Eleanor Pictures
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Eleanor Pictures
Pictures!
After many months of hard work, I am pleased to say that I have a fully functional pot still named Eleanor. Eleanor’s boiler is 38 quarts and made from a thick walled stainless steel stock pot. The lid was made from a 10 gauge laser cut of 304ss. The boiler has two 304ss 1” NPT fittings welded in for two electric elements. The lid has one 304ss 3”x2” hex bushing welded in for column attachment. The column is made from 2” copper and reduces down to a ¾” condenser. Most everything is detachable for easy and secure storage. The heating element control was taken from Pint’s circuit design.
I thank you all for the help and information. Now to make some whisky!
After many months of hard work, I am pleased to say that I have a fully functional pot still named Eleanor. Eleanor’s boiler is 38 quarts and made from a thick walled stainless steel stock pot. The lid was made from a 10 gauge laser cut of 304ss. The boiler has two 304ss 1” NPT fittings welded in for two electric elements. The lid has one 304ss 3”x2” hex bushing welded in for column attachment. The column is made from 2” copper and reduces down to a ¾” condenser. Most everything is detachable for easy and secure storage. The heating element control was taken from Pint’s circuit design.
I thank you all for the help and information. Now to make some whisky!
Last edited by Centimeter on Fri Jun 06, 2008 11:21 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Eleanor
I'm new at this, but that is a good looking unit. Glad to see pictures are showing up. Treeking55
Re: Eleanor
Good little unit. I like the hex bush for the column attachment, clean, simple and effective.
Be safe.
Be discreet.
And have fun.
Be discreet.
And have fun.
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Re: Eleanor
I like the hex bush a lot too. It adds a good deal more support to the column and is solid as hell. The bushing is also milled down so that it doesn't stick into the boiler. I thought about using T-clamps but I didn't like the idea of having gaskets in the vapor line. In designing the still, I definitely put the most time and money into making the boiler. I figured that a solid boiler would last me a life time while towers will change every so often. My next step will be to replace the hand clamps with more permanent fasteners. I was thinking of making a 15" diameter T-clamp for it but I can't really see a reasonable way to do that. Another option would be to weld some spring clamps on it, but that's really expensive. Any suggestions?
Re: Eleanor
15" sounds about right for a band clamp from a 15 gallon drum. Shouldn't be too hard to make one work.Centimeter wrote: I was thinking of making a 15" diameter T-clamp for it but I can't really see a reasonable way to do that. Any suggestions?
It is the very things that we think we know, that keep us from learning what we should know.
Valved Reflux, 3"x54" Bok 'mini', 2 liebig based pots and the 'Blockhead' 60K btu propane heat
Valved Reflux, 3"x54" Bok 'mini', 2 liebig based pots and the 'Blockhead' 60K btu propane heat
Re: Eleanor Pictures
Looks good mate, it's now "time to shine".
It is most absurdly said, in popular language, of any man, that he is disguised in liquor; for, on the contrary, most men are disguised by sobriety. ~Thomas de Quincy, Confessions of an English Opium-Eater, 1856
Re: Eleanor Pictures
Nice rig.
If I can recommend,
- make a cross brace where you can clamp it to the handles on both sides. I use a piece of wood that goes across. That way you don't have to be using all of those clips.
- are you using something like flour dough to seal the lid while operating the still?
enjoy.
If I can recommend,
- make a cross brace where you can clamp it to the handles on both sides. I use a piece of wood that goes across. That way you don't have to be using all of those clips.
- are you using something like flour dough to seal the lid while operating the still?
enjoy.
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Re: Eleanor Pictures
Excellent idea hooch! I'll have to fiddle around with that on paper while I'm at work this week. At first I thought that I was going to need to use flour paste to close it all up, but it seems to seal up perfectly fine without it. As an update, this thing is working marvels ever since Dnder got me straightened out on flow rate. Whenever the lighting is good and I have some time, I'll take some more detailed pictures and post them.
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Re: Eleanor Pictures
It doesn't matter that the clips look "redneck". They are actually an excellent flexible seal which is WAY better than a rigid seal.
I like yer new still.
I like yer new still.
Re: Eleanor Pictures
Much safer than a rigid seal that would go boom if the thing got blocked somehow.theholymackerel wrote:It doesn't matter that the clips look "redneck". They are actually an excellent flexible seal which is WAY better than a rigid seal.
I like yer new still.
15 gallon pot still, 2"x18" column with liebeg condensor on propane.
Modified Charles 803 w/ 50gal boiler, never ran so far.
Modified Charles 803 w/ 50gal boiler, never ran so far.
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Re: Eleanor Pictures
I'm sure this has been posted somewhere, but if you need to make a rigid seal, you can install a pressure relief value. I'll leave it to the experts to let us know what pressure it should be set for (ie what is too much). (Or I guess you could run with the flexible seal with a pressure gauge installed to tell you what to expect and go from there.)
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Re: Eleanor Pictures
My still was designed with three pressure release systems. First, the thermometer cap on the top of the column is not soldered in, thus it can pop off with ease. Second, as has been pointed out, the top of the boiler can pop off. Third, in case I do make a rigid fastener, I have installed a five pound pressure release valve on the lid. It is visible in the picture as the little brass fitting sticking out of the top. I like it as it also unscrews allowing for me to measure the temperature of the mash as it heats up.
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Re: Eleanor Pictures
I have made some changes to make Eleanor more of a pot still. I haven't yet run any ethanol through her yet, but I got excited and had to share. I made an all copper spiral liebig that's ~10ft long. This allowed me to shorten the column significantly. It will also allow me to make the coolant water air cooled eventually. Needless to say, making this condenser was one hell of a pain in the ass! Anyhow, I've run vinegar through her so far and it had some huffing difficulties due to improper spiral positioning, however that should get worked out soon. Anyhow, just wanted to check in with the progress. Enjoy the pictures. Also, please excuse the poor quality of the pictures, I had to downgrade my digital camera, but you get the idea.
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Re: Eleanor Pictures
Sweet!
How?
How?
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Re: Eleanor Pictures
I made the condenser by annealing a 10ft section of ¾” and 1” rigid copper pipe. I then put the ¾” pipe inside of the 1” pipe and filled the whole thing up with salt. I coiled it around an 8” PVC pipe… a process that I hope never to repeat. The rest is self explanatory. The use of adaptor inserts made the soldering job much easier and nicer.
I think the coil is too shallow as I seem to be having trouble with distillate pooling, causing the set up to “pant.” I think that the issue is arising from either the spiral not being perfectly level or that I don’t have a pointed outlet that allows for surface tension on the distillate to break, causing pooling at the outlet. Any thoughts? How do you guys ensure that your spiral is properly positioned?
I think the coil is too shallow as I seem to be having trouble with distillate pooling, causing the set up to “pant.” I think that the issue is arising from either the spiral not being perfectly level or that I don’t have a pointed outlet that allows for surface tension on the distillate to break, causing pooling at the outlet. Any thoughts? How do you guys ensure that your spiral is properly positioned?
Re: Eleanor Pictures
Beautiful work. Way overkill though, only needed to be around 3 feet long.
A huffing potstill is nothing new, a small bit of copper scrubber stuffed into the output end will eliminate it. (If it doesn't, then you need to delve deeper)
A huffing potstill is nothing new, a small bit of copper scrubber stuffed into the output end will eliminate it. (If it doesn't, then you need to delve deeper)
It is the very things that we think we know, that keep us from learning what we should know.
Valved Reflux, 3"x54" Bok 'mini', 2 liebig based pots and the 'Blockhead' 60K btu propane heat
Valved Reflux, 3"x54" Bok 'mini', 2 liebig based pots and the 'Blockhead' 60K btu propane heat
Re: Eleanor Pictures
Damn engenius set up there, a 10' liebeg condenser in what an approximately 8" x 10" design? Never seen that before, I love it and it looks good. Now go forth, and minimize a wash.
15 gallon pot still, 2"x18" column with liebeg condensor on propane.
Modified Charles 803 w/ 50gal boiler, never ran so far.
Modified Charles 803 w/ 50gal boiler, never ran so far.
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Re: Eleanor Pictures
I thank you guys for your compliments!
I wanted the condenser to be overkill so that I could implement efficient coolant water recirculation. With the added length, I can run the coolant water very slowly, allowing for optimal heat exchange in the condenser. This will allow the coolant water to be quite warm going in without jeopardizing condensing ability. Furthermore, the slow flow of the coolant water will allow for me cool the recirculation line with ease (hopefully!) via either a fan or evaporative cooling.
I don’t think that my condenser is exhibiting the usual sputtering of a pot still. The flow will literally stop for a while as it pools inside of the condenser and then it will suddenly flow out, sometimes as much as 100ml. I was thinking that maybe I should increase the distance between each turn of the spiral to make it slope down more?
I wanted the condenser to be overkill so that I could implement efficient coolant water recirculation. With the added length, I can run the coolant water very slowly, allowing for optimal heat exchange in the condenser. This will allow the coolant water to be quite warm going in without jeopardizing condensing ability. Furthermore, the slow flow of the coolant water will allow for me cool the recirculation line with ease (hopefully!) via either a fan or evaporative cooling.
I don’t think that my condenser is exhibiting the usual sputtering of a pot still. The flow will literally stop for a while as it pools inside of the condenser and then it will suddenly flow out, sometimes as much as 100ml. I was thinking that maybe I should increase the distance between each turn of the spiral to make it slope down more?
Re: Eleanor Pictures
The pooling could be from your straight lyne arm also. You could try a slight tilt from the bottom of the pot to put a downward slant toward your condensor...that would also help get the vapor past all those fittings that would catch and slow down vapor, or at least I would think so. It looks like you may be using it in the house which is gonna be cooler so you could be getting some condensation inside the lyne arm from ambient air temp.
15 gallon pot still, 2"x18" column with liebeg condensor on propane.
Modified Charles 803 w/ 50gal boiler, never ran so far.
Modified Charles 803 w/ 50gal boiler, never ran so far.
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Re: Eleanor Pictures
I was thinking that maybe you do need to stretch out the coil, so it's more like a liebig that looks like a normal worm... Because you can see that all points of the coil are angled down... but the smaller tube inside might not be a some point? I don't know, but putting a bit of angle on it by stretching ti out a bit might help some.
Re: Eleanor Pictures
It is entirely possible that you have an uphill slope of your inner tube due to shifting of the salt/sand during bending... Eliminating the compactness of the coils by stretching "might" resolve the problem... And, as others have pointed out, you may also be having problems due to the lyne arm... Might be a compound problem...
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Re: Eleanor Pictures
I stretched out the coil just slightly and threw in a 45* elbow at the outlet to help break surface tension. It now runs like clockwork knocking down 3000W like it's going out of fashion. My straight liebig never ran this smoothly. I must say, I’m impressed. Now to make a recirculation system with a cooling fan and get to work on some more UJSM.
Re: Eleanor Pictures
Damn that looks good, maybe you should start building these for sale
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Re: Eleanor Pictures
You would have to pay me a hell of a lot of money to make another one of these!
I went through two ¾” and one 1” 10’ sections before finally getting it right. Thank god there’s a recycling facility nearby that pays 3USD per pound of recycled copper!
Honestly though, it’s really not that bad once you know how to do it. At first I tried to make two separate coils and then screw them together. I’m not really sure what I was thinking, but I ended up wasting a good 50USD copper. If you anneal the two pipes at night, it’s easy to get it hot enough without burning them. Once you have them both well annealed, all you need is some brute strength to coil it all up. Don’t go any smaller than 8” ID as you will start to fold the 1” copper. Were I to do it again, I would try for ~9”. PVC sewage pipe fits this diameter very well. I used ratchet tie downs to hold the pipe down to the PVC and coiled away. It was quite the workout.
Anyhow, this condenser works miracles! I just did two 25L stripping runs using 15 gallons of cooling water in a recirculation system. The condenser seemed like it was laughing at me, as though it was saying, “Is this your best shot?” I literally am not able to get this thing to spit steam. I let the cooling water get so hot I couldn’t even hold my hand in it, yet it still knocked down 3000W. I can’t wait to see just how smooth a stripping run this thing can pull.
I went through two ¾” and one 1” 10’ sections before finally getting it right. Thank god there’s a recycling facility nearby that pays 3USD per pound of recycled copper!
Honestly though, it’s really not that bad once you know how to do it. At first I tried to make two separate coils and then screw them together. I’m not really sure what I was thinking, but I ended up wasting a good 50USD copper. If you anneal the two pipes at night, it’s easy to get it hot enough without burning them. Once you have them both well annealed, all you need is some brute strength to coil it all up. Don’t go any smaller than 8” ID as you will start to fold the 1” copper. Were I to do it again, I would try for ~9”. PVC sewage pipe fits this diameter very well. I used ratchet tie downs to hold the pipe down to the PVC and coiled away. It was quite the workout.
Anyhow, this condenser works miracles! I just did two 25L stripping runs using 15 gallons of cooling water in a recirculation system. The condenser seemed like it was laughing at me, as though it was saying, “Is this your best shot?” I literally am not able to get this thing to spit steam. I let the cooling water get so hot I couldn’t even hold my hand in it, yet it still knocked down 3000W. I can’t wait to see just how smooth a stripping run this thing can pull.
Re: Eleanor Pictures
Wow... i just saw this for the first time. think i've spent 15 mins looking at them. you just moved the bar up a notch with that condenser. i can just imagine others (like me) sitting there with our mouths open thinking 'how can i do that?'. Wow.
please post more pics of the stretched version.
and. was this design out there somewhere or did you think this up? every time i see some post on here from some one with a new and improved design they usually are over complicated, contrived and unnecessarily involved. can tell they put a lot of time and energy into it, but the result is not worthy. but this thing you made is just a shining example of form, function, innovation, genous... you should get some award.. ok i'll stop.
please post more pics of the stretched version.
and. was this design out there somewhere or did you think this up? every time i see some post on here from some one with a new and improved design they usually are over complicated, contrived and unnecessarily involved. can tell they put a lot of time and energy into it, but the result is not worthy. but this thing you made is just a shining example of form, function, innovation, genous... you should get some award.. ok i'll stop.
Good friends, good drink, good food, ...
Three foot bokakob slant plate LM reflux column atop a propane fired half barrel boiler
Three foot bokakob slant plate LM reflux column atop a propane fired half barrel boiler
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Re: Eleanor Pictures
I appreciate your praise.
The idea of a spiral leibig is not exactly my own. Although I haven’t seen pictures I have read about people spiraling copper inside of flexible plastic tubing to make a spiral leibig. This idea attracted me, however I did not like that the sleeve was plastic as it could easily melt if water was running too slowly or if I forgot. As far as I know though, I am the first to make an all copper one. In designing my still, I took into account functionality and safety (both legal and physical). I like that the spiral leibig can easily pass as a wart cooler.
As I said, it’s really not THAT hard to do. As long as you properly anneal the pipe and are careful not to work harden it prematurely it’s quite doable. I will say that you’ll need some good upper body strength to spiral it. You’ll definitely need to splurge on the copper Ts and fitting inserts as getting all of the fittings onto a warped curving pipe is not easy and you will want to minimize the number of fittings. If you would like to build your own and have any more questions, I’d be happy to help as best as I can.
I’ll try to post some more pictures of Eleanor soon.
The idea of a spiral leibig is not exactly my own. Although I haven’t seen pictures I have read about people spiraling copper inside of flexible plastic tubing to make a spiral leibig. This idea attracted me, however I did not like that the sleeve was plastic as it could easily melt if water was running too slowly or if I forgot. As far as I know though, I am the first to make an all copper one. In designing my still, I took into account functionality and safety (both legal and physical). I like that the spiral leibig can easily pass as a wart cooler.
As I said, it’s really not THAT hard to do. As long as you properly anneal the pipe and are careful not to work harden it prematurely it’s quite doable. I will say that you’ll need some good upper body strength to spiral it. You’ll definitely need to splurge on the copper Ts and fitting inserts as getting all of the fittings onto a warped curving pipe is not easy and you will want to minimize the number of fittings. If you would like to build your own and have any more questions, I’d be happy to help as best as I can.
I’ll try to post some more pictures of Eleanor soon.
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Re: Eleanor Pictures
http://morebeer.com/view_product/18829/ ... over_Clamp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
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Re: Eleanor Pictures
LOL...figures.
So my condenser really can pass as a wort chiller! That’s very good to know. I would still opt for the DIY method as it’s about ¼ the price, but a good option for someone who doesn’t have the time to make one.
So my condenser really can pass as a wort chiller! That’s very good to know. I would still opt for the DIY method as it’s about ¼ the price, but a good option for someone who doesn’t have the time to make one.
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Re: Eleanor Pictures
Detailed instructions for an all copper counter flow chiller, some of this could be of use http://pjmuth.org/beerstuff/counter_flow_chiller.htm