10 gal Clawhammer Supply Electric conversion!

[StillHouseJunkie]

So, I have a 10gal all copper setup from Clawhammer Supply. I am converting it to electric heat with one of their controllers. They don't really have any instructions that tell you where to mount things. How high from the bottom of the boiler should I install the heating element, and where should I install the temperature probe in relation to the heating element?

[acfixer69]

The heating element should be as close to the bottom as you can put it. As for the probe that leads me to believe you are trying to control the temperature PID style. No can do. To distill you need to control the power to the element to control the vapor speed, the temperature will be what ever it needs to be and ever changing thru the run. Try to understand this.
http://www.kelleybarts.com/PhotoXfer/Re ... gMyth.html

[StillHouseJunkie]

The conversion kit comes with a controller that controls temperature. It has a built in temperature probe to read temperature for the controller to regulate the heat. It can be controlled by temperature or power percentage(aka manual mode). The kit was made dual purpose for brewing beer or Distilling.

[8Ball]

So, I have a 10gal all copper setup from Clawhammer Supply. I am converting it to electric heat with one of their controllers. They don't really have any instructions that tell you where to mount things. How high from the bottom of the boiler should I install the heating element, and where should I install the temperature probe in relation to the heating element?

I guess you have your reasons for wanting to go electric. I like propane because you can run dirtier and you have more options if you choose to move your spot

[StillHouseJunkie]

Yeah, where I live the weather can change at the drop of a dime, and if you could find a spot secluded enough in the woods, the mosquitoes would probably carry you away.

[Deplorable]

Unless you're using your boiler for other uses besides boiling liquids you dont even need to run the thermometer.
As stated above, just put the ferrule for the element as close to the bottom as you can so you can run smaller volumes with less worry about boiling your element dry.

So, I have a 10gal all copper setup from Clawhammer Supply. I am converting it to electric heat with one of their controllers. They don't really have any instructions that tell you where to mount things. How high from the bottom of the boiler should I install the heating element, and where should I install the temperature probe in relation to the heating element?

I guess you have your reasons for wanting to go electric. I like propane because you can run dirtier and you have more options if you choose to move your spot

You only need to remove the element to go back to propane. I get better control of the temps with my internal element than I do on propane, and Im not filling tanks every three weeks all winter. I can also run with the garage door closed. That's nice when the weather is just above freezing. Propane does have it's advantages if you can control the flame low enough to keep your take off rate as slow as you want it.

[Saltbush Bill]

Ive never been able to understand why people say they have more control with electric .....some of you must have used some really wierd propane set ups to think its not very controllable.

[Deplorable]

Simple. If I try to get the flame low enough to take off at say 3 to 5 drops per second, the burner doesn't want to stay lit. Maybe it's my burner, maybe Im just a loof and cant figure it out, but thats been my experience. Like I said above, there are advantages and disadvantages to both heat sources.

[Saltbush Bill]

My point exactly.... . Dont blame the gas / propane......its the crappy burner.....buy a better one .....problem solved.
I see some guys trying to run those turkey fryer things ......how the hell ya ever going to run one of those low n slow?

[Deplorable]

Or run electric. Here, propane costs fluctuate more than electricity. And it's actually cheaper for me to run on electricity than propane. It's also more convenient.
Again, there is no right answer, so long as you're safe and making a good product.

[StillHouseJunkie]

Ive never been able to understand why people say they have more control with electric .....some of you must have used some really wierd propane set ups to think its not very controllable.

For me it's not really about more control. It's more about being able to do my thing a bit more privately, away from the prying eyes of neighbors, and in a more bug free environment. Plus the system can be used to brew some beer when I can accumulate the extra equipment. So it's going to serve multiple purposes.

[Saltbush Bill]

Understood

[Yummyrum]

It's more about being able to do my thing a bit more privately, away from the prying eyes of neighbors,

Man I so get that . Last neighbors had a drone .

New neighbour's got a pair or Marimma dogs ‘cos of fox and chickens . Now every-time I fart , the dogs are at the fence barking … I kid you not …: followed close by neighbour checking for fox .

5 acres and still no privacy

[Setsumi]

Ive never been able to understand why people say they have more control with electric .....some of you must have used some really wierd propane set ups to think its not very controllable.

For me it's not really about more control. It's more about being able to do my thing a bit more privately, away from the prying eyes of neighbors, and in a more bug free environment. Plus the system can be used to brew some beer when I can accumulate the extra equipment. So it's going to serve multiple purposes.

i recently switch my brewery and still to electric. i am very happy with the switch. to me it does lend to a smoother brew or still day and yes i think better control. my controller has SCRs for power control on the still and a PID for brewing... after a few brews i now use the SCR for brewing as well, it seems just quicker than the PID. i do use the PID 's thermocouple to read the wort temp while i recirculate wort between the kettle and mush tun (i have a brutus 20 brewery) but an analog themometer would have done the same... but then i am a lazy brewer.

[Setsumi]

to add, the only issue i have with electric is that your liquid volume below your element stay cooler untill you reach boiling point. only once you have boiling action with convection do you have even temprature through out. when brewing beer you can stir but not when you still. put your thermowell just below or level with your element and a bit to the side.