Mr P's 110v Harbor Freight controller duel element setup.

[Prairiepiss]

I have had a lot of inquiries about my heating elements and controller setup as of lately. So I figured I would post a rundown of what and why's. I posted this in my build thread. And thought it may be seen more if it had its own thread.

I am only providing this as an alternative to a 220v phaseangle setup. Or any controller builds available on HD. The phaseangle controller at 220v would be one of the best setups you could use. So if you have 220v available I would suggest that controller over my setup any day. It can be used on 110v also.
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 46&t=17383

I opted to go with the 110v setup because of one main reason. I didn't have good access to 220v to run my still. I currently live in a mobile home. Not much room. Less room to be stealthy. So I opted to go 110v. Cost was another factor. The Harbor Freight controller was $17.99. Had to at least try it. And simplicity plug and play. So I thought. But found out later not a good idea with this controller. More on that in a bit.

Ok on to my current setup. I have 2 5500w 220v elements mounted in my 15.5 gal keg. One is a straight one and the other one is of the wavy type. The 5500w 220v elements will run at approx 1375w in 110v. I mounted the lower one as low as I could in the keg. Taking into account it is the wavy one and needs a wider path to be screwed in. The upper one is just above it so to give me enough clearence that they won't touch. With this mounting configuration it takes approx 5 gallons to just cover the elements. So 6 gallons is what I figure for the minimum amount of water that needs to be in the boiler to run both elements. And keep them covered.

I chose the 5500w 220v elements for a few reasons.
Upgradability for a later date. No need to change them out to changeover to 220v.
Size to heat input ratio. The longer the element the more the heat will be spread out over the length of it. Less likely to scorche any suspended solids.
The wattage was close to what I wanted. And safe to run on a single 15amp circuit. Approx 1375w @ 110v each element.

Now the controller. Like I said I thought it mite be a plug and play thing. But what I found was the unit wasn't built for long extended continued use. Because the supplied heatsink or lack of one. So I took the advice of Rad and Mulekicker and added the larger heatsink. And after many runs I was glad I did. As hot as the heatsink gets. I can't imagine what it would be like without it. It gets quite warm ok HOT. If the factory cover plate was to be used it would over heat rather quickly. And cause it to fail either burn the chip up. Or cause the whole thing to meltdown.

I run the controller on only one element. There is no need for two controllers. If you want 0w to 1375w just run the one element and controller. If you want 1375w to 2750w switch on the second element. I use both elements for heatup and reflux mode. I switch off on element for pot still mode.

Safety precautions.
If using two separate elements like this. They must be plugged into separate circuits. That are supplied by separate circuit breakers. One circuit can't handle the amp draw of two elements. This could overheat the circuit and pop the CB. Or worse start a fire at a resistance area of that circuit. I can't stress this enough. Do not run on the same circuit.

Other precautions about the router speed controller. The on off switch switches the neutral leg of the 110v circuit. This means the output plug is connected to the hot leg at all times. So if touching the backing plate or heatsink if modded and touching the output terminal. You will get shocked. I don't like the fact they switched the neutral instead of the hot. But not much we can do about that. The hot leg is the one with the fuse protection. The best thing to do is switch the unit off. And unplug it from the wall first. Then unplug the element.

Reminders When connecting the elements make sure to have the earth ground connected to the boiler. And if at all possible GFCI circuits should be used. Correct wire gauge size should also be used for the elements. With this setup on 110v 12/2 wire would be the minimum I would go for safety. 10/2 wire if you plan to upgraded to 220v at a later date.

One last thing to keep in mind. The Harbor Freight router controller is just that. A Harbor Freight Router controller. As with many things bought at Harbor Freight they aren't the best things in the world. They sell them cheap for a reason. So if you are thinking this will last you a lifetime. Think again. I have not had a problem with mine. But I'm not expecting it to last for ever. Like any cheap electronics. One mite last for 2 or 3 years. While the next one on the shelf mite last 1 or 2 runs. But they are cheap enough you could have two. And use one as a backup. In case one fails during a run.

I'm going to try to get some better pics of the heatsink install. And post them when I can.

[Prairiepiss]

Here are some better pics of the heatsink mod I did. You will see I milled a recessed spot to mount the chip. This is not really needed. But gave me a bit more room for everything to fit better. And also note the earth ground connection. The second set of pics are of the factory cover plate next to the heatsink I installed to replace it. You can see it is nowhere near big enough to dissipate the heat.

[Prairiepiss]

Here is a neat vid I took of the elements heating some water up.
http://youtu.be/o3kEgID_J58" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[akrandy]

wow very nice, to bad you were not my neighbor this would make things alot easier on me lol

[hendecp]

Hey Mr. P! Thanks for posting this. I have a 1/2 keg that I converted the same way about 2 months ago. I have have 2 2000W 120v elements instead. It takes about an hour to heat 12 gallons to full rolling boil from a start of about 45 degrees from the well . I unplug an element and it still maintains a rolling boil, too high for distilling. This router speed control will do the trick. I have a Harbor Freight pretty close to me and will go pick one up.

Three questions:
1. When you are using the controller for controlling the element, do you have the switch in FULL or Var? I am assuming VAR?
2. Where did you get that heatsink?
3. You say that for reflux mode you run them both at full strength (the elements)? What temperature does that run at? I thought you needed to maintain about 175F?

Any help would be appreciated! I want run my first batch soon. I originally made a CM style with the pipes through the column. I ran it with boiling water once, then read the blogs here and decided to decommission that rig before I even used it for true distilling. I just finished up my Boka rig today, and I am anxious to get distilling. The Boka is a 2 inch that sits on top of my original 3' column.

Any help and advice would be appreciated and accepted.

[Prairiepiss]

Hey Mr. P! Thanks for posting this. I have a 1/2 keg that I converted the same way about 2 months ago. I have have 2 2000W 120v elements instead. It takes about an hour to heat 12 gallons to full rolling boil from a start of about 45 degrees from the well . I unplug an element and it still maintains a rolling boil, too high for distilling. This router speed control will do the trick. I have a Harbor Freight pretty close to me and will go pick one up.

Three questions:
1. When you are using the controller for controlling the element, do you have the switch in FULL or Var? I am assuming VAR?
VAR is to control the amount of heat with the controller. Full just bypasses the controller and puts full line voltage to the element.
2. Where did you get that heatsink?
This one is a computer CPU cooling heatsink. You could probably pick and older one up cheap at a computer shop.
3. You say that for reflux mode you run them both at full strength (the elements)? What temperature does that run at? I thought you needed to maintain about 175F?
I run one full on and the other just under full on using the controller.
You are not understanding the temp thing. You can't control the temps. The ABV of the still charge determines the temps. Water boils at 212 f pure alcohol at 173 f. So when you have a mixture of the two it is somewhere between the two temps. You will need a steady low boil to run your boka. Sugestion go read through the why I can't control my still with boiler temp. It's in the new distiller reading lounge.
Any help would be appreciated! I want run my first batch soon. I originally made a CM style with the pipes through the column. I ran it with boiling water once, then read the blogs here and decided to decommission that rig before I even used it for true distilling. I just finished up my Boka rig today, and I am anxious to get distilling. The Boka is a 2 inch that sits on top of my original 3' column.

Any help and advice would be appreciated and accepted.

Now the Harbor freight unit is only rated at 15 amps. This would only run max of 1500w safely. For a 2000w element you would need a 20amp model. They can be found on the internet. Or you can get a different element.

[hendecp]

Mr. P, Thanks for the advice. I will go read that now. I am still understanding this whole thing. I have my still built, have run water through it once and need to do a vinegar/water run to clean it out. Then a cheap wine run to break it in? I am excited about running my first recipe though, just anxious with the seemingly endless possibilities on how to operate the still.

Thanks

[hendecp]

OK, OK, OK..... I get it now!! I only will control the power to the element so that I can slow the boil down as to not have a high rolling boil like when you make noodles in a pot and it foams up out of control. I think I understand now. In actuality, the only way someone would be able to control the water temp or vapor/steam temps is if it were all under pressure.

I think I will keep on 2000W element and replace the other with a 1300W or 1500W element for controlling with the router piece. I'll run both for initial start up.

Hopefully I have it now! If I am off Mr. P, please straighten me out!

[Prairiepiss]

I think your getting it.

I'm assuming you have a keg as a boiler? I would look at a 220v 5500w element. When ran on 110v it is 1375 w. It matches good to the controller and since they are longer the heat is more evenly distributed across it. Home Depot has one for $17.99. Make sure it will fit first.

[rad14701]

OK, OK, OK..... I get it now!!

Hey...!!! Who turned on the light...???

Glad you're starting to understand the theory a bit better...

As mentioned, running a 240V 5500W element on 120V @ 1375W will help extend the lifespan of the element as well as helping to reduce hot spot related scorching...

[hendecp]

Mr. P, I do have a keg boiler. The only issue that I have with putting a 5500 or 4500 element is the spacing. As you probably know, the 120v elements are short. So..... I mounted them facing each other from either side. Had I seen your post I would have done it like you did, one high and one low. I will have to measure it, maybe I can keep one 2kw and use one longer 55kw.

Rad, I think I'm going blind from the hours of reading this forum! After reading the temp thing that Mr. P directed me to, I did not want to re-ignite that debate. From reading that post topic, it seems to resurface a couple times a year. I do not want to be that one.......

[JacknCope]

How did you connect the element to the keg? I see that you welded it but what adapter/flange did you use?

I feel like this is the neatest/safest/most economical way in heating up a still. I am really glad some one pointed me to this thread.

Any info would be greatly appreciated

JnC

[Prairiepiss]

I used a stainless 1" NPT coupler that I cut un half. The threads on the elements are actually 1" straight pipe thread. But most of the time if wrap PTFE tape around the element threads. You will never have a problem with a standard 1" NPT.

[JacknCope]

Oh cool. Thank you

[That Guy]

Awesome work Prairiepiss! I just used this thread to build one for my new boiler.

I used a “MLCS 9410 20-Amp Heavy Duty Router Speed Control”, and a CPU heatsink from an old Dell Precision 370 that work was recycling.

I removed the cover, drilled out the two rivets holding the TRIAC and ground wire, cut a 1 1/2" hole in the cover, bolted the heatsink to the cover, and used a heat-conducting epoxy to glue the TRIAC directly to the heatsink through the hole. I could have just used a bolt or screw to attach the TRIAC to the heatsink, but I had some epoxy from a previous project (http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-5-T ... B00021LJ9I.)

Attached are some pictures of it. Work had about 15 computers they were recycling so I grabbed a few "extra" heatsinks for future projects

Heatsink bolted on the cover

Cover with the hole drilled and heatsink bolted on

TRIAC after being epoxied onto the heatsink

Finished unit, plus a few extra heatsinks :)

This is my first picture post so let's see if it comes out right....

-TG

[Prairiepiss]

Nice heatsink. Heat pipes are cool. Let us know how it turns out.

[That Guy]

Lol, I haven't used it in my boiler yet (don't have the fittings welded on yet.) But we were having fondue this weekend in one of those cheap electric pots. I've always hated the pot since it can't keep the cheese at the right temp. It's either boiling/burning it or letting it get too cold in between cycles. I whipped out the controller, turned the fondue pot to high and used the controller to keep it at a perfect temp!

-TG

[Prairiepiss]

Now that's thinkin.
I've got one of those pots. It's either to hot or not hot enough. Not anymore.

[Midways finest]

If doing several stripping runs and then a spirit run with heater elements and your wash winds up above 50percent abv do you just cut it back with water prior to running to make it safe for the elements?

[marshrunner757]

If doing several stripping runs and then a spirit run with heater elements and your wash winds up above 50percent abv do you just cut it back with water prior to running to make it safe for the elements?

You shouldn't run anything above 40% abv. Very dangerous! I cut mine back to 35% just to be safe.

[Midways finest]

thank you much!

[rgreen2002]

Now I know this post is a little dated but its right up my alley. I recently procured a 15.5 gal keg and am in the thought process for putting it all together. I have 3 24" sections of 2" copper that I will combine using 2" ferrule/triclover clamps (48" for the column and then I need to calculate the length for condenser (3/8" double wind)).
Anyway... I distill in the basement and I have no 240 outlet. To run a 240 line from the fuse box to where I work would be some 50 feet which sounds cost prohibitive. I was recently considering putting in 2 2000W elements into the keg - one to plug in directly for getting to temp, and one for control using the Harbor Freight Router Speed Control mods from this post. I see PP you were choosing the 5500 on 110v. Aside from potential upgrading in the future to 240v and the length for heat dissipation is there any other reason for not going with the 2 2000W?

[still_stirrin]

...Aside from potential upgrading in the future to 240v and the length for heat dissipation is there any other reason for not going with the 2 2000W?

Ultra low watt density (ULWD) of the 5.5kW keeps the local hot spots at a minimum, reducing the chance for scorching. The 5.5kW on 120V will still produce nearly 1375W, which is more than enough to drive a 2" reflux column. With two elements, you can still heat to production very quickly.

I much prefer the ULWD elements over the standard or even LWD such as the 2.0kW 120V elements are. But I know the ULWD elements are more capital cost initially...but they'll last longer and scorch less than the standard elements.

"Buy once...cry once".
ss

[rgreen2002]

I much prefer the ULWD elements over the standard or even LWD such as the 2.0kW 120V elements are. But I know the ULWD elements are more capital cost initially...but they'll last longer and scorch less than the standard elements.

"Buy once...cry once".
ss

SS - "Buy once...cry once". I've mentioned before that you and I are of the same mind here.

I do get the concept of the hot spots and their benefit. My thought process was 2 fold really... the 5500w elements are at least twice the 2000W in cost and with the 2000W elements at 110V I would get up to about 4000W heating power as opposed to 1375 x 2 (2750).. much less power - important for startup if i understand the power correctly.

My other thought would be one of each. a 2000 direct plug for heat-up and the 5500 for heat-up and then controlled with the router controller.

In the end if the 5500 x 2 is the best oerall setup - "Buy once...cry once"!

[S-Cackalacky]

Just a word of advice - this thread is a few years old and there are now other options available that should be considered. There are controller kits that can be bought for fairly cheap. There are also some very basic builds available here on the forums - Cranky's or Jimbo's are good ones. There are also the inexpensive Chinese controllers available online that will allow you to do either 110V or 220V. That's not to say that the router speed controller won't work as long as you do Mr. Piss's mods. It's just that it may be more expensive than some of the other options and offers no possibility of upgrading to 220V.

+1 on using the 5500W elements. They will give you an easy upgrade path and deliver a very gentle heat.

Posted with the OP.

[rgreen2002]

Just a word of advice - this thread is a few years old and there are now other options available that should be considered. There are controller kits that can be bought for fairly cheap. There are also some very basic builds available here on the forums - Cranky's or Jimbo's are good ones. There are also the inexpensive Chinese controllers available online that will allow you to do either 110V or 220V. That's not to say that the router speed controller won't work as long as you do Mr. Piss's mods. It's just that it may be more expensive than some of the other options and offers no possibility of upgrading to 220V.

+1 on using the 5500W elements. They will give you an easy upgrade path and deliver a very gentle heat.

Posted with the OP.

Thanks SC - I just left the "electric" section a little while ago... it's how I got to this thread. Ive sen Jimbo's a few times before and I probably have seen cranky's but I will go back to take a look. I wouldn't mind going 240 but where the fuse box is in my basement and where I do my work is about 50 feet apart. Pricing out 8/3 or 10/3 wire... its crazy expensive. My brother-in-law is an electrician so maybe I will talk with him... and that could also be an argument for the "possible up-sizing" side of this talk.

From the cost containment side of this the only things that drives price up would be the high wire pricing and the costliness of the 5500W's. I can get two 2000W for the price of 1 5500W... Of course if I went 240v and one 5500W... price gets a little closer but still costs more. This is of course not taking into account the longevity and the hot spot/burning issues.

Keep 'em coming though because I only think like me and I'd like everyone else's thoughts before i build this thing and kick myself down the road. "Buy once...cry once".