T vs plates for Boka

[Chroi]

While very simple, it seems the Boka can be made even easier to construct by omitting the plates and using a copper T as the overflow

Is one design better than the other?

The T obviously disrupts the vapor pathway....any major issues with this design? Is one inferior? The only thing I was thinking was the amount of distillate held could muddy your cuts, but that must happen to some degree on the Boka plates as well.


(PS props to Shifty for thinking of that design in the first place. ingenious IMHO)


Hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas.

[kaziel]

IMO Boka plates held less liquid then T. I wen for plates and never regret it, + plates are chipper. If you already have all necessary fittings for T do it if not and you don't want to spend more go for plates.

[Prairiepiss]

(PS props to Shifty for thinking of that design in the first place. ingenious IMHO)
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I think you should be thanking Alex (BOKAKOB). Don't know who shifty is?

I'm assuming the by replacing the plates with a T. You are referring to the boka two cups or two reducer design? And you are actually using a large reducer or two and a T. Need something to hold the T. These extra parts cost more. Then cutting out a couple plates.

The only advantage the two cups or two reducer design. Is the ability to set the amount the collection cup will hold.

They both are LM (liquid management) designs. That use one valve. Either will work. Just depends on your build style and abilities.

[Hound Dog]

I thought the same thing and built my two inch with the two cup design. If you do this on a 2" use a 1" reducer not a 3/4" as depicted on the design as it will flood easy.

That being said, I just made the head for a 3" using slant plates and it was not only cheaper (especially with 3" fitting prices) but it was easier.

[Chroi]

(PS props to Shifty for thinking of that design in the first place. ingenious IMHO)
.

I think you should be thanking Alex (BOKAKOB). Don't know who shifty is?

I'm assuming the by replacing the plates with a T. You are referring to the boka two cups or two reducer design? And you are actually using a large reducer or two and a T. Need something to hold the T. These extra parts cost more. Then cutting out a couple plates.

The only advantage the two cups or two reducer design. Is the ability to set the amount the collection cup will hold.

They both are LM (liquid management) designs. That use one valve. Either will work. Just depends on your build style and abilities.

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 3#p6795683

Shifty's T design. No offense intended at all to Alex (BOKAKOB) Thanks for the replies.

[F6Hawk]

Alex's design was created back in 2001, Shifty's in 2009.

I personally would never mimic shifty's design because of the amount of fluid "stuck" in the cup, which would cause much smearing I'm afraid. Plus a bit of waste at the end of each run.

[DAD300]

There was another, simpler design for a LM still.

It was a simple pipe soldered into the side of the column at a 30 degree angle. And then you inserted a "spoon" of flattened pipe in to that one from the top.

I'm looking for a pic or drawing...it was called a Spoon and now we'd call it LM.

Why I brought this up, is I agree with F6Hawk...with an LM your after drops per second, so why have a cup or plate that holds more than the desire take off needs?

So, to play LM on a VM, I once added this to the takeoff of a VM that had a valve...

And this is by far the easiest to build and modify. I never soldered the spoon to the takeoff pipe and I did it in SS I cut from a cheap spatula with a simple "V" trough.

[bokakob]

Alex's design was created back in 2001, Shifty's in 2009.

I personally would never mimic shifty's design because of the amount of fluid "stuck" in the cup, which would cause much smearing I'm afraid. Plus a bit of waste at the end of each run.

That is right. The lower the placement of "T" the better it is.

[Chroi]

Alex's design was created back in 2001, Shifty's in 2009.

I personally would never mimic shifty's design because of the amount of fluid "stuck" in the cup, which would cause much smearing I'm afraid. Plus a bit of waste at the end of each run.

That is right. The lower the placement of "T" the better it is.

Why does it have to be a T in the first place? Since the falling liquid reflux and rising vapor are gonna share the same hole anyway,what does the T accomplish?

why not simply solder a smaller diameter pipe inside the cap (Just like shiftys design) but make it very very low so the plate holds only a few ML's, or for that matter even with the bottom of the cup so it holds little to no distillate. by putting the pipe/T on the BOTTOM of the plate, thereby creating a reflux centering tube as well as holding zero distillate?

A small dent in the cup wherever you want your takeoff to be should be sufficient to get the product out, while holding the minimum amount of liquid. We are after drops per second as someone else point out...

Have I missed something here?

I'm truly not trying to reinvent the wheel here, and I know everyone is saying "whats wrong with slant plates"? Nothing, it's obviously an extremely well proven design. After looking at the templates and various plate designs, this just seems easier. I have the materials already.

Probably just another hair brained idea from a n00b

PS how much liquid does the Boka takeoff plate hold in a 2" column design?

[Prairiepiss]

As long as whatever you use directs all the condensed liquid from the reflux condenser. To the plate or cup. So that it intermingles with what's in the collection cup. And have the proper amount of vapor path. It will work. You just don't want the condensed reflux to fall right back into the column. Bypassing the collection cup.

[Chroi]

As long as whatever you use directs all the condensed liquid from the reflux condenser. To the plate or cup. So that it intermingles with what's in the collection cup. And have the proper amount of vapor path. It will work. You just don't want the condensed reflux to fall right back into the column. Bypassing the collection cup.

hence the T gotcha.

where would you put a thermoport in a design like this?

and what is the proper amount of vapor path? I have both 1" and 3/4" T's handy.

[Hound Dog]

Thermometer goes under the cup but you have to make sure the probe does not extend into the falling condensate.

I built a very similar design using the design with two reducers but the same setup with the T to shield the hole from the condensate coming off your coil. The drawing is on the parent sight too in the same place. Anyway, I would just suggest using the 1" T. I used a 3/4" and found that it would flood easily. Not 100% sure that was the reason but it seemed that way.

Should work good for you. Hope you get some good spirit!

Just my .02

[Hound Dog]

(PS props to Shifty for thinking of that design in the first place. ingenious IMHO)
.

I think you should be thanking Alex (BOKAKOB). Don't know who shifty is?

I'm assuming the by replacing the plates with a T. You are referring to the boka two cups or two reducer design? And you are actually using a large reducer or two and a T. Need something to hold the T. These extra parts cost more. Then cutting out a couple plates.

The only advantage the two cups or two reducer design. Is the ability to set the amount the collection cup will hold.

They both are LM (liquid management) designs. That use one valve. Either will work. Just depends on your build style and abilities.

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 3#p6795683

Shifty's T design. No offense intended at all to Alex (BOKAKOB) Thanks for the replies.

Chroi, how did your build come out?

By the way, when you credit this design to "Shifty" look at the picture in the link you provided. The drawing on the graph paper laying on the table that depicts the "T" style collection on the left and the "double reducer" style on the right is a drawing by Alex (BOKABOB). There are links to it on the parent site and somewhere here also. Piss is correct on this one.

[Chroi]

Very sorry about not giving credit where its due. For everyone who's posted plans/builds, thanks a bunch, and especially to Alex (Bokakob)

Heres my 1st attempt at a reflux still. Its a modular easy flanged 2" cap with a modified 1" T and a simple 1/4" takeoff. The cup holds less than a 1/2oz of liquid.

I'm sure I'll make an improved one, prob out of tube so it can have easy flanges at both ends. Also will try to make the reflux return a bit straighter

Havent had a chance to run it yet. will report back.

[Chroi]

pics showing attachment with easy flanges. just clears the takeoff tube!

[Odin]

I personally like a pagoda design for collecting and distributing reflux. At least on an LM design. Slanted plates are easy to make, but I feel they do have one disadvantage: splashing! The plates do not do the best job in containing the liquids. Fresh reflux, right from the column cooler, splashes in the liquid bath, forcing quite a lot of liquids out of the plate. Not a gentle process, that - I feel - smears lower bp alcs down into the column easily and has a negative impact on overall performance (take-off rate and product purity).

Odin.

[hilbilly]

Odin, I haven't seen or heard of the pagoda design before and would like to see one. Do you have a reference to a pic or drawing somewhere. What you say about splashing makes perfect sense and is important especially during fores take off.

[Hound Dog]

Chroi, that's pretty slick. I like how you positioned the takeoff right at the opening to the clamp. Good job on that.

[Chroi]

Thanks! This is gonna be a LM plus condenser controlled VM. Should have it finished tomorrow!

[shifty]

Alex's design was created back in 2001, Shifty's in 2009.

I personally would never mimic shifty's design because of the amount of fluid "stuck" in the cup, which would cause much smearing I'm afraid. Plus a bit of waste at the end of each run.

Hi there
Wow time has got away. Haven't been here for a while and i noticed this post. Firstly let me just say i never claimed to inventing the design of the T still. Cant remember where i got the design but it certainly wasn't mine! All i did was take photos of the build thinking it may help others out. I like working from lots of photos...
Also, just wanted to say there is never any fluid left in the cup as the pick up is right at the bottom of it so it drains completely. This still has been performing beautifully for years now. I love it...
Cheers all...

[champagneave]

Has anyone added a dephlegmator, secondary cooling coil or cold finger below the slant plates? I am starting a new build and was wondering if it may be an improve heads and tails compression. Any thoughts? Reasons why not? I posted the question here http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... =1&t=58943

[Kegg_jam]

Boka's already good at heads compression.

Tails compression would be benefit from it in my opinion.

I've fooled with it on 1.5" it worked pretty good. Maybe a little fiddly to dial in.