still size versus mash amount - subtitle--H E L P !

[Cornbread]

If you had 2 - 100 gallon stills and put 100 gallons in one and 25 gallons in the other, would their output rate be the same?
I bought a baby 11 L still - put slightly less than a gallon of mash in it. 4 hours later, I have 1 cup. So is it the size of still or the amount of contents that make better output. I read on the forum about someone made a 7.5 gallon run a 7.5 gallon still in 4 hours. I am still collecting heads 4 hours later...(nearly there). Maybe I should lie on floor, under the lyne arm, and just open my mouth?

update: vapor temperature has climbed to 203 degrees F. as I started collecting the "middle" Looks like I got days to go...LOL

[seeken]

The difference between a full still and a quarter full still is the time it would take to heat up.

When i first got my still i distilled a 2L mash as a proof of concept (and as a saftey test run), it took a little more than an hour from putting it on the heat to getting the last drop. But the full 5 gallons took 2-3 hours just to get to the right boiling point. Because if this, when i put my still on i crank the heat up untill the mash inside gets close to the right temp and then i turn the heat down to the proper level.

Assuming you are at the right temp (78 C) how full the still is wont change the rate of flow. More heat will make it flow faster, but have more water. Less heat will make the flow slower but have less water. Take a look at what people say about stipping runs, you may want to try that.

Distilling is a LONG process best started in the morning. I have a TV in the same room as my still so that i can keep a close eye on it without having to stare at a wall for hours on end.

[Cornbread]

Thanks. BUT I am at 95 Centigrade & "drips" have nearly stopped. Will try 96.1 C --which I thought should be the maximum.

Would a very low starting alcohol content cause this problem?.........too little to measure yet.

[rad14701]

Is the wash actually boiling...??? With a pot still you should stop collecting at or before 206F/96.5C... With a column still you would stop somewhere between 176F-180F/80C-82C... Your runs sound excessively slow... Can you supply accurate boiler dimensions and heat input...???

The only advantage of a partially filled boiler is that the same HETP theory extends down to the surface of the wash in the boiler... Therefore, if your columns HETP value is 4 inches and you have 8 inches of vapor sitting above the surface of the wash you effectively have two additional theoretical plates... And perhaps more due to the greater density volume of the boiler as compared to the column... In short, there will be more vapor in the boiler which, to a point, could potentially help maintain a more stable run at a more exacting purity... But that's just me and my weird brain thinking again - or that other one over there in the gray recesses... What...??? Umm... Did I say that...???

[Cornbread]

Is the wash actually boiling...??? With a pot still you should stop collecting at or before 206F/96.5C... With a column still you would stop somewhere between 176F-180F/80C-82C... Your runs sound excessively slow... Can you supply accurate boiler dimensions and heat input...???

The only advantage of a partially filled boiler is that the same HETP theory extends down to the surface of the wash in the boiler... Therefore, if your columns HETP value is 4 inches and you have 8 inches of vapor sitting above the surface of the wash you effectively have two additional theoretical plates... And perhaps more due to the greater density volume of the boiler as compared to the column... In short, there will be more vapor in the boiler which, to a point, could potentially help maintain a more stable run at a more exacting purity... But that's just me and my weird brain thinking again - or that other one over there in the gray recesses... What...??? Umm... Did I say that...???

9 inch diameter, 11 inch high stainless Pan with 7 1/2 inch high copper domed lid on top. Lyne arm is 45 degress downward. Using a 1000 watt electric eye that is turned about 7/8's of the way up.

[rad14701]

Run it as hard as you can without pushing vapor out your condenser... You need to do multiple strip runs of the wash until done and have a substantial amount of low wines... Then you should re-distill the low wines, a bit slower, as a spirit run where you will make proper cuts, let them air, and blend you final spirits, saving what's left for use in the future...

You've got 1000W of power there... Use it at your will, captain...

Edit: That's 1000W, not 100W...

[Cornbread]

Run it as hard as you can without pushing vapor out your condenser... You need to do multiple strip runs of the wash until done and have a substantial amount of low wines... Then you should re-distill the low wines, a bit slower, as a spirit run where you will make proper cuts, let them air, and blend you final spirits, saving what's left for use in the future...

You've got 100W of power there... Use it at your will, captain...

Aye Scotty ( & thanks a million) I've collected 15 1/2 ounces out of ~96 ounces. (including heads & foreshots & tails?) My abv is 23

[Cornbread]

I checked my thermometer for accuracy. I turned her up Scotty........at 210F she is spittin' it out. That's all the power I have. (swapping for 1500 watt tomorrow). Got a little over another cup..which makes it right. WOW!!!!! YOU DA MAN ! Thanks Rad..So a multiple run........Take what I got distilled (except foreshot) & do it again? including heads The dummy Cornbread

(I know...read the forum)

[LWTCS]

Till I put the thumper in action, I really prefered a double run.

Good and clean. And nice and proofy.

With the potstill,, the flavor was there with no problem on the second run.

I would save a quantity of nicely cleared wash to add to the second run to ensure a good flavor carry over.

Now I charge the thumper with a bit-o-wash and heads-n tails.

Tater likes a single run. I recon he pushes really softly.