back together in about 5 minutes and take pictures.

Bigpig

[BigSwede]

Your pneumatic system is a nice, inexpensive way to get force to a cutter - I like it. Makes me think I should have possibly gone in that direction. We'll see how the solenoid system goes. One good thing about the solenoid is the speed... once triggered, that A2 chisel is going to SLAM across the hole, and I'm hoping the speed and inertia will assist in making clean cuts that don't abuse the blade.

The overlap of the two steel pieces was designed so that the sharp edge never makes contact with the static anvil. It stops short by about ten thousandths. It is the 90 degree edges on the two steel pieces that halt travel.

I'm also going to engineer it so that the end of the solenoid stack travel is the true "stop" in the motion - maybe pad the space between the solenoid laminates where they come together with some vellumoid or other thin, tough fibrous material. this will reduce noise and also pad the action just a little bit. It looks like this:



I gave the cutters a Rockwell C of 60 with two temperings. This is as good as I can make it. Going to test them today manually. If it doesn't work, I am going to look at brazing carbide inserts onto a steel chisel. I know that will work!

[rad14701]

Hey, I think I have about a half dozen of those solenoids in the basement, somewhere... And a hobby lathe... And a drill press... And SS and Ni-Chrome wire... Hmmm...!!!

[BigSwede]

Hey, I think I have about a half dozen of those solenoids in the basement, somewhere... And a hobby lathe... And a drill press... And SS and Ni-Chrome wire... Hmmm...!!!

Rad, hard to tell with you sometimes if there's hidden sarcasm... Like 90% of the DIY stuff out there, of all sorts, usually by the time the smoke clears, it would have been easier, faster, cheaper, to just buy it.

But it sure is fun doing the DIY thing.

[BigSwede]

Tested the guillotine... worked perfectly, clean cuts, strong ejection, and no visible wear, knicks, or dimpling on the chisel.

It only took the lightest tap with a ball peen hammer, so the solenoids I got are overkill, for sure. But I'd like to test them with regular wire cutters or bolt cutters attached to a board, something simple.

[rad14701]

Hey, I think I have about a half dozen of those solenoids in the basement, somewhere... And a hobby lathe... And a drill press... And SS and Ni-Chrome wire... Hmmm...!!!

Rad, hard to tell with you sometimes if there's hidden sarcasm... Like 90% of the DIY stuff out there, of all sorts, usually by the time the smoke clears, it would have been easier, faster, cheaper, to just buy it.

But it sure is fun doing the DIY thing.

This would be a winter project, at the soonest... I need to get a decent work area set up and maybe move the wood stove... Then, hopefully, I can move my stuff from the kitchen to the basement... I also have 240V down there...

[DAD300]

1bp & BS...cutting edge stuff there...really!

BS, you amaze me with your machine skills. Seriously, I work at GM in the tool design. Your machining is pro all the way.

1bp...great first post...hang around! Your machine is great...

My latest has been experiment has been to scale the SPP to the column in ever increasing sizes. I believe I have the sizing for 2", 3" & 4" columns in hand and working. The 4" column takes more power than I can presently produce.

This pic represents the SPP for 3" & 4" columns...

I'm having a new conversation with someone now who is also seeing the benefit of scaling SPP. Hopefully more soon...

[biggeroots]

Hi. I am very glad to see this subject developing so well. I would buy the packing material if possible. Did you all look up the video on you toob of an auto SPP setup? (might have been russian, polish etc)

[Odin]

[quote="BigSwede"]clean c*nts, strong ejection, and no visible wear, knicks, or dimpling on the chisel./quote]



Great to see you guys stepping this up! Awesome! And please do provide to other homedistillers, if you can. There certainly is demand!

Here's a picture of my bigger SPP for my 5 inch columns ...



Regards, Odin.

[BigSwede]

I'm glad people are enjoying this. I think a lot of guys would like to try this stuff but are put off by the cost. MIG wire is available for $16 or so for a kilo. SPP is really nothing more than a special spring. I am surprised the commercial SPP costs so much, when you can even find it this small.

Dad300, I'm seeing about 5.5mm for your 3", and maybe 7mm for your 4", is that about correct? If so, I need to scale down a bit for 2". My bit #4 makes 5.2mm or so.

Q. For you advanced distillers... Ultimately, I'd like to have a section of this stuff above 2 bubble plates. My understanding is that SPP is best run fast, partially flooded? True? If so, would it be appropriate above a plate or two?

One last comment, I always make my posts too long - to execute the Patented Dad300 auto cut, there may be issues with cutter and guillotine thickness. At least with my cutter, the sensor is going to be very close to the cutter body to keep the SPP at an appropriate length. Something to keep in mind, but I still love the idea, and I think it will work if the SPP feed is kept reasonable.

[Odin]

Hi there,

Why run SPP over bubble plates? Or why not? SPP works best in semi-flooded conditions. Lots of reflux reduce HETP to around 0.5 centimeters. Less reflux and HETP goes up. If you use plates to strip lots of water out of the gasses you are sending up your column, you will loose one of the places in the column where SPP works best (at the bottom). Just imagine that SPP will give around two distillations just in the first 1 to 1.5 centimeters of the packed column section. If the abv is low enough. If you want to make optimal use of SPP, you run it without any other help.

I wrote a post about it some time ago. If you search on SPP you will probably find it. I think it describes how SPP functions pretty well.

There's another reason not to put plates under an SPP packed column section. Ethanol blockage. SPP is so effective, it takes a wash or low wines boiler charge to Azeo very quickly. If you feed your column with too high ABV, for instance via plates, the SPP may cause ethanol blockage: Azeo is reached so close to the entrance of the column, that no temp gradient can develop in the higher parts of the column. Ethanol hold-up, column flooding. That causes one to power down, thus creating less reflux and decreasing efficiency.

For my rig and in my experience, with low HETP SPP and pretty high power inputs (2 to 2.8 kw on a 2 inch diameter column), boiler charge (from the boiler or via plates) should not be higher than 35%.

Okay, some more info you guys may take into consideration. Three things actually:
- What degree are the bends?
- The role with wire, how is it attached to the ground plate?
- How do you cut: through the wire or through the spring section?

By the end of this thread I want to help you guys to be able to produce 2 centimeter HETP SPP, so let's get going!



Odin.

[BigSwede]

Odin, much respect! Thanks for taking the time to explain. My goal changed weeks back in the sense that I did not want a honking long 8 foot 2" column... Wanted a compact rig that still performed. Who wants to climb a ladder? I want to keep my overall height above boiler at 3 to 4 feet or so, that includes reflux condenser and VM/LM heads.

Who doesn't like something compact that still performs? Also want throughput, as much as 2" and 5500 watts can give me, no 9 hour still sessions.

I'm in Spain on a 3 day, going to hit maybe a Tapas bar, grab some grub, then I want to re-read your response and I will try within my limited experience to answer.

And Dad300, I appreciate your kind comments. Having a blast wit this stuff.

Cheers!

Wanted to add, I shouldn't have started a new thread, but no sleep does this. In the electric section, I'm soliciting from electronics gurus possible sensor methods to trigger the auto-cut.

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 85&t=49844

I think just basic DC through the SSR will work, but there may be better ways.

[BigSwede]

Okay, some more info you guys may take into consideration. Three things actually:
- What degree are the bends?
- The role with wire, how is it attached to the ground plate?
- How do you cut: through the wire or through the spring section?

By the end of this thread I want to help you guys to be able to produce 2 centimeter HETP SPP, so let's get going!



Odin.

Dad300 has put up some examples of what I think are both the prettiest and most effective SPP. Some of them even have perfectly staggered square, pentagon, other recognizable shapes with flawless profiles.

I can't imagine that the angle is too critical, it is the combination of staggered lobes and especially, enough space BETWEEN each wind that makes it more effective. Got to have a gas and vapor exchange space not only outside and inside, but between each wire loop. It'd be some hairy math, but I'll bet that opened SPP would end up performing better than closed. and of course the unique shape helps the vapor/liquid exchange hugely.

The role with wire, how is it attached to the ground plate?

Do you mean the spool of MIG wire? And the angle plate that forms the basis of the machine? The hole in the spool is standard so that spools interchange with different welders, and I think the holes are 3/4", do need to double check.

On mine, I drilled a hole 1/4" in the angle plate. I took a piece of 3/4" steel round - this can be replaced with all-thread, copper tube over smaller all thread, just about anything that the spool can rotate on, smoothly - tapped each end for 1/4" x 20 imperial threads. 6mm is close. The round hub piece is shorter than the width of the spool. With the spool mounted, another screw and a spring attach to the hub from the user side, and adjusts tension. The plastic spool of wire rubbing against the angle provides plenty of needed friction.

The cut: the chisel piece I made is 30 degrees. If the SPP strand has even the tiniest spacing between winds, the chisel finds it, separates that loop slightly, makes the cut, and when the piece falls off, it returns to the proper shape.

[Odin]

Okay, thanks for sharing! For open SPP, to get the lowest HETP, the angle is increadibly important. One degree off is like a few percents up in HETP. Doesn't sound like a big difference, but it is. Okay, it may not sound like that important, if you come from scrubbers with an HETP of - say - 9 centimeters and progress towards 3 centimeters. But just imagine the gain from 9 to 3 and then again from 3 to 2. That's like another 50% gain in efficiency. Relatively open SPP does that for you. In combination with "the right angle". We performed numerous tests on it and the magic number really is 86 degrees. Not 90. So not square. Not 80 either. If you can achieve 86 degrees bends, you are reaching Walhalla. Sorry, OdinSpeak.

You guys are doing an amazing job. Truelly amazing. I am sharing this info not because I want to tell you where to go to. But I do want to share our learning points, just so you can decide if it is a direction that's worthwhile to further investigate. And if not, that's great too. Follow your intuition might be the best advice.

Some more to share. We found out that putting the "scroll" (hope that's the right word) with the wire feeding the actual SPP making action is best attached in a suspended way. Like with a car. The body does not touch the ground. The tires do. And in between the tires and the actual body are springs & dampers.

Now, onwards to a third point. Cutting will deform SPP. It will deform relatively closed SPP, by narrowing the "entrance" or "exit" to the spring. For relatively open SPP, the first and/or last wind may break, thus factually shortening the length of the spring below optimal length. And there's another problem. If the sicors cut through the wind, parts/particles will be formed. Small pieces of cut metal. They do not really clog up the spring, but they take away some of its effectivity. It makes the difference from an HETP of 2.5 to around 2 centimeters. Not a big jump, when compared to scrubbers, but it is another 20% potential gain in performance.

How to approach this cutting problem? Research the problem Spitfire pilots faced during the early stages of WWII. When they opened fires, the bullets, coming from mittrailleurs in the wings, would cause damage to the propelor blade. The solution? They made the propelor engine drive the mitrailleurs ...

Now go get them! I stopped delivering SPP to the world of homedistillers, but I do want you to get (close) to the level where we ended up. HETP of 2 centimeters. With you guys doing the thinking I see happening right here, not to say: the toolmaking ... Very impressive.

Odin.

[DAD300]

Here's the first SPP I made for a 2"...it was very closed. The HETP was sub 3cm, but it flooded very easily. I believe it restricted the down flow of the reflux.

The point of this is, don't get too crazy about the exact shape or openness...even this very closed design (that looks just like commercial Heli Pak) was 3-4 times better than a SS scrubbie in a 2" column.

BS, I was also after the reduced height. My 2" & 3" will run azeo at 30" high. More height let's me run faster and the 4" hit azeo at 30" also. I know it will fly at say 48".

[1bigpig]

BigSwede,

As promised here is a picture of my SPP.

My SPP

Not perfect like what Odin is describing, but I am not looking for perfection. I have almost a meter of this stuff in a 3" column. It starts off as Birdwatchers, Googe's goo or UJSM at the bottom and azeo comes out the top. I cannot really ask for anything more (well, maybe a better reflux condenser--soon a DAD300 CCVM).

Lastly, I claim no expertise in this but it does seem to work better than lava rocks. Plus it doesn't smell as bad as lava rock after a run--even after a good washing with clean water.

Bigpig

[BigSwede]

Odin - I obviously have a lot to learn. I guess instinct on shapes and profiles will only take you so far. Thank you again for your time and input.

Books available on column packing can be VERY technical, but there is nothing for it but to start digging.

In my experiments, I found a strong correlation between wire tension and loop spacing. Remember the "mass per unit length" experiments, i tested both speed of wind, and also tension.

Faster winding increases loop spacing, up to a point. But stronger correlation was tension, with lower tension blowing open the loop spacing hugely. Problem, at a certain point, SPP is no longer consistent, and a certain amount of tension is needed just to make anything at all.

Also, I think as wire diameter goes up, the ability to create both good lobe stagger and some loop space diminishes. But wire too small doesn't work as well, probably causes issues with heat exchange.

Dad300, Bigpig, thanks guys, it is very interesting seeing what others are doing. I agree, it'd be great to be perfect, but there will be a point of diminishing returns, at some point you just have to run it.

Lots to think about and study.

[Odin]

Here are some numbers I'd like to share. Now, please know my SPP is more open than most others I see around:

Size: 4.4 x 5.5 mm
Bends: at 86 degrees
Tread: SS, 0.24 mm diameter
Weight: around 800 grams per kilo
Surface area: 1,000 dm2 per dm3
Column occupation: 12%
Column void: 88%

Regards, Odin.

[Hound Dog]

Here are some numbers I'd like to share. Now, please know my SPP is more open than most others I see around:

Size: 4.4 x 5.5 mm
Bends: at 86 degrees
Tread: SS, 0.24 mm diameter
Weight: around 800 grams per kilo
Surface area: 1,000 dm2 per dm3
Column occupation: 12%
Column void: 88%

Regards, Odin.

I just have to ask how your SPP is 800 grams per kilo. I know I am just a backwards American but I would have put my money on it being 1000 grams per kilo.......

[Odin]

.. per liter?

Odin.

[BigSwede]

I got back from Spain, but have to go again this afternoon. Kind of hard to work in the shop when you're not there!

This morning, I examined all the various SPP I've made, and really, the only successful ones use the flat screw driver blade profile. These all vary a bit, but they all have common attributes. I tried to draw by hand, but it was impossible, so I had to use CAD. Looking at SPP with a magnifier hurts the brain, trying to truly understand what you are seeing.

The type of bit I used produces SPP composed of two alternating fixed lengths, of course these are generated by the bit width and thickness. I have a really nice old comparator loupe, so I could measure certain things. My #6 bit, which makes nice SPP, produces alternating lengths of 6.5mm and 2.5mm. The lobes are staggered by 30 degrees. Other bits produce lobe stagger of 30 to 45 degrees, but the approximate shape of all flat screwdriver style SPP is the same as this drawing.

Assume the wind starts at A. Goes up angled slightly left for 6.5mm, turns left at the 105 degree angle label for 2.5mm, goes back down. The drawing isn't clear, it DOES NOT go to the B point, it makes another pass back to the top, and the SECOND looping is what I have terminating at B. So we have two "loops." The angle between them is 30.

Again, with some minor differences, this is what you're going to get with a flat bit shape. I tried a half dozen other variations, including square, which is what would be needed to make what I think Odin is describing.

If you Google search Images "Spiral Prismatic Packing", there's a huge variety of them, most I'd consider hardly better than springs.

These look to be what Odin describes as the superior form, and damn, they are nice, 50 degrees or so lobe to lobe, and maybe 80 degrees at the bends:


Good thread over there with technical detail. http://www.artisan-distiller.net/phpBB3 ... 1b805d66d9

I think this form can be made by creating a rectangular form with a correct taper; more experiments to do. Once the form is verified as producing the desired shape, I can crank them out with ease in hardened A2, they'd last a long time. And if there's demand, I can do more than a few. I want there to be nothing secret about this, and I'd like to see people making their own.

I believe what we have will work, and work well, but there's nothing but fun to be had by pushing the boundaries as much was we can.

Odin, meant to add/ask - what shape was the mandrel you used to produce your SPP?

[DAD300]

There is nothing right or wrong here about any of these designs. But there are compromises of "Throughput" verses HETP.

These are outcasts from early mandrel and wire tests...
All of these shapes will work, but deliver dif ratios of HETP to throughput of liquid/vapor.

If you get the Minimum or best HETP...you will incur high holdup of liquid problems (excessive flooding). Your Throughput will be shitz.

Book by Krell

So, the more oval design has the highest "Throughput" and still sub 3cm HETP.

Most of the Russian designed SPP suffers from flooding (when put in a 2" column), because they were making very small SPP for 1"-1.5" columns on min power. I've seen this play out. They weren't interested in Throughput!

Also, I believe if you get too aggressively open a design, the wires will "nest" into the piece next to it and negate the idea of the open design being able to hold more liquid.

There are other issues here also...the MASS of the SPP will effect the height, throughput and HETP, due to it changing the Thermal Gradient in the column. More mass (wire and weight) will effectively hold a more equal temp from top to bottom, while lighter SPP will have a greater dif in temp from top to bottom.

I've had setups were the temp was less than a degree F over 30" of column. I actually improved the performance of that column by NOT insulating the top half.

So, remember SS Scrubbies have an HETP of ~ 13cm ...thus any SPP with 3cm HETP need only be one fourth the height to achieve the same or better ABV!
Or every 30" of SS Scrubbies will get you five Plates, 30"'s of bad SPP will get you 20+ Plates!

[Odin]

And as a side note to the great post by Dad ... Imagine you have a 3 or 4 feet tall 2 or 3 inch column already. No need to cut it down to half that size if you want to start using SPP. You can just keep on using that taller column. Advantage? More total alcohol in the column gives an even more stable & faster run.

Odin.

[BigSwede]

This has been both fun and HUGELY educational, with inputs from such accomplished and knowledgable distillers... Thanks gents. Like I said to Odin, I have a lot of study to do.

I have decided not to pursue any more mandrels or bits. Going to put what I have to work and learn the ins and outs of this material as it now is. There is always the future for the search for perfection. So it is time to finish the machine and learn how it behaves first hand.

My solenoids arrived, they will do the job. But the SSR I ordered is coming from Hong Kong. When I saw that, I ordered one domestic... Cheap at $6 for a basic unit. I hope to have it running in a few days. I will take a few pictures and report back.

[BigSwede]

Work continues... tested the solenoids, crazy overkill in terms of force. If anyone tries something similar, depending upon your cutter mechanism, a much smaller solenoid will work fine. This is the one I ordered:

http://www.zoro.com/i/G2504686/?category=4831

11 lb max pull. Overkill. Half this would be adequate. But excess pull is OK so long as the chisel or cutter has a "stop" in it other than the blade edge.

SSR: This little guy - more than enough.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058V ... UTF8&psc=1

Opto 22 brand SSR's claim to be able to handle inductive loads with ease, which is exactly what we need due to the solenoid coil.

Got to mount the solenoid, the cutter, SSR, sensor, and an adjustable tube guide to get the SPP into the cutter, onto an aluminum plate. If this thing comes together, I think I am going to transfer all the mechanisms onto an 8020 t-slotted aluminum extrusion to make it a bit neater.