desiding between 2 still designs: newb here! need opinions.

[beanpole209]

Basically I am new to distilling, and I am trying to get started. I will try to be as short as possible. I am looking at two still designs.

The deciding factors for me are as follows: Time for build/ finding parts as I am always short on time, alcohol content in finished product (first run %), enough copper to remove any sulfur tastes or other wise, safety (as far as temp control is concerned), simplicity for storage purposes. Probably not in that order.

What I wont, or my goal atleast starting out is to have a pot still (as in stock pot) to use on an electric stove top. One that can make a respectable single run for various alcohols such as whiskey's, scotch, brandy, and at first probably some sugar runs for practice. I'm looking for one that is around 3 us gallons, and has a thermometer bung.

Other questions are: first what would be the recommended design, the guesstimated alcohol % output of both, and if the second design is recommended where is a good source of copper or brass supplies online?

first design I'm looking at is a prebuilt unit off ebay by norcalshine. It has a small tower, with a water jacketed condenser that is short. The things I like about it are: its prebuilt (addresses the time factor for building one, and finding parts), its very simple and would store nicely, it is the exact size i'm looking for, the user has great reviews. The concerns: that it wouldn't produce a high enough alcohol % to be worth it, that it wouldn't have enough copper contact with the liquid to remove any sulfurous flavors. The address to the still I'm talking about: http://cgi.ebay.com/3-Gallon-Copper-Moo ... 3efdfd0138

The second design I'm considering is one Ive concocted from pictures, and ideas from what I have read. It would include of course the 3 gallon pot. It would have a tower approximately 12inches high, a T fitting on the end, The thermometer bung and thermometer going straight down on the top of the T fitting, the output being to the side going to a flair fitting, from there I would connect the copper tubing heading into a plastic vessel (such as a mash bucket) were I would put the coil and could fill with ice water, and last but not least I would have the end of the coil exit the bottom side of the bucket and be sealed. The things I like about it are: I would think it would produce a higher alcohol content than the other design, would have plenty of copper contact with the liquid. The concerns: It would take to much time to locate parts, takes up more space, be more trouble than its worth.

Thank you for any help, any input is much appreciated.

[Dnderhead]

to me it looks like a pot still? if you don't have time to build that then you wont have time to run it either.
you could throw that together in less than 1 hour but running one can take hours of constant attention.

[ScottishBoy]

Basically I am new to distilling, and I am trying to get started. I will try to be as short as possible. I am looking at two still designs.

The deciding factors for me are as follows: Time for build/ finding parts as I am always short on time, alcohol content in finished product (first run %), enough copper to remove any sulfur tastes or other wise, safety (as far as temp control is concerned), simplicity for storage purposes. Probably not in that order.

If you are short on time, then this may not be the hobby for you. Its really all about patience and slow careful movement. Not to say that you cant be doing other things and be puttering around, but you cant be saying "Wow. Have to bring the kids to Tae Kwan Do in 2 hours. I will just whip up a batch."
Doesnt work that way.
I would also think twice about buying a still from a commercial vendor. Someday the law might want a list of who bought stills from them and show up on your doorstep.
You can build a better pot than that one for 3/4 the price.

SB

[beanpole209]

Hey guys, i'm sorry for for not being more specific on the time factor in which I mentioned. Safety is my number one concern. I have no intentions of rushing any of the processes involved in building my still/ or using it. I do have time, but I just wont to make make sure I use it wisely. I try to enjoy my hobbies to the fullest, and wasting time on frivolous stuff just cuts into time that could be spent elsewhere. BTW I don't have children or dependents so that doesnt add into the equation, lol.

In short, I don't wont to waste, or money my time on something that wont preform reasonably. I'm not familiar with brass, or copper piping/ tubing sizes, and It would appear that at least In my area there isn't good suppliers except maybe a large home improvement store. I will probably be confined to ordering online. I would enjoy building one, I just need to pick up more knowledge about pipe sizes. Do any of you have any good sources of information on pipe and fitting sizes? and any good pipe supply web sites?

Back to the stock pot still designs. So how does the water jacketed condenser stack up to a coiled condenser in alcohol content and taste? I guess I wasn't strictly talking about ordering that first unit I was talking about, but am more interested in the design for its simplicity. Do yall think the second design I described would be much better? I can upload a mock up image of what I am talking about if it would help. Do yall have a better design in mind that would be easier to build than the ones mentioned? The one factor I would like to keep regardless is I would like to have a thermometer bung to monitor temps through the distilling process.

Thank yall for the help, and concerns.

[vicrider]

One of the best places to order copper tubing and fittings is http://www.mcmaster.com/#" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow from Atlanta. They are a little high but the shipping is cheap and the turn around time is awesome. And they have everything you can imagine.

As for the flea-bay still, the picture isn't that great but it looks like they smeared some kind of sealant on the lid connection, and it looks like a rubber plug in the thermometer port, both of which are no no's. The pot itself looks pretty cheezy. IMO you could do lots better and be more satisfied building your own.

As for the % of alcohol each still will produce, they are both pot stills but will drive a little differently from each other. Having said that,
the percent of alcohol that comes out is directly related to how much alcohol is in the wash you put in it, and how fast/hard you drive it. So, no one can really answer that question for you.

Here is the way I see it. You can go one of two ways; You can slow down a little, read this site a lot more and learn to do something safely you will enjoy and share, or, you will rush in to make some fast hooch and not be satisfied with what you get, and ultimately quit, or upgrade to what you really should have started with, having wasted lots of time and money. I hope you will go with the fist option.

Good luck, V

[beanpole209]

One of the best places to order copper tubing and fittings is http://www.mcmaster.com/#" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow from Atlanta. They are a little high but the shipping is cheap and the turn around time is awesome. And they have everything you can imagine.

As for the flea-bay still, the picture isn't that great but it looks like they smeared some kind of sealant on the lid connection, and it looks like a rubber plug in the thermometer port, both of which are no no's. The pot itself looks pretty cheezy. IMO you could do lots better and be more satisfied building your own.

As for the % of alcohol each still will produce, they are both pot stills but will drive a little differently from each other. Having said that,
the percent of alcohol that comes out is directly related to how much alcohol is in the wash you put in it, and how fast/hard you drive it. So, no one can really answer that question for you.

Here is the way I see it. You can go one of two ways; You can slow down a little, read this site a lot more and learn to do something safely you will enjoy and share, or, you will rush in to make some fast hooch and not be satisfied with what you get, and ultimately quit, or upgrade to what you really should have started with, having wasted lots of time and money. I hope you will go with the fist option.

Good luck, V

I appreciate the help! and the recommendation for the web site.

I know it seems like i'm going fast down a slippery slope, but keep in mind something. I have been on here reading for about a year. I have also read a couple of books, and tons of online material. I know I am a new character in town and seem like i'm speeding though all the steps, but it is just pent up questions I haven't had an opportunity to ask until now. Probably my main problem, and all the silly question I have are because of all the misinformation that is out there.

Another thing I would say is this isn't something I'm probably going to build overnight or something, I understand that it takes patients and knowledge.

[beanpole209]

I really appreciate the site recommendation. Are those fitting prices pretty typical? I mean wow, I didn't realize how expensive copper and Steele is. I guess Ill probably build something more reasonable than my original plans.

If your not planning to build a reflux still is it important to have a tower in a stock pot still running a copper coil condenser? I was thinking that I could do 2gallon runs in a 3gallon pot and still have some head room.

[rad14701]

Fittings are the real killer in a still build, beanpole209... I've always recommended choosing a design that uses a minimum of fittings for that very reason...

No, you don't need a tower for a pot still if you don't want one... You can simply go from a fitting in the top of the boiler to a worm or a liebig condenser... In fact, there was just a post about the difference in performance with and without a column on a pot still posted HERE yesterday...

[ScottishBoy]

If copper prices are the killer, then fitting prices are the bullet.
Like Rad said, use as few fittings as possible. One of the ways I found to cut costs was to visit a scrapyard. Mine actually seperates copper fittings when they have a chance so they will sometimes have some around. I paid three dollars for a fitting that I had just priced at eleven dollars in a hardware store. If you are really lucky, you might even find the joints or configuration you need already soldered, just needing a little "modification".

Happy Hunting!

[vicrider]

Typically, around here, by the time they get to the scrap yard, fittings are pretty much unusable or they won't let you pick around anyway. You might get lucky and make friends with someone who works in commercial plumbing or heat and air.

[tryingitout]

I found Lowes and Menards had pretty low prices on fittings. If you can, try to use fitting reducers insted of just reducing couplings, at Lowes they are half the cost. Menards and Lowes price match plus 10% so compare prices.
TIO

[beanpole209]

What kind of steel grade should I be looking for in a pot? is cork fine to use to make a thermometer bung?

[olddog]

316 stainless if you can get it.


OD

[beanpole209]

Thanks, I think I may go ahead and be looking up a pot. I have a couple of days of free time.

Does anyone have any experience with brewhause.com? I like their mash buckets. I was thinking of getting some of the surrounding supplies from them as well.

[vicrider]

Brewhause is a reputable supplier. I have ordered from them before and had no problems.

This is a stock pot I ordered a while back. VERY heavy duty.
http://www.amazon.com/Winware-Stainless ... 938&sr=8-2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[beanpole209]

would that fit on the stove top? I would rather have a 20qt pot but wondered if it would fit on stove.

[WalkingWolf]

Being able to "fit" on a stove top is usually limited by what type of venting system you have. In my case the hood above the stove limits my overall height and I am limited to the 16 quart model. I'd recommend this as the smallest if at all possible. The 4 gallon pot will run a 5 gallon wash in two batches. Each run takes me just over an hour.

Good Luck
WW

[vicrider]

Mine does fit on the stovetop but I don't have a range hood. Evan with a hood, if you are building a pot still, it would probably fit if you plan for it.

[WalkingWolf]

Just ordered this one as it should be enough to hold a 5 gallon wash and still allow enough room under the range hood for the unit I currently use.

[DCT]

sounds like for the likker you want to make is alot of flavor, go with a pot still, here is a small one I made for my stove top....tried buying one but got ripped off...build yourself...you will be sooooo happy

[WalkingWolf]

Just 'cause you make the pic small that don't make the still any smaller. You gonna need a doggone flame thrower to power that rig. I'm putting together a waste oil burner that'll put out a enough to power that rig. I'll send it right over when I'm done.

ww

[DCT]

LMAO....fits my 18th century wood fired stove tope with 20 foot ceilings perfectly

[WalkingWolf]

Sorry ... what's LMAO??

Just noticed the Popcorn tribute hanging on the wall. What's the story behind it??

ww

[vicrider]

LMAO = Laughing My Ass Off

That's a good lookin pot BTW. At only 6" deep will there be enough head space?

[WalkingWolf]

LMAO -- thanks Vic

Going from 11 down to 6" in height will allow me to play around a little with how I connect. Have a brother that's a machinist and likes to tinker around with "unique" challenges. I figure I can cut out the center of the lid and make some kind of elevated attachment, say 3-4 inches, to keep the boil away from the still.

ww

[DCT]

good ole popcorn, a hillbilly folk artist made that for me in NC....it is way cool & gives me insperation

[beanpole209]

haha lol, would there be enough ceiling space for one that big. screw the stove hood!!!

[beanpole209]

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