Epoxy

[Abstract]

Ok, I know plastics and epoxys are sketchy for use with distilling, but It would be a very easy solution for me to use epoxy
I'm building a simple pot still with a ss stockpot, I've tried soldering to it but it's near impossible being stainless...
Is there any epoxy or other method of fusing the copper with the lid?

I have an epoxy putty that says it's nontoxic after it dries, but I'm still uncertain about using it..

Thanks for any imput!

[rad14701]

Do not use epoxy... It's just not safe with high temperature high strength alcohol vapor...

There are plenty of safer solutions to your problem...

Fittings...
Soldering copper to stainless... Yes, it can be done as discussed in these forums...
Stainless steel screws and a paper or solid music cork gasket (not glued composition)...

We've all managed without potentially hazardous epoxy so I'm sure you'll also be able to find a solution...

Good luck...

[ScottishBoy]

If you are looking for an easy way to just get a copper tube in the lid you can use compression fittings. The trick is to make sure that the hole you drill is too small for the fittings center ridge to go into. The you can tighten a nut from the other side and it will be very tight, but might need a little dough to seal it. If you want to, you can tin the pieces and then lay a small bead of solder on it after you tighten it. It WONT be airtight, but it will be a pretty good seal. You can also use washers and use a natural cork or cardboard washer to seal it. I ended up soldering mine to the lid and later soldered my base to a SS assembly. It CAN be done, but you have to be patient and work with the metal. I used regular flux to tin my copper piece and then used a Zinc Chloride flux to treat the SS. Then I dropped the tinned piece on top of the SS part and heated the solder. Once it flowed, it stayed very nicely.

Lots a of ways to do it. Your best bet is to read the forums and look for examples.

SB

EDIT: Ever notice how you dont notice a spelling mistake until AFTER you hit the submit button?

[Cartierusm]

Do not use anything of the sort, no epoxy. If you KNOW how to solder then it's easy as pie. If you don't know how to solder then learn. Here is something I wrote on another forum.

"...As far as fluxes that is linked with the kind of soldering or brazing you're
doing. For copper to copper use silver solder or regular lead free solder,
regular flux used for drinking water plumbing is all that's needed, the water
soluble non-toxic stuff.

For Copper to stainless you must use an acid based flux. It comes in liquid or
paste. I use the liquid. It is nasty stuff so be sure to use a respirator ---
YOU MUST USE A RESPIRATOR AND DO IT OUTSIDE AS THE FUMES COMING OFF WHEN YOU
HEAT IT UP ARE DANGEROUS!!!! --- The flux I use if from Harris Welding and it's
called Stay-Clean. Be sure to buy an auxiliary container as no matter how new it
is, it leaks. Don't take it out of the container but use it to store it so if it
does leak it won't ruin anything. As always store this in a garage and away from
children.

For stainless to stainless you can use solder with the stayclean flux or silver
braze it with stay silv braze and flux, both of which must be cadium free.
Depending on what you are joining and how much stress it will take silver solder
is amazingly strong."

[Nightforce]

Here, here, another +1 on don't use epoxy in your build!

I made an offset dual valve first and used epoxy to fasten some of the parts. I'm not sure if it was my in-experience or the epoxy, but I couldn't seem to get a decent, not oddly tainted (now that I know) alcohol until I went with an all copper soldered still. And YES even JB Weld, which reports non-toxic, food safe qualities, 600°F heat resistance and something like 4,000 psi yield strength, FAILS after a few runs of 4-6 hours at 78°C of 90%+ ethanol. It would get soft and the joint would crack and leak.

Please take it from someone who's ignored the warning and found out for themselves to NOT to do it.

Just my 2¢.....