Keg build

[rew88]

G'day guys i recently managed to find a nice 20l Heineken keg for $25 on ebay. I am currently using a euro 5 still that i got from the brew shop which works ok but takes so long to distill 25l of wash at 4.7l per run. So i was looking to build. I have been doing a fair bit of reading and don't plan on touching a thing till i know exactly how im going to do it. I was just wanting to see if anyone could point me in the right direction for the best and preferably simple design (i have no experience with this type of thing) that suits this keg. Im looking to make a reflux still that can be detuned and used as a pot still so i can make some real whiskey one day when i get more experience, i am currently using Rads all bran recipe.

Thanks

Here is some inages of the keg.

[olddog]

Nice clean keg you have got there. I think the simplest way you could go, is to build a 2" Bokabob, which could be de-tuned for potstill mode. Built with an "Easy Flange" and tri-clamp would make it easy for dismantling and storage.


OD

[rew88]

Hey olddog thanks for the quick reply i will go have look at that design in more detail now, do you have any good links about this design i only know of the one on the parent site. Cheers

[olddog]

Have a look at the index page, "Column distillation design" you will find it there.

OD

[rew88]

Found it ill have good read through everything about it now, no doubt ill be back with loads more questions soon.
Thanks

[rew88]

Hey again just wondering how i open the keg? it still has a tiny bit of beer in the bottom and i dont know if its under presure, never used a keg before.

Thanks

[olddog]

Lay the keg on its side and depress the ball in the centre, this can be done with a large spanner side on.

here is a link that should help http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 7#p6722147


OD

[blanikdog]

And make sure you lay it on it's side or you'll get a surprise.

blanik

[rew88]

Thanks a bunch i'll go to batlle with it now.

[rew88]

Managed to get it open it was different to the keg in that thread but i managed to find a video on youtube. It was threaded and had a little button down further so i had to use some screw drivers and vice grips now its all apart and waiting for some copper to be attached haha.

[LWTCS]

WTG Rew88

[xx7777xx]

Another great option is to go with a convertable VM design. Here is a pic of mine:

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp18 ... nt-Web.gif

The VM is real simple to operate and makes great azetrope.


-x7

[rew88]

Very nice looking still xxx7 it looks a bit to complex for me though haha, i think i will go with the 2" bok seems like the best way to go for a first build. WIll start looking into buying materials soon anybody know good place in Qld to get copper at a good price?

[rew88]

G'day again, i have managed to get myself a nice meter long piece of copper. Because my keg was threaded i would like to be able to use that as it would be very simple to take apart an construct the only thing is that the fitting from the keg is a little bit smaller in diameter than the 2" pipe i was wondering if this will cause any issues with the vapour ? will put some pics in to show you what i mean.

And also if the fitting will cause no problems is soldering the best way to attach the copper to the stainless?
Sorry for all the n00b questions.

[mrhooch]

Well if you want my 2 cents worth, here it is:

1. When you build a still, you are building it with parts that can pretty much last a lifetime. Then you ask yourself the question, "Am a a tinkerer and experimenter?". Will you build it once, or build it then tinker with it later?

2. While stills don't work under that much pressure, the liquid reflux is pretty "wet". It will leak out of joints a lot easier than water because of the alcohol in it. Take a lifes lesson from roofing shingles and downpipes and have removable joints that fit INSIDE the other joint to keep the liquid in.

Hooch.

[rew88]

Thanks mrhooch, i thought that might be the case. I have some friends who are fitters so i was thinking i could get them to match the thread onto the copper pipe so it just screws straight in the top of the keg that would be nice and simple. Are there any issues with that idea that may have slipped my mind?

Cheers

[mrhooch]

Yup.

Copper pipe is a bit of a bitch to thread. You have to check the material thickness based on the thread size used on the keg. Pipe threads are standard, and are tapered. Your keg *might* be a metric pipe thread rather than an imperial thread. The reason it could be a bit of a bitch, is that the amount of material you need to remove to make a proper thread might be thicker than the pipe you are working with. In that case you'll end up making nice copper curlies, as the die cuts all the way through the copper pipe.

Good pipe dies have an over/under adjustment to compensate for wear amongst other things. Start threading with the die set as large as possible, once threaded, you can size the die down a bit and thread it again, don't forget to use a lot of pipe thread cutting lubricant. A technique I used when I needed to thread copper pipe for something else was to take a short length about 2x the length of the threads, cut a slot in it so that it will fit inside the other pipe, flux and solder the sleeve (ok, it is really a bushing), so that you have some thickness there.

Here is some info you'll need to work with threads.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/npt-n ... d_750.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Hooch.

[xx7777xx]

When you say the diameter is "a little smaller" that the pipe, how much is a little? To get a good solid solder/braise you want to have a nice fit between the two pieces for a strong joint. I can't really see how much space there is from the pics, can you provide that info?

-x7

[olddog]

Unless you have pipefitting dies to thread the pipe, the easier and better option is to put a flange onto the tubing and attach to the keg with a tri-clamp. Plus most 2" tubing is only 1mm wall thickness which would be near impossible to thread successfully without weakening the tubing, IMO not a practical option.

OD

[rew88]

Thanks for all that info mrhooch much appreciated, it sounds like a bit of a pain to to thread but i will see if my mates have the right tools. The thread is 1mm and my copper is 2mm so i might just work.

@xx7, The diameter of the difference is 3mm, this would make it pretty difficult i imagine.

@olddog, I don't have the dies but i know some people who most likely do. the copper i got is 2mm thick would this be workable do you think? or would it still weaken the copper too much.

Thanks guys

[olddog]

the copper i got is 2mm thick would this be workable do you think? or would it still weaken the copper too much.

This would depend how deep the thread cut is, I don't think even 2mm would be thick enough.

OD

[rew88]

Thread cut is about 1mm.

[rad14701]

I don't see threading as a viable option for copper pipe, not even DWV... If it was then you would have been seeing threaded copper pipe all along... Do it the right way with fittings as copper is intended to be used...

Any talk of threading copper should be disregarded...

[ozone39]

The spigot end always faces direction of flow, bell end faces opposite direction of flow (in a gasket ed scenario)....As far as threading copper just get a MIP (male iron pipe) x sweat adapter....

[rew88]

Cheers for all the info guys, i wont bother looking into threading it anymore. I'll look into getting some good fittings or doing the esay flange and tri clamp method. Will keep you updated on my progress.

Thanks

[rew88]

G;day everyone im slowly getting everything together for my build, i decided that i would go and get some more copper today so i can use the full length of the first pipe for packing. So i asked for another half meter but they gave me 80cms for no extra charge haha, and i also got some brass unions (Not very cheap either) as that was all they had. I am aware that i need to delead the brass before any product goes through.

here is a pic.

So will i be best to solder them onto the pipe (If that is possible) or would i be better off to just use some flour paste to ensure no vapor escapes? If there is any other issues i haven't mentioned no doubt there is please let me know cheers.

[olddog]

That looks like a compression fitting, it should have an olive in either side, which compresses onto the tubing, once compressed the olives are virtually unremoveable, I use this type of fitting to attach my condenser to my still.


OD

[rew88]

Hey olddog it probably is a compression fitting, are olives the little rings that slot onto the pipe? i will post a pic off all the parts.

[olddog]

Yes that's a compression fitting. once you have put it together onto two pieces of tubing, and tightened it up, you will find those rings will be compressed onto the tubing permanantly.


OD

[rew88]

Ah yeah awesome thanks for clearing that up. Once the brass has been deleaded is there any other issues with brass fittings i should know about?

Cheers